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Valve Clearance

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AC720Man View Drop Down
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Joined: 10 Oct 2016
Location: Shenandoah, Va
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    Posted: 3 hours 50 minutes ago at 1:03pm
Working on my D14, replacing the valve cover and manifold gaskets. I am going to check the valve clearances and make any adjustments if necessary while I have the valve cover off. Since many components have been removed to prep for paint I can’t start the engine to get it to operational temperature as the manual recommends. Question is, is there a big difference checking them cold versus hot? .012” is what the book calls for. Obviously much easier to check them at this point with all the sheetmetal off, or should I wait until I put it back together to get it up to operational temperature?
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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injpumpEd View Drop Down
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Location: Walnut IL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote injpumpEd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 2 hours 48 minutes ago at 2:05pm
I always set them cold, and add about .002" to the hot spec. I've never felt I could go through them all quick enough hot to be the same temp from start to finish. 
210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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AC720Man View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC720Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 2 hours 17 minutes ago at 2:36pm
I agree with you ED, it wouldn’t be consistent on a hot engine by the time you went through them all. So you would set them at .014”? The book gives a range of .012”-.014”.
Thanks
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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injpumpEd View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote injpumpEd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 2 hours 13 minutes ago at 2:40pm
Probably so. Intake lash usually tightens up over time, exh usually gets loose. 
210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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Les Kerf View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Les Kerf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 1 hour 49 minutes ago at 3:04pm
I would set them cold at 0.014" and forget about it. Back in the day I set the valves on my 1955 Ford with the Y-block 272 hot and running. What a mess!

Son-in-law has a 53 F-350 with a 292 and I just adjusted them to zero clearance cold and then opened them up 1/4 turn. It works out the same Tongue


Edited by Les Kerf - 1 hour 46 minutes ago at 3:07pm
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AC720Man View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC720Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 minutes ago at 4:39pm
The oily mess was my other concern Les. I’ve adjusted cold on my D17D and other tractors I have but just wanted to get some other opinions. I don’t recall adding any though which I understand why it’s suggested. Thanks to both of you.

Edited by AC720Man - 11 minutes ago at 4:42pm
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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