Valve Clearance
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=209675
Printed Date: 01 Mar 2026 at 5:38pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Valve Clearance
Posted By: AC720Man
Subject: Valve Clearance
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2026 at 1:03pm
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Working on my D14, replacing the valve cover and manifold gaskets. I am going to check the valve clearances and make any adjustments if necessary while I have the valve cover off. Since many components have been removed to prep for paint I can’t start the engine to get it to operational temperature as the manual recommends. Question is, is there a big difference checking them cold versus hot? .012” is what the book calls for. Obviously much easier to check them at this point with all the sheetmetal off, or should I wait until I put it back together to get it up to operational temperature? ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Replies:
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2026 at 2:05pm
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I always set them cold, and add about .002" to the hot spec. I've never felt I could go through them all quick enough hot to be the same temp from start to finish. ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2026 at 2:36pm
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I agree with you ED, it wouldn’t be consistent on a hot engine by the time you went through them all. So you would set them at .014”? The book gives a range of .012”-.014”. Thanks ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2026 at 2:40pm
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Probably so. Intake lash usually tightens up over time, exh usually gets loose. ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: Les Kerf
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2026 at 3:04pm
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I would set them cold at 0.014" and forget about it. Back in the day I set the valves on my 1955 Ford with the Y-block 272 hot and running. What a mess! Son-in-law has a 53 F-350 with a 292 and I just adjusted them to zero clearance cold and then opened them up 1/4 turn. It works out the same
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Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2026 at 4:39pm
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The oily mess was my other concern Les. I’ve adjusted cold on my D17D and other tractors I have but just wanted to get some other opinions. I don’t recall adding any though which I understand why it’s suggested. Thanks to both of you. ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: Clayfoot
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2026 at 5:56pm
| Has anyone done a running lash adjustment on these, or do you get too much oil spray? |
Posted By: Jim.ME
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2026 at 8:15pm
| With a .012 to.014 range l would go .002 over mid-range (.013) and set them at .015 cold. |
Posted By: Gary Burnett
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2026 at 9:00pm
| For some reason seems like valves get adjusted to tight on old tractors,with low RPM motors like in old tractors I've found a little loose is better than a little tight. |
Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2026 at 6:03am
| DrAllis suggested .015 cold several years ago. Since then, I have always used this setting. No problems, so far. |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2026 at 6:25am
| .015" COLD for intakes and exhausts on all West Allis built 4 cylinder engines. While some want to re-invent the method, this has worked for 50 years for me and is EASY to remember and do. |
Posted By: IBWD MIke
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2026 at 6:58am
I've seen it done on V-8's with hydraulic lifters. I can not imagine trying to do it on a mechanical lifter cam. I hate 'hot' valve lash specs. Like Ed said, who's fast enough to get them all set before the engine is cool? I recently set lash on my Farmall 450, they have a hot spec. So I added .002" and set them cold. Will check them after first run at head re-torquing time. Also put the head on the 756 gas yesterday, another hot spec. Will do same procedure as the 450.
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Clayfoot wrote:Posted By: IBWD MIke
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2026 at 9:56am
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I had a learning experience this morning I thought I would relate; Reading the manual for the 756 where it talks about valve lash it has a footnote. It says, "engine warm means any temperature above 32 degrees F.". Well, that's a bit different than my thinking of warm! Guess I'll have another look at the 450 manual and see if it's the same. May be tightening them up a couple thousandth's. I have no idea if Allis, or any of the other manufacturers for that matter, used this description.
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Posted By: Les Kerf
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2026 at 11:35am
My late Father-in-law had a handful of old beat up feeler guages from his years as a service station mechanic back in 1950's-60's. As I mentioned above, I have done it on old Fords in my youth but have since been enlightened
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Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2026 at 2:31pm
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When I see the valve lash specs, they usually say cold, as in ambient temp, or hot as in engine up to operating temp. I have never seen one give a spec for actual cold temps. ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: Ed (Ont)
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2026 at 4:14pm
| I have always done valve sets at ambient temperature. Add .002 to the spec as all others have said! |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2026 at 10:19pm
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I set them at .014” today thinking the thread was done, checked at 8 am. Only 3 valves needed a slight adjustment. ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: Ed (Ont)
Date Posted: 13 Jan 2026 at 7:44am
Should be good. 
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Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 13 Jan 2026 at 10:50pm
| Cat book says cold. .015 IN, .030 EX ....and give you plus or minus .003 on either side. Yes, .006 variance saying if in that range it's ok. |
Posted By: IBWD MIke
Date Posted: 14 Jan 2026 at 6:04am
That +/- .003" is interesting. I'm always wondering if I have the correct amount of 'drag' on the feeler gauge. How do you know when you're right? Friend of mine called just after I set the valves on the 756, he was aware of the "warm means any temp. above 32" thing. Also got a comment on You Tube, the gentleman had set a 560 warm, (I think) and checked them cold and could find no difference.
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Posted By: Les Kerf
Date Posted: 14 Jan 2026 at 8:19am
If you put just the end of the feeler gauge in the gap and can push (not pull) it in without the gauge buckling while feeling a slight drag, you are well within reasonable range. Don't sweat the petty stuff, it really isn't that critical. A more likely issue is the fact that there may well be a significant notch worn on the rocker tip, there is no way possible to get accurate readings with a feeler gauge in this situation. The manufacturers specification naturally presupposes the parts to be in good condition. I used a dial indicator to set the valve clearance on the old Model C that I call Mr. Cato's tractor; the rocker tips are heavily worn on that engine. |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 14 Jan 2026 at 8:22am
| I make sure I can still rotate the push rod while the feeler gauge is in place. |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 14 Jan 2026 at 8:34am
| The Detroit book says .015 hot. Says a .016 won't go and a .014 will be loose |
Posted By: IBWD MIke
Date Posted: 15 Jan 2026 at 6:53am
| Great stuff guys! I probably tend to overthink these things a bit. I like the dial indicator idea. Have two tractors with valve covers not bolted on currently, might set one up and check. Be pretty easy to do the 'spin the pushrod' test too. |
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 15 Jan 2026 at 9:37am
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Yea, definitely overthinking it lol! Look in a 5.9L Cummins manual. It says when checking valve lash, if it's between .006" and .015" int, and .015" and .029" exh, adjustment is not needed! these numbers are just examples, but close, showing their wide range of "acceptable". That's the difference between someone who just does the minimum to get by, or those of us who do the best job we possibly can. I set them to the minimum, makes them nice and quiet. ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: RedHeeler79
Date Posted: 15 Jan 2026 at 12:13pm
| Lots of guys prefer to set them on the tight side of spec, especially in high performance or frequent maintenance situations. They feel that they get the maximum lift and duration of the cam lobes that way (thousandths of an inch, of course, but… more air in, more air out = max performance) Remember that everyone has their own “feel” when it comes to using feeler guages. If you’re within spec, hot or cold, it will be just fine. Looser is noiser, as a rule. I always set them cold, at tight side of spec. |