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Brad1 
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 Topic: Series 50? model 53 plow
Posted: Yesterday at 11:36am |
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Hello all, I'm new to plowing, I did send for a user manual from eBay. A model 53 I believe is what I have, some advice about the traction control and not flipping the plow over and onto myself would be appreciated. D15, the right-hand speed control lever is not working at this time but will be splitting it open for repair this winter. I do brush hog with it and all the snap coupling hardware is in place as far as I can tell. Searching the net for a vid showing a snap coup 3 bottom install on a D15 and what is needed and what to look/watch out for is nonexistent. Maybe someone could point me in the right direction. Trying to navigate the unofficial Allis page is difficult for me, the FAQ page isnt any help either.
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DanielW
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Joined: 19 Sep 2022
Location: Ontario
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Posted: Yesterday at 12:51pm |
Not sure I'm fully understanding all your questions, but here are my thoughts for what they count:
i) "Not flipping the plow onto yourself" - not sure what you mean here. Are you worried the traction booster operation might somehow cause grief and rolling the tractor? You don't have to worry about that. At least, not as it relates to your plow/tractor setup. On our really steep side hills, plowing is one of our most dangerous tasks, because driving with the downhill wheel in the dead furrow means you're that much closer to tipping. I've gone up on two wheels in the air a few times, but haven't tipped/rolled yet. But this is nothing to do with the tractor/plow and 99% of people would never have this problem. It's just the way our land is.
ii) RH lever is the traction booster lever. When you say, 'splitting it open", do you mean splitting the tractor? Or just disassembling the valve(s)? You certainly don't have to split the tractor (or, at least, not unless something pretty drastic is wrong). It's likely just a stuck traction booster spool/cam. Some penetrating oil, tapping the spool when removing the rear valve cap, and working it a bit is usually all that's required. Other folks on here willl be able to help you better - it's been years since I've unstuck one. But it certainly wasn't a big deal. This isn't a 'speed control' lever. It's to adjust the amount of the plow weight the rear end of the tractor carries to help it power through tough spots. Your wheel RPM stays the same, it just helps it not slip so much. I could get into a long explanation here, but do some googling of ''Traction Booster' and 'Draft Control', and you'll find a lot of videos explaining it. Nothing to do with speed (or at least, not 'directly' relating to speed). All to do with slip.
iii) Post some pics of the plow and the rear-end/coupler of your tractor and folks here will be able to guide you in the right direction. I'll caution you, however, that a three-furrow plow may be one heck of a load for a D15. That completely depends on soil type and terrain, of course. I've seen several videos of D17's pulling four-bottom plows just dandy. But always in clean stubble on loose, black topsoil. On tough land and/or sod, it's a different story. I have a 180 which, seems to have quite a bit of jam - even for a 65 HP tractor (it doesn't feel anything running a 4X5 round baler up and down our hills). But a 3X16 plow in sod and our soil will bring it to its knees. First gear 90% of the time, and even then you can spend a fair amount of time with your front end in the air, just trying to plow 6" deep. You may therefore find you want to drop a bottom from your three-furrow for your D15 to be comfortable. Not worth worrying about immediately, but keep it in mind as something you may have to do.
Edited by DanielW - 22 hours 57 minutes ago at 1:26pm
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Brad1
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Posted: 22 hours 12 minutes ago at 2:11pm |
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Hey, thank you for your quick response and sharing your experience. No. I've seen pics of a WD? with the plow flipped over and onto the operator, is that a WD issue? can this happen with the snap coupler and D15? No2, the long handle on the right was stuck, then smoke came out from around the lever I was told, so it burned up a brass bushing? I've read a splitting is in order. The two levers to left of the steering wheel do work I was told but will read up on their function as I do have a tractor operator manual. I can raise and lower the lift arms. No.3, yes, dropping one plow may be necessary. There are 2 broken 3/8'' roll pins one for each side of the lift clevis and cannot find any info for its purpose or how they could be damaged. I got the broken pins out, but should I replace them? I've also read online that there is a dedicated forum for just plow talk.
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Brad1
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Posted: 22 hours 8 minutes ago at 2:15pm |
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Also, I would really like to post a few pics but I have no idea how that would work. Maybe I can ask a 10-year-old for help. FAQ page is not clear on pic posting and I'm not familiar with techy jargon.
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Les Kerf
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Location: Idaho
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Posted: 21 hours 11 minutes ago at 3:12pm |
 Brad1 wrote:
... I've seen pics of a WD? with the plow flipped over and onto the operator, is that a WD issue? can this happen with the snap coupler and D15?... |
I too have seen pictures of this, and I recently read a long thread on another forum about this very thing; there was lots of name-calling and insults that didn't accomplish much.
Full disclosure: I have never plowed with a snap coupler tractor, but if I do I will definitely attach a chain to the front of the plow beam and connect it to something solid. I also wear a belt AND suspenders 
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SteveM C/IL
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Location: Shelbyville IL
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Posted: 20 hours 24 minutes ago at 3:59pm |
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Snap latches on lift arms are supposed to release if snap coupler let's go and leave plow setting on the ground. Problem is some still use pin lift arm latches which cannot let go.
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DiyDave
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Posted: 19 hours 56 minutes ago at 4:27pm |
See picture in the thread, below. Those bits near the ground are pin hitch coupling arms. If the SC eye comes out of the bell coupler, the plow can whack you in the back of the head, if the tongue of the plow digs into the ground while disconnected...
As others have said, you want the proper couplers on the lift arms.
Best way to search this site is to enter into google search, unofficial allis _____________
Fill in the blanks with what you want to find out about... In this case, I put pin hitch plow image, and the above thread popped up in google images...  |
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DrAllis
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Posted: 16 hours 44 minutes ago at 7:39pm |
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Snap-coupler bell/hook information after being around them 55+ years. #1. A weak or broken hook spring is a bad thing. That hook spring has to be able to keep the hook 100% fully latched. #2. On any D-17, the release levers pivots can and does get rusty. When this happens, the release lever cannot fully move forward to the 100& latched position, and that can cause a hook release. I experienced this on my Dad's series 4 when I was 16 or 17. I got stopped in time before any damage was done. All because the release lever didn't snap back fully forward. Keep them oiled up !! #3. The same goes for a WD/WD45 if the chain is too short. #4. If you ever really get her stuck deep in the mud, I'd suggest a power washer to get the bell and the hook good and clean so they operate like designed. I know this has happened before. But, it sure wasn't a common occurrence. Nevertheless, if you are concerned get a chain with 3/8" links and connect it to the tongue near the front and somewhere ahead of that to the frame to keep the plows tongue out of the dirt.
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dr p
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Posted: 16 hours 19 minutes ago at 8:04pm |
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I replace the spring in my bell housing yearly. There is a you tube video about snap coupler failures and how you can "wrap" the frame of the tractor with an oh sh!t chain in case the hook faild
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DennisA (IL)
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Posted: 4 hours 35 minutes ago at 7:48am |
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I've had the plow come unhooked one time. The cause was the release chain on the snap-coupler was to short. As the plow pulled the snap-coupler back it tighten the release chain and unhooked the plow.
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Thanks & God Bless
Dennis
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DennisA (IL)
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Posted: 4 hours 23 minutes ago at 8:00am |
This should help identify your plow.
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Thanks & God Bless
Dennis
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Brad1
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Posted: 1 hour 36 minutes ago at 10:47am |
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Yes ty, I did watch this vid and came to the conclusion that I have a model 53
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Brad1
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Posted: 1 hour 34 minutes ago at 10:49am |
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very good and ty
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Brad1
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Posted: 1 hour 32 minutes ago at 10:51am |
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Thanks for time and thread
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Brad1
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Posted: 1 hour 26 minutes ago at 10:57am |
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OK good, see this is the info you and others have posted that cover areas that I would not have thought of. I live near and do work for area farmers as I've been a mechanic for many years. The age of the younger farmers and their high-tech machinery, which is all good nowadays have no experience with vintage farm equipment.
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Brad1
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Posted: 1 hour 25 minutes ago at 10:58am |
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Thank you for the valuable info and what to watch for. Just what I needed.
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Brad1
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Posted: 1 hour 24 minutes ago at 10:59am |
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And thanks, and God bless you too
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