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FarmerJoeVT 
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 Posted: 05 Aug 2015 at 5:38pm |
Heres a better quality video of what we have accomplished thus far. Need guidance on what to do next, to lower the transmission out and where to unbolt it from.
Thanks
Link to video: https://youtu.be/6cDHTBGd0vI
Edited by FarmerJoeVT - 05 Aug 2015 at 5:38pm
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Eric B
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Posted: 05 Aug 2015 at 7:25pm |
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If you look at the back of the bell housing (round circumference with bolts all around) all these bolts have to be removed, don't take out any bolts right a the back of the oil pan. I'm not sure which mounting bars are on the 715, side or bottom? Remove these mounts leaving enough room to lower the trannies. Hopefully you have removed the cooler lines and all linkages related to both trannies. You must make sure to have chains hooked one to each end so it doesn't tip when it's loose. This is very important as someone working underneath could be severely injured. Separate (pull back) the trans at the bell housing making sure the torque converter stays with the transmission but be careful because if the trannies lean forward the converter can fall off. As soon as there is room tie a wire across the front of the trans. to be sure the converter does not fall off unexpectedly. You can remove it nicely when you have room...oil will come out of the centre, lay it down and cover the hole with a clean rag. I'm sure you can see when everything is ready to be lowered to the ground. Once you get that far I would celebrate like maybe go to DQ or...?? LOL
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Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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FarmerJoeVT
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Posted: 05 Aug 2015 at 11:43pm |
Unbolted all the bolts around the bell housing, unmounted the support bracing, detached the selector lever for forward/reverse, and one hose of many. But not sure what is still holding her in place. Attaching pictures to show everyone the progress, hitting the hay after several hours of work.
Video: https://youtu.be/fi1gTYqiFgY
  
Edited by FarmerJoeVT - 06 Aug 2015 at 12:03am
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Eric B
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Posted: 06 Aug 2015 at 1:12am |
You have made a lot of progress!  Be sure to support the back end of the engine (under the bellhousing is good) before everything is separated. From your video it looks like the trannies are ready to drop down at any moment. You may need to use a suitable pry bar at the bellhousing . The next thing is more important at installation than at removal but to install a couple of studs into the bolt holes of the bellhousing (just cut the heads off two bolts and cut screw slots in the ends so you can thread them in and out using a screw driver) one on each side for the purpose of maintaining alignment of the components (as you are separating them or putting them back together). Next time we hear from you you've probably got it dislodged and all the way down.
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Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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DiyDave
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Posted: 06 Aug 2015 at 5:01am |
[TUBE]http://youtu.be/fi1gTYqiFgY[/TUBE]
Looks like its hung at the top of the bell housing. try moving the chain foreward, to get better balance...
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FarmerJoeVT
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Posted: 06 Aug 2015 at 6:47pm |
Need some help trying to figure out how to get the bell housing to break free so we can lower the transmission. Please help. :)
Edited by FarmerJoeVT - 06 Aug 2015 at 6:52pm
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Eric B
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Posted: 06 Aug 2015 at 11:45pm |
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I believe you said earlier that you removed all the bolts holding the converter to the flex plate? If the converter is freed from the flex plate and it is still in line with the shafts coming out of the front of the fwd/rev trans, you can keep it tucked in as close as possible to the tranny to clear space needed to drop it. Judging by the pictures and the video I'm concerned that the converter is partially away from the shafts and with dropping the weight down you could be doing damage to those shafts? If the converter is half way it's blocking the lowering movement. Given that you have enough room at the driveshaft end you should just keep moving it back. You may have enough resistance from the chains that backward movement is difficult. Just so you understand...even if you did not remove any bolts from the converter to the flex plate it would still slip apart from the front of the fwd/rev trans. as the converter simply slips over splined shafts. This does require a number of inches of movement away from the engine bell housing in order to come clear. Some mechanics remove the 4 speed trans. first to give more maneuvering room, others drop them still together.
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Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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Eric B
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Posted: 07 Aug 2015 at 11:48am |
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Brian: I thought back to some of the pictures you posted...in one I could still see the driveshaft. Have you disconnected the driveshaft from the differential as well? Unless you get it totally out of the way there won't be enough room to pull back the trannies. They need to come back in straight alignment with the engine, this is an absolute must upon installation procedure especially.
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Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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FarmerJoeVT
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Posted: 07 Aug 2015 at 1:00pm |
The drive shaft is completely out of the way. We have the section a few inches out of the bell housing, but it is not enough to break her free. So we are trying to figure out a way to pull her even more out toward the back, so we can drop it down. Ill take some more pictures so you can all see what we are dealing with.
Thanks for all the help everyone. :)
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FarmerJoeVT
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Posted: 07 Aug 2015 at 1:05pm |
Heres what I am seeing:
Edited by FarmerJoeVT - 07 Aug 2015 at 1:26pm
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Eric B
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Posted: 07 Aug 2015 at 3:53pm |
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Good pictures!! That makes it much easier to see what's happening. I can see that your flex plate is caught and stuck in the bottom of the bell housing...you're going to need to lift your trannies up enough to be more perfectly in line with the engine before you can make progress, hope you haven't forgot one bolt that is hanging onto the converter?. Be sure to check that nothing from the frame, pipes, hoses, chains etc is interfering anywhere with movement toward the back. The flex plate looks quite warped at this point, if it wasn't previously broken it may have to be replaced before re-assembly. Keep at it!! You'll eventually get there.
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Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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DiyDave
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Posted: 07 Aug 2015 at 5:30pm |
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Yup, I picked up on the flex plate tension, too. Looks like its in a bind, and holding up the works...
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FarmerJoeVT
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Posted: 10 Aug 2015 at 8:45am |
Just a quick update: We had to drive one of my brothers back to Ohio, ahead of him starting his senior year of high school over the weekend. Arrived back early this morning (5:30am), I am now up and going. With nothing planned today other than removing that tranny. :) So I will try and level her out, aligning the bell housing and flex while continuing to move it toward the rear. I will post updates often and with any luck, she will be out and we can begin figuring out what parts need to get ordered. :)
Thanks again for everything you guys.
Very respectfully,
Brian
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FarmerJoeVT
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Posted: 10 Aug 2015 at 10:39am |
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Still cant get it out, going to tractor supply or Lowes to get a come-long. Will update as soon as I can. Its still hung up on the flex plate. :(
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FarmerJoeVT
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Posted: 10 Aug 2015 at 3:07pm |
Tried a come-along and to give it a small tug with the truck and nothing. We verify the there are no remain bolts, that all hoses are not caught, and that the flexplate is not hung up and still no dice. Any is greatly appreciated.
Links to pictures, showing what we are seeing:
Edited by FarmerJoeVT - 10 Aug 2015 at 3:08pm
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FarmerJoeVT
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Posted: 10 Aug 2015 at 8:37pm |
Update: we got it out. :) (Pain in the a$$, but its out)
See pictures: (same as earlier only with photos added to album)
Anyone have any suggestions to what order to break this down to isolate the issue? Or is it best to just order a new pump, flexplate (for sure), and torque convertor?
Thanks
Very respectfully, Brian
Edited by FarmerJoeVT - 10 Aug 2015 at 8:38pm
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Eric B
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Posted: 10 Aug 2015 at 11:03pm |
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Congratulations...you got it!! I think I have said most everything there is to say in terms of help to this point. As for the internal repairs I can only recommend that you find a reputable shop (or mechanic) that know their way around transmissions like this. When you go to put the machine back together you don't want to have any doubts that all components are in working order. Looks like your flex plate was OK until it got warped trying to take the trannies out. Pump drive looks OK. You don't want to settle for guess work when you are going to all this trouble. If anyone on this site with all the know-how leads you through the process that's fine, otherwise you need to consult a place in person to get all the help you need. I know I wouldn't disassemble the forward reverser myself. Even a forklift repair shop may know all you need help with. It's so so important that you deal with people you can trust and are reasonable at the same time.
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Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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FarmerJoeVT
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Posted: 11 Aug 2015 at 2:11pm |
Update: Prices for replacement parts
· Drive Flex Plate – AC Part #1006536 - $73.51
· Torque Convertor – AC Part # 1006192 - $372.39
Still looking for a price for the Transmission Oil Pump – AC Part # 10068854.=
Found a mechanic shop willing to work on it for $75/hr, but wont find the parts. So anything I can do to find everything in advance will help speed up the process. :)
Edited by FarmerJoeVT - 11 Aug 2015 at 2:44pm
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Eric B
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Posted: 11 Aug 2015 at 10:31pm |
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If there is a torque converter shop in your area you can take the converter there to be tested and flushed...there may not be anything wrong with it (may save you some money). Remember I gave you the part number for the pump way back in this thread, that place is good to deal with.
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Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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FarmerJoeVT
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Posted: 11 Aug 2015 at 11:19pm |
Thanks Eric, I found your post from earlier in the thread. :)
| Posted: Jul 08 2015 at 10:35pm | By the way Brian, the link you have for an oil pump looks to be an oil pump for the engine (notice it says engine parts at the top). The reason it fits your machine and several others is the Perkins engine. You (likely) need a pump for the forward reverser transmission. Here is the place and price from last year when I bought one...most likely the same one in your machine. You could always contact them for particulars. As I said previously however, don't order any parts 'til you know what you need.
3615 E. Grand River Rd.
Williamston MI 48895
US
Toll Free 888-672-7876
Local 517-347-7033 & Fax 517-339-1608
| Item | Quantity | Bin Location | Description | Rate | Amount | Tax Rate |
|---|
| A508005 | 1 | | PUMP ASSY. | 186.33 | 186.33 | | | Subtotal | 186.33 | | | Shipping Cost (Standard) | 23.69 | | | Total | $210.02 |
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Edited by FarmerJoeVT - 11 Aug 2015 at 11:21pm
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FarmerJoeVT
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Posted: 21 Sep 2015 at 9:19pm |
Ok everyone, we have a good update. After months of work and $2000 later in parts (flexplate, torque convertor, and shaft seal) and labor, our AC 715b Backhoe Loader moves once more. However, now we are faced with trying to figure out why once she is running she dies out under load. We have replaced all the fuel lines after find a small break in one. We have replaced the fuel pump with a new on (2-7 psi, original one was a universal 2-4.5 psi). I bleed all the the fuel filters to the injectors, with it firing right up toward the end of the injectors. I was able to run her great for 2 hours of working under load. Before chugging out once more, out of no where with half a tank. I bleed the lines again tonight and was able to get her started with some starter fluid, but once I put her under load she chugged out again. Any and all help is great appreciated.
Very respectfully,
Brian
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Eric B
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Posted: 21 Sep 2015 at 9:37pm |
Good to hear that you're up and running again. I have wondered from time to time how you were doing with your repair. Did the trans. rebuilder ever find exactly what was wrong? With your machine dying under load it would have to be some fuel restriction somewhere in the system. Years ago my A-C 816 would just die without good reason. It turned out to be junk in the bottom of the fuel tank...with fuel slushing in every direction in the tank the fuel outlet would plug up. To start with you could blow air back to the tank through the fuel line. To clean the fuel tank completely is a good thing to do every so often. I don't like putting fuel into anything without using a funnel with a fine screen. Thanks for sending your update.
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Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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FarmerJoeVT
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Posted: 22 Sep 2015 at 5:37pm |
Update:
I just got done blowing air through the fuel line back into the fuel tank to try and clear out any gunk from the fuel screen/outlet at the bottom of the tank, as others have suggested. I bleed from the filters all the way to the injectors, got her running, but once I hit the throttle to begin backing up she bogged down again and chugged to a stop. Is there a way for me to test the pump or any other areas I should check?
Thanks Brian
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DiyDave
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Posted: 22 Sep 2015 at 5:49pm |
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You might want to try an inspection camera, with a light , in a nearly empty tank. Might be surprised what you can see with one pointed at the tank bottom. If tank is clean, it might be injection pump lift pump carbon brushes going, if it has a RM pump...
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JC-WI
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Posted: 22 Sep 2015 at 9:44pm |
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Maybe need new filters? Had to put two sets of new filters on a tractor many years ago, because old diesel fuel build up in tank was getting dissolved by new blend if diesel with cleaners... and it plugged both intermediate and final filters both times. Hope it is that simple or something simple in the tank like Dave said.
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He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that."
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FarmerJoeVT
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Posted: 22 Sep 2015 at 9:47pm |
Thanks Brian
Edited by FarmerJoeVT - 22 Sep 2015 at 10:11pm
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Ian Beale
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Posted: 22 Sep 2015 at 11:07pm |
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WRT junk in the tank.
One son is in heavy equipment maintenance.
Apparently it is amazing the havoc that a packet of roll-your-own cigarette papers in the tank will cause
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Eric B
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Posted: 22 Sep 2015 at 11:30pm |
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Be sure to check that the shut off lever on the injection pump moves all the way back to running position. Another thing I have seen on diagrams of injection pumps...there is a final fuel screen inside the pump. This may not be the case with yours and maybe it doesn't have such a screen but the problem sounds totally like there is some restriction in the fuel supply. I wouldn't worry about that rubber gasket if it was my machine.
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Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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DiyDave
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Posted: 23 Sep 2015 at 5:13am |
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Looks like a Roosa master pump. Take off fuel input line to pump, take out the little screen, and look for tiny black specks. If you find them, it's the carbon from the brushes of the lift pump, in the injector pump...
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FarmerJoeVT
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Posted: 23 Sep 2015 at 11:17pm |
Update: SHE'S AAAAAALLLLIVVVVVVEEEEE!!! :)
So this is what we did. First we cleaned all the fuel injectors by placing them in a can of industrial metal cleaner purchased at Autozone tonight. We then attempted to find any screens in the injector pump unsuccessfully. We then cleaned what we could in the injector holes with the same metal cleaner in a aerosol can and a tooth brush to clean up any carbon. Once that was done we reinstalled the fuel injectors and bleed all the lines (fuel filters top bleed screw, injector pump bleed screw, and opened all 4 injectors and tightened each from right to left before it started on its own around #3, before tightening #4 (far left). With her running, we drove her around, placed her under load, picked up and back dragged dirt, and pulled a 60+ foot long without any bogging down or issues at all. We then shut her off to test if she would fire right back up and she does. We tried it several times and she works the better than she ever has. So after nearly a year of troubleshooting and no shortage of help from everyone here. I am happy to report things look good. We will be testing her fully this weekend, with a front yard and driveway to regrade and 20+ - 60'+ logs to pull out of the woods. I will be sure to give you all a update on how it goes.
A special thanks to Eric, Carl, Coke, and anyone else who has helped us every step of the way. I could not have done any of this without your help and patience with this first time tractor owner. Thank you doesn't come close...
Take care and God bless.
Very repsectfully,
Brian
Edited by FarmerJoeVT - 23 Sep 2015 at 11:21pm
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