WD45 - engine coming out

Yes, it is the engine # I was referring to.

So, I would say the the lower bores were re-bored to the later spec. I would say the re-bore left something to be desired, also and that is why the finish doesn't look like I think a factory finish should.

After typing my response last night, I though of a one time, "save this block", one last time fix. You can do it to the pinned cylinders or the whole bottom of the block.

Make some dummy plugs (I would use plastic) that extend at least 3/8" above the bore. Then fill the bottom with epoxy, to a depth of at least 1/4" and while the epoxy is still wet, push your sleeves in (with O-rings old or new) and pushing the plugs out. Let it cure 2 days and the re-assemble the engine. The O-rings will help center the sleeves.

Epoxy isn't cheap but, should save at least $500, over re-sleeving the lower bores.

You might also use some of the stuff that that they fill race blocks with.

 That said, I wouldn't want to be the guy that try's to pull the sleeves, in 20 - 50 years :(


Edited by frnkeore - 25 Jun 2019 at 11:56am

DrAllis wrote: Well at $400 to $500 for a used block, I'll buy one for $200 and bring it to you. That old block is junk and not worth even trying to fix. Maybe used parts are scarce where you live, but not around here.  Those blocks are easily checked with your eyes. Clean it up and if no cracks are visible on the top deck or the bottom, it is probably OK fine.

sploke,

Edited by Sugarmaker - 25 Jun 2019 at 9:32pm

Just for kicks, I dry fit a few of the liners. In the repaired area, I can get a .005" feeler gauge between the liner and the lower bore.


Is the block from a D17 engine the same p/n or a direct replacement for the WD45 block?

17 has larger dia mains so you'd need the crank too(but you need one anyway) but they also have a different crank pulley which don't line up with the WD/WD45 water pump. Can't remember if crank nose is longer too or what. Don't think you can use 45 pulley on 17 crank. Bore size? There's some different between them but some one who knows what will have to speak up.

I read the reviews and it sounds like it might work but, it also sounds like you have to be prepared and work fast.

If it were me, and I couldn't find a replacement block, I would try it and it certainly sounds like it starts out thin enough to pour in from the coolant holes and I think 1 gallon would be plenty. You might want to test and see how much 1 gal water will fill the block, I wouldn't want to fill more than 1" deep but, the head is where most of the cooling is needed.

Of course pressure test it to at least 20 or 30 lb, before assembling it.

I would also, try to talk to someone that has done it before. I think that there are people on here that have preped puller blocks that way, maybe they can give advice.


Edited by frnkeore - 28 Jun 2019 at 11:23am

So after doing some more research, I ended up going the block filler route, really for lack of another viable option.  I used the Moroso brand filler, since it was the only one I could find that didn't come in a huge package, and still only used half of the container to get about a 3/4" fill.  I replaced the liner o-rings, cleaned everything up and installed the liners.  I plugged the block drain with a hose to leave a path to keep the drain petcock functional.  I then filled the block up to the water pump hole with white vinegar and let it soak for 24hrs, which did a pretty good job of cleaning the inside up.  Drained it, rinsed everything very well with fresh water, then filled with rubbing alcohol, drained, and blew out with compressed air until dry inside.  I mixed up half a container of the block filler, about to the consistency of pancake batter, filled into the block, and knocked on it for a while with a deadblow mallet to settle everything nicely.  It should be dry/hard by tonight so the plan is to dry-assemble everything, paint everything up tonight, then do full reassembly this week and hopefully drop the motor back in this weekend.

Keep us posted on how well this works.

sploke,

Well, I had a pretty spectacular "wow, that was dumb" moment last night.  Started final assembly last night and my previous time being in a rush is biting me in the butt.  When I originally broke down the motor I just pulled everything apart and laid it out on the bench and didn't give it too much thought, knowing I'd give everything a good cleaning prior to reassembly.  I pulled the piston rings off pistons 1 and 4 as a representative sample to check out their condition and end gap, and they checked out.  Based on the overall general condition of the sleeves and pistons I didn't think much more about it.  Well, I started cleaning pistons last night and realized #3 had a broken oil ring, and #2 was missing one of the compression rings altogether!  Lesson learned - inspect EVERYTHING upon disassembly if I plan on reusing it.  So, now waiting on parts again.  

Got the engine set back in the tractor last night...no pics because I was so fed up with it by the time I got it in a 10:30 last night I didn't have patience left to deal with it.  Still need up button up the new spark plug wires and the muffler clamps, but hopefully get it all bolted in tonight.

Sorry to here this. Take a look at my video on main seals and pan gaskets might help.

Sploke,

I honestly haven't even gone far enough to check the oil/coolant situation.  Once the tractor started, I adjusted the throttle linkage and timing, idled it up to temp, shut it down to torque the head bolts and adjust valve lash.  Started it again to move it, saw how much it was still leaking, moved it out of the driveway, and started drinking beer. 

Finally got up the motivation to take another look at this thing last night. I took a video because it was very hard to see what is going on just from pictures. I also captured a sample of the oil leaking out and sucked some up into a syringe to get a good look...I'm not pleased. I left it on the bench overnight to see if I get any water separating out from it, but this was fresh new oil and has about 20 min of engine run time on it.




https://www.youtube.com/embed/9Sr7NjhoR9k

Edited by sploke - 06 Aug 2019 at 7:41am