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Wd45 distributor

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steve(oh) View Drop Down
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
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    Posted: 22 May 2022 at 4:54pm
Good evening. Messing around with getting a wd45 running. It will tun ok one min then will not run above idle the next. Carb has been cleaned. New points,coil,condenser. Yes the issue was there before the new parts. Coil has been hot wired. I think my issue is the fact I have enough side to side movent in the distributor shaft to change the point gap .10th… am I headed in The right direction? Also will electronic ignition fix this or do I need a new distributor? Thank you for the help
When your working on something how does it always seem that merphy's law come into affect?
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2022 at 5:06pm
If the point gap varies, that is the same as changing the timing several degrees.. Lets say you static time at TDC and then advance to 20 degrees... If your point is moving and closing up, its the same as running the motor at TDC and trying to increase RPM... Not saying thats your problem, but YES, that is how it works.

The " electronics" takes the place of the POINT.. You still have to have a good ROTOR with good bearing to make it work... You will need a REBUILT distributor .
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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DSeries4 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DSeries4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2022 at 7:51pm
Originally posted by steve(ill) steve(ill) wrote:

If the point gap varies, that is the same as changing the timing several degrees.. Lets say you static time at TDC and then advance to 20 degrees... If your point is moving and closing up, its the same as running the motor at TDC and trying to increase RPM... Not saying thats your problem, but YES, that is how it works.

The " electronics" takes the place of the POINT.. You still have to have a good ROTOR with good bearing to make it work... You will need a REBUILT distributor .


x2.  An electronic ignition will not help at all until after you address the slop in the distributor shaft,
'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14 '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '85 6080
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MACK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2022 at 8:56pm
Your problem sounds more like fuel problem than electrical. Are you sure the venture is in carb,?                       MACK
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2022 at 9:48pm
Mack.. the carburetor was my first thought also.. Still not convinced that it is good..... but he also has a sloppy distributor that needs to be addressed..
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Steve in NJ View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve in NJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2022 at 10:09pm
An easy way to see if the Distributor needs to be rebuilt, is pop the cap off, grab a hold of the rotor and see if you can move the mainshaft side to side. If you have .002-.005" of movement, the mainshaft is in wobble mode and is changing the point dwell. An E.I. is not the answer to a wobbly mainshaft. The Distributor needs to be rebuilt first, then if you want to add an E.I. you can to eliminate the points & condensor.  We offer Distributor rebuilding services if interested if that's your problem, along with adding an E.I.....  HTH.
Steve@B&B
bb-customcircuits.com
39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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DaveKamp View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveKamp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2022 at 10:46pm
You probably have SEVERAL problems, the sloppy distributor upper bushing is ONE... the advance mechanism is probably binding (the pins wear particularly fast if the shaft is wobbling), and you're not getting consistent point closure and dwell. 

There's also a fair possibility that the 'new condenser' you have, is of such poor quality that they capacitance value is way off, or possibly even nonexistent.  Unfortunately, the aftermarket replacements for ignition condensers has basically faded to southeast asia, and they just suck... neither 'quality control', nor 'quality assurance'.  I've had days when THREE brand new ignition kits had bad condensers right-out-of-the-box.

Have Steve give yours a rebuild WITH electronic ignition, and a new coil, and you'll never worry about that again.

While he's doing that, pop the intake/exhaust manifold off, lift the head off, clean out the chambers and ports, unload all the springs, check the heights for any sacked-out coils, then take a wire brush to clean, and a lapstick to re-bed in each valve, flatten out the manifold area, skim the manifold flat, too, put it all back together with new manifold studs, new gaskets, a carb kit, scrub out the fuel tank, new petcock assembly, and clean that fuel line good, new plugs and wires, Weld up and smooth any worn pivots in the governor linkage, you should be good for another 50 years.Wink


Edited by DaveKamp - 22 May 2022 at 10:48pm
Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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B26240 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote B26240 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2022 at 6:17am
A while back I had a tractor start and run great for a couple min. then stumble, would improve with chock.   What I found was the intake to the fuel shut off/sediment bowl was plugged with rust chunks.   Just saying there could be several problems.
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DaveKamp View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveKamp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2022 at 4:34pm
+1 on this... they're seemingly ALWAYS... if not rust, it's a leaf, piece of a twig used to dip-check the fuel level, an acorn or beechnut, a dead junebug...

Or (for situations where someone has installed a rubber fuel line), the inside of the line has been attacked by non-gasoline (ethanol, methanol, etc) based additives, and the inner lining is swelled-shut under circumstances, effectively choking off the fuel flow...

But a sloppy distributor shaft is commonplace on these, and it causes problems which are inconsistent, aggrivating, and totally impossible to resolve through fuel-system repairs.  Until it has dead-solid-stable spark, all the other actions are tail-chasers.  When he's got that snappy-hot spark, he should darned-near be able to disconnect the fuel line from the carb, park it downwind from the hog confinement, and run it on stink.


Edited by DaveKamp - 23 May 2022 at 4:46pm
Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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dr p View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dr p Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2022 at 7:35pm
Dave is right. The wd 45 on my manure spreader had me chasing my tail. Seems like I was constantly changing points. But when I had the distributor rebuild, all of a sudden points seem to last. Steve did a great job for me
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Dennis(IA) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dennis(IA) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2022 at 7:57pm
Get the distributor rebuilt, that will be a good starting point.
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