The " electronics" takes the place of the POINT.. You still have to have a good ROTOR with good bearing to make it work... You will need a REBUILT distributor .

x2.  An electronic ignition will not help at all until after you address the slop in the distributor shaft,

An easy way to see if the Distributor needs to be rebuilt, is pop the cap off, grab a hold of the rotor and see if you can move the mainshaft side to side. If you have .002-.005" of movement, the mainshaft is in wobble mode and is changing the point dwell. An E.I. is not the answer to a wobbly mainshaft. The Distributor needs to be rebuilt first, then if you want to add an E.I. you can to eliminate the points & condensor.  We offer Distributor rebuilding services if interested if that's your problem, along with adding an E.I.....  HTH.

Steve@B&B

bb-customcircuits.com

You probably have SEVERAL problems, the sloppy distributor upper bushing is ONE... the advance mechanism is probably binding (the pins wear particularly fast if the shaft is wobbling), and you're not getting consistent point closure and dwell. 

There's also a fair possibility that the 'new condenser' you have, is of such poor quality that they capacitance value is way off, or possibly even nonexistent.  Unfortunately, the aftermarket replacements for ignition condensers has basically faded to southeast asia, and they just suck... neither 'quality control', nor 'quality assurance'.  I've had days when THREE brand new ignition kits had bad condensers right-out-of-the-box.

Have Steve give yours a rebuild WITH electronic ignition, and a new coil, and you'll never worry about that again.

While he's doing that, pop the intake/exhaust manifold off, lift the head off, clean out the chambers and ports, unload all the springs, check the heights for any sacked-out coils, then take a wire brush to clean, and a lapstick to re-bed in each valve, flatten out the manifold area, skim the manifold flat, too, put it all back together with new manifold studs, new gaskets, a carb kit, scrub out the fuel tank, new petcock assembly, and clean that fuel line good, new plugs and wires, Weld up and smooth any worn pivots in the governor linkage, you should be good for another 50 years.

+1 on this... they're seemingly ALWAYS... if not rust, it's a leaf, piece of a twig used to dip-check the fuel level, an acorn or beechnut, a dead junebug...

Or (for situations where someone has installed a rubber fuel line), the inside of the line has been attacked by non-gasoline (ethanol, methanol, etc) based additives, and the inner lining is swelled-shut under circumstances, effectively choking off the fuel flow...

But a sloppy distributor shaft is commonplace on these, and it causes problems which are inconsistent, aggrivating, and totally impossible to resolve through fuel-system repairs.  Until it has dead-solid-stable spark, all the other actions are tail-chasers.  When he's got that snappy-hot spark, he should darned-near be able to disconnect the fuel line from the carb, park it downwind from the hog confinement, and run it on stink.