Allis CA

the tire size on the CA = 12-24 Firestone Field and road.

We have the left final drive cleaned of grease and grime and set aside:

Have the CA supported on both sides:

ready to pull the right rear. Brake pin design on the top is awesome! Brake shoes on the right side were junk, Brake drum on the right is in pretty good shape, so I do not plan to change that. The seal in the differential has been replaced.;

Regards,

 Chris

 Humm? I should know and don't? Rim size is same as regular CA, So I think that is 24 inch? correct? I will try to check tomorrow. But one of the reasons I bought this was for the pretty good old Firestone rears.

I did get the rear seals from Sandy Lake. Removed and installed the smaller. I did get the larger (outer) seal also, But a little late now that I have the brake drum in place.

Regards,

 Chris

I did the work with the shaft in the tractor housing. I believe to pull the shaft you need to have the drum and key off anyway. I did try to remove the shaft when the drum was off. But I guess I did not have the correct tooling as I could not move it outward with the exterior cap off. The outer bearing exterior cup must have to be pushed out with the bearing? I gave up and went back to cleaning the shaft the best I could to allow the new drum to fit on the shaft. 

I am sure there are folks on here that can tell you what the techniques are to get the shaft out easily?

Looking forward to your project. Let us know how it goes!

Regards,

Chris

This tractor has had the hand clutch removed and the brake drum looks pretty good on the right side. But I think I will try to pull that side apart and put in tha new seal for the rear diferential. 

Regards,

 Chris

 Yes the entire casting cavity was full of mouse nests, and debis! What a mess! I think I would build some type of puller and or get a grinder small enough to get in the brake hole to cut the old drum apart. Cutting down above the keyway is the way to split the cast drum. After I salvaged the key and installed the new drum over the key, I tightened the bolt/ lock nut down. But the new keyway in the drum must be deep because the key kicked up more than I expected when viewed from the end. Humm?? Still looks like the key will work. 

Off topic: Today was all maple related with a annual membership meeting and dinner. Then Cheryl and I strung another 200 taps ( about 1/3 of our total ) this afternoon. 

Hope things are good in Orange land!

Regards,

 Chris

 New seals ordered from Sandy Lake.

Friend John and I worked on the brake drum removal. It is not a easy task. Broke off the exterior portion. Used a dremel and a small wheel to slit the casting about 3/16 deep above the keyway. Then a cold chisel through the drilled hole and it continued and split the casting. A lot of prying and choice words. The key was actually hard to get out too. I wanted to clean up the axle, and finally got it but not easy to get in through the hole in the exterior. Installed the new brake drum, and set screw/ lock nut.

Ruby was checking out the old brake drum:

Regards,

 Chris

 Yes I was thinking the same thing. And that means I need to pull the other side also!:(

But its the right thing to do. This poor old tractor probably needs everything! Just not sure I want to go that deep?

 Thanks for the suggestion on the seal/s. Now would be the time for sure!

Regards,

 Chris

 I am ready for the majic words on getting the old brake drum off the shaft. I do have the lock nut and lock screw out of the old drum. All the exterior of the old drum is broken off down to the hub. Tried some heat and pry bar. Some heat from the blue wrench. Some Kroyl. Some sawsall work some cold chisel blows. A little action with pry and air chisel. Well it hasnt moved yet! But we will get it. Thought about some type of puller working against the end of the shaft??

By the way these top pins are way eaiser than WD style lower brake pins! And Paul was right the brake bands were junk! 

Some shots as I removed the left rear housing:

 I would like to get in and cut the old drum down to the keyway. But I just dont have a tool to do it. So I came here to ask for some advice from those that have removed CA brake drums.

Regards,
 Chris

 Ruby is untrained and spoiled rotten! She is in control most of the time! Perfect!

The steering wheel update looks good! Pumping up the front tires helped bring the steering to a acceptable condition:

I did move the CA around to get the left rear under the jib. Brake work next up.

Regards,

 Chris

I jacked up the tractor, loosened the lower casting fastners enough to get .020 inch shims in four places. tightended the bolts and checked for clearance in the sector gear. There was a little. Now this might have gone away if I had lowered the tractor. 

Shortened the two castelated nuts for the drag link to allow cotter pimns to be inserted.

Then proceeded to make some minor improvements to the steering wheel. Old, cracked, and crusty with black stuff coming off on your hands. You know what I mean. Sanded the hand grip area, filled in the cracks with 2 part  5 minute epoxy, sprayed a coating of flat black just to get started making it look better.

Sanding required to smooth the epoxy a little, then a couple coats of black finish. Should be just a tad better for the old CA, and whoever may be driving. Would love to see my great granddaughter pulling this tractor in another 12 years!

Regards,

 Chris

  I suppose that you got the early manifold because it was cheaper than a NEW one. I'd still be tempted to get a NEW one and sell the early manifold to a B/C restorer looking to appease the correct police. Those early manifolds in perfect condition are worth more than the NEW ones cost.