So I was pulling tractors Saturday at our local fair. Fellow parked next to me ask when I was going to get a small tractor? He was setting on his old CA. He said his was for sale and I should make him a offer. I have seen the tractor many times pulling. It does a pretty good job. We discussed it and came to an agreement. I will go to review and maybe bring it home this week some time.

The owner is getting out of pulling. Guess I am getting into it?

Some details:

- Well it is a CA with a C narrow front end.

- right brake is not functioning

- hand clutch has been removed

- sterring is very loose and probably worn out

- Pretty good set of matched firestones on rear

- front tires are ok

- no charging system in place

- Moves and functions in all gears

- Has some oil leaks at front of engine

- Has custom exhaust pipe for sure!

- Rear rims are farmall lug type not AC. not rusted out.

- Rear rims are in good shape.

- He is pulling it in the 2500 lb class

- Has hydraulic pump removed

- it has a pulling hitch on the drawbar,

- Owner got third in the class that day.

So here is the plan if it comes home:

- Maybe adjust the exhaust pipe to something more conventional.

- Pull it in some light classes

- Have some fun

- let the grandson and great grandsons try it out.

- get a charging system functioning, probably 12 volt with a Denso alternator.

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Will try to keep you upto date on this new addition.

Regards,

Chris 

Is that a part of a wheel weight on the rear wheel?

I am new to the CA versions for sure.

Paul, is the engine the same in a C and a CA. Owner said it was just the front end being changed from a wide front CA to the narrow front C?

Also looks like steering arm and pitman have seen way better days! But i guess I have seen worse.

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Yes the custom exhaust has a bad case of the droops:)! Very functional just not very apealing to me.

Wheels I believe he said were shot and replaced with the IH lug style. I dont have much of a problem with those. Might work just dandy, and the rim portion has been widened a little so that fits in with the rest of our "Fat Bottom Girls"!

I will need to do some research on the brakes R&R. 

Probably Sandy Lake will be able to add another addition to a building!:)

BTW I broke the brake rod on our grandson's WD while pulling. Another adventure in Allis in Wonderland for sure!

Also I dont have a clue on the status of this engine? Its for sure got a good protective coating on the exterior. It does run, More to come. 

Thanks for the comments and support! I will need it!

 Regards,

Chris

Sugermaker, that CA took 3rd that day... with a little AC know how, you and your young-uns can have a good time for years to come. 

   The CA is one of my favorites.

Best of luck

Leon B MO

 Thanks. Will make a run at this tommorow if the weather is right. My friend Jim is dealing on a tractor for pulling also. Must be something in the water!?

Regards,

 Chris

 The CA is home and have done a few mods on a couple things. You know the new toy syndrome!:)

Loaded up with Jack the previous owner:

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In the shop for review. Oli pressure is good. oil looks clean, leaks just like all ther othe Allis tractors too!:

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He told me it steers way farther one way that the other. Humm. The drag link had been cut and shortened. I found that to be more centered it needed to be extended about 4 inches. 

So and little cutting and welding and that was corrected. The ball joints are not good. The steering is VERY hard to turn while not moving. I did get another steering box, with it but not sure what the real problem is yet. Looking at C and CA pictures This is messed up pretty good!:)

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She is a little chub compared to her big sisters the WD's!

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Exhaust was the first thing to come off. This may not be final:

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Tries are cracked from age, but in fair shape, Jack had widened the rims which are IH style. He found two more weights which are portions of IH weights about 40 lb each.

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Looking forward to see how it does at the final pull of the season, coming up OCT 8:

Regards,

 Chris

What is this?

What is this?

.. Keeps the points from burning when converted to 12 volts.

 Have fun Chris, those are snappy little engines.

 Consider adding a charging unit. Just having a battery for starting lowers available voltage for ignition.

So I see the short vs long front arm on the lower front. Mine looks like it is welded on to the shaft?? Doesnt look easy to change?? But I probably don't know what I am looking at yet either?:)

I dont know enough about these yet to know the difference in a C vs a CA sterring box? I did get an additional steering box and will have to take a picture of that too. 

Short term goal is to pull the Johnny Cash tractor at the local pull Oct 8. Well Maybe the grandson will pull it?

Currently I have a brake drum replacement project on our Grandsons WD. What a joy that is!:) I messed up the heating process on the new brake drum and will have to get another!

It cooled and got stuck about 3/4 of the way on to the shaft! I hate when that happens.

Hope things are good in orange land!

Regards,

 Chris

 My first pull with the CA was this past Saturday.  Only three pullers in the 2500 lb class. All three of us pulled 247 feet. I got second place missing first by about a inch or so. I have some work to do on the brakes for next year. It might have helped me keep out of a previous hole in the track? 

This was the only tractor that caught fire at the pull. Just minor around the exhasut manifold as I exited the track. Probably oil leak and acumulated dirt. Note to self might be good to have fire extingushers on all the tractors! :)

Getting to the rainy pull day:

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My Allis team at the pull. CA, WZ and WD45:

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I did get first in the 4000lb class with the WD45. About 10 tractors in that class. Track was just a little hard and I chjose to pull in second gear half throttle to stay under the 3.5 MPH speed limit. Had enough power left at the end to win by about 25 feet. Actually stalled out in the end.

Ruby and I resting (almost):

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Oh I may have found a CA narrow front close by?? Will see if that happens. Very worn in the front end of this Johnny Cash tractor!

Regards,

 Chris

 Grandson Nic stopped in last night and was very pleased with the CA! Took it for a drive around the yard. The smile says it all!

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I did pressure wash a lot of the grease and grime off the engine and the green moss off sheetmetal too. 

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Weather is much cooler!

Regards,

 Chris

 Several general questions on the CA.

I would like, at sometime before next seson, to work on the brakes. I will have to do some research as to what to look for. Maybe they just need adjusted?? Any tips are welcome as the CA is a new Allis critter for me and I know the experts are on here.

Another thing is the engine question. This will probably never happen but I thought I had heard that larger tractor engines will bolt ut to a CA? Like D14 or D15? 

Not really looking to go crazy here but is something to think about. I know Paul has forgot way more than I will ever know about these tractors.

Right now my house restoration project has me in a headlock and I still have the brakes to complete on Nic's WD., And a engine to complete for the 32 Ford AAB truck.

Regards,

 Chris

 Any engine from a D10/12/14/15 will go in with little difficulty. It would depend on how cheap you can find one, as opposed to doing something with the current engine. Something close to 30 HP can be had from the CE block with a few custom parts. 60+ can be had if you can afford it. 

Much to learn on the little Allis tractor. Thanks for your comments! I think of you when I have pulled the WD45 in second gear at several events and won the class. In those cases the track was hard to very hard, and the power to weight and balance was just about right. Most of these pulls the speed is limited to 3.5 MPH. So about half throttle is all thats needed till about 3/4 of the way down the track. 

Looking forward to getting into the CA tractor this winter. 

Regards,

 Chris

If it turns sharper one way than the other you might be able to take the arm off of the steering box and move it one spline and make it center better. There's a screw on the starter side behind the starter that you can adjust to help with the slop .

 Thanks, I probably wont find a series II D15 engine, but the concept is appropriate for a old pulling tractor. The steering modification I did to lenghten the drag link ballance the turing ability. But the tractor steers very hard!!. Something is not right on the box or the front end. And it has WAY too much slop in the "C" front end! Serious death wobble. 

Thanks for the hint on tightening up the box. 

I dont think you can move the arm on the box one click it has offset spline features that only allow it to go on one position.

Regards,

 Chris

Chris,

Great lookin' CA!  With some work it'll work out great for ya. One of the first things you want to do when updating the Ignition system is to take that ballast resistor and throw it in the garbage. Install a internal resisted coil. Those resistors didn't work under the hood of a 60's Automobile, never mind out in the elements on a Tractor! If you're using that for pulling, toss an E.I. in the Distributor with a high output internal resisted Coil on the ole' girl.  That'll wake her up a little bit. And install a charging system....  Good Luck with your new toy!

Steve@B&B

Thanks Yes many potential upgrades could be done to improve this old tractor. One pull and had fun!

Hope to get time this winter to work on it too.

Thanks guys for checking in on me. Hope things are good in Orange land!

 Regards,

 Chris

I did have it jacked up. Most of the slop seems to be in front spindle area. I will need to do some reasearch on that area for potential improvement. Just havent had time to work on any tractors with my house siding project and winter coming on fast!:)

 Regards,

 Chris

 Ok here is what I think I have found and or have for the CA.

A friend has a CA front sterring box with the long arm, He does not have the lower spindle. Will my lower "C" spindel fit and function with a CA front casting/ Sterring box?

Also may have locared a D15 engine (which has had some recent work on it). It is attaqched to a rough tractor that I dont really want or need. The guy wants a pretty good buck for the engine and hulk. if the engine is good probably a lot less that a complete rebuild? He did a hone job and new rings and bearings. Engine had been stuck.

So will a D15 block bolt up direct to the CA torque tube, or are there mods that need to happen. What would be the increased HP from the CA to the D15? Is is worth the effort? 

More power doesnt mean hyou can get it to the ground. And I rarely see a stock Allis run out of power when in a low gear antique pull.

Thanks in advance for the support!

 Regards,

 Chris

I am pretty certain that a 160 CI engine from a D15 II will pretty much a drop in to a CA.  I have never done it, but read it here some years ago and made a mental note of it.  The 160 engine dynos at 46 hp on the PTO in the D15 tractor, so you are getting almost 20 more ponies.   If I wanted more power from my CA, I would definitely do it.  I do not pull with my CA, so I am content with it's modest 26/27 hp!

Well I picked up the CA parts (well I think they are CA items?) today from a friend.

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These may help improve the steering someday?

Our pup Ruby Loved the snow:

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I did get some time to tear into the CA. Hood off removed tank, drained the rad for removal and jacked up the tractor for work on the front end. The plan is to change the front casting to the long arm version. Also have new sterring box if this one can't be improved.

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I did find that the exhaust manifold is broken on both ends! I think you guys warned me about this!

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Plan to put on a Denso alternator:

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Wheel bearings seem good, Tires and wheels just OK. I have seen worse.

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Regards,

 Chris

I will try to use the parts I have, Which I think are C  front parts, since they don't have the knobs sticking out the front.

 Thanks! Thats what everything was pointing to. Now to just get back at it! One of those winter projects, on the back burner. 

Thanks for checking in on me and the Johnny Cash tractor!

Happy New Year!

RFegards,

 Chris

This C and CA front stuff gives me a headache and I'm not even dealing with it! But that double A or double B Truck in the back round sure caught my eye! Can't see the grille shell well in the pics. Short wheel base, dual rear wheels and short dove tail running board. That's eye candy to me as well Chris!   LOL!  I had a 30 AA Truck years back. Very cool!

Steve@B&B

 Now you have me thinking on the CA vs C steering box?? I dont know the exact differences, but will be evaluating that more in the future.

Yes as EXSW mentions sugaring season will be ramping up in about a month so I really need to get this CA back on its feet!

The truck, well you guys know I like to post pictures and lots of words and off topic stories. If you want all the gory details and more about the truck check out this thread on the Ford Barn which I started a year and half ago! 

A detail for Any old early big Ford trucks mine is a AAB VIN number, which means it was a fairly early build in 1932. I am warning you before you go there, its not for the weak of heart!:) These Ford guys are as bad/good as us Allis Folks!

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Regards,

 Chris

 I might get a new manifold, that is if I can find one. This one is working but sure doesnt look very secure.

 Regards,

 Chris

Let me know I This one is sketcy at best. And probably leaking some too, since it set the tractor on fire in that area. Maight have been oil and grease.

Worked a little more on the front end on the CA. Its just screaming to be cleaned up and painted!

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Drag link is almost ready. Need a couple 9/16-18 castleated nuts. It is way better than the old one. Threads are boogered a little on one end.

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I installed the new Ross box and everything seems to fit OK. It is also a lot better than the one with the yellow arm:

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Pulled rad and the rad support, then dropped the front vertical spindle:

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It was jammed with old dried grease. Removed the gear and popped out the shaft:

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The lower bearing was intact (for a while) but had some slop and was pretty dry. Not helping the steering since the tractor rests on this bearing. It then decided to come apart. I believe I should try to get a new bearing! This may be a load type bearing. I have not started any research for it. Outher race has a Timken number on it. 

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Still debating this front casting. I could take the short arm out and replace with the long  arm out of the other casting. This would allow me to keep the casting in place with the ears and the holes. These might be usefull at some point to secure weights?? Are the ears for the Allis CA side weights?? Or I could use them as attackment points to chain the front down to the trailer??

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Happy New year!

Regards,

 Chris

 Thanks for the info on the weights. I thought the owner had a set but never found them.

I think I am going to change out the front casting with the one with no ears, but has the long steering arm. 

Regards,

 Chris

 Yes I know they are light in the front. I seen a set on E-Bay for $500. A little too rich for me!

 I will try to check with the owner again.

Regards,

 Chris

 A few gory details. I rethreaded the damaged rod ends and found some 9/16-18 nuts at the hardware. These are going to be fine and the drag link is way better than what was on the CA:

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I did call the original owner and he said he would look for the side weights and the other split rear wheel weights (not Allis, IH version).

I am prototyping the mounting of the Denso one wire alternator. Using the front portion of the generator mount, and fabricating a new upper support/ adjustment bracket. The set up looks to be stiff enough, secure, and pretty good alignment with the engine pulleys:

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 Looking good and sounds like a plan

 The wide front in NJ is from a CA I believe, with the two casting knobs sticking out at the bottom. No I am going to stick with a narrow front end type tractor style. They tuck in nicely when loading two units on the trailer to go pulling.

 Regards,

 Chris

one of the BIG problems is keeping the fan belt away from the lower radiator hose tube.. You seem to have the RIGHT belt to get that done... NICE.

The serial number for the CA:

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I will replace the non functioning components in the dash box. Mock up here:

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Anyone remember Dave Stangle or the Thomas brothers? 

I've seen many pretty paint jobs that fell flat when hooked to a sled. Yea the big time pullers with plenty of cash to piss away have nice shiny tractors, although paint and chrome can't get you any further down the track. 

 I have done brake on 2 CAs but it been to many years and don't remember but I do remember not having trouble like I read about on the WD.

I did find more problems! Not a big suprise! Left brake drum in almost gone. Looks like this is the way you take a medium cost tractor and make it into a expensive tractor!:) Not going pulling with out some brake action. So I ordered a brake drum and other items yesterday. May get to tear into this once I get the front end back together. Then I can move it under the jib crane to move the tire and the axle housing easier.

New battery box and brake bands came yesterday. Look great!

Regards,

 Chris

Good move with the Voltmeter Chris! Looks like there's a lot of work to be done, but none of them are ever easy and cheap!  LOL!  They all turn into projects. Ya just gotta' throw money at it and it'll come around......  

Steve@B&B

 I must say you are the reason for the volt meters on the dash of each custom electrical system I install on a old Allis tractor. They seem to work fine and I have not had any issuses.

This CA will be a neat little puller and may suprise some folks. They can do a pretty good job on the track I am told. 

Regards,

 Chris

Just designed a wiring system and sent a bunch of parts out to a customer in the state of WA. He's building a CA puller for 2500 lb class I think it is. He's got super high compression in that little motor, and I just built him a custom OSGR Starter to turn it over cause' he couldn't find anybody to build him a starter till he found me. We eliminated that problem! 

Steve@B&B

 Well the plan is to assembly the front end of the CA soon and get the tractor turned around in the shop to pull the left wheel and the axle housing. I should go do some research on changing the brake drum. AC book makes it sound fairly easy. We will see.

Our club is planning a few more pulls this year so would like to have this ready to go this spring even if I just re assemble and do some upgrades. 

Regards,

 Chris

I think I will try the short arm front casting with the cast features for the weights. It seems to work freely, as the arm rotates with out binding. 

Brake drum is here so that project can start soon too.

Regards,

 Chris

 The CA is not moving along very fast. I did get the wide casting, short arm ,upper front casting installed. Also moved the alternator ahead another 1/4 inch to have better alignment with fan and crank pulleys. 

Need to get the CA mobile again, to move it under the jib, for work on the brake drum issues.

Tractor pulling will be here soon.

Off to try to trim apple trees today. Then soon to get ready to put up Maple sap tubing lines. Yep that time of the year is coming. With spring not that far away.

Hope things are good in Orange land!

Regards,

 Chris

 If your weather is like it is here in Ohio it would be a nice day to trim apple trees. I trimmed mine a couple weeks ago when we had them warmer days. Enjoy that CA, that's what I learned to drive on when I was 10.

 I got a pretty nice manifold form a AC parts guy in NY. The ears on mine are broke 

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Shop will be used for working on Grandson Nics new to him van for his electrical business. Stripping old wordage off the sides and getting it ready for his suppies and tools.

Regards,

Chris

I suppose you should let Nic use the shop. He did a lot of wiring in it, right?

Yes Nic has full access to the shop anytime. His wiring work really makes it a great place to hang out and occasionaly I do some work/ play also!

I need ot check the flatness, and probably take the manifold to a machine shop and have it surfaced. That would be the right thing to do!

The CA tractor waits!

Spending a lot more quality time with the wife now days. Things change in life. We are enjoying our breakfasts together at the local dinor several days a week.

Regards,

 Chris

Worked on the CA toget it back on its feet today.

As I looked throught the AC book on the VA I found that the manifold that I got was not the gasoline version? Not sure if this new manifold would work??

Removed the remaining inside race of the lower front spindle bearing. Cut most of the way through it then it was able to be tapped off. Added new lower seal.

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Inserted the outer race. I did not have new upper seals. So we are just going with what ever remains in there. Greased up the bearing really good.

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Short arm was used for this test:

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A couple iterations on the shims under the bolt for the gear. (I did set the timing marks correctly)

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Well the goal was to have it steer better. It does, but not sure its as good as new? Still not extremely smooth. Tractor steers same distance in both directions.

I can now move the tractor around in the shop and begin to think about the brake drum replacement on the left side of the tractor.

Regards,

 Chris

 The book shows a shield going over that arfea of the manifold for the non gas version. Maybe building up more heat?? I will check the carb hole spacing next. Paul should be along soon to answer this manifold issue?:)

Might take the front end apart and add a shim between the castings? Might be too tight on the steering gears? Just dont want too much slop either. Book says shim as needed! Easier said than done!

 Regards,

 Chris

  I suppose that you got the early manifold because it was cheaper than a NEW one. I'd still be tempted to get a NEW one and sell the early manifold to a B/C restorer looking to appease the correct police. Those early manifolds in perfect condition are worth more than the NEW ones cost. 

 Thanks for the information on the manifolds. Sometimes we just do things because we just dont know!:) Still learning on these CA's. Yes I see manifolds from Stieners for sale too. Good suggestions.

Regards,

Chris

I jacked up the tractor, loosened the lower casting fastners enough to get .020 inch shims in four places. tightended the bolts and checked for clearance in the sector gear. There was a little. Now this might have gone away if I had lowered the tractor. 

Shortened the two castelated nuts for the drag link to allow cotter pimns to be inserted.

Then proceeded to make some minor improvements to the steering wheel. Old, cracked, and crusty with black stuff coming off on your hands. You know what I mean. Sanded the hand grip area, filled in the cracks with 2 part  5 minute epoxy, sprayed a coating of flat black just to get started making it look better.

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Sanding required to smooth the epoxy a little, then a couple coats of black finish. Should be just a tad better for the old CA, and whoever may be driving. Would love to see my great granddaughter pulling this tractor in another 12 years!

Regards,

 Chris

Chris, good to see you're making progress on the latest Orange project!

How's the pup doing?

 Ruby is untrained and spoiled rotten! She is in control most of the time! Perfect!

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The steering wheel update looks good! Pumping up the front tires helped bring the steering to a acceptable condition:

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I did move the CA around to get the left rear under the jib. Brake work next up.

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Regards,

 Chris

 I am ready for the majic words on getting the old brake drum off the shaft. I do have the lock nut and lock screw out of the old drum. All the exterior of the old drum is broken off down to the hub. Tried some heat and pry bar. Some heat from the blue wrench. Some Kroyl. Some sawsall work some cold chisel blows. A little action with pry and air chisel. Well it hasnt moved yet! But we will get it. Thought about some type of puller working against the end of the shaft??

By the way these top pins are way eaiser than WD style lower brake pins! And Paul was right the brake bands were junk! 

Some shots as I removed the left rear housing:

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 I would like to get in and cut the old drum down to the keyway. But I just dont have a tool to do it. So I came here to ask for some advice from those that have removed CA brake drums.

Regards,
 Chris

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 Yes I was thinking the same thing. And that means I need to pull the other side also!:(

But its the right thing to do. This poor old tractor probably needs everything! Just not sure I want to go that deep?

 Thanks for the suggestion on the seal/s. Now would be the time for sure!

Regards,

 Chris

 New seals ordered from Sandy Lake.

Friend John and I worked on the brake drum removal. It is not a easy task. Broke off the exterior portion. Used a dremel and a small wheel to slit the casting about 3/16 deep above the keyway. Then a cold chisel through the drilled hole and it continued and split the casting. A lot of prying and choice words. The key was actually hard to get out too. I wanted to clean up the axle, and finally got it but not easy to get in through the hole in the exterior. Installed the new brake drum, and set screw/ lock nut.

Ruby was checking out the old brake drum:

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Regards,

 Chris

As much fun as you had with that be glad it was the left one. I could really use a right, hard to come by!

My guess on Ruby's interest, drum might smell like mice?

 Yes the entire casting cavity was full of mouse nests, and debis! What a mess! I think I would build some type of puller and or get a grinder small enough to get in the brake hole to cut the old drum apart. Cutting down above the keyway is the way to split the cast drum. After I salvaged the key and installed the new drum over the key, I tightened the bolt/ lock nut down. But the new keyway in the drum must be deep because the key kicked up more than I expected when viewed from the end. Humm?? Still looks like the key will work. 

Off topic: Today was all maple related with a annual membership meeting and dinner. Then Cheryl and I strung another 200 taps ( about 1/3 of our total ) this afternoon. 

Hope things are good in Orange land!

Regards,

 Chris

  Although those hand clutches (in good working condition) in the RH housing will handle more power than the factory engine clutch, for a dedicated puller I've always put a LH pinion shaft in the RH housing. It also looses a few pounds by replacing the hand clutch with a LH shaft and brake drum. 

This tractor has had the hand clutch removed and the brake drum looks pretty good on the right side. But I think I will try to pull that side apart and put in tha new seal for the rear diferential. 

Regards,

 Chris

I did the work with the shaft in the tractor housing. I believe to pull the shaft you need to have the drum and key off anyway. I did try to remove the shaft when the drum was off. But I guess I did not have the correct tooling as I could not move it outward with the exterior cap off. The outer bearing exterior cup must have to be pushed out with the bearing? I gave up and went back to cleaning the shaft the best I could to allow the new drum to fit on the shaft. 

I am sure there are folks on here that can tell you what the techniques are to get the shaft out easily?

Looking forward to your project. Let us know how it goes!

Regards,

Chris

 Humm? I should know and don't? Rim size is same as regular CA, So I think that is 24 inch? correct? I will try to check tomorrow. But one of the reasons I bought this was for the pretty good old Firestone rears.

I did get the rear seals from Sandy Lake. Removed and installed the smaller. I did get the larger (outer) seal also, But a little late now that I have the brake drum in place.

Regards,

 Chris

 I did get the right rear tire off today. Also have the rear supported with steel sawhorses under the bar which has the pedals attached. I have started to clean the rear of some of the accumulated grease and grime. Not sure whare I will end up on this CA? We all know its a lot of work to clean and update these 70 year old tractors.

Will try to get some pictures. Cold weather and some snow today. So most of the day was spent in the warmer shop.

Hope things are good in Orange Land!

 Regards,

 Chris

the tire size on the CA = 12-24 Firestone Field and road.

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We have the left final drive cleaned of grease and grime and set aside:

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Have the CA supported on both sides:

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ready to pull the right rear. Brake pin design on the top is awesome! Brake shoes on the right side were junk, Brake drum on the right is in pretty good shape, so I do not plan to change that. The seal in the differential has been replaced.;

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Regards,

 Chris

This is what these old brake shoes look like, not good at all:

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Pulling the right final was easy:

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Remove the cover from the right side of the rearend:

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Pop out the old seal and install the new seal:

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Sealant on the bolt threads

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Now I need to get serious about clean up. The time to do that is now. Wolud be nice to get the back half of the tractor done while apart. What does that mean? I dont know maybe a coat of fresh orange paint?? I have not painted anything in the shop yet. And I did not make a dedicated paint room. Lots of things in here that we dont want painted with orange overspray!

Regards,

 Chris