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Starting a diesel engine, especially cold question |
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gerkendave ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 08 Jul 2013 Location: York, Nebraska Points: 568 |
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So after seeing a decal inside a swather with a cummins diesel in it I am wondering if I am placing my throttle in the wrong position when starting cold. I always just bump off an idle. This decal showed the universal sign for "choke" as running the throttle 3/4 of the way up. Now I understand that there is no choke on a diesel but does running the throttle up aid in the engine starting easier when cold? I've also noticed our Grasshopper dealer we use at work starts the little Kubota with the throttle wide open. I've always felt it's extremely hard on something to start like that but maybe I'm all wrong. What do you all do?
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Lonn ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 16 Sep 2009 Location: Назарово,Russia Points: 29792 |
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Starting a Deere 4755, it automatically revs up high then throttles back on its own. I don't care for that method.
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skateboarder68 ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 29 Jan 2011 Location: Keota, IA Points: 369 |
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Our 8050 had a factory decal by the console that said something like To aid in cold weather starting fully open throttle. Return to idle at first fire
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Orange & Silver still earnin their keep on the farm: R62, Series IV D17 nf, 185, 6080, 6080 fwa, 220, 1968 D21, 7045, DT240.
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gerkendave ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 08 Jul 2013 Location: York, Nebraska Points: 568 |
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Good info guys thank you! I've always been amazed that our 300kw genset at work goes from 0 to wide open immediately! There is never an idle option even under cool down straight from wide open to nothing. Seems extreme!
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21360 |
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The cold starting technique varies with each brand of engine and what kind of fuel injection system it has on it. Some are better after throttling wide-open and others are better at a slow idle. Not the same for all is my point.
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gerkendave ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 08 Jul 2013 Location: York, Nebraska Points: 568 |
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What is the best option on my 190xt doc?
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Tbone95 ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 31 Aug 2012 Location: Michigan Points: 11964 |
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To me the best option is based on what method the equipment responds to. Do you plug it in? Everything I own of multiple brands if plugged in doesn’t need help from the throttle. If I need something that’s not plugged in, I’ll open the throttle but bring it down rapidly rather then letting it rev up right away, I hate that! I have one unit with a cold start mechanism that pours fuel to it automatically, but it changes other things so that it doesn’t rev. It sputters and chokes with smoke pouring then after a little bit runs perfect.
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DougG ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 20 Sep 2009 Location: Mo Points: 8246 |
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Some have a timing advance that is set at that lever position your decal had, we had a Ford 6610 that had a button on the pump that when pushed in it would fire off very easily in cold weather
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AC720Man ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 10 Oct 2016 Location: Shenandoah, Va Points: 5127 |
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I wish I had put in a block heater on my XT when I was doing maintenance 2 years ago. Starting a warm engine to me is always easier on the components verses the intake heater. Usually takes anywhere between 30-60 seconds of the heater depending on the outside temperature. She starts pretty well after a few spins of the engine. Use half throttle on mine and pull back to a 1/4 after she is up and running. Would rather have a block heater instead.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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DiyDave ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Gambrills, MD Points: 53254 |
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Best trick I ever learned was to slide a coleman tent heater, under the oil pan, and let simmer, fer about 45 minutes, then they ALL start much easier... If the tent heater don't fit under, use a single burner camp stove... Oh, and don't use on a leaky engine...
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21360 |
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Generally speaking, when starting an engine with a RoosaMaster system, I've always felt the throttle set at about 800 to 1,000 RPM starts best. I've slowed down many a Gleaner combine from 1200 RPM to 800 RPM and improved the cold starting.
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FREEDGUY ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 15 Apr 2017 Location: South West Mich Points: 5396 |
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We put a 55,000 btu torpedo heater on top of an empty 55 gallon barrel about 5' away from the block for about 5 minutes
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Walter(MO) ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 26 Dec 2009 Location: Warrenton, MO Points: 127 |
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My 175 diesel has a block heater that I plug in for 1 hour or a little longer so engine doesn't have to do a cold start. This seems to be the easiest start in cold weather which I hope is the best method for the engine. I place throttle about 1/4 open for starting.
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gerkendave ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 08 Jul 2013 Location: York, Nebraska Points: 568 |
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Thanks for all the reply guys. Currently I always plug the old girl in for a couple hours before use but having two pens of cattle and a pen of my wife's hay burners while working in town sometimes means I get caught a little off guard and need to feed when I get home from work, meaning she hasn't been plugged in. So I've always just used grid heat for 45 seconds crank a few times grid heat for about 30 seconds then crank until fire (usually pretty quick). Always placed the throttle at what I would consider would be a fast idle, just started wondering if there was some secret I was missing out on! Hopefully soon I'll have a loader on the d17 iv for feeding at last minute so I don't need to start the diesel just to drop a bale onto a feeder.
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pinball ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 28 May 2014 Location: missouriu Points: 6267 |
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for me starting a diesel at idle is always the best thing to do. a block heater for winter is a must. a lot of people just leave them plugged in during cold weather. it will save your motor over the long haul as warm oil is better for bearings and your motor will start quicker. a diesel motor works off of very small clearances for compression. excess fuel while trying to start it will wash down the cylinder walls. a warm motor turns over faster which is needed for compression. glow plugs do help with starting but they don't help bearings. just my thoughts.
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Unit3 ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 17 Oct 2009 Location: NC Iowa Points: 5571 |
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The 8070's like low idle. Once you get a pop out of them stop, count 5 Mississippi's and try again, and then again. On the third time they'll start. 8050 on the other hand like high idle. The 7045 has M&W's and it just fires. I doesn't care where the mercury is at. The 7080 HATES Iowa 7 months out of the year. May 1st though September it's pretty good. But if it could find work pulling a cart full of tourists through the streets of Cancun, it would be very happy.
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2-8070FWA PS/8050PS/7080/7045PS/200/D15-II/2-WD45/WD/3-WC/UC/C
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21360 |
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Technically, on 8000 series with AmBach pumps, open the throttle wide open and pull back to idle and then start it.
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JoeO(CMO) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Cent Missouri Points: 2694 |
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On the Military Gensets (Buda) used for standby power for remote Radar sites they stayed at operating temperature and required to take full load within 15 seconds or our radar had to go through complete warm up before coming online.
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injpumpEd ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Walnut IL Points: 5061 |
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I rebuilt a pump once for an Onan 3.4L 6 cylinder diesel in a gen set. Most genset diesel engines run 1800 for our 60 cycles, but this one was set up to run 3600, and it was locked in the wide open position. We didn't run it that way, I backed the low idle screw out so it would idle down. But I could not imagine starting a cold engine and having it go right to 3600! lol! They were supposedly piped warm water all the time so it wouldn't technically be cold upon startup. Most diesel engines are at start fuel when you start them, but moving the throttle to about 1/3 way up helps keep it in start fuel while spinning over with the starter, or as it begins firing and tries speeding up on it's own. Some inline pumps use a magnet to hold it in start fuel until you get to 1200 or more rpm, JD uses this. Not only is it holding it in excess fuel, it's also retart timing to start mode. You can pull slightly on the shut off knob to help "break" it off the magnet, but many times they will just die.
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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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jaybmiller ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Greensville,Ont Points: 24336 |
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My latest method of starting the forklift( Buda BD153 diesel) with 'lots' of blowby.... is to turn key on,to run fuel pump,give 4 squirts of ether to teh air intake(aka F150 system), pedal to the floor, turn key to start..keeping it there until engine actually revs fairly high. If cool...this works, when really cold, I need to do this routine twice. Once it's good and hot, only need turn key to start like a normal guy would do to a normal machine. Jay
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
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Unit3 ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 17 Oct 2009 Location: NC Iowa Points: 5571 |
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So I should open it full then back to low idle before I turn the key? I will try it. Thank you.
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2-8070FWA PS/8050PS/7080/7045PS/200/D15-II/2-WD45/WD/3-WC/UC/C
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blue924.9 ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 22 Mar 2013 Location: George Iowa Points: 1086 |
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If it still has the manual fuel shutoff pull that out and slowly push it in while turning the engine over and it will start and run at low idle without the rev up |
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hi my names dan, I am a young guy. i have a problem, i prefer my tractors orange and my clutches mechanical, thanks for letting me share
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SteveM C/IL ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Shelbyville IL Points: 8471 |
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You can remove the magnet from the rack rod on the inline Bosch to lower the rev on startup.My 8070 is this way and still speeds up at start but nothing like the Deeres and like Blue says,you can crank while holding shut off and slowly release for no rev.....I'm not aware of any Deeres being short lived because of their start up method,just saying.
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Tbone95 ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 31 Aug 2012 Location: Michigan Points: 11964 |
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exSW ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 21 Jul 2017 Location: Pennsylvania Points: 914 |
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Running them everyday seems to help also. My primary feeding and snow removal tractor used to be a D282 powered Farmall 560. Good batteries,glow plugs, block heater and starts were no problem 😊.
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Tim NH ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 16 Oct 2012 Location: Lancaster NH Points: 1118 |
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I use an outdoor pool timer Dave. They are the heavy duty timer. I set it for 3 hours of heat, starts right up like summer time. Tim
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1950 WD 1959 D14 1955 WD45 1976 7000 B 207
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modirt ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 18 Jul 2018 Location: Missouri Points: 8211 |
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I've never been very good at blindly following directions....even worse when the directions run counter to what seems reasonable to me. That would seem to be the case with this cold start procedure. I have in front of me a manual for a diesel tractor that also says to open the throttle 3/4 to wide open to start......then back off to idle once it does. Thinking of the reason why, I can only guess that with a cold engine, at normal idle speed, there isn't enough vaporized fuel available to get it to ignite......so you have to "flood it". Then once it fires......enough heat is generated to get a second fire, a third, and so on. Glow plugs would do the same and a block heater even more better as far as providing a high enough temp to get diesel fuel to ignite. And then there was that can of ether......ether being much more volatile ignites at the cold temps. If an open throttle is common practice to cold start a diesel, I'd never heard of it. Probably because we used to use ether, but later switched to make sure all the tractors that we used that had to make a cold start got electric block heaters on them and they were always plugged in the night before. I guess what troubles me most about cold starting a diesel is what that cold oil is doing......or not if it's so thick it won't move, not to mention the load on an already cold battery to get that heavy load moving. Perhaps you get around that with 15w-40 oil? And lastly, when it was really cold (0*F and colder), we started blending #1 fuel oil in the tank to keep the fuel from gelling up.
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Tbone95 ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 31 Aug 2012 Location: Michigan Points: 11964 |
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Modern oil is amazing stuff. 15W-40 should flow cold better than "old" straight viscosity oil. If you used 40w or 50w in the heavy work of summer time, and switch to 30w for winter, the modern 15w should still flow much better. When you gotta start one, you do what you gotta do. Start up is the hardest thing on an engine of anything at any time of year. But, we bought them to use them, so you use them when you have to.
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21360 |
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Again, each engine design has its correct way of cold starting. Different fuel injection systems is one difference. Another is DIRECT injection or PRE-COMBUSTION chamber, of which there must be at least half-dozen different ways to do that. Manifold heaters and actual glow plugs inside the combustion chamber is something else to consider. For those who think 15W-40 is a Winter use engine oil, try an oil change of 10W-30 diesel oil and you won't believe how much faster the engine cranks on a zero degree morning. Faster cranking means easier starting !!
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Lonn ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 16 Sep 2009 Location: Назарово,Russia Points: 29792 |
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I use 10W-30 year around on everything most times. The 7050 will get 15W-40 if I know I'm not going to use it in the winter and that one usually gets all the heavy work.
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