Rod bearing question

Ok, I think before I pull anything apart I'll see if cracking lines on each injector tells me anything, if not then I'll drain oil pull oil pan and valve cover and see what I can( any tips on pulling head if I get that far into it?

You can NOT use oversize bearings unless you you turn the crank journals UNDERSIZE.. You are not going to have .020 clearance between the rod and crank on a running motor. You would not be able to maintain oil pressure... If the motor has been overhauled BEFORE, then the back side of the bearings should have a stamping on it for size.

Edited by steve(ill) - 07 Mar 2022 at 12:47pm

If you aren't going to remove the crankshaft, the only thing you can do is replace the existing bearings with the exact size that are in there now. The best practice would be to remove the crankshaft, have it miked, and, if the crankshaft is out of spec, have it turned.

I'm not sure what makes the whining noise towards the front of motor( on start up it's not doing it but within a couple seconds it starts) kinda to me sounds like a noisy pump bearing but not sure how to pinpoint it?
Could be oil pump or coolant pump right?

I know I need a new radiator while I have this torn apart this far so that's in the plans (anyone have a recommendation for a maker of one? I found a couple on eBay that are custom TIG welded for $150 cheaper than regular old black steel one- commercial made)
I'm wondering since I'm that far in I should probably see what the whining noise is is why I'm asking...
I will look into the hydraulic pump. I'm obviously not a motor guy I'm just learning as I go and trying to pick up on the correct way to do things and I need to look into my manual to even see where this hydraulic pump is located. Is there any reason to look at the oil pump for the motor while I'm doing all this or the water pump? By saying this I'm assuming there's all three? Thanks Matt

Edited by Hunt4Allis - 09 Mar 2022 at 8:32am

If you get the pan off as your worrying about rod bearing, yes look at the oil pump.

Crawled under to look at removing oil pan and it's a cast iron one that is somewhat "pinned" together (incorporated) with the front axle support as can be seen in attached screenshot of parts manual.
For removal it says" remove oil pan" !?!
Well I'd like to just unbolt it but it has me allittle hesitant to do so since it seams pinned together to front axle support?
What are people s thought here?

Hunt, its hard to see the item numbers in the photo above... I would look at the pan a little closer.. It would be very abnormal to connect anything to the oil pan.. The rear pivot pin for steering is normally connected to the bottom of the bell housing and it is very CLOSE to the pan, but should not have anything to do with the pan.

Here's a picture of under oil pan
I think the whole wish bone will need removed and the round steering cross arm

Okay it looks like you had somewhere to rig to overhead to utilize a chain fall to lower the motor down correct? I often hear about when a new crankshaft is needed that the front bucket and rear bucket need to be removed and the tractor needs split in half which creates a ton of problems for me at least at the time because I don't have a large enough area to rig anything overhead like that. Most places around me want somewhere between $2,500 and $5,000 just to split the motor from the transmission which is not going to happen. That is only for splitting it. I plan on starting the process of taking it apart and seeing what all is going on. In my manual it says to remove the injectors which I don't understand what that has to do with taking the valve cover off? I do realize that I will have to remove them and I've started looking at what type of puller is needed to get them out. I will post on here a puller part number from my manual to see if anyone knows what can be cross referenced with it.

Okay it looks like you had somewhere to rig to overhead to utilize a chain fall to lower the motor down correct? I often hear about when a new crankshaft is needed that the front bucket and rear bucket need to be removed and the tractor needs split in half 

if it's a wet sleeve engine that is not needed.

DrAllis wrote: Wet sleeves always need to be installed without the Orings to make sure they will fall into place easily and I like them to be able to rotate in the block. I have always used vegetable oil or Crisco smeared on the lower block bore and the sleeve Orings.

I'm confused by you say wet sleeves need to be installed without the o-rings and then at the end of the sentence it says in the sleeve o-rings?

Edited by Hunt4Allis - 14 Mar 2022 at 1:23pm

No Orings to be SURE the block is clean and not warped and rotating the sleeves while in the block without Orings on them.. The sleeve standout is checked with no Orings on the sleeves for accuracy.

After you do final installation of every sleeve, you are going to want to put some washers on a head bolt and snug a nut on it to hold the sleeve in place. If you don't, the sleeve could fall out (gravity) when you rotate the engine to work on the bottom end. 

Edited by WF owner - 14 Mar 2022 at 2:18pm