This site is not affiliated with AGCO Inc., Duluth GA., Allis-Chalmers Co., Milwaukee, WI., or any surviving or related corporate entity. All trademarks remain the property of their respective owners. All information presented herein should be considered the result of an un-moderated public forum with no responsibility for its accuracy or usability assumed by the users and sponsors of this site or any corporate entity.
The Forum Parts and Services Unofficial Allis Store Tractor Shows Serial Numbers History
Forum Home Forum Home > Allis Chalmers > Farm Equipment
  New Posts New Posts
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login


Removing B crankshaft pulley?

 Post Reply Post Reply
Author
Message
 Rating: Topic Rating: 1 Votes, Average 5.00  Topic Search Topic Search  Topic Options Topic Options
Dean (West MI) View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: West Michigan
Points: 1277
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dean (West MI) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Removing B crankshaft pulley?
    Posted: 25 Dec 2013 at 1:21pm
Any tips in removing the crankshaft pulley from B? I removed the nut, and set screw, verified that it does not have another set screw, soaked it in oil, heated it with MAP gas and used a pry bar, but can't get it to move.

The tractor has always been kept inside, so it's not rusted on. I guess it just doesn't want to get over the key? Do I need a special tool? If so, can you please provide me with the name and specifications of the tool so that I can go online and buy one?

As you can tell, my tool supply is limited.
Back to Top
Sponsored Links


Back to Top
Chuck(ONT) View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Ontario
Points: 1055
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chuck(ONT) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Dec 2013 at 2:19pm
Dean, I have used a wedge on both sides of the pulley along with a puller. I have done 3 that way with no problems.
Never take life too seriously.

Nobody gets out alive anyway!

1C 1 WD45 1 AC180
Back to Top
StanInLowerAL View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: South Alabama
Points: 222
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote StanInLowerAL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Dec 2013 at 7:09pm
I looked in my B service manual but no information was given for the crankshaft pulley removal.  I did find that on my D12 there were 2 set screws stacked on top of each other.  I did not realize that the pulley was Cast Iron and broke it with a jaw type puller so beware of excessive force on the edges.  There is a special wedge puller made in two sections that is applied behind the pulley and is forced into place by tightening bolts on either half.  I'm not sure of the correct name but check with a automotive type tool supplier.  They should know what it is called. 
Back to Top
Ted in NE-OH View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 12 Nov 2009
Location: Austinburg OH
Points: 1703
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ted in NE-OH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Dec 2013 at 7:31pm
Put a bearing splitter behind the pulley and use puller on it. Pulling on the pulley directly will surely break it. BTDT Smile
CA, WD, C, 3 Bs, 2 Gs, WC, I-400, 914
Back to Top
CTuckerNWIL View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: NW Illinois
Points: 22824
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Dec 2013 at 8:34pm
Bearing splitter. The 2 tapped holes are for studs used to pull on.



Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 26 Dec 2013 at 12:49pm
http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
Back to Top
StanInLowerAL View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: South Alabama
Points: 222
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote StanInLowerAL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Dec 2013 at 9:47pm
If you want to see what the tool looks like and price, go to mcmastercarr.com website and look at their tools: Mechanical Pullers, push/pullers and attachments and accessories.  In my online catalogue it is page 2386.  Or you might borrow one, some parts sales like AUTOZONE has a tool loan program.  Good luck
Back to Top
desertjoe View Drop Down
Orange Level Access
Orange Level Access
Avatar

Joined: 23 Sep 2013
Location: New mexico
Points: 13681
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote desertjoe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Dec 2013 at 6:29am

   Yep,,,they are a bear to remove,,,even harder when you don't know bout the second allen under the one you can see,,,,
   The bearing puller looks like the safest way to remove. I used a 3 jaw puller and still broke the cast iron pulley,,, Good Luck on yours.
Back to Top
Dean (West MI) View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: West Michigan
Points: 1277
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dean (West MI) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Dec 2013 at 1:56pm
Thanks guys. What size bearing splitter should I get? I measured the pulley and it is 5". Would an 8" bearing splitter work, or would that be too big?

Edited by Dean (West MI) - 27 Dec 2013 at 3:12pm
Back to Top
CTuckerNWIL View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: NW Illinois
Points: 22824
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Dec 2013 at 6:24pm
The tapped holes in the splitter have to be far enough apart to clear the OD of the pulley. That's what size you need. Geek Real helpful right  Big smile
http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
Back to Top
The Consultator View Drop Down
Silver Level
Silver Level
Avatar

Joined: 19 Sep 2017
Location: Rio Rancho, NM
Points: 120
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote The Consultator Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Apr 2018 at 4:51pm
Very Greenhorn question to follow: I'm also needing to remove the crankshaft pulley on my B. I don't have a maintenance manual yet. I'm assuming the set screw gets removed and then the lock nut?! Then there's another screw?

I have the hand crank pulley, with stripped out groves. Luckily for me, the screw and nut are right in line with the nose weight bracket, so I can't get a screwdriver, wrench, or socket in there.

My tool supply is also very limited, and as best as I can tell, I need to remove the front axle from the nose weight bracket, so I can take the bracket off to reach the screw/nut. All while having the front end jacked and supported to do so?!


Edited by The Consultator - 02 Apr 2018 at 4:52pm
1939 Allis-Chalmers "B" restored in 2010- very good condition.
Back to Top
Dean (West MI) View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: West Michigan
Points: 1277
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dean (West MI) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Apr 2018 at 11:08am
It's been a few years since I removed the pulley. Most do not have the extra set screw, but it would be a good idea to check yours out to make sure.
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 11.10
Copyright ©2001-2017 Web Wiz Ltd.

This page was generated in 0.099 seconds.


Help Support the
Unofficial Allis Forum