Removing B crankshaft pulley?
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=82238
Printed Date: 29 Apr 2025 at 5:43am
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Topic: Removing B crankshaft pulley?
Posted By: Dean (West MI)
Subject: Removing B crankshaft pulley?
Date Posted: 25 Dec 2013 at 1:21pm
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Any tips in removing the crankshaft pulley from B? I removed the nut, and set screw, verified that it does not have another set screw, soaked it in oil, heated it with MAP gas and used a pry bar, but can't get it to move. The tractor has always been kept inside, so it's not rusted on. I guess it just doesn't want to get over the key? Do I need a special tool? If so, can you please provide me with the name and specifications of the tool so that I can go online and buy one? As you can tell, my tool supply is limited. |
Replies:
Posted By: Chuck(ONT)
Date Posted: 25 Dec 2013 at 2:19pm
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Dean, I have used a wedge on both sides of the pulley along with a puller. I have done 3 that way with no problems. ------------- Never take life too seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway! 1C 1 WD45 1 AC180 |
Posted By: StanInLowerAL
Date Posted: 25 Dec 2013 at 7:09pm
| I looked in my B service manual but no information was given for the crankshaft pulley removal. I did find that on my D12 there were 2 set screws stacked on top of each other. I did not realize that the pulley was Cast Iron and broke it with a jaw type puller so beware of excessive force on the edges. There is a special wedge puller made in two sections that is applied behind the pulley and is forced into place by tightening bolts on either half. I'm not sure of the correct name but check with a automotive type tool supplier. They should know what it is called. |
Posted By: Ted in NE-OH
Date Posted: 25 Dec 2013 at 7:31pm
Put a bearing splitter behind the pulley and use puller on it. Pulling on the pulley directly will surely break it. BTDT
 ------------- CA, WD, C, 3 Bs, 2 Gs, WC, I-400, 914 |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 25 Dec 2013 at 8:34pm
Bearing splitter. The 2 tapped holes are for studs used to pull on.
------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: StanInLowerAL
Date Posted: 25 Dec 2013 at 9:47pm
| If you want to see what the tool looks like and price, go to mcmastercarr.com website and look at their tools: Mechanical Pullers, push/pullers and attachments and accessories. In my online catalogue it is page 2386. Or you might borrow one, some parts sales like AUTOZONE has a tool loan program. Good luck |
Posted By: desertjoe
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2013 at 6:29am
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Yep,,,they are a bear to remove,,,even harder when you don't know bout the second allen under the one you can see,,,,  The bearing puller looks like the safest way to remove. I used a 3 jaw puller and still broke the cast iron pulley,,, Good Luck on yours. |
Posted By: Dean (West MI)
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2013 at 1:56pm
| Thanks guys. What size bearing splitter should I get? I measured the pulley and it is 5". Would an 8" bearing splitter work, or would that be too big? |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2013 at 6:24pm
The tapped holes in the splitter have to be far enough apart to clear the OD of the pulley. That's what size you need.  Real helpful right 
------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: The Consultator
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2018 at 4:51pm
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Very Greenhorn question to follow: I'm also needing to remove the crankshaft pulley on my B. I don't have a maintenance manual yet. I'm assuming the set screw gets removed and then the lock nut?! Then there's another screw? I have the hand crank pulley, with stripped out groves. Luckily for me, the screw and nut are right in line with the nose weight bracket, so I can't get a screwdriver, wrench, or socket in there. My tool supply is also very limited, and as best as I can tell, I need to remove the front axle from the nose weight bracket, so I can take the bracket off to reach the screw/nut. All while having the front end jacked and supported to do so?! ------------- 1939 Allis-Chalmers "B" restored in 2010- very good condition. |
Posted By: Dean (West MI)
Date Posted: 08 Apr 2018 at 11:08am
| It's been a few years since I removed the pulley. Most do not have the extra set screw, but it would be a good idea to check yours out to make sure. |