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Rear Rim repair |
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Ranse ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Mar 2016 Location: Tennessee Points: 775 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 02 Sep 2018 at 2:41pm |
I picked this rim up at the GOTO in Pontiac for $40. This one item made the whole trip worth it for me. I've been looking for a rim like this for four years, 10x24 with the four square mounts. I don't know why they're so hard to find. I guess because most D-10/12s and CAs have spin outs. Mine had to be different. It does need some work, but I think I can save it.
![]() It has some rust holes around the valve stem hole (typical). I don't think a patch will be necessary, I believe I can just weld them up. ![]() I'm more worried about the dents. The outside flange looks good. The inside flange has several bad dents around it. What's the best way to get them out? My first thought is to lay it on a piece of steel and hammer on it, maybe use some heat. Other than that, I'm not sure. What has worked for y'all? This is probably the worst dent. At least they are on the inside. ![]() |
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Gary Burnett ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Virginia Points: 3029 |
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Those rims are all over ebay.
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Ranse ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Mar 2016 Location: Tennessee Points: 775 |
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You can get the loops, but they don't make the square mounts anymore. I haven't seen any used ones on ebay. Just done a quick search again - nothing.
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DiyDave ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Gambrills, MD Points: 53523 |
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My D-10 still has the british leyland 4 loop rims, wif farmall centers, on it. Gonna stay on it till one goes flat...
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HD6GTOM ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 30 Nov 2009 Location: MADISON CO IA Points: 6627 |
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Ranse, they make a special tool to straighten those out, I bought 1 it does work, but if you arn't real particular, a 3 lb hammer will do almost as good. Simply lay it down on a cement floor and give it a good lick or two. I've done dozens of them that way. Looks like a good sand blasting and some paint will make her as good AS new.
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Sugarmaker ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8436 |
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Ranse,
Good score on the rim! I have seen way worse. Your on track for your fix. As mentioned I would have it blasted next. That will show if you have any other small holes. I think the inside rim edge will come back if you can think about how it was damaged and reverse the force. Probably wont all come out but good its on the inside! My guess is the damage was done by someone aggressively trying to get the tire off?? Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Ranse ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Mar 2016 Location: Tennessee Points: 775 |
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HD6GTOM,
I'd like to borrow that tool for a while, but I know that won't happen so I guess I'll have to go with that second method you mentioned. I didn't know there was a tool for that, I can't imagine what it would even look like. Sugarmaker, I'd say you are right. I'm a little worried about that myself. I got to break down the rim on the tractor. I'm going to take both rims to the sandblaster at the same time. I will destroy the tire if I have to. I have mismatched tires and planning to get new anyway. The aftermarket rim on the other side, I'm leaving the tire on it and try to sell as is. |
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jaybmiller ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Greensville,Ont Points: 24415 |
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I had pretty good luck using a small pipe wrench to 'uncurl' things that shouldn't be curled. Add a 2' 'extension' of 3/4" water pipe to the wrench and you'll have good ,easy control over the uncurling. Go in small steps and try NOT to go too far. Jay
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
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Brian Jasper co. Ia ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Prairie City Ia Points: 10508 |
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He's probably fixed it long ago, but I have used a very large crescent wrench on curled edges like that.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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NomoreJohnDeere ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 24 Jul 2017 Location: Missouri Ozarks Points: 308 |
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https://springfield.craigslist.org/grd/d/springfield-tractor-tire/6937317510.html
not mine looks similar and is same size? |
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HD3
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TimNearFortWorth ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Dec 2009 Points: 2014 |
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I've had good luck using a 4 lb. square head and multiple ball peen hammers, a couple good hits in the center of the upset using two hammers before working it from each end.
Small ball peens allow you to get in behind the lip when hit with the 4 lb., go slow on a good concrete floor so you don't go too far and I have "re-shaped" some nasty deflections over the years as those rims are actually not that thick for material. Sandblasting will show up any pin holes you can't see initially and the weld shop I use does wire feed to fill em'. Only had one we could not save because contour around valve stem had too much material loss, became a fire pit ring. My take on rims is not exceeding half the cost of new replacement including blasting fee. Worth it to me as most new rims have the rim stop clamp about 1/2 a hole off preventing running them all the way in towards the fender like you could on the originals.
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