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Rear Rim repair

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=153605
Printed Date: 04 Jun 2025 at 11:11am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: Rear Rim repair
Posted By: Ranse
Subject: Rear Rim repair
Date Posted: 02 Sep 2018 at 2:41pm
I picked this rim up at the GOTO in Pontiac for $40. This one item made the whole trip worth it for me. I've been looking for a rim like this for four years, 10x24 with the four square mounts. I don't know why they're so hard to find. I guess because most D-10/12s and CAs have spin outs. Mine had to be different. It does need some work, but I think I can save it.








It has some rust holes around the valve stem hole (typical). I don't think a patch will be necessary, I believe I can just weld them up.


I'm more worried about the dents. The outside flange looks good. The inside flange has several bad dents around it. What's the best way to get them out? My first thought is to lay it on a piece of steel and hammer on it, maybe use some heat. Other than that, I'm not sure. What has worked for y'all? This is probably the worst dent. At least they are on the inside.




Replies:
Posted By: Gary Burnett
Date Posted: 02 Sep 2018 at 4:00pm
Those rims are all over ebay.


Posted By: Ranse
Date Posted: 02 Sep 2018 at 5:06pm
You can get the loops, but they don't make the square mounts anymore. I haven't seen any used ones on ebay. Just done a quick search again - nothing.


Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 02 Sep 2018 at 5:10pm
My D-10 still has the british leyland 4 loop rims, wif farmall centers, on it.  Gonna stay on it till one goes flat...Wink


Posted By: HD6GTOM
Date Posted: 02 Sep 2018 at 8:05pm
Ranse, they make a special tool to straighten those out, I bought 1 it does work, but if you arn't real particular, a 3 lb hammer will do almost as good. Simply lay it down on a cement floor and give it a good lick or two. I've done dozens of them that way. Looks like a good sand blasting and some paint will make her as good AS new.


Posted By: Sugarmaker
Date Posted: 02 Sep 2018 at 8:37pm
Ranse,
 Good score on the rim! I have seen way worse. Your on track for your fix. As mentioned I would have it blasted next. That will show if you have any other small holes. I think the inside rim edge will come back if you can think about how it was damaged and reverse the force. Probably wont all come out but good its on the inside! My guess is the damage was done by someone aggressively trying to get the tire off??
Regards,
 Chris


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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.


Posted By: Ranse
Date Posted: 03 Sep 2018 at 12:07am
HD6GTOM,
I'd like to borrow that tool for a while, but I know that won't happen so I guess I'll have to go with that second method you mentioned. I didn't know there was a tool for that, I can't imagine what it would even look like.

Sugarmaker,
I'd say you are right. I'm a little worried about that myself. I got to break down the rim on the tractor. I'm going to take both rims to the sandblaster at the same time. I will destroy the tire if I have to. I have mismatched tires and planning to get new anyway. The aftermarket rim on the other side, I'm leaving the tire on it and try to sell as is.


Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 23 Jul 2019 at 1:34pm
I had pretty good luck using a small pipe wrench to 'uncurl' things that shouldn't be curled. Add a 2' 'extension' of 3/4" water pipe to the wrench and you'll have good ,easy control over the uncurling. Go in small steps and try NOT to go too far.

Jay


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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water


Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 23 Jul 2019 at 3:36pm
He's probably fixed it long ago, but I have used a very large crescent wrench on curled edges like that.

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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford


Posted By: NomoreJohnDeere
Date Posted: 23 Jul 2019 at 7:18pm
https://springfield.craigslist.org/grd/d/springfield-tractor-tire/6937317510.html" rel="nofollow - https://springfield.craigslist.org/grd/d/springfield-tractor-tire/6937317510.html

not mine 
looks similar and is same size?




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HD3


Posted By: TimNearFortWorth
Date Posted: 23 Jul 2019 at 7:44pm
I've had good luck using a 4 lb. square head and multiple ball peen hammers, a couple good hits in the center of the upset using two hammers before working it from each end.
Small ball peens allow you to get in behind the lip when hit with the 4 lb., go slow on a good concrete floor so you don't go too far and I have "re-shaped" some nasty deflections over the years as those rims are actually not that thick for material. Sandblasting will show up any pin holes you can't see initially and the weld shop I use does wire feed to fill em'. Only had one we could not save because contour around valve stem had too much material loss, became a fire pit ring.
My take on rims is not exceeding half the cost of new replacement including blasting fee.  Worth it to me as most new rims have the rim stop clamp about 1/2 a hole off preventing running them all the way in towards the fender like you could on the originals.



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