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Radiator fluid in oil Allis B

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Sugarmaker View Drop Down
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Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec 2019 at 9:17am
Gman,
Good pictures! 
Glad that block looks ok! O-rings look bad! 
Do you have a engine stand? Looks like that would be the thing to do next! It sure makes the inspection, cleaning, and assembly work easier. And sealing up the bottom end is much easier too.
Good luck in your rebuild!
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Gary View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec 2019 at 10:30am

An 'Engine Stand' is definitely recommended.

Harbor Freight presently has a 3 day Sale on both Engine Hoist and Engine Stand.

Both well worth the money.

       1 ton Crane $128.

   1000 lb Engine Stand $49.

Gary
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ACJohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec 2019 at 1:49pm
When installing new (or used) sleeves, use plenty of o-ring lube and deburr any sharp edges on the top side of web where the o-rings seal.  I put together an entire engine only to find I cut an o-ring installing a sleeve.  PITA to have to do it over!!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gman54313 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec 2019 at 2:05pm
you gents are reading my mind on the stand LOL Also thank you for the advise on the O-rings. I have never installed sleeves so any feedback is valuable to me.

Kindest Regards

Greg aka gman
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Sugarmaker View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec 2019 at 5:15pm
gman,
I had never done any till last spring. I took some lessons, did some research, got a mentor, and kept working on the seat area to get the correct sleeve standout! Was it easy? No! Was it worth the effort? Yes!
Your going in the right direction. Little Marv has some good pictures of his work on your type engine. I have a thread on a WD45. and there are many folks that can help you with the little details to get it right!
I know these can be re-built in frame, also block could be rolled around on a bench. But if your like me and need to check things a couple times the engine stand allows many rotations to work on the block and the components to assemble it properly. 
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Dick L View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dick L Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec 2019 at 5:45pm
An added tip on installing sleeves! They are wet sleeves and are (not) a press fit. Without o rings the sleeve needs to be able to drop in and turn 360º with one hand. Going back to my pictures you will see a flapper in a die grinder. This is how I get the hole cleaned out so they will turn 369º It takes more than a little flapping. I find the tight areas using bluing. Paint mist will also work. A tight fit will not let the o rings enter the bore with out pinching/shearing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gman54313 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec 2019 at 7:04pm
SugarMaker

I am the same way in regards to want to measure twice and cut only once mentality
I spent most of my younger life rolling engine blocks around on the work bench. Not much fun so I spent $60 bucks on the stand. now I just need to find some threaded rod or long bolts should have something laying around. Wait, I should first need to pull the flywheel.

regards Greg

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gman54313 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec 2019 at 7:14pm
Dick L.

I have been pondering the process of the sleeve installation and how one would keep the o rings from being damaged, I am very glad you posted that tip. I recall the pic of the flapper tool and will review your post again. The bluing is a very great idea for the high spots cause I imagine one would want to keep things as symmetrical as possible.

Regards

Greg
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WF owner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec 2019 at 7:16pm
Harbor Freight's stands are good. I have four of them.

I am thinking of spending a little more to get one from Jeg's that has a worm gear drive to rotate the engine. If you have ever rotated an engine on the Harbor Freight stand, you know you had better eat your Wheaties and hold on. I'm getting too old for that, so I think I may take the plunge for this stand.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec 2019 at 8:35pm
WF That has some very nice features in a engine stand! Yes if they are not fairly balanced it can be a real challenge rotating them! 
Only dis advantage is that you cant attach the support/ pivot to the engine first and then pick it up and insert the stand on to the rotating shaft. 
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dick L Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Dec 2019 at 6:11am
Originally posted by WF owner WF owner wrote:

Harbor Freight's stands are good. I have four of them.

I am thinking of spending a little more to get one from Jeg's that has a worm gear drive to rotate the engine. If you have ever rotated an engine on the Harbor Freight stand, you know you had better eat your Wheaties and hold on. I'm getting too old for that, so I think I may take the plunge for this stand.



I adjust an engines vertical center after adding or removing the head to keep from ripping an arm off.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Dec 2019 at 12:56pm
Greg,
 I believe that you will have to pull the flywheel to mount the engine. But I have not done one of those blocks.
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dick L Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Dec 2019 at 1:38pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Dec 2019 at 2:16pm
Dick,
Nice! Thanks!
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gman54313 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Dec 2019 at 5:20pm
Originally posted by Dick L Dick L wrote:



To me that is a work of art and should be display instead of the some of these paintings/sculptures I've seen in our public museums.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ac fleet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Dec 2019 at 2:13pm
Slick idea!!! LOL!!!
http://machinebuildersnetwork.com/
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gman54313 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Dec 2019 at 8:52pm
Update, I had time today to mount the engine block to the stand. Man I wish we had these things when I was younger maybe they did but I never heard of them. Anyway I was able to remove the crank caps mark them and remove the crank and the cam. sometime this week I will mic the journals' to see if they are in specs. The main journal surfaces look very smooth except where the oil groove is on the bearing that looks to be stained by something maybe water thinking emery cloth. I don't think I will be turning any wrenches this week because it is going to get very, very cold this week. But no big deal I have all winter to work on this project. A big thank you to Alex for reaching out to me with some misc. parts he has to offer. never knew there was a place only 30 minutes away from me who deals in old tractor parts.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Dec 2019 at 10:04pm
Always replace cam bearings on an old AC
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Dec 2019 at 7:24am
Greg,
 That is looking like a Allis engine torn down! Clean up and inspection next. Your moving right along! Thanks for the update on your progress!
Regards,
Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote DiyDave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Dec 2019 at 7:37am
I wouldn't go with emory cloth, try some of those scotch-bright pads, finest you can get...Wink
Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need!
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