Potential Purchase: 7580 Black Belly, questions

He is a broker and he is asking for less than 5?  In theory he would be making money in that deal as well.  Wonder how much be bought it for?  Seems awful cheap for something that size.  I'd be a little skeptical, but that's just me...

I'd go for it. Darrel

SHAMELESS wrote: i'd sure jump on it! and wouldn't worry about the PD since it works on the low side unless you have a lot of road travel! my 7080 was good only on the high side, and didn't bother me disking with it that way! would have preferred it good on the low side tho as I don't have much road travel! can't go wrong with any 4x4 for $5000. yer a lucky bugger! black fuel...sounds like it had/has soybean fuel in it! may hafta clean out the fuel tank and lines good.

Bleeds back fuel, shameless, no black fuel! :)

How long did you run the 7080 with no low side? did you buy it that way?

As long as we dont hurt anything running it as-is, we may buy it and run it. If it will grenade, we might let it pass.

We run one and I would probably buy the one you are describing at that price. Ours has a lift pump on it and has ever since we got it. There is something different (im not an expert) about the advance on those bigger inj. pumps, and we had problems with ours getting messed up and not starting well several times. It might not be a bleeding issue, but an advance in the pump issue. Either one, once its running I dont think it hurts much. Check for slack in the drive lines. One drives the rear axle and one drives the hydraulics, so it is running all the time. They can get floppy and are $$$ to fix. The shifter linkage for high to low is different than the other tractors we have, so that could be part of the problem, but I doubt it. The cables are running a LONG way compared to other 7000 series tractors, so a little slack multiplied by that distance COULD make a difference, but I wouldnt bet lets on it. Look at the mph chart and see how often you would use the high side (other than roading it), and see how much it matters to you. I really have no idea how much fixing it right would cost, because we have never had to do one. With the way we run our 7580, I would probably not worry much about it if it was in my neck of the woods. 

Bob...I bought the 7080 that way, didn't know it was out when I bought it, and when I went to drive it home 40 miles...I was on the high side anyway! found out it didn't have a low side when I hooked up to my disk! so I tried the high side and it worked fine! used it that way for years! even when I was ripping with 7 shanks. 1st gear on the high side worked fine! plenty of power there! like I said...if you don't have a lot of road travel, the low side should last along time! shucks....with 8 tires hitting the ground and the weight, it should pull a lot that way unless you have extremely wide equipment!

More info.

He said the oil level was fine, but maybe he added some oil and it read full and he though all was well, irregardless, the transmission is a little bit below add. could this be part of the issue of no high on the PD?

It is serial number 2866 which makes it a final year, 1981, which is allways a good thing, many updates are factory installed, including the lift pump.

The top driveline that runs all the time for hydraulics does have a wobble to it (I assume the slip joint is wearing out) It runs true up front, but you look back into the frame, and it is wobbling.

Plenty of hyd. leaks

The PTO does kick on and off

The Tires are 18.4x38.

It does have one almost new BKT bias, one fairly new GY Dyna Torque II bias, one crappy 30 percent bias, and the other 5 are 5-15 percent Goodyear Dynatorque radials.

No calcium, double bevel wheels on cast centers inside, and 9 bolt duals with reinforcing plates outside.

a few small cracks around the upper hinge of the door, nothing broke loose yet, so should be easily repairable. no radio, needs a cab kit and a lower cushion. front window cracked from a hail storm, mirrors cracked as well.

Overall, I am thinking that the problem is isolated to the PD clutch itself, so the trans. and drop box should be ok, and the engine sounds great, very little blowby, and it drove 35-40 miles to get here, so I am leaning toward buying it unless swayed otherwise.

Jwmac7060 wrote: I owned a 7580 and personally would stay away from it even at 5 grand. Ours was a money pit and I love Allis tractors....

Keep in mind we likely wouldnt use it to its advertised capacity, just babying it along with implements we use behind a 7060. (23 or 25 foot blade plows, 22 foot 760 IH offset, maybe up to a 24 foot wing fold Krause offset)

Now a 7580 basically has a 7080 transmission hooked to (2) 7040 2 pinion equipped differentials, correct? do the 2 pinions hold up fine in a 4wd? I know a forum member showed pics of a hard pulling 8030 that had cut a groove around the carrier with the 2 pinion.

GM...you do what you want but we never overloaded our 7580 in my opinion. 9 shank chisel plow, 24 ft field cultivator, and an 18 ft tilloll. It looks like an absolute beast but looks can be deceiving. That tractor was the weakest sorriest excuse for an Allis we ever had on the farm...if the drive line already has slop in the one you are looking at be prepared to replace them all. You say low on the PD is out...be prepared to replace that as well as the torque limiter. I'm quite sure we replaced every hydraulic line on ours and without fail we would still get a leak somewhere. The 7580 motor is a different animal than your 7060.We could over work our 60 and I never feared it would grenade on me and it never has. The 7580 on the other hand we always tried to baby and without fail we couldn't keep bearings in the bottom of it....unfortunately the last incident involved driving it down the road at 2100 rpms and the crank broke and chucked a hole in the side of the block....we put two sets of bearings in it in a 6 year time period,new hinge pins,countless hydraulic lines,ring and pinion and a drop box in it..also dropped an injector tip down on the number 4 piston. So you can see why I would never own another 7580 if it were given to me...save yourself some time and money and just buy another 7060...you'll be happier in the long run

in think you did great! you'll have plenty of traction on those tires for years! go play with it awhile before deciding what you want to do with it and what you want to fix on it! you'll learn to love it better that way! (it's a mind thing), can't touch these under $6000 here!

You did good ,glad you screwed him down a bit,people always rate the tyres by the tread left ,thats not as important as the casing ,no cracks in them is the main thing. Have fun with it and enjoy yourself.

very few part-outs shameless, we are a no kill shelter so far when it comes to tractors. Now with combines, if its super tacky or a variable belt drive, it usually dies so others can live on. ;)

Looks great, you got into it for the right price.  I have always liked the look of the big articulated 4wd.  I am glad it's not in a savage yard, good to see the big orange live on.

Kcgrain, thanks for posting that.  I am still working on my 7580 but I know the tires are loaded.  It's the first one of these I have had.

Thanks for all the encouragement guys!

As far as rolling stock, luckily its completely dry, and looks like its been that way since new, no residue anywhere. cant believe there isnt a single bend or cut in the rims, all 8 are perfect in every way.
It isn't overly heavy either, cast centers on double bevel rims inside, and 9 bolt pressed steel duals outer.

If we need to add weight, I plan on using a common method guys use on New Ag Talk, make up a weight bracket using front end weights so you can put it on the 3 point hitch for quick and easy ballasting for drawbar applications.

Mark has it right, you have to have it heavy on the front static ( I have heard as much as 65/35) and as it pulls it will weight transfer to the back to achieve 50/50 split under load.