Potential Purchase: 7580 Black Belly, questions
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=104605
Printed Date: 16 May 2025 at 9:17pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Potential Purchase: 7580 Black Belly, questions
Posted By: GM Guy
Subject: Potential Purchase: 7580 Black Belly, questions
Date Posted: 10 Apr 2015 at 7:37pm
|
Hey all, Our friend the tractor broker is currently en route to our place as we speak with a 7580 black belly, (to stay the night, or the rest of its life, our choice. :) ) I had a few questions: The power director doesnt work in high, but holds fine in low. The oil levels were fine. What could be wrong? Any possibilites its just in the linkage? Second, it has a dipstick in the front diff, but it also has some lines going to and from the front diff. Is this a recirculating system like a JD 8x40-8x50 4wd? what year did they go to this setup? (our friend has a 7580 that he is keeping, and his does not have this) It bleeds back fuel something terrible, have to bleed it every time you start it. What is the line setup on these? Is it best to start from scratch and put all new on? It has the lift pump, IDK if its factory or field installed. (wasn't it 1981 they put the LP on factory?) Overall it sounds decent, and he wants less than 5K for it. it is long axle, 9 bolt duals, 3pt, PTO, and IIRC 3 remotes. Any input appreciated, thanks! ------------- Gleaner: the properly engineered and built combine. If you need parts for your Gleaner, we are parting out A's through L2's, so we may be able to help. |
Replies:
Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 10 Apr 2015 at 8:41pm
|
He is a broker and he is asking for less than 5? In theory he would be making money in that deal as well. Wonder how much be bought it for? Seems awful cheap for something that size. I'd be a little skeptical, but that's just me... ------------- '49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080 |
Posted By: SHAMELESS
Date Posted: 10 Apr 2015 at 9:21pm
| i'd sure jump on it! and wouldn't worry about the PD since it works on the low side unless you have a lot of road travel! my 7080 was good only on the high side, and didn't bother me disking with it that way! would have preferred it good on the low side tho as I don't have much road travel! can't go wrong with any 4x4 for $5000. yer a lucky bugger! black fuel...sounds like it had/has soybean fuel in it! may hafta clean out the fuel tank and lines good. |
Posted By: darrel in ND
Date Posted: 10 Apr 2015 at 9:40pm
| I'd go for it. Darrel |
Posted By: GM Guy
Date Posted: 10 Apr 2015 at 9:54pm
He is making money on the deal, but not tons. I think he bought it for under 3, (doubt under 2, but who knows) and is pricing it to us for slightly under 4 and is keeping the factory top link and quick hitch for his 7580. His has been a John Deere only guy for years, but we have talked him into keeping the 7580 and 8550 he picked up recently, so I think he caught the fever. :) We have bought more than 10 tractors from him, and what he says is just whatever the farmer told him, really nice guy that we have dealt with for years. Like a consignment sale, he only knows what the farmer told him, so if the farmer doesnt mention anything about a certain problem, he wouldnt know either. ------------- Gleaner: the properly engineered and built combine. If you need parts for your Gleaner, we are parting out A's through L2's, so we may be able to help. |
DSeries4 wrote:Posted By: GM Guy
Date Posted: 10 Apr 2015 at 9:56pm
Bleeds back fuel, shameless, no black fuel! :) How long did you run the 7080 with no low side? did you buy it that way? As long as we dont hurt anything running it as-is, we may buy it and run it. If it will grenade, we might let it pass. ------------- Gleaner: the properly engineered and built combine. If you need parts for your Gleaner, we are parting out A's through L2's, so we may be able to help. |
Posted By: GM Guy
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2015 at 2:35am
|
Bump. Our buddy wants us to make a decision. Another scenario has popped up, Mom offered to give me a low interest loan if I wanted it, as the folks aren't overly interested in it due to the wore out tires. IIRC, over a grand has been dumped in the A/C, new Sanden compressor with manufactured bracket (conversion kit I have seen before) new receiver dryer, etc. I am mostly looking for responses on the high side of the PD being out, that is what concerns me most. Thanks! ------------- Gleaner: the properly engineered and built combine. If you need parts for your Gleaner, we are parting out A's through L2's, so we may be able to help. |
Posted By: Adam Stratton
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2015 at 8:02am
| We run one and I would probably buy the one you are describing at that price. Ours has a lift pump on it and has ever since we got it. There is something different (im not an expert) about the advance on those bigger inj. pumps, and we had problems with ours getting messed up and not starting well several times. It might not be a bleeding issue, but an advance in the pump issue. Either one, once its running I dont think it hurts much. Check for slack in the drive lines. One drives the rear axle and one drives the hydraulics, so it is running all the time. They can get floppy and are $$$ to fix. The shifter linkage for high to low is different than the other tractors we have, so that could be part of the problem, but I doubt it. The cables are running a LONG way compared to other 7000 series tractors, so a little slack multiplied by that distance COULD make a difference, but I wouldnt bet lets on it. Look at the mph chart and see how often you would use the high side (other than roading it), and see how much it matters to you. I really have no idea how much fixing it right would cost, because we have never had to do one. With the way we run our 7580, I would probably not worry much about it if it was in my neck of the woods. |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2015 at 8:54am
| I don't know enough about the different scenerios on "high side not working"to advise what's going on and don't know how the tractor is built to know how hard it is to work on but,I know that working on the PD itself isn't a rocket science job.On my 8070 I had it split at the flywheel and could get right to it.Kinda heavy and some lifting equipment and extra help makes it easier.Must have a manual to check all the demensions in the "stack"for clearance between PD and trans but you can handle it especially if some fool hasn't been in there and shimmed it wrong to begin with. The PD itself is just 2 large clutch packs.It may have just lost a piston seal and fried the clutch.New parts aren't cheap but are available.At least there are less plates in the high side!LOL!The factory manual is very detailed and good as far as what and how.If you can remove the whole front end away from trans hsg it wouldn't be too bad but if you have to work inside frame rails it will be more "fun".You need to talk to DrAllis or someone to find out how to run pressure test before you do anything.If your not a gambling man with a sense of adventure,you may just want to pass. |
Posted By: SHAMELESS
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2015 at 11:58am
| Bob...I bought the 7080 that way, didn't know it was out when I bought it, and when I went to drive it home 40 miles...I was on the high side anyway! found out it didn't have a low side when I hooked up to my disk! so I tried the high side and it worked fine! used it that way for years! even when I was ripping with 7 shanks. 1st gear on the high side worked fine! plenty of power there! like I said...if you don't have a lot of road travel, the low side should last along time! shucks....with 8 tires hitting the ground and the weight, it should pull a lot that way unless you have extremely wide equipment! |
Posted By: SHAMELESS
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2015 at 12:09pm
| heck...if you think you need the tranny fixed right away, or if you can wait with it, maybe you'll find another one (whole) that you can change out later on! nothing wrong with having a parts unit! nowadays that's about what is needed no matter what color! buy a new combine and another new one for parts! new tractors and combines are designed now not to last like the older stuff did! |
Posted By: GM Guy
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2015 at 3:09pm
|
More info. He said the oil level was fine, but maybe he added some oil and it read full and he though all was well, irregardless, the transmission is a little bit below add. could this be part of the issue of no high on the PD? It is serial number 2866 which makes it a final year, 1981, which is allways a good thing, many updates are factory installed, including the lift pump. The top driveline that runs all the time for hydraulics does have a wobble to it (I assume the slip joint is wearing out) It runs true up front, but you look back into the frame, and it is wobbling. Plenty of hyd. leaks The PTO does kick on and off The Tires are 18.4x38. It does have one almost new BKT bias, one fairly new GY Dyna Torque II bias, one crappy 30 percent bias, and the other 5 are 5-15 percent Goodyear Dynatorque radials. No calcium, double bevel wheels on cast centers inside, and 9 bolt duals with reinforcing plates outside. a few small cracks around the upper hinge of the door, nothing broke loose yet, so should be easily repairable. no radio, needs a cab kit and a lower cushion. front window cracked from a hail storm, mirrors cracked as well. Overall, I am thinking that the problem is isolated to the PD clutch itself, so the trans. and drop box should be ok, and the engine sounds great, very little blowby, and it drove 35-40 miles to get here, so I am leaning toward buying it unless swayed otherwise. ------------- Gleaner: the properly engineered and built combine. If you need parts for your Gleaner, we are parting out A's through L2's, so we may be able to help. |
Posted By: Jwmac7060
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2015 at 3:14pm
| I owned a 7580 and personally would stay away from it even at 5 grand. Ours was a money pit and I love Allis tractors.... |
Posted By: GM Guy
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2015 at 7:16pm
Keep in mind we likely wouldnt use it to its advertised capacity, just babying it along with implements we use behind a 7060. (23 or 25 foot blade plows, 22 foot 760 IH offset, maybe up to a 24 foot wing fold Krause offset) Now a 7580 basically has a 7080 transmission hooked to (2) 7040 2 pinion equipped differentials, correct? do the 2 pinions hold up fine in a 4wd? I know a forum member showed pics of a hard pulling 8030 that had cut a groove around the carrier with the 2 pinion. ------------- Gleaner: the properly engineered and built combine. If you need parts for your Gleaner, we are parting out A's through L2's, so we may be able to help. |
Posted By: 427435
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2015 at 8:09pm
|
If you end up getting it, either have the injection pump set to the 4W-220 specs or operate the engine with a reduced throttle setting (2400 rpm full load or about 2500 rpm high idle). The engine will thank you. ------------- Mark B10 Allis, 917 Allis, 7116 Simplicity, 7790 Simplicity Diesel, GTH-L Simplicity Ignorance is curable-----stupidity is not. |
Posted By: Jwmac7060
Date Posted: 13 Apr 2015 at 8:30pm
| GM...you do what you want but we never overloaded our 7580 in my opinion. 9 shank chisel plow, 24 ft field cultivator, and an 18 ft tilloll. It looks like an absolute beast but looks can be deceiving. That tractor was the weakest sorriest excuse for an Allis we ever had on the farm...if the drive line already has slop in the one you are looking at be prepared to replace them all. You say low on the PD is out...be prepared to replace that as well as the torque limiter. I'm quite sure we replaced every hydraulic line on ours and without fail we would still get a leak somewhere. The 7580 motor is a different animal than your 7060.We could over work our 60 and I never feared it would grenade on me and it never has. The 7580 on the other hand we always tried to baby and without fail we couldn't keep bearings in the bottom of it....unfortunately the last incident involved driving it down the road at 2100 rpms and the crank broke and chucked a hole in the side of the block....we put two sets of bearings in it in a 6 year time period,new hinge pins,countless hydraulic lines,ring and pinion and a drop box in it..also dropped an injector tip down on the number 4 piston. So you can see why I would never own another 7580 if it were given to me...save yourself some time and money and just buy another 7060...you'll be happier in the long run |
Posted By: SHAMELESS
Date Posted: 14 Apr 2015 at 12:30am
| i'd love to hook up to my 2500 disk and have my head up in the clouds on that 7580! it would be so much fun to drive! kinda the feeling when ya first fell in love with a gal! |
Posted By: GM Guy
Date Posted: 15 Apr 2015 at 12:53am
http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/rborneman_08/media/My%20Allis%20Collection/100_3159_zpsrnvsc9f8.jpg.html" rel="nofollow"> http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/rborneman_08/media/My%20Allis%20Collection/100_3158_zpssm1mmoy9.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/rborneman_08/media/My%20Allis%20Collection/100_3157_zpspilptqym.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/rborneman_08/media/My%20Allis%20Collection/44e2226a-9e5f-4529-92f8-ff8c3feb0a4d_zpsbwdzuhht.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  ------------- Gleaner: the properly engineered and built combine. If you need parts for your Gleaner, we are parting out A's through L2's, so we may be able to help. |
Posted By: GM Guy
Date Posted: 15 Apr 2015 at 12:59am
|
So, what does everyone think of the new purchase? :) Cut the check today. Out here it isnt unheard of, but long axles are none too common on a 7580 from what I have seen. Unfortunately the QH and top link pictured dont go with the tractor, buddy is keeping them for his 7580. Its definitely a fixer upper, but for under 4 grand, and it drove here 30 miles from the POs place. The last pic shows the best tires. luckily all 8 rims are perfect, dont see that often! So, good decision or bad, its mine now. (kinda, need to get to work to pay off the loanshark, aka mom. :) ) ------------- Gleaner: the properly engineered and built combine. If you need parts for your Gleaner, we are parting out A's through L2's, so we may be able to help. |
Posted By: SHAMELESS
Date Posted: 15 Apr 2015 at 2:42am
| in think you did great! you'll have plenty of traction on those tires for years! go play with it awhile before deciding what you want to do with it and what you want to fix on it! you'll learn to love it better that way! (it's a mind thing), can't touch these under $6000 here! |
Posted By: SHAMELESS
Date Posted: 15 Apr 2015 at 2:43am
| I wanna drive it! |
Posted By: JPG AUSTRALIA
Date Posted: 15 Apr 2015 at 6:43am
| You did good ,glad you screwed him down a bit,people always rate the tyres by the tread left ,thats not as important as the casing ,no cracks in them is the main thing. Have fun with it and enjoy yourself. |
Posted By: SHAMELESS
Date Posted: 15 Apr 2015 at 8:06am
| if ya don't like it, you could probably part it out for bouts $15,000 more or less! |
Posted By: GM Guy
Date Posted: 15 Apr 2015 at 9:57am
|
very few part-outs shameless, we are a no kill shelter so far when it comes to tractors. Now with combines, if its super tacky or a variable belt drive, it usually dies so others can live on. ;) ------------- Gleaner: the properly engineered and built combine. If you need parts for your Gleaner, we are parting out A's through L2's, so we may be able to help. |
Posted By: JohnCO
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2015 at 1:52am
|
Looks like the twin of mine. Price was right too. I bought mine for $1900. but spend another $3,000 fixing it up, (drive shafts, (thanks to Redline), Turbo, Hydraulic pump parts, PTO drive shaft in rear end, etc. etc.) Don't use it much but fun to play with. ------------- "If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer" Allis Express participant |
Posted By: LB0442
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2015 at 8:48am
| Looks great, you got into it for the right price. I have always liked the look of the big articulated 4wd. I am glad it's not in a savage yard, good to see the big orange live on. |
Posted By: Kcgrain
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2015 at 10:23am
|
Check the tractor for fluid in the tires, everyone I have seen the tractors are loaded for bear, and not sure why its a small cu in engine that had power complaints so lets make it even heavier requiring more power!! Also I can tell you the tractors are unbalanced the way they come from the factory, doing field work they do not achieve a 50/50 split, and I believe thats is what causes the driveline and drop box problems, to get a proper balance you have to actually put fluid in the rear tires and leave it out of the front, which contradicts what I stated above, but you cant remove weight from the front, so thats your only choice, and if your tractor is empty, its way out of balance. We have 4 pad scales we used to balance ours, with 18.4-42 filled on the back it comes out almost exact for the front to back split, and the side to side is almost pefect. It made a huge difference in its ability in the field. Our Steiger was the opposite, that needed a huge rack of weights on the front to make the split right.
|
Posted By: LB0442
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2015 at 11:19am
| Kcgrain, thanks for posting that. I am still working on my 7580 but I know the tires are loaded. It's the first one of these I have had. |
Posted By: 427435
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2015 at 1:04pm
Sitting still on a scale, you should have more weight on the front axle. How much more depends on what field speed you're running at. Pulling hard at 4-4.5 mph, you should have 60-65% on the front axle when parked. Less if you're running faster. However, you are correct in that too much weight really degrades the tractor's performance. With empty duals (cast centers) and no weights, the 7580 weighs over 23,000 lbs already. ------------- Mark B10 Allis, 917 Allis, 7116 Simplicity, 7790 Simplicity Diesel, GTH-L Simplicity Ignorance is curable-----stupidity is not. |
Posted By: GM Guy
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2015 at 1:33pm
|
Thanks for all the encouragement guys! As far as rolling stock, luckily its completely dry, and looks like its been that way since new, no residue anywhere. cant believe there isnt a single bend or cut in the rims, all 8 are perfect in every way. It isn't overly heavy either, cast centers on double bevel rims inside, and 9 bolt pressed steel duals outer. If we need to add weight, I plan on using a common method guys use on New Ag Talk, make up a weight bracket using front end weights so you can put it on the 3 point hitch for quick and easy ballasting for drawbar applications. Mark has it right, you have to have it heavy on the front static ( I have heard as much as 65/35) and as it pulls it will weight transfer to the back to achieve 50/50 split under load. ------------- Gleaner: the properly engineered and built combine. If you need parts for your Gleaner, we are parting out A's through L2's, so we may be able to help. |
Posted By: GM Guy
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2015 at 1:36pm
Freudian slip? :) lol It is in a salvage yard technically, but we only junk out combines. :) We also do farm our ground, so it will be used on the farm. ------------- Gleaner: the properly engineered and built combine. If you need parts for your Gleaner, we are parting out A's through L2's, so we may be able to help. |
Posted By: GM Guy
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2015 at 1:40pm
Whats your serial number John? who knows, it could be! :) We picked up 2 L3 Gleaners 2 years back that are consecutive serial numbers and almost identically optioned, seperate locations about 50 miles apart. ------------- Gleaner: the properly engineered and built combine. If you need parts for your Gleaner, we are parting out A's through L2's, so we may be able to help. |
Posted By: Kcgrain
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2015 at 2:18pm
| I should have explained that better, but the tractor is not balanced , todays standards require a static (non moving) weight of 30% rear, 70% front,or even a 35/65 and in a pull they achieve a 50/50 split, when you put these tractors on a split scale they are way to heavy on the front and light on the rear, so they need more weight on the rear to get the split right, and we did it with a half tank of fuel, figuring that would be the average. Its best if you have a scale to do it on, becasue adding weight on something doesnt always add up the way you think because of leverage, ie it would take less weight on the 3pt hitch to give you a split, becasue your pulling off the front, and adding to the rear, where as fluid, pulls nothing off the front, just adds to the rear. |
Posted By: JohnCO
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2015 at 2:46pm
|
I don't have the SN here at home. We've had so much rain and snow the last couple days I would have to hike into the farm where the tractor is. Not complaining about the moisture, no, not one bit! lol
------------- "If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer" Allis Express participant |
Posted By: GM Guy
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2015 at 10:15pm
So they are closer to 80 percent on the front, and need some weight out back to put it back to proper? If so, that is pretty wild, and good to know, thank you! It would probably be best to do some cast on the inner centers or do the 3 point weight idea. No calcium around here, especially with radials. I know its quick, cheap, and effective, but I hate what it does to rims, and IMO radials work best dry. ------------- Gleaner: the properly engineered and built combine. If you need parts for your Gleaner, we are parting out A's through L2's, so we may be able to help. |
Posted By: Kcgrain
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2015 at 9:45am
| I cant tell you what they are, mine came with 18.4-38 loaded with fluid, the tractor sat way to low to the ground and looked stupid, so we put on 18.4-42 radials with DA duals, we had a set here off of an 8050 that had fluid in, and we put them on the rear inside than drove it up on the pads with the duals etc mounted, I was thinking we would need to pull the fluid out, but sitting on the scale the split was almost perfect, so we left it in, plus it pulls a 30' CaseIH 5500 SS which came from the rube goldberg school of design, and when you lift the planter it will remove all the weight from the rear of the tractor, thats why we put the fluid tires on the back of it, the split was just pure luck. They make what they call rim gaurd now, which is a non corrosive fluid, and was told by a tire dealer that fluid with no tubes causes no problems, its the fluid that leaks between the tube and the rim that causes the trouble, he claims if you pull a tire off of a tractor that had no tube in the rim is like brand new??? Also the debate between fluid, and cast weights could be argued for ever, I have no opinion really, but I know the manufacturesrs all want cast weights, but I believe that has more to do with them selling you pig iron for a grossly exagerated sum vs water and calcium, or rim gaurd. |
Posted By: JohnCO
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2015 at 10:18pm
|
GM guy, mine is SN 2134, 732 numbers older then yours. Still, they look very similar.
------------- "If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer" Allis Express participant |
Posted By: TREVMAN
Date Posted: 09 Apr 2017 at 2:34am
| How has your 7580 worked out for you? My Dad bought one in fall of 94, black belly, loved that thing, pulled strong, never over worked it. If it was treated like a 170 pto tractor, it did well. Pulled his 30 foot Concord airdrill no issues. Got good money at his auction. Saw it one more time a year after that at a stealership, broke my heart cause no one wanted it, too small...Trev. |
Posted By: GM Guy
Date Posted: 09 Apr 2017 at 9:47pm
|
@Trevman, So far so good, got to do a little tillage with the old girl last year and she needs alot of catching up on maintenance from previous owner neglect (seals, cables, oil lines, drivelines, tires, etc) but I really enjoy the smooth ride. I bought a distant Agco cousin this spring, a 2-180 White, and I will be swapping tires around, the White blew a inside tire on the way home from the auction, the 7580 had one new BKT on a outer rear dual (IMO a new tire on a 9 bolt dual with a near bald inside is a recipe for putting all the power through the dual and tearing the center of the rim out, so it needed removed anyhow), so I will be buying another new BKT and putting those two on the inside of the White (White's engine is no spring chicken, not concerned about 18.4x38s not being able to lay down all the power, plan to use the 2-180 like a 2-135), and finding some matching used Goodyears (GY allready on it. :( ) to put back in its place. As far as desperately needed repairs, the PTO driveline is getting alot of slack in its slip joint, and the rear main optional oil cooler started leaking, luckily at an easy to repair place. Steering hose leaking in the dash, needs a section of the exhaust manifold. needs luberfiner housing replaced due to crack. if I can find the complete spin on kit used in a yard I will go that way, but otherwise I will keep the OEM setup. Last year's major repair was all new battery cables. I made my own, and did it up right by using heat shrink to seal up some hydraulically crimped terminals (16 ton crimper should be adequate. :) ) I converted it to stud type batteries, so I can use group 31 stud types out of the truck. It took a little $ to get set up for making my own cables, but IMO it was worth it, and now I can do more in the future. I am proud to say that anything to do with the cables is made in USA, and the cable cutters are too. Unfortunately the hydraulic crimpers are chinese, but seem to be decent quality. ------------- Gleaner: the properly engineered and built combine. If you need parts for your Gleaner, we are parting out A's through L2's, so we may be able to help. |
Posted By: darrel in ND
Date Posted: 09 Apr 2017 at 10:04pm
| GM Guy, I assume that you set it up with four batteries. ? I need to do all of the batteries and cables thing with my 8550. With your crimping thing, are you going to make a business out of making battery cables for others, too. .? Darrel |
Posted By: TREVMAN
Date Posted: 09 Apr 2017 at 10:19pm
| There was one for sale near here yesterday, black belly, didnt look too bad. Asking $6000 ca. Post is deleted already, must have sold. Trev. |
Posted By: GM Guy
Date Posted: 10 Apr 2017 at 11:22pm
|
@ Darrel, I am setting it up for 2, and only ran it on 1 during the summer and it started well. I probably wont make up cables for profit...yet. might do it when winter rolls around. ------------- Gleaner: the properly engineered and built combine. If you need parts for your Gleaner, we are parting out A's through L2's, so we may be able to help. |
Posted By: shameless dude
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2017 at 12:26am
| I still have the rear end of my 7080 here if you need parts/pumps |
Posted By: Sledhead
Date Posted: 07 Jun 2017 at 12:26pm
| I have a 7580 listed for sale right now. Running unit. Just needs a valve cover gasket. Worked some fallow this spring with it and it worked great |