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Levibridge95 
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Location: Quakertown Pa
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 Topic: Pole barn build
Posted: 27 Nov 2019 at 4:55pm |
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I'm building a 18'×18' pole barn/tractor shed and I'm wondering if 4x6 pressure treated would work for the corner post instead of 6x6. Heard 6x6 might be overkill. What are y'all thoughts on it?
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DanWi
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Posted: 27 Nov 2019 at 5:12pm |
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So many things to consider height of shed, spacing of poles 18 ft you could go to 6 ft centers or 9 ft. Rafter design open sides, open ends, what kind of doors?
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Hubert (Ga)engine7
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Posted: 27 Nov 2019 at 6:45pm |
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Stay with the 6x6 and you won't be second guessing yourself. As DanWi mentioned - lots of factors enter into the equation.
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Just an old country boy saved by the grace of God.
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Levibridge95
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Posted: 27 Nov 2019 at 7:19pm |
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Ok. It's gonna have 9' wall height. One 16' garage door and metal sides and roof. I'm leaning towards 6x6 just wanted to get others advice.
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 27 Nov 2019 at 7:28pm |
Levi, Oh man we need pictures! Maybe will get me interested in building something too! I used all 4 x 6 posts in my sugarhouse build 20 years ago. That was 16 x 24 main room, with 16 x 12 back room, plus loft, and 36 x 10 lean to area. They worked fine. Still standing! Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 27 Nov 2019 at 8:45pm |
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we don't use solid posts.. splice 3 of 2 x 6 together so it ends up 4.5 x 5.5 ........ normally straighter... and you can stagger the top so the rafters set on / inbetween the layers.
Edited by steve(ill) - 27 Nov 2019 at 8:45pm
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JohnCO
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Posted: 28 Nov 2019 at 12:10am |
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If you use Steve's idea,make sure you use treated boards for the in the ground part. Also, about 5 minutes after you set the posts in concrete, you will realize it's not nearly big enough - just sayin...
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"If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer"
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DMiller
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Posted: 28 Nov 2019 at 5:34am |
 JohnCO wrote:
If you use Steve's idea,make sure you use treated boards for the in the ground part. Also, about 5 minutes after you set the posts in concrete, you will realize it's not nearly big enough - just sayin...
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Ain't that the truth!! Ours is 30x48 and should be 60x100 with all the stuff I try to stuff in there!!
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jaybmiller
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Posted: 28 Nov 2019 at 6:20am |
what steve-ill says !! laminated 2by6s with middle one shorter is GREAT !! go 10' high walls ! otherwise YOU have to cut down 10' boards to 9'....also tractor with ROPS will need ROPS lowered to get into shop.... don't ask HOW I KNOW that... extra height makes installing a gaage door opener possible...
of course it's too small...on the good side less room to store other people's stuff though ! consider installing a steel I-beam to split tractors ! lam enough 2by6s to make post with 'sides' to trap beam. add separate room for furnace and air compressor....
Jay
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chaskaduo
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Posted: 28 Nov 2019 at 7:35am |
Jay, "other people's stuff". Do you really mean "The Contractor's stuff"? 
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ocharry
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Posted: 28 Nov 2019 at 10:19am |
that was gona be my comment ,,but John beat me to it......it aint big enough,,,,i would lay it out on the ground just to see how small 18x18 is,,,,,not much room when you are putting stuff in there that takes it up quick
ocharry
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Ranse
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Posted: 28 Nov 2019 at 10:22am |
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X2 on the height. Make sure you build it tall enough to have enough headroom for the door you want to install. I'm going to have to buy a low headroom conversion kit before I can finish installing my door, and I probably will never be able to install an auto opener.
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Levibridge95
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Posted: 28 Nov 2019 at 4:13pm |
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Could get a side mount opener if you have enough side room.
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Levibridge95
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Posted: 28 Nov 2019 at 4:15pm |
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Would love to go bigger but I only have 1 acre which is my parents actually. And I'm putting it where a old shed was at.
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jaybmiller
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Posted: 28 Nov 2019 at 4:50pm |
since you can't go bigger ( footprint aka L x W) can you go higher ? My shop(40 x 72) has 14' walls then 5/12 pitched trusses. About half has a mezzanine, 10' off of the ground...allows for LOTS of storage and yeah about a 1/4 of it is 'contrator grade' materials.....
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LeonR2013
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Posted: 28 Nov 2019 at 4:57pm |
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Levi, you go with 5X5 yellow pine treated and rough sawn(sic) and you will find that they are almost as big as 6X6. I've used them in my shop and it survived 60 MPH winds Tues. night. Course it's built xxxx for stout. I also poured a pad and shot the plates to the floor, so I could keep the posts out of the soil. Worked for me. Leon
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Levibridge95
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Posted: 28 Nov 2019 at 4:58pm |
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Since someone brought it up earlier.i was thinking about it. I will probably do a full 10' wall instead of 9 like I was planning.
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Ted J
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Posted: 28 Nov 2019 at 5:03pm |
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My 36 x 72 is WAY too small. I'm gonna have to add on or build another. Definitely, if you can't go out, go up. AND, 2x6s are cheaper than a 6x6.
I staggered all 3 so that there were no seams next to each other. More strength.
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trace
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Posted: 28 Nov 2019 at 5:08pm |
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go 10' min ht. minimum with low headroom kit for door. that min sidewall ht. that will work. my wd will go in a 7' garage door. 6x6 all posts want it to last.
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Levibridge95
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Posted: 28 Nov 2019 at 8:06pm |
Ted J wrote:
My 36 x 72 is WAY too small. I'm gonna have to add on or build another. Definitely, if you can't go out, go up. AND, 2x6s are cheaper than a 6x6.
I staggered all 3 so that there were no seams next to each other. More strength.
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I definitely agree 2x6 are cheaper. 6x6 pt at lowes and HD are like $35 a piece
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Levibridge95
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Posted: 28 Nov 2019 at 9:02pm |
steve(ill) wrote:
we don't use solid posts.. splice 3 of 2 x 6 together so it ends up 4.5 x 5.5 ........ normally straighter... and you can stagger the top so the rafters set on / inbetween the layers.
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Steve i sent ya a pm.
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shameless dude
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Posted: 28 Nov 2019 at 9:14pm |
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my new cook shack is 10x18, it's about already to small...
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 28 Nov 2019 at 9:24pm |
Levi, I said I took two 2 x 6 x 12 ft and cut them to 5 and 7 ft ... 6 and 6 ft then used a 5-6-7 to build a post and put them in the ground 3 ft.... I think I actually cut the one 4.5 ft and 7.5 ft .... I think I acutally spliced them 4.5 then 7 f.5 ft, then 6 ft so the taller 2 x 6 part of the post was in the center........ here is a generic drawing, but I show the post with the 7.5 foot on the edge, not center.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Levibridge95
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Posted: 28 Nov 2019 at 9:28pm |
steve(ill) wrote:
Levi, I said I took two 2 x 6 x 12 ft and cut them to 5 and 7 ft ... 6 and 6 ft then used a 5-6-7 to build a post and put them in the ground 3 ft.... I think I actually cut the one 4.5 ft and 7.5 ft .... I think I acutally spliced them 4.5 then 7 f.5 ft, then 6 ft so the taller 2 x 6 part of the post was in the center........ here is a generic drawing, but I show the post with the 7.5 foot on the edge, not center. |
thanks steve. I believe I'll go that route. Did you use any adhesives or just screws and nails?
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 28 Nov 2019 at 9:34pm |
here is a better drawing, clearer, with the larger 7.5 ft 2 x 6 in the center of the post... This was 15 years ago.. No screws and driver back then.. All 16 penny coated sinkers... no glue.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 28 Nov 2019 at 9:37pm |
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when setting posts, I normally put a brick in the hole and set the post on that... Use a couple 2 x 4 as diagonal braces with stakes in the ground to hold it plumb, then pour concrete around it... that way the bottom of post is covered in concrete and not touching the dirt... good to bring concrete up a couple inches above the ground also , if your not going to pour a floor later
Edited by steve(ill) - 28 Nov 2019 at 9:38pm
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Levibridge95
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Posted: 28 Nov 2019 at 10:36pm |
jaybmiller wrote:
what steve-ill says !! laminated 2by6s with middle one shorter is GREAT !! go 10' high walls ! otherwise YOU have to cut down 10' boards to 9'....also tractor with ROPS will need ROPS lowered to get into shop.... don't ask HOW I KNOW that... extra height makes installing a gaage door opener possible...
of course it's too small...on the good side less room to store other people's stuff though ! consider installing a steel I-beam to split tractors ! lam enough 2by6s to make post with 'sides' to trap beam. add separate room for furnace and air compressor....
Jay
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I like the idea of a steel I beam. I probably will add a leanto onto the side of it later in the spring.
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Dakota Dave
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Posted: 29 Nov 2019 at 8:30am |
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I used 4x4 posts for my tractor shed many years ago. The shed is 12' wide 48' long attached as a lean to on my barn. My brother the builds pole buildings for a living helped me put it up I bought what he told me to. I only have 8' of clearance and my 190 won't fit but a WD45 fits fine. The bottoms of the posts have 1' of 2x6 nailed around a little pea gravle in the bottom set in 5' deep holes back fill with gravel it hasn't moved in 20 years. My tractor shed has a 18" thick class 5 gravel floor just put it in level it out and it packs down almost as hard as concrete. Oil drips just soak in if tractor need more than very minor maintance they get moved to the shop.
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Herb(GA)
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Posted: 29 Nov 2019 at 11:04am |
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Morton laminated three 2" boards staggered with pressure treated in the ground. Herb(GA)
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DMiller
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Posted: 29 Nov 2019 at 11:21am |
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Two friends decided on Red Iron buildings, post anchors set in foundations pours, 1/2" bolts are over two feet into the footers in their own column spots. One has two other such buildings, clear span 40' and solid as can get, one is concrete floor the other crushed stone and both over thirty years old. New one should last as well as these. I am considering as to cost where the Red Iron is near to same as Lumber, only insurance can be a bit higher against Diaphragming damage.
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