off color baler question

I have new Holland s68 baler that u pull with a 170 if that makes my question ok. I think I might be out of time a little because my bales are tight on one side and loose one the other. Does anyone know the right way to set the timing since the local dealer will not tell me how. They want . My to bring it in. Thanks guys... Aaron Phillips

Another possibility is the loose side may have lost one or more of the wedges along the side of the bale chamber. 
Really the only way to fix it is to buy a new Hesston beeline baler.  lol

There are tines on an arm that push the hay into the bale chamber. Perhaps they need adjusting to get the amount of hay equal in both sides of the chamber.

The the tines are all there

aaronac1 wrote: The the tines are all there

IIRC the tines are different length. You will need to move them around. IIRC the longest tines should be in the middle of the set.

Back in the day our NH 268 pulled by our wd45 created the straightest bales in the county. We'd bale circles around any other baler too.

I absolutely hated working for the neighbor driving their IH M with a JD banana maker behind it.

Don't forget to check the hay dog springs... 2 fingers that stick down into the bale chamber, just under the knotters.  They have a habit of rusting halfway and breaking after that...

If it is the uncut side of the bale you may be driving too fast or have too big of a windrow. We run a 315 NH in front of a 1034 stackliner bale wagon. It took forever for us to figure out how to make bales that the wagon will stack properly. I did not think the wagon would stack bales till we broke the PTO shaft and had the neighbor bring in a Hesston B line baler that always fills both sides even. I owned the New Holland so I set my mind to make it bale a stackable bale.
The tines that fill the chamber can affect how much hay is on each side of the bale. To put more hay on the uncut side of the bale move the tines to the right, I know that seems backwards but the tines push a bigger chunk of hay into the chamber and that tends to fill it equally on the cut and uncut side. Also driving speed and windrow size and plunger strokes per minute affect bale shape. Our baler will make and tie bales that tend to be too long on the cut side if we drive one gear too fast. Windrows that have multiple swaths raked together tend to make windrows that vary more in size over the length of the field. we try to avoid putting more than 2 mower widths together. In a light crop we run a faster gear and less plunger strokes. Im not sure if it would be OK on your older baler but running over pto speed is allowed on our baler. Don't overlook the condition and fit of the knife and plunger. If these are not up to snuff you will have problems. That is probably why the dealer wants the baler in the shop because all that stuff has to be right. Balers tends to get a little wear in a lot of places then adds to a bad experience. rw

Balers are like combines - they work best when run at full capacity. You need to double up the windrows, then you'll pack the bale chamber full with each plunger stroke. And make sure the hand-crank tensioners at the rear of the bale chamber are even. 

My 270 did this until I found the coil springs were broken on one side for the........ I think others are referring to them as hay dogs. I believe there is a set top and bottom.

the packing fingers need to be moved toget the hay allthe way to the other side of the bale chamber also if the windrows are light use ahigher gear to bring the ground speed up while maintianing the strokes per minet on the baler to keep the baler full  those balers made the best bales and were adjustable for every hay condition   also check knife clearance and sharpness that makes funney shaped bales