Not AC but need engine help guys!!!!

one more vote for the coil.  and unreliable condensers.  would send you a better built one from that era but,, uhh,, i need it.  can you locate one?  dunno why it's so hard to find a newer one that works, but it is.

I know you said you replaced the fuel line, and I'm assuming you mean from fuel pump to carb, but did you replace the line from the tank to the fuel pump??  I had a similar problem with a '35 Chev pickup and the fuel line was rusted real thin behind the battery box and it was partially flattened. I could get the old truck up to about 15 MPH and that was it. I replaced the whole fuel line and that fixed it.

Found it!!!! The new points I bought was manufactured without the spring on it causing the points to "float" at high rpms. If I could post pics I would show everyone a pic of it. Amazing something so small can cause so much stress. I have 11 days to get her back together and finished up before the wedding. (No pressure). Thanks for everyone's help, it means a lot to my fiancee and I. I know it isn't what we normally talk about on here it just this form has helped me with so many other issues on my tractors I figured what the hell, why not? So, thank you everyone.

Edited by AJ - 28 Aug 2012 at 6:46am

AJ wrote: I can't do that. If I did I wouldn't be getting married then. Besides you wouldn't want to pay the price she would want.

Hee hee... tough world when the contingency of a marriage contract revolves around the ressurection of a '49 Studebaker Champion...  Does she have a bass boat and hunting dog? 

What I didn't mention, and perhaps you already know... the Studebaker Champion is 6v positive ground...

But there's a chance that someone converted it to 8v, perhaps even reversed the polarity at some point.  From 6v to 8v was frequently only a screwdriver's twist of the voltage regulator screw and a tweak of the generator brush position... polarity reversal wasn't much more than swapping cables, flashing the generator/regulator, and replacing the radio (if it had one).  Most guys just ran the 6v bulbs, and replaced 'em more often.

If you're using a 12v battery on either a 6v or 8v system, you may wind up with an overheating ignition coil, so beware!


Edited by DaveKamp - 28 Aug 2012 at 6:59am

Very nice Michael. Hope ours turns out well. Sucks getting down to the wire and having to pull everything together at once. Lol

No worries

Edited by AJ - 28 Aug 2012 at 10:04am

when you adjusted the timing and nothing happened i suspect that was the red flag. im guessing the bearing for the distb shaft or the shaft end gear that runs off the cam is toast causing the no change in advancement or retard to the distributor and the rough run at anything higher than idle rpm. mark 0 tdc and rotate distb while running with timing light on the 0 tdc mark and observe. if the distb shaft has lateral movement then the points cannot open and close at precise fire time causing distortion at high rpm.