No power after battery swap.

Hey everyone!
So, before I start, I plan to take everything apart tomorrow and check the basics.. But I have some questions in case that doesn't work since I'd like to be able to solve this tomorrow and use the tractor. Just trying to get ahead of the issue if I can't solve it myself tomorrow.

I have a 1968 190XT II, gas engine. After sitting the last two or three months unused due to a flat tire (can you tell I'm a procrastinator?) I finally repaired the tire and went to start it, expecting it to be a little more difficult than normal due to just having sat this long. Previously, I've never had any issues starting her and she's always been great - even during freezing temps.

Today she wouldn't start up. Lots of cranking and turning, no successful start. I finally put a tester on the battery and it said it was weak, but not dead. 12.2v even with charging. Okay, I'll refurbish it, not a problem. I swapped the battery with a different one I had that has +25 cranking amps and is fully charged (constantly on a refurbisher that keeps it perfect).

Now she won't even admit there's electricity in her veins. It's as if there's no battery at all. Everything is tight as ever and I even took the cables back off and put them back on. Still nothing.
The only thing I can think of that might be an issue more than something basic is that while I was tightening the positive terminal the wrench touched frame for a split second and had some small sparks. I know, entirely my fault. Wrapped it in a dry rag and finished it up.

I checked both dash fuses and neither are blown. IF I caused an issue due to grounding out, what is the most likely thing to check and/or test? Again, I'll run through all the basics tomorrow.. But I gave up as it was getting dark and I was hungry. Just don't want to post this halfway through tomorrow if I'm still in the same spot.

TLDR: Swapped battery. Everything tight. No electric. No crank. No lights. Nothing.

Stupid question. Greenies? Corrosion, perhaps? I have not, yet. It was getting too dark to see much at all. I don't think this would entirely explain functioning and then not functioning though? Perhaps corrosion isn't what you mean, forgive me.

What happens if you put the other battery back in? Ive seen them have good voltage but not much amperage when they go bad. Put a meter on it, see what your voltage is with the key off, then what is it when you hit the starter button?

CTucker,

Like Steve mentioned, check the points. A little rubbing with a matchbook cover might be all it takes. It's kind of amazing how fast they can go from running fine to not at all!

Position engine so points are closed but twisting advance will open them. Leave cap off and stick rotor back on shaft. Take coil wire out of distributor cap and hold 3/8 in away from block.  With ignition on, twist rotor to open points. If all is well you should jump nice blue spark to block. Should jump 1/2 in gap. This will tell if points are working. May only need to rub them together to get em working.

Fantrum wrote: Hey everyone. Sorry for the delay, it's been a really long day (in a good way). First thing I checked this morning was the attempted start with a voltmeter attached and it dropped to almost nothing upon cranking... But it wasn't actually cranking. The refurbisher brought the old battery back to perfect overnight and I threw it back in and she started up with just 2-3 seconds of trying. Great results. I really appreciate everyone's pointers and help. Thank you all!

Nice!
Tell me more about your refurbisher please :-)