No power after battery swap.
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=184269
Printed Date: 06 Nov 2025 at 3:56pm
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Topic: No power after battery swap.
Posted By: Fantrum
Subject: No power after battery swap.
Date Posted: 29 Oct 2021 at 8:03pm
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Hey everyone! So, before I start, I plan to take everything apart tomorrow and check the basics.. But I have some questions in case that doesn't work since I'd like to be able to solve this tomorrow and use the tractor. Just trying to get ahead of the issue if I can't solve it myself tomorrow. I have a 1968 190XT II, gas engine. After sitting the last two or three months unused due to a flat tire (can you tell I'm a procrastinator?) I finally repaired the tire and went to start it, expecting it to be a little more difficult than normal due to just having sat this long. Previously, I've never had any issues starting her and she's always been great - even during freezing temps. Today she wouldn't start up. Lots of cranking and turning, no successful start. I finally put a tester on the battery and it said it was weak, but not dead. 12.2v even with charging. Okay, I'll refurbish it, not a problem. I swapped the battery with a different one I had that has +25 cranking amps and is fully charged (constantly on a refurbisher that keeps it perfect). Now she won't even admit there's electricity in her veins. It's as if there's no battery at all. Everything is tight as ever and I even took the cables back off and put them back on. Still nothing. The only thing I can think of that might be an issue more than something basic is that while I was tightening the positive terminal the wrench touched frame for a split second and had some small sparks. I know, entirely my fault. Wrapped it in a dry rag and finished it up. I checked both dash fuses and neither are blown. IF I caused an issue due to grounding out, what is the most likely thing to check and/or test? Again, I'll run through all the basics tomorrow.. But I gave up as it was getting dark and I was hungry. Just don't want to post this halfway through tomorrow if I'm still in the same spot. TLDR: Swapped battery. Everything tight. No electric. No crank. No lights. Nothing. |
Replies:
Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 29 Oct 2021 at 8:08pm
Have you checked the battery cables for the greenies? ------------- Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need! |
Posted By: Fantrum
Date Posted: 29 Oct 2021 at 8:13pm
| Stupid question. Greenies? Corrosion, perhaps? I have not, yet. It was getting too dark to see much at all. I don't think this would entirely explain functioning and then not functioning though? Perhaps corrosion isn't what you mean, forgive me. |
Posted By: Dnoym N. S. Can.
Date Posted: 29 Oct 2021 at 8:16pm
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what are you working on if - ground then i would check the ground wire and where it fasten to the tractor because it should of had a big spark when it touched frame HTH B:-) Dnoym
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Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 29 Oct 2021 at 8:16pm
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What happens if you put the other battery back in? Ive seen them have good voltage but not much amperage when they go bad. Put a meter on it, see what your voltage is with the key off, then what is it when you hit the starter button? ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 29 Oct 2021 at 8:24pm
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If the original battery was cranking good, but no start... WHY change the battery ? Either no fuel ( carb float stuck) or corroded distributor point contact. Dont know condition of the SECOND battery... maybe good... maybe bad connections... Setting batteries can get a "black film" on the terminals similar to corrosion... Maybe run a wire brush or sand paper over the terminals. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 29 Oct 2021 at 8:32pm
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AALWAYS, disconnect the ground cable from the battery FIRST, and replace the ground cable LAST. Best you put a test to the"new"battery. It may not show 12.5 + bolts anymore. Put the old one back in , clean the points and turn the gas on 😁 ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: Fantrum
Date Posted: 29 Oct 2021 at 8:37pm
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Dnoym, I'm not sure what you meant by your first line, but I will definitely check that wire tomorrow. Thanks! AC720Man, I definitely plan to try that tomorrow after it sits on the refurbisher all night. I've saved an incredible amount of batteries with a refurbisher so I'm sure this battery that really doesn't seem all that bad has hope. Thanks! Steve, Because the first battery was weak after cranking for a while and it wasn't charging up over 12.2v. I don't know what the tractor needs, but I like 12.5v for cars. My Geo Metro might start with 12.2v... But my truck definitely won't. Noted on your suggestions! Thanks! I'll check them all. The only one I'm not sure of is the carb float. Is there a way to accomplish this without taking the carb off?
Thanks again! |
Posted By: Fantrum
Date Posted: 29 Oct 2021 at 8:39pm
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CTucker, Sorry. Only saw your message after my last was posted. I do use proper steps for the cables, I just had them both connected at this point and did a stupid by tightening them both instead of doing the positive 100% first.
I'll check it. Thanks! |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 29 Oct 2021 at 9:09pm
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The only one I'm not sure of is the carb float. Is there a way to accomplish this without taking the carb off? you can shoot a little starting fluid in the intake and see if it FIRES... telling you that there is a gasoline feed problem.. Or you can pull a couple spark plugs and crank over with them grounded and see if you have SPARK, that verifys the ignition is OK... Start with one of them an eliminate potential problems... gas or ignition............... if you pull a couple plugs for test, you can put a spoon full of gas into each hole before you put the plug back in... If you get some FIRE after that, you prove something.
------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: IBWD MIke
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2021 at 7:40am
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Like Steve mentioned, check the points. A little rubbing with a matchbook cover might be all it takes. It's kind of amazing how fast they can go from running fine to not at all! |
Posted By: Les Kerf
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2021 at 8:36am
I have had batteries that read 12+ Volts but would not deliver amperage. The way to test this is to have a voltmeter attached while attempting to crank the engine; if the voltage drops WAY down but no cranking (or no lights, etc.) then the battery is bad. If the voltage stays up then you have a connectivity problem. |
Fantrum wrote:Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2021 at 8:52am
| Position engine so points are closed but twisting advance will open them. Leave cap off and stick rotor back on shaft. Take coil wire out of distributor cap and hold 3/8 in away from block. With ignition on, twist rotor to open points. If all is well you should jump nice blue spark to block. Should jump 1/2 in gap. This will tell if points are working. May only need to rub them together to get em working. |
Posted By: Fantrum
Date Posted: 30 Oct 2021 at 11:42pm
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Hey everyone. Sorry for the delay, it's been a really long day (in a good way). First thing I checked this morning was the attempted start with a voltmeter attached and it dropped to almost nothing upon cranking... But it wasn't actually cranking. The refurbisher brought the old battery back to perfect overnight and I threw it back in and she started up with just 2-3 seconds of trying. Great results. I really appreciate everyone's pointers and help. Thank you all! |
Posted By: Les Kerf
Date Posted: 31 Oct 2021 at 6:17am
Nice! Tell me more about your refurbisher please :-) |
Posted By: victoryallis
Date Posted: 31 Oct 2021 at 6:38am
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Jump it off a pickup see if that ump to get going, if you got it turning over good give it a sniff of bugger sugar see if it fires on that, if not throw a inline spark checker in. 5 minutes of work should narrow your problem down. ------------- 8030 and 8050MFWD, 7580, 3 6080's, 160, 7060, 175, heirloom D17, Deere 8760 |