Unofficial Allis Homepage
Forum Home Forum Home > Allis Chalmers > Farm Equipment
  New Posts New Posts
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login

Next project: 7060

 Post Reply Post Reply Page  123>
Author
Message
Orange Glow View Drop Down
Silver Level
Silver Level


Joined: 14 Feb 2018
Location: USA
Points: 148
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orange Glow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Next project: 7060
    Posted: 09 Dec 2018 at 2:10pm
Although my list of projects to work on never actually gets smaller, I have started in on this one. It is a 1978 (black belly) 7060 powershift that has been sitting untouched in a shed for the past 10-15 years, with mice, and has somewhere in the 5000-6000 hour range. It is my cousin’s, and I’m planning on purchasing it to run on a 11 row soybean planter, alongside a few John Deere’s and my other Allis’s. Here is the list I have come across so far:
New batteries
Cab interior kit
Fuel shut-off cable
All fluids and filters
Exhaust manifold
Mirrors
Fuel/water temp gauge
   Tires

I’m sure I’ll end up with more than that, but there’s a start.
I hooked up a battery from my WD45, and all the lights still work, along with the dash lights, and even the radio.
I did purchase two batteries yesterday for it, and I found out that if you put four batteries in, it would cost 10% of the entire tractor’s value!!
It has probably 1/3 tank of fuel on the left tank, but I haven’t checked the right one. I’m planning on draining that into buckets and putting fresh in. I also purchased some Stanadyne additive to help get some lube ran through it.
With the exhaust manifold, it is cracked. Is it a good idea to have it welded on, or just replace it?

Now for the tires! After a quick look around, it seems quite impossible to find a set of reasonably priced tires. The ones on it are likely the original duals, and probably the fronts also. The inside ones are better than the duals, but nothing impressive. I’m guessing I’ll need new front ones, but I’d like to find a set of good used Radials for the rears.
Would 20.8R38’s go on in place of the original 18.4/38’s?

Does anyone here have any recommendations on what to do to this tractor after sitting for so long?
Thanks in advance!!
Back to Top
Sponsored Links


Back to Top
Orange Glow View Drop Down
Silver Level
Silver Level


Joined: 14 Feb 2018
Location: USA
Points: 148
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orange Glow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Dec 2018 at 2:12pm
Back to Top
AC720Man View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 10 Oct 2016
Location: Shenandoah, Va
Points: 1153
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC720Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Dec 2018 at 2:49pm
That’s a good looking 7060. Glad your going to fix her up. With todays computerized and less reliable tractors, it makes more sense to me to put money in the older tractors. Neighbor had to have his green machine computer scanned because it wouldn’t start. Mechanic trip charge and a 10 minute diagnostic got him a bill for over $400. That didn’t include the repair. Any of the 3 sensors and a fuel pump could have been the issue. Turned out to be a $1,800 pump. Transmission also had to be tweaked by the laptop to correct a shifting issue, not sure how much that set him back. New tractors have nice features and are comfortable, but no way we can justify their price for our small farm. All AC to this day and plan to keep it that way until parts aren’t available. Look forward to seeing pictures when you get her cleaned And fixed up.
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
Back to Top
AC720Man View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 10 Oct 2016
Location: Shenandoah, Va
Points: 1153
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC720Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Dec 2018 at 2:57pm
I would suggest removing your fuel pump and have Ed rebuild it. Sitting for that long has probably got things pretty gummed up. Does your cousin remember why he parked it? Drain and clean all fuel lines for sure.
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
Back to Top
Orange Blood View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 29 Nov 2010
Location: ColoradoSprings
Points: 4007
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orange Blood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Dec 2018 at 3:13pm
It is entirely possible the pump is gummed, but if the fuel doesn't smell like latex house paint, install the batteries and crank it up.  More than likely it is just fine.  I would pre-oil it if you have that option, but as long as you don't rev it any after it starts for 30 seconds, it really isn't going to be that big of deal.  If it has indeed been sitting for 15 years, that would likely take it back to when the fuel was good, and would last 25 years, not this current crap.
Still on the farm:
WC C WD WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XT-D 190XT-LP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060 N7
Projects: 3-U UC 2-G B C 7-WC RC WD-LP WF D-17D D21 210
Back to Top
FREEDGUY View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 15 Apr 2017
Location: South West Mich
Points: 665
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FREEDGUY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Dec 2018 at 4:01pm
Does that tractor have a mechanical  fuel shut-off like an XT? Could the engine be spun with the starter(fuel off) to somewhat prime the oil system or would that not help at all? It is a nice looking tractor. To the OP,if you think those duals are bad, you should see ours LOL !!
Back to Top
Dan Hauter View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 06 Feb 2011
Location: Carlinville, IL
Points: 594
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dan Hauter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Dec 2018 at 5:13pm
I've logged a few hours in 7060's.  Still have the 2 Dad & I used to farm with.  A red belly built in November of 1977 and a black belly built in 1981.  Yes the engine can be turned over without opening the fuel shut off valve.  I've accidentally done it.  It's a manual shut off controlled by a pull out knob on the dash on the left side.  I still enjoy driving these tractors.  The 7000 series cab is actually a pretty good cab for the era.  Not anywhere near as fancy as the new tractors and definitely without all the gadgets.  And that's OK with me.  The stadium lights were a great addition.  Have you tried finding tires at a salvage yard?  
Back to Top
HD6GTOM View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 30 Nov 2009
Location: MADISON CO IA
Points: 3980
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HD6GTOM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Dec 2018 at 5:28pm
I spent 20+ years owning a farm tire repair/ new tire business. If that were mine I would put a set of Firestone radials on the inside rims with new heavy duty radial tubes and mount the 2 best tires on the duals. Firestone has 2 different radial tires. I just checked with 2 of my old tire suppliers, if I still owned my tire shop, 18.4RX38 Firestone's should cost you around $1100.00 each put on the tractor+ the price of a new tube.
Michlins are about $300.00 each higher.   18.4X38 firestone bias 10 ply were about $700.00 each + tube.

Edited by HD6GTOM - 09 Dec 2018 at 5:39pm
Back to Top
Michael V (NM) View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: NM
Points: 1405
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Michael V (NM) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Dec 2018 at 6:12pm
Unless them tires are just completely dry rotted or might pop any time,, I'd run em..there is no real bargains on tractor tires,,, ya jus hafta suck it up an get em...the 20.8's should be ok but do really need a wider rim..18.4's need 18 inch rim, 20.8's take a 18 inch I think...

2 batteries start my 7060 ok,, now really cold might need some help, but I don't use it in the winter..

I would do a complete new exhaust manifold..but I think ASAP has each section available...

A new cab interior will make it like a new one..if I ever get the cab top off mine again,, I will add dynomat, or similar for more noise control and insulation..
With the top off, clean the heat/AC cores,replace the heater hoses,make sure the heat valve works...I put a manual water cut off in one of the hoses on the engine..
Back to Top
DSeries4 View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Ontario, Canada
Points: 5407
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DSeries4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Dec 2018 at 6:28pm
Originally posted by AC720Man AC720Man wrote:

I would suggest removing your fuel pump and have Ed rebuild it. Sitting for that long has probably got things pretty gummed up. Does your cousin remember why he parked it? Drain and clean all fuel lines for sure.


I agree 100% with getting the pump done.  I would also take the rad out and get it flushed, cleaned and pressure tested - check the water pump for wear while you are at it.  Change ALL fluids as well.  Tires are expensive, but if you put new ones on, they will last longer than used tires.  I have never found any used tires that I would want to keep on any of my tractors long term.
'49 G, '54 WD45, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '85 6080
Back to Top
JayIN View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 18 Dec 2009
Location: SE/IN
Points: 1738
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JayIN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Dec 2018 at 6:44pm
Personally, I wouldnt spend anything on tires until I used it for about a year. Make sure it is worth the inbestment and not a money pit. Once you spend $2200-2500 on tires you are married to it. For better or worse. I wouldnt fix anything until it is broke. Good tractors. Enjoy!
sometimes I walk out to my shop and look around and think "Who's the idiot that owns this place?"
Back to Top
BKarpel View Drop Down
Silver Level
Silver Level
Avatar

Joined: 27 Apr 2012
Location: Collinsville IL
Points: 76
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BKarpel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Dec 2018 at 7:36pm
Seems odd to be parked.I would check the engine oil to make sure it doesn't have water. Try starting and see if it moves and hook up hydraulics. Send injectors when getting the pump checked.I bought a 210 on a sale, we tried it first and then started the repairs.Its been a project but we use it on the grain cart.
Back to Top
Unit3 View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 17 Oct 2009
Location: NC Iowa
Points: 4396
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Unit3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Dec 2018 at 7:51pm
Take the fuel tanks off and pressure wash them out. Algae can make a mess of new filters. I would also remove the roof cap and give it a pressure washing. A 7060 PS long axle is on my want list. Does yours come with Mexican Hats?
2-8070FWA PS/8050PS/7080/7045PS/200/D15-II/2-WD45/WD/3-WC/UC/C
Back to Top
SteveM C/IL View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Shelbyville IL
Points: 4415
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Dec 2018 at 9:34pm
the tires look good enough to work dry ground.Wouldn't spend anything there right off.Get it useable and see what you got. if it's not biodiesel,the age don't matter so much.
Back to Top
Orange Glow View Drop Down
Silver Level
Silver Level


Joined: 14 Feb 2018
Location: USA
Points: 148
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orange Glow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Dec 2018 at 10:14pm
My cousin has a large collection of Allis’s, in which I’ve been working on/ using/ purchasing over the past couple years. Besides this tractor, the rest were namely WC’s, WD’s, and 45’s, along with the beloved D-21. He originally purchased this tractor in the mid-1990’s, with plans of renting/farming a couple hundred acres. His father had 20 acres of farm ground already, and they farmed it as a ‘Retirement Farm’. Anyways, his father passed away in the early 2000’s, and he didn’t further the farming idea, since he was retirement age also, and put the 20 acres into CRP. After talking with him today, there was a time in 2010 or 2011 that he used it for to disk and seed the CRP in, so it has actually only been probably 7-8 years since it was used last. The tank looked pretty decent, and didn’t smell bad, but I’ll look into it more tomorrow.
As for the tires, the duals are low or maybe completely flat, and where it’s squashy on the bottom, the lugs look like they’ll fall off along with part of the sidewalls when it runs down the road. Another possibility that may work is to put the tires off of his D-21 on the duals, since he’s putting some 20.8’s on it. And as for the front ones, if they would hold air even though stalks and stubble, that would work for me, but if they keep getting poked through the cracks, it’ll only take a couple $60 tire repairs to pay new ones off.
Being that he did have it running good 7-8 years ago, and he did mention that he put an additive that’s supposed to keep it fresher, I’m hoping maybe the pump isn’t gummed up. My cousin is going to help me get it going.
I can’t wait to hear it run!
Back to Top
Orange Glow View Drop Down
Silver Level
Silver Level


Joined: 14 Feb 2018
Location: USA
Points: 148
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orange Glow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Dec 2018 at 6:07pm
Well, even with a couple days of messing with it, it’s not running yet.
I got the fuel drained and new put in, new fuel filter also. It did smoke while cranking towards the beginning, but it doesn’t really do much of that now, so I’m guessing it’s an air in the fuel problem. I pumped the primer good and many times, but it leaks fuel while pumping. Has anyone else had that be the problem, the primer letting air in through it?
It would fire with ether, but not enough to run.
Back to Top
Orange Blood View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 29 Nov 2010
Location: ColoradoSprings
Points: 4007
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orange Blood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Dec 2018 at 7:16pm
Originally posted by Orange Glow Orange Glow wrote:

Well, even with a couple days of messing with it, it’s not running yet.
I got the fuel drained and new put in, new fuel filter also. It did smoke while cranking towards the beginning, but it doesn’t really do much of that now, so I’m guessing it’s an air in the fuel problem. I pumped the primer good and many times, but it leaks fuel while pumping. Has anyone else had that be the problem, the primer letting air in through it?
It would fire with ether, but not enough to run.

Yep, primer rubber parts go bad often, buy an entire primer kit from AGCO for less than $50.00,  I think the last one I bought a couple years ago was in the 30s can't be sure, brain is old. Changing the primer takes like three minutes.  Primer can let in a lot of air, but if you didn't push fuel through your filter, and let all the air out at the back of the pump before you fired it, you likely have a bunch of air in the pump.  Only option now, is to fix the primer, and start from scratch.


Edited by Orange Blood - 11 Dec 2018 at 7:17pm
Still on the farm:
WC C WD WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XT-D 190XT-LP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060 N7
Projects: 3-U UC 2-G B C 7-WC RC WD-LP WF D-17D D21 210
Back to Top
Orange Glow View Drop Down
Silver Level
Silver Level


Joined: 14 Feb 2018
Location: USA
Points: 148
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orange Glow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec 2018 at 6:09pm
I ran to town, and got a new primer plunger. It was $45.
I did get the filter to fill up with the new primer, but no fuel to the injectors or return line.
So, now what is the best thing to do?
Keep priming and priming until fuel finally gets to the return line?
I know a injection pump rebuild is probably going to have to happen, but if it’s not getting fuel to it, than that won’t help yet.
Back to Top
Orange Blood View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 29 Nov 2010
Location: ColoradoSprings
Points: 4007
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orange Blood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec 2018 at 6:28pm
Don't count the injection pump out yet.

Here is your priming sequence for a dry injection pump, yes it can be done different, but this will work.

1.  Put a good battery charger on your batteries, and keep the charging while doing this, as batteries voltage drops, current goes up to do the same work, and current going up melts things, and causes starter failure if not corrected immediately.

2.  Get a helper, to crank the tractor.

3.  Crack ALL injector feed lines at the injector, a 1/4 turn will do.  If you aren't 150% comfortable working about moving fan blades and belts, DON'T touch injectors 1 and 2, leave them tight, they really wouldn't be necessary if the other four are bled.

4.  This is were there are multiple ways to prime the pump.  I like to first loosen the injection pump feed line, and prime until all bubbles are out of the leaking fuel, then tighten back up.

5.  Take the return line off the top of the pump.  While the fuel injection knob in the cab is "Out", have your buddy crank the tractor for 10 seconds while you pump the primer at the same time.  If no fuel, let the starter cool for a minute or two, then repeat, until fuel starts to appear at the return line.  Do not get the starter hot, check it every few cycles by touching the case with your hand, if it is more than warm, you need to stop for 10 minutes.  Be careful it could be hot.  Once fuel appears at the return line put the line back together and tighten.

6.  Once fuel is at the pump return line, open the throttle about half way, some pumps this doesn't matter, some it does.  Now repeat the cranking situation, until you start to see fuel squirt out at the injection line nuts.  If it is drizzling, or you see bubbles leave it loose.  You will know the difference when you see it.  When it starts to squirt, you will likely start to see smoke again out the exhaust.  Once you have a solid squirt that will jump about 3 feet from the injector, tighten it up, and get ready for it to run.  It doesn't matter which line you tighten first.  You will start to hear the engine "try" to run, and more smoke.

7.  Keep tightening injector nuts until you have three or four done, and then she should at that point be trying to run if not running already.

8.  If it does start to run, don't freak out, but close the throttle so it doesn't rev above idle, and continue tightening all the injector line nuts.

9.  Let it run at idle for a couple minutes, and if you have your air leaks fixed, the system is mostly primed, and any air that remains will work itself out, and shouldn't be a problem.


Be patient, this could take a while, if the pump is dry, if you still have fuel in the pump, and some in the lines, it won't take as long, but if the pump is working, and you have your line/air leaks fixed, it will come around.  I have had them fire in one or two cranking cycles, or take what seems like forever, probably not that long if I had been timing the actually cranking time, but not over cranking will save electrical problems.
 


Edited by Orange Blood - 12 Dec 2018 at 6:33pm
Still on the farm:
WC C WD WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XT-D 190XT-LP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060 N7
Projects: 3-U UC 2-G B C 7-WC RC WD-LP WF D-17D D21 210
Back to Top
AC720Man View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 10 Oct 2016
Location: Shenandoah, Va
Points: 1153
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC720Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec 2018 at 7:01pm
The above proceeded should work but I open the bleeder valve at the filter, use the primer to get fuel to that point and then close it. Open the timing cover on the pump, and use the primer once more until fuel runs out the window. Close the window and Then follow the above procedure. Not sure if the 7060 works this way, but its how I do it on my XT. 7060 is a lot newer and a 426 cu engine so it may have different procedure.
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
Back to Top
Orange Blood View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 29 Nov 2010
Location: ColoradoSprings
Points: 4007
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orange Blood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec 2018 at 7:17pm
Originally posted by AC720Man AC720Man wrote:

The above proceeded should work but I open the bleeder valve at the filter, use the primer to get fuel to that point and then close it. Open the timing cover on the pump, and use the primer once more until fuel runs out the window. Close the window and Then follow the above procedure. Not sure if the 7060 works this way, but its how I do it on my XT. 7060 is a lot newer and a 426 cu engine so it may have different procedure.

No that works too, but when you have dropped and looked for hours for those darned tiny timing window screws, you look for other options!!!! LOLLOLLOLLOLLOLLOLLOL
Still on the farm:
WC C WD WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XT-D 190XT-LP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060 N7
Projects: 3-U UC 2-G B C 7-WC RC WD-LP WF D-17D D21 210
Back to Top
allisrutledge View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 30 Mar 2010
Location: SurgoinsvilleTN
Points: 1000
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote allisrutledge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec 2018 at 7:54pm
This may be a silly question but is it warm in your shop when your trying to start it?
Allis Chalmers still exist in my mind and barns
Back to Top
Orange Glow View Drop Down
Silver Level
Silver Level


Joined: 14 Feb 2018
Location: USA
Points: 148
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orange Glow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec 2018 at 8:54pm
Thanks, Orange Blood!! I will do that tomorrow, and maybe, just maybe, it will solve the problem!!
I am prone to lose small pieces, and it is a dirt floor with lots of “stuff” around, so hopefully it works well enough to not take the plate off the injection pump.

The shop itself isn’t warm, but today was close to 40 degrees out. There isn’t any electricity there, so I have been running a generator to run the factory block heater, then a magnetic one on the other side under the intake, and I’ve been running the battery charger on it also almost the whole time. The whole engine was nice and warm after two or three hours.
If I can get it to run before too long, I’d have some nice days to change oils, and get it washed up nice! At least according to the forecast.

Back to Top
Lynn Marshall View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Dana, Iowa
Points: 1230
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lynn Marshall Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec 2018 at 9:44pm
Multiple things can be sticking in the injection pump and cause a fuel issue. Metering valve, delivery valve,or even a transfer pump problem could all cause problems in getting the engine to fire. Follow those priming directions, but if that doesn't work, you may have to pull the pump. The metering valve is fairly easy to get to,but it's not exactly for a beginner either. Hope you get her going.🚜
Back to Top
SteveM C/IL View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Shelbyville IL
Points: 4415
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec 2018 at 9:57pm
If you don't already know...ask for procedure before just pulling pump off.
Back to Top
Orange Glow View Drop Down
Silver Level
Silver Level


Joined: 14 Feb 2018
Location: USA
Points: 148
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orange Glow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Dec 2018 at 7:40am
I might as well ask for the pump- pulling procedure now! I’m hoping it will prime up good, but if it doesn’t, I’ll probably try and get the pump into town for a rebuild.
Thanks!!
Back to Top
Orange Blood View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 29 Nov 2010
Location: ColoradoSprings
Points: 4007
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orange Blood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Dec 2018 at 8:20am
Originally posted by allisrutledge allisrutledge wrote:

This may be a silly question but is it warm in your shop when your trying to start it?

This is a very good question, if it isn't in a heated shop, plug in the block heater for a couple of hours before you start trying to start it.  If the block is cold, it will make priming a whole lot harder, and it may never start even when you get the air out.
Still on the farm:
WC C WD WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XT-D 190XT-LP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060 N7
Projects: 3-U UC 2-G B C 7-WC RC WD-LP WF D-17D D21 210
Back to Top
Orange Glow View Drop Down
Silver Level
Silver Level


Joined: 14 Feb 2018
Location: USA
Points: 148
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orange Glow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Dec 2018 at 8:49am
That’s what I did, run the block heater on a generator for almost all morning and most of the afternoon. I actually was running two block heaters, the factory one, and a magnetic one.
Back to Top
injpumpEd View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Walnut IL
Points: 3225
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote injpumpEd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Dec 2018 at 8:55am
Odds are the metering valve at least is stuck and very likely the plungers are stuck too. The Roosa pumps don't like sitting in old fuel, especially modern fuel lol! I feel if it was going to work, it would have started squirting fuel by now. When they are stuck, I generally have to tap plungers out with a hammer and punch after teardown. I'd take the top cover off and see what it looks like inside. That will definitely give an idea on which direction to go. If it's nasty inside, do not force it to run like that, it may end up seizing the head. Then it gets a lot more pricey to fix. Good luck!
210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
Back to Top
Orange Glow View Drop Down
Silver Level
Silver Level


Joined: 14 Feb 2018
Location: USA
Points: 148
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orange Glow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Dec 2018 at 6:25pm
Well, the only conclusion I’ve come to today is that it’s not getting fuel to pump through the line to the injection pump. When hooked up correctly, it will not prime fuel through the filter. With the filter bypassed, it still will not pump fuel into the injection pump. We replaced one of the check valves (that was all the place had), without much change.
If the metering valve is stuck (or the plungers) on the injection pump is stuck, will that cause it not to be able to prime?
My last idea before removing the pump (or having the local diesel place come out) is to put a brand new entire hand primer on.
From what I’m seeing, it looks like the problem is like Ed said, in the injection pump.
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply Page  123>
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 11.10
Copyright ©2001-2017 Web Wiz Ltd.

This page was generated in 0.094 seconds.


Help Support the
Unofficial Allis Forum