Next project: 7060
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=156276
Printed Date: 25 Apr 2024 at 9:35pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Next project: 7060
Posted By: Orange Glow
Subject: Next project: 7060
Date Posted: 09 Dec 2018 at 2:10pm
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Although my list of projects to work on never actually gets smaller, I have started in on this one. It is a 1978 (black belly) 7060 powershift that has been sitting untouched in a shed for the past 10-15 years, with mice, and has somewhere in the 5000-6000 hour range. It is my cousin’s, and I’m planning on purchasing it to run on a 11 row soybean planter, alongside a few John Deere’s and my other Allis’s. Here is the list I have come across so far: New batteries Cab interior kit Fuel shut-off cable All fluids and filters Exhaust manifold Mirrors Fuel/water temp gauge Tires I’m sure I’ll end up with more than that, but there’s a start. I hooked up a battery from my WD45, and all the lights still work, along with the dash lights, and even the radio. I did purchase two batteries yesterday for it, and I found out that if you put four batteries in, it would cost 10% of the entire tractor’s value!! It has probably 1/3 tank of fuel on the left tank, but I haven’t checked the right one. I’m planning on draining that into buckets and putting fresh in. I also purchased some Stanadyne additive to help get some lube ran through it. With the exhaust manifold, it is cracked. Is it a good idea to have it welded on, or just replace it? Now for the tires! After a quick look around, it seems quite impossible to find a set of reasonably priced tires. The ones on it are likely the original duals, and probably the fronts also. The inside ones are better than the duals, but nothing impressive. I’m guessing I’ll need new front ones, but I’d like to find a set of good used Radials for the rears. Would 20.8R38’s go on in place of the original 18.4/38’s? Does anyone here have any recommendations on what to do to this tractor after sitting for so long? Thanks in advance!! |
Replies:
Posted By: Orange Glow
Date Posted: 09 Dec 2018 at 2:12pm
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Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 09 Dec 2018 at 2:49pm
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That’s a good looking 7060. Glad your going to fix her up. With todays computerized and less reliable tractors, it makes more sense to me to put money in the older tractors. Neighbor had to have his green machine computer scanned because it wouldn’t start. Mechanic trip charge and a 10 minute diagnostic got him a bill for over $400. That didn’t include the repair. Any of the 3 sensors and a fuel pump could have been the issue. Turned out to be a $1,800 pump. Transmission also had to be tweaked by the laptop to correct a shifting issue, not sure how much that set him back. New tractors have nice features and are comfortable, but no way we can justify their price for our small farm. All AC to this day and plan to keep it that way until parts aren’t available. Look forward to seeing pictures when you get her cleaned And fixed up. ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 09 Dec 2018 at 2:57pm
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I would suggest removing your fuel pump and have Ed rebuild it. Sitting for that long has probably got things pretty gummed up. Does your cousin remember why he parked it? Drain and clean all fuel lines for sure. ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: Orange Blood
Date Posted: 09 Dec 2018 at 3:13pm
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It is entirely possible the pump is gummed, but if the fuel doesn't smell like latex house paint, install the batteries and crank it up. More than likely it is just fine. I would pre-oil it if you have that option, but as long as you don't rev it any after it starts for 30 seconds, it really isn't going to be that big of deal. If it has indeed been sitting for 15 years, that would likely take it back to when the fuel was good, and would last 25 years, not this current crap. ------------- Still in use: HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060 Projects: 3-U UC 2-G 2-B 2-C CA 7-WC RC WDLP WF D14 D21 210 7045 N7 |
Posted By: FREEDGUY
Date Posted: 09 Dec 2018 at 4:01pm
| Does that tractor have a mechanical fuel shut-off like an XT? Could the engine be spun with the starter(fuel off) to somewhat prime the oil system or would that not help at all? It is a nice looking tractor. To the OP,if you think those duals are bad, you should see ours LOL !! |
Posted By: Dan Hauter
Date Posted: 09 Dec 2018 at 5:13pm
| I've logged a few hours in 7060's. Still have the 2 Dad & I used to farm with. A red belly built in November of 1977 and a black belly built in 1981. Yes the engine can be turned over without opening the fuel shut off valve. I've accidentally done it. It's a manual shut off controlled by a pull out knob on the dash on the left side. I still enjoy driving these tractors. The 7000 series cab is actually a pretty good cab for the era. Not anywhere near as fancy as the new tractors and definitely without all the gadgets. And that's OK with me. The stadium lights were a great addition. Have you tried finding tires at a salvage yard? |
Posted By: HD6GTOM
Date Posted: 09 Dec 2018 at 5:28pm
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I spent 20+ years owning a farm tire repair/ new tire business. If that were mine I would put a set of Firestone radials on the inside rims with new heavy duty radial tubes and mount the 2 best tires on the duals. Firestone has 2 different radial tires. I just checked with 2 of my old tire suppliers, if I still owned my tire shop, 18.4RX38 Firestone's should cost you around $1100.00 each put on the tractor+ the price of a new tube. Michlins are about $300.00 each higher. 18.4X38 firestone bias 10 ply were about $700.00 each + tube. |
Posted By: Michael V (NM)
Date Posted: 09 Dec 2018 at 6:12pm
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Unless them tires are just completely dry rotted or might pop any time,, I'd run em..there is no real bargains on tractor tires,,, ya jus hafta suck it up an get em...the 20.8's should be ok but do really need a wider rim..18.4's need 18 inch rim, 20.8's take a 18 inch I think... 2 batteries start my 7060 ok,, now really cold might need some help, but I don't use it in the winter.. I would do a complete new exhaust manifold..but I think ASAP has each section available... A new cab interior will make it like a new one..if I ever get the cab top off mine again,, I will add dynomat, or similar for more noise control and insulation.. With the top off, clean the heat/AC cores,replace the heater hoses,make sure the heat valve works...I put a manual water cut off in one of the hoses on the engine.. |
Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 09 Dec 2018 at 6:28pm
I agree 100% with getting the pump done. I would also take the rad out and get it flushed, cleaned and pressure tested - check the water pump for wear while you are at it. Change ALL fluids as well. Tires are expensive, but if you put new ones on, they will last longer than used tires. I have never found any used tires that I would want to keep on any of my tractors long term. ------------- '49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080 |
AC720Man wrote:Posted By: JayIN
Date Posted: 09 Dec 2018 at 6:44pm
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Personally, I wouldnt spend anything on tires until I used it for about a year. Make sure it is worth the inbestment and not a money pit. Once you spend $2200-2500 on tires you are married to it. For better or worse. I wouldnt fix anything until it is broke. Good tractors. Enjoy! ------------- sometimes I walk out to my shop and look around and think "Who's the idiot that owns this place?" |
Posted By: BKarpel
Date Posted: 09 Dec 2018 at 7:36pm
| Seems odd to be parked.I would check the engine oil to make sure it doesn't have water. Try starting and see if it moves and hook up hydraulics. Send injectors when getting the pump checked.I bought a 210 on a sale, we tried it first and then started the repairs.Its been a project but we use it on the grain cart. |
Posted By: Unit3
Date Posted: 09 Dec 2018 at 7:51pm
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Take the fuel tanks off and pressure wash them out. Algae can make a mess of new filters. I would also remove the roof cap and give it a pressure washing. A 7060 PS long axle is on my want list. Does yours come with Mexican Hats? ------------- 2-8070FWA PS/8050PS/7080/7045PS/200/D15-II/2-WD45/WD/3-WC/UC/C |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 09 Dec 2018 at 9:34pm
| the tires look good enough to work dry ground.Wouldn't spend anything there right off.Get it useable and see what you got. if it's not biodiesel,the age don't matter so much. |
Posted By: Orange Glow
Date Posted: 09 Dec 2018 at 10:14pm
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My cousin has a large collection of Allis’s, in which I’ve been working on/ using/ purchasing over the past couple years. Besides this tractor, the rest were namely WC’s, WD’s, and 45’s, along with the beloved D-21. He originally purchased this tractor in the mid-1990’s, with plans of renting/farming a couple hundred acres. His father had 20 acres of farm ground already, and they farmed it as a ‘Retirement Farm’. Anyways, his father passed away in the early 2000’s, and he didn’t further the farming idea, since he was retirement age also, and put the 20 acres into CRP. After talking with him today, there was a time in 2010 or 2011 that he used it for to disk and seed the CRP in, so it has actually only been probably 7-8 years since it was used last. The tank looked pretty decent, and didn’t smell bad, but I’ll look into it more tomorrow. As for the tires, the duals are low or maybe completely flat, and where it’s squashy on the bottom, the lugs look like they’ll fall off along with part of the sidewalls when it runs down the road. Another possibility that may work is to put the tires off of his D-21 on the duals, since he’s putting some 20.8’s on it. And as for the front ones, if they would hold air even though stalks and stubble, that would work for me, but if they keep getting poked through the cracks, it’ll only take a couple $60 tire repairs to pay new ones off. Being that he did have it running good 7-8 years ago, and he did mention that he put an additive that’s supposed to keep it fresher, I’m hoping maybe the pump isn’t gummed up. My cousin is going to help me get it going. I can’t wait to hear it run! |
Posted By: Orange Glow
Date Posted: 11 Dec 2018 at 6:07pm
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Well, even with a couple days of messing with it, it’s not running yet. I got the fuel drained and new put in, new fuel filter also. It did smoke while cranking towards the beginning, but it doesn’t really do much of that now, so I’m guessing it’s an air in the fuel problem. I pumped the primer good and many times, but it leaks fuel while pumping. Has anyone else had that be the problem, the primer letting air in through it? It would fire with ether, but not enough to run. |
Posted By: Orange Blood
Date Posted: 11 Dec 2018 at 7:16pm
Yep, primer rubber parts go bad often, buy an entire primer kit from AGCO for less than $50.00, I think the last one I bought a couple years ago was in the 30s can't be sure, brain is old. Changing the primer takes like three minutes. Primer can let in a lot of air, but if you didn't push fuel through your filter, and let all the air out at the back of the pump before you fired it, you likely have a bunch of air in the pump. Only option now, is to fix the primer, and start from scratch.
------------- Still in use: HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060 Projects: 3-U UC 2-G 2-B 2-C CA 7-WC RC WDLP WF D14 D21 210 7045 N7 |
Posted By: Orange Glow
Date Posted: 12 Dec 2018 at 6:09pm
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I ran to town, and got a new primer plunger. It was $45. I did get the filter to fill up with the new primer, but no fuel to the injectors or return line. So, now what is the best thing to do? Keep priming and priming until fuel finally gets to the return line? I know a injection pump rebuild is probably going to have to happen, but if it’s not getting fuel to it, than that won’t help yet. |
Posted By: Orange Blood
Date Posted: 12 Dec 2018 at 6:28pm
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Don't count the injection pump out yet. Here is your priming sequence for a dry injection pump, yes it can be done different, but this will work. 1. Put a good battery charger on your batteries, and keep the charging while doing this, as batteries voltage drops, current goes up to do the same work, and current going up melts things, and causes starter failure if not corrected immediately. 2. Get a helper, to crank the tractor. 3. Crack ALL injector feed lines at the injector, a 1/4 turn will do. If you aren't 150% comfortable working about moving fan blades and belts, DON'T touch injectors 1 and 2, leave them tight, they really wouldn't be necessary if the other four are bled. 4. This is were there are multiple ways to prime the pump. I like to first loosen the injection pump feed line, and prime until all bubbles are out of the leaking fuel, then tighten back up. 5. Take the return line off the top of the pump. While the fuel injection knob in the cab is "Out", have your buddy crank the tractor for 10 seconds while you pump the primer at the same time. If no fuel, let the starter cool for a minute or two, then repeat, until fuel starts to appear at the return line. Do not get the starter hot, check it every few cycles by touching the case with your hand, if it is more than warm, you need to stop for 10 minutes. Be careful it could be hot. Once fuel appears at the return line put the line back together and tighten. 6. Once fuel is at the pump return line, open the throttle about half way, some pumps this doesn't matter, some it does. Now repeat the cranking situation, until you start to see fuel squirt out at the injection line nuts. If it is drizzling, or you see bubbles leave it loose. You will know the difference when you see it. When it starts to squirt, you will likely start to see smoke again out the exhaust. Once you have a solid squirt that will jump about 3 feet from the injector, tighten it up, and get ready for it to run. It doesn't matter which line you tighten first. You will start to hear the engine "try" to run, and more smoke. 7. Keep tightening injector nuts until you have three or four done, and then she should at that point be trying to run if not running already. 8. If it does start to run, don't freak out, but close the throttle so it doesn't rev above idle, and continue tightening all the injector line nuts. 9. Let it run at idle for a couple minutes, and if you have your air leaks fixed, the system is mostly primed, and any air that remains will work itself out, and shouldn't be a problem. Be patient, this could take a while, if the pump is dry, if you still have fuel in the pump, and some in the lines, it won't take as long, but if the pump is working, and you have your line/air leaks fixed, it will come around. I have had them fire in one or two cranking cycles, or take what seems like forever, probably not that long if I had been timing the actually cranking time, but not over cranking will save electrical problems. ------------- Still in use: HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060 Projects: 3-U UC 2-G 2-B 2-C CA 7-WC RC WDLP WF D14 D21 210 7045 N7 |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 12 Dec 2018 at 7:01pm
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The above proceeded should work but I open the bleeder valve at the filter, use the primer to get fuel to that point and then close it. Open the timing cover on the pump, and use the primer once more until fuel runs out the window. Close the window and Then follow the above procedure. Not sure if the 7060 works this way, but its how I do it on my XT. 7060 is a lot newer and a 426 cu engine so it may have different procedure. ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: Orange Blood
Date Posted: 12 Dec 2018 at 7:17pm
No that works too, but when you have dropped and looked for hours for those darned tiny timing window screws, you look for other options!!!!  ------------- Still in use: HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060 Projects: 3-U UC 2-G 2-B 2-C CA 7-WC RC WDLP WF D14 D21 210 7045 N7 |
Posted By: allisrutledge
Date Posted: 12 Dec 2018 at 7:54pm
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This may be a silly question but is it warm in your shop when your trying to start it? ------------- Allis Chalmers still exist in my mind and barns |
Posted By: Orange Glow
Date Posted: 12 Dec 2018 at 8:54pm
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Thanks, Orange Blood!! I will do that tomorrow, and maybe, just maybe, it will solve the problem!! I am prone to lose small pieces, and it is a dirt floor with lots of “stuff” around, so hopefully it works well enough to not take the plate off the injection pump. The shop itself isn’t warm, but today was close to 40 degrees out. There isn’t any electricity there, so I have been running a generator to run the factory block heater, then a magnetic one on the other side under the intake, and I’ve been running the battery charger on it also almost the whole time. The whole engine was nice and warm after two or three hours. If I can get it to run before too long, I’d have some nice days to change oils, and get it washed up nice! At least according to the forecast. |
Posted By: Lynn Marshall
Date Posted: 12 Dec 2018 at 9:44pm
| Multiple things can be sticking in the injection pump and cause a fuel issue. Metering valve, delivery valve,or even a transfer pump problem could all cause problems in getting the engine to fire. Follow those priming directions, but if that doesn't work, you may have to pull the pump. The metering valve is fairly easy to get to,but it's not exactly for a beginner either. Hope you get her going.🚜 |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 12 Dec 2018 at 9:57pm
| If you don't already know...ask for procedure before just pulling pump off. |
Posted By: Orange Glow
Date Posted: 13 Dec 2018 at 7:40am
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I might as well ask for the pump- pulling procedure now! I’m hoping it will prime up good, but if it doesn’t, I’ll probably try and get the pump into town for a rebuild. Thanks!! |
Posted By: Orange Blood
Date Posted: 13 Dec 2018 at 8:20am
This is a very good question, if it isn't in a heated shop, plug in the block heater for a couple of hours before you start trying to start it. If the block is cold, it will make priming a whole lot harder, and it may never start even when you get the air out. ------------- Still in use: HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060 Projects: 3-U UC 2-G 2-B 2-C CA 7-WC RC WDLP WF D14 D21 210 7045 N7 |
Posted By: Orange Glow
Date Posted: 13 Dec 2018 at 8:49am
| That’s what I did, run the block heater on a generator for almost all morning and most of the afternoon. I actually was running two block heaters, the factory one, and a magnetic one. |
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 13 Dec 2018 at 8:55am
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Odds are the metering valve at least is stuck and very likely the plungers are stuck too. The Roosa pumps don't like sitting in old fuel, especially modern fuel lol! I feel if it was going to work, it would have started squirting fuel by now. When they are stuck, I generally have to tap plungers out with a hammer and punch after teardown. I'd take the top cover off and see what it looks like inside. That will definitely give an idea on which direction to go. If it's nasty inside, do not force it to run like that, it may end up seizing the head. Then it gets a lot more pricey to fix. Good luck! ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: Orange Glow
Date Posted: 13 Dec 2018 at 6:25pm
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Well, the only conclusion I’ve come to today is that it’s not getting fuel to pump through the line to the injection pump. When hooked up correctly, it will not prime fuel through the filter. With the filter bypassed, it still will not pump fuel into the injection pump. We replaced one of the check valves (that was all the place had), without much change. If the metering valve is stuck (or the plungers) on the injection pump is stuck, will that cause it not to be able to prime? My last idea before removing the pump (or having the local diesel place come out) is to put a brand new entire hand primer on. From what I’m seeing, it looks like the problem is like Ed said, in the injection pump. |
Posted By: ozarkfarmer01
Date Posted: 13 Dec 2018 at 9:17pm
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You might try Bobby Henard Tire Service for used rears. https://www.bobbyhenardtire.com/default.htm" rel="nofollow - https://www.bobbyhenardtire.com/default.htm |
Posted By: Orange Glow
Date Posted: 14 Dec 2018 at 12:53pm
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I’ll check into that for tires! Thanks!! It would be really nice to find a good used set of radial either 18.4-or 20.8x38 tires for a good price. I don’t know what it takes to ship a great big thing like a set of tires, but I see they’re in the MS, Alabama region, and I’m in Iowa. I’ll see what they usually do in a case like that. On another note, I’m ready to remove the injection pump this afternoon, and get it and probably the injectors cleaned and the pump rebuilt. |
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 14 Dec 2018 at 2:20pm
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take the top cover off pump first to look inside and see how it looks. If clean, you can always try running a hose from a clean fuel can right to the inlet of the injection pump, center rear. If it's working right, it should suck fuel out and start squirting out the loosened lines in short time. ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: FREEDGUY
Date Posted: 14 Dec 2018 at 5:31pm
Please get this thing RUNNING before you even THINK about rubber !! |
Posted By: Orange Glow
Date Posted: 14 Dec 2018 at 6:29pm
Just from looking in the timing plate, it was brown and gummy looking. I got the timing mark found, got the pump off and took everything into town for rebuild and cleaning, including all the lines except the large one from the tank, and also took the injectors in. It really ought to run after this, as that had to be the problem. It should be all done by Wednesday. While I have the alternator off, it’s going to another town to be checked out, and (hopefully not) rebuilt. The next job to do on it is to get the manifold off, and replace it. While it’s that far apart, I’m thinking the turbo ought to get checked out, and it’ll probably need $500-600 of work. I’m fairly confident that it will run well after all this, hopefully by next weekend. |
Posted By: Orange Glow
Date Posted: 14 Dec 2018 at 6:34pm
 Here is my problem with the tires. I’m not even sure that I’ll make it home before the duals fly apart, let alone in the field. |
Posted By: Lynn Marshall
Date Posted: 14 Dec 2018 at 7:15pm
| If that tractor still has a Niehoff alternator,and if it's bad, I wouldn't waste the time or money on it. Just get a Delco with a tach correcting pulley and be done with it. |
Posted By: Michael V (NM)
Date Posted: 14 Dec 2018 at 8:01pm
Yes...there is some gold in them Niehoff alternator somewhere..I just haven't found it,,, still got the one I took off... Look in the Shoup catalog for the Delco replacement,,it comes with the correct pully and wiring...$175'ish iirc |
Posted By: Orange Glow
Date Posted: 27 Dec 2018 at 10:18pm
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Well, I have the pump and injectors back from rebuild, and $2,200 less in my pocket!! They said everything was gummed up good, and the shut off cam and metering arm were broke off and laying in the pump. So, that left plenty of room for improvement, which means it has a good chance at running now!! I’ll try and get it put together tomorrow, and maybe try to start it again. The alternator checked out good, luckily. As soon as it’s running good, I’ll change the oil and bring it the five miles home, then work on the manifold and maybe the turbo as well. I have been trying to pick up all the filters for it, and Napa’s cab air filter was $93!! The outer engine air filter was $40, and I haven’t got the prices on the rest yet. |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 28 Dec 2018 at 8:28am
| Seems all filters are pricey today. We need em so just pay up and move on.... |
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 28 Dec 2018 at 8:28am
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WOW! $2200? Ouch! They only get that high in my shop when major components are needed, like a head & rotor, cam ring, or housing. Hope it runs good now! ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: JayIN
Date Posted: 28 Dec 2018 at 12:25pm
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good luck! Keep us posted! ------------- sometimes I walk out to my shop and look around and think "Who's the idiot that owns this place?" |
Posted By: Orange Glow
Date Posted: 28 Dec 2018 at 1:10pm
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They did have to replace the cam ring, and they had three pages of other stuff, coming to $1,200 parts, and around $900 labor. I got the pump and lines mounted, now for the injectors, then I’m going to replace the fan, alternator, and A/C belts. As long as I don’t freeze into place, that is!! Hopefully it runs good now, it better!!! |
Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 28 Dec 2018 at 1:16pm
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If you can get your hands on non-bio diesel all the more better ------------- -- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... - Wink I am a Russian Bot |
Posted By: Orange Glow
Date Posted: 28 Dec 2018 at 8:56pm
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We got the injectors in, now all that’s left is getting the lines hooked up, putting the hand primer on, putting the alternator back on, then it should be ready to crank. We usually don’t run the bio diesel, but I think it only has problems when it sits around. This tractor won’t sit around anymore now!! It pays to keep them moving. Hopefully tomorrow it’ll be warmer, and we can start it then. We would have almost got it today, but it was cold at 20 degrees this morning, and by late afternoon the windchill was -5! |
Posted By: AC7060IL
Date Posted: 30 Dec 2018 at 5:21am
| Check it’s engine air filter & external inlet pipe for bird nests. They love to build nest inside the pipe right above the filter canister. |
Posted By: Orange Glow
Date Posted: 02 Jan 2019 at 6:57pm
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Today it runs!!! It took a few tries of getting the air bubbles worked out, then it started and ran smoothly!! It revs good, and purrs like a kitten. I did replace the air filters, so that should be good. |
Posted By: Sagefarmer
Date Posted: 02 Jan 2019 at 7:01pm
| Congratulations. Keep pictures coming |
Posted By: skateboarder68
Date Posted: 02 Jan 2019 at 7:16pm
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Good job! That had to be a pretty great sound hearing it run! ------------- Orange & Silver still earnin their keep on the farm: R62, Series IV D17 nf, 185, 6080, 6080 fwa, 220, 1968 D21, 7045, DT240. |
Posted By: Orange Glow
Date Posted: 03 Jan 2019 at 5:47pm
  It is at its new home now!!! I drove it about five miles, then around the yard a few times. It runs perfectly, shifts smoothly, and is just a great tractor!! I just can’t hardly hold all the excitement!!! |
Posted By: Tim NH
Date Posted: 03 Jan 2019 at 6:35pm
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I'm glad it all worked out for you, that's a very nice looking tractor. . Tim ------------- 1950 WD 1959 D14 1955 WD45 1976 7000 B 207 |
Posted By: 1852 Moore Farm
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2019 at 8:17am
| Sometimes...you eat the bear. Congrats! |
Posted By: GM Guy
Date Posted: 07 Jan 2019 at 6:23pm
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Agco is actually cheaper on the cab air filter. Nice looking 7060! ------------- Gleaner: the properly engineered and built combine. If you need parts for your Gleaner, we are parting out A's through L2's, so we may be able to help. |
Posted By: Dan Hauter
Date Posted: 07 Jan 2019 at 6:27pm
| I have two 7060's. 1 red belly & 1 black belly. I'very really enjoyed reading your story & all the posts. Please let us know how it goes when you use your tractor. Congratulations on your progress to date & best of luck as you put your girl to work! |
Posted By: Orange Glow
Date Posted: 08 Jan 2019 at 6:49pm
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I got it cleaned up and waxed, changed the antifreeze and filter, and replaced the shut off cable so far. I also picked up a new cab kit, floor mat, water temp/ fuel gauge, and air conditioner hose from Agco. I still need to change the hydraulic oil and filters. It was leaking some oil out of the axle seals while it was sitting, but after driving it for awhile, it almost seems like it might have dried up. We do have two new radial 18.4R38’s, and a well used pair of Radials for the duals, to put on it. We also need to set the tires to 30” rows, and it looks like the duals are already there. They are 60” from the drawbar. The inside ones are 36”, and to make it perfect they would need to be 30” from the drawbar. We won’t be able to go all that, because they would rub on the cab. How hard is the removal of the factory duals? I have enjoyed running this tractor so far, and can’t wait to get it in the field this spring! Thanks for all the replies!! |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 08 Jan 2019 at 7:44pm
| Don't think you can quite get to 30 unless rubbing cab. My 8070 is close to 4 in over 60 I think. Still side dress corn ok...18.4's |
Posted By: darrel in ND
Date Posted: 09 Jan 2019 at 6:58am
| Congratulations on getting er going, Garrett. Makes me prouder n a peacock to see young folks such as yourself taking an interest in allis stuff. Speaking from experience, 7060's are AWESOME! Darrel |
Posted By: Orange Glow
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2019 at 9:20pm
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Steve, that’s good to know about still being able to side-dress. That’s what I was wondering, if they would be close enough to work good. I haven’t had a chance to measure, but I believe our John Deere 4255 is a similar width, except it doesn’t have the power adjust rims. It is as close as can get to the cab, and it works well for spraying and such. Thanks, Darrel!! I just started farming this year (my first out of school) and this 7060 will run the bean planter. My neighbor has a really nice heated shop, that my cousin has been working in, so he also let me bring in the 7060. I’ve mainly just been cleaning, brushing, and vacuuming so far, but I did get a couple pieces of the cab kit put on today. I removed the shields around the dash, and cleaned out a bunch of mice mess, and put a deal in to remove the odor. It seemed to work, and with the new foam, it ought to smell like it did in 1978!! There was some green foam on top of the cab, under the white part, and I’m trying to get some new stuff for it. The one local store didn’t have any, so I may need to get some online. It’s probably 3/4” thick, by 5” wide and as long as the cab is wide. There was three stacked, which would make for probably 18’ total. The new water temp/ fuel gauge works good as well!! |
Posted By: Orange Glow
Date Posted: 16 Jan 2019 at 9:40pm
  I’ve got the cab kit in, and put most of it all back together, except for the exhaust manifold and top of the cab. I got the back 2/3 of the manifold off, and the new one should be here tomorrow. The cracked piece came apart in halves. I got the gaskets for it, and am going to put new bolts in. After that’s done, I still need to change the hydraulic/transmission oils and filters, get the foam roll for the top, then get the new tires mounted. And at some point I need to work on the air conditioner, and figure out what it’s going to take to get it back to going. What do you guys recommend on those pumps? It never worked for my cousin, so at least since 1996, and I already got the hose to replace one from the compressor to the front by the radiator. I’ve seen various things about getting a conversion kit to a sendan or something like that, what is the benefits? I don’t even know what kind this is, but from reading about them, it’s probably an A-6 style, is that correct for a 1978 7060? It sounds likely the seals are probably shot in it, and who knows what else. And one of the last things, the seat. My cousin has most of another seat for it, and it’s in better condition, but it does have a worn spot or two as well. There’s no kits I’ve found for these, so is the only option to take it to an upholstery place to get fixed? Thanks!! |
Posted By: Orange Glow
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2019 at 6:25pm
| I got the new manifold on, and took it out for a ride!! It had much better power. That foam in the cab kit made a huge difference in noise, and now it feels like I’m driving it in 1978!! |
Posted By: fjdrill
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2019 at 7:30pm
| Apairinc has the sanden compresser replacement kit. The kit comes with the correct $55 belt. Do yourself a favor and also: replace all hoses, dryer, expansion valve. There is a thread on here about it. That is one NICE 7060!!!!!!! |
Posted By: Orange Glow
Date Posted: 19 Jan 2019 at 9:42am
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I might just have to get that kit. Thanks!! On another note, I am going to change the hydraulic oil, and I want to make sure I have the right filters before I drain it. Is the powershift filter a spin on? And according to NAPA, there’s on suction hydraulic filter, and one pressure filter? |
Posted By: Michael V (NM)
Date Posted: 19 Jan 2019 at 12:08pm
| Ya prolly already know this...when ya have the top off,clean, and clean some more on the AC and heater cores..also replace the heater hoses...the ones in there are 40+ years old..check the heater control valve, I put a second water cutoff in line on the engine too |
Posted By: Orange Glow
Date Posted: 19 Jan 2019 at 1:18pm
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I cleaned it up some, but I know it would be best to power wash it up there. I will also look into getting all new hoses. The heater does work, so that is good news. I am looking for a hammer strap, and I haven’t found many. One place I emailed has one, but he wants $240 for a used one. After seeing some of the other hammer straps for other tractors like John Deere’s and IH’s, some new ones are $61. Is the Allis Chalmers ones that hard to come by? |
Posted By: Michael V (NM)
Date Posted: 19 Jan 2019 at 7:28pm
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I got a hammerstrap from Wellington tractor in Wellington TX..don't remember how much it was.. I just used air to clean the AC and heater cores...I didn't want to pressure wash and get water where I didn't want,, mine was already converted to 134 freon, so all I did was put a new expansion valve, dryer, and a hose or 2...works great.. And, , while ya got the top off, put whatever kind music system in cause its gotta go in with the top off. |
Posted By: farmboy520
Date Posted: 21 Jan 2019 at 8:37am
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When I put 1 on my 7060, I got 1 from my Agco dealer. I don't remember how much it was but it looks like it was made from the same drawbar material as the drawbar on the tractor. ------------- On the farm: Agco Allis 9695, 7060, 7010, R66, Farmall H, and Farmall F20 (Great Grandpa's) |
Posted By: Orange Glow
Date Posted: 21 Jan 2019 at 5:36pm
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Today I took the 7060 in to town to get it’s new tires on, and had a thrill ride. I was slowing down on a little (very icy!) hill, and as I idled down, it started to slide sideways. I hit the clutch (a mistake), which will also brake the wheels apparently. It slid sideways, headed for the pond on one side of the road, so I touched the left brake, and got it to the other ditch. Luckily, there was a driveway just ahead, and we could drive it back onto the road. If the duals weren’t on, it probably would have rolled over, and if it were on the other side, it would be upside down in a pond right now. I believe it’s going to come home on the highway, nice and slow, and not on the gravel road!!! Besides that, I was looking for the jack bolts to remove the duals, and found a brand new hammerstrap at my cousin’s place!! You never know what treasures you’ll find over there!! I’ll get that top all cleaned up with an air compressor, and replace some hoses. The radio works good, and I think the speaker has a VW on it, and says it’s made in West Germany. |
Posted By: darrel in ND
Date Posted: 21 Jan 2019 at 6:02pm
| That would have been a scary ride. Glad you and the tractor are both OK. Just an FYI, pushing the clutch clear to the floor acts as a transmission brake, as you found out. Only time clutch should be mashed to the floor is when you are at a dead stop and shifting the range shifter. Sometimes, after putting it to the floor, if it won't shift, you may have to let the clutch up a little, then shift. darrel |
Posted By: Orange Glow
Date Posted: 23 Jan 2019 at 1:43pm
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I’ve ran into another problem, the tire shop adjusted the power adjust rims in, and they say it rubs on the steps. So, they were thinking about either cutting the step, (ouch!) or drilling a couple new holes to move the step ahead 1 1/2” or so. I never heard of this problem, what do you all recommend?? |
Posted By: farmboy520
Date Posted: 23 Jan 2019 at 2:03pm
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I would try to have them move the steps forward. I thought there was a second set of holes in the steps that attach to the tractor ------------- On the farm: Agco Allis 9695, 7060, 7010, R66, Farmall H, and Farmall F20 (Great Grandpa's) |
Posted By: Orange Glow
Date Posted: 08 Feb 2019 at 10:43pm
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It’s been a little while since I’ve reported, but I have still been doing stuff to it! The tire shop did get to move the steps ahead, and it works great now. I have since replaced the front tires with American Farmer 11.00-16’s, and replaced the front wheel bearings, which was just finished today. I ordered the expansion valve, and a receiver dryer for the A/C, and my other cousin is going to try and charge this system, if it looks good to him. I have 4 tiger led lights ready to go in for the stadium lights, but after pulling one off, the metal behind the rubber is rusted, and may need taken to the welder shop to make the rubber glare guard go back on. The lights are 24W hi/lo beam, (which won’t do much good, since it’s only wired for one). They didn’t have the replacements for just the lights for this tractor, they only wanted to get the entire assembly, so I ordered them for a John Deere 4255. My dad had purchased some for the Fender lights on his 4255 JD last year, and they looked Identical to the stadium lights, so that’s why I got them. The one looks promising, anyway. I still need to change the hydraulic oils, but I’m hoping to find a warmer day, if it ever comes! I took a picture today of it, and was looking at the pictures of it before I started, and it is coming along pretty well!  
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Posted By: Reindeer
Date Posted: 08 Feb 2019 at 11:06pm
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Sometimes hard to see progress when you look at your project daily. Good to go back to the beginning and compare to the starting point, so you can appreciate how much better thiings look. It's looking great! ------------- |
Posted By: exSW
Date Posted: 09 Feb 2019 at 8:28pm
| Nice tip on the led replacements. |
Posted By: darrel in ND
Date Posted: 10 Feb 2019 at 3:27pm
| You can be very proud of yourself, Garrett. You are taking on a big project and doing it right. It sure looks good. Darrel |
Posted By: BKarpel
Date Posted: 11 Feb 2019 at 9:53am
| Good job on the 7060, it looks real sharp. You have a enjoyable and reliable tractor. Wish I could find a treasure sitting in a barn that just needs a little work. I have a 210, I have been working on for 4 years to make it useable. These are projects we enjoy. Hope you keep posting pictures. |
Posted By: Orange Glow
Date Posted: 14 Feb 2019 at 9:28pm
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Thank you all for the nice replies!! I have really enjoyed getting this going. It sure feels great when a plan comes together!! Today I ran it some, then dropped some hydraulic oil. I drained the three plugs, (LH and RH differential, and the one in front of them) and changed the two filters. I think there was near 15 gallons so far between those, but I haven’t got the Powershift ones figured out. I haven’t messed with that filter, but apparently you need to take the bottom plate off, and drain one or two more plugs, and clean another screen after taking another little plate off with 6 bolts? And how many gallons should there be altogether? And you just fill at the two places, one in the cab, and one on the back? Thanks!! |
Posted By: WC7610
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2019 at 4:10pm
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nice tractor- Thanks for the pictures- followup with one in the field this spring! ------------- Thanks Most Bad Government has grown out of Too Much Government- Thomas Jefferson |
Posted By: VAfarmboy
Date Posted: 06 Mar 2019 at 12:57am
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That thing doesn't look like it ever sat out. I haven't seen a 7060 that nice since 1978 when I was 6 years old. |
Posted By: Orange Glow
Date Posted: 12 Mar 2019 at 10:00pm
I am surprised at how well it cleaned up, and am glad of it!! I don’t think it ever sat outside much, at least not in the past 23 years that my cousin owned it! He got it from I think the original owner, and he seemed to take care of it pretty well too.  Today I finished mounting a toolbox on it, on the bottom battery tray. It will swing out, and I think it should work good! I wanted it originally on the side of the frame, but the front tires wouldn’t clear it by much on the flat floor, let alone in a rough field. I also got the Precision Planting 20/20 monitor mounted, so it’s about ready to hook up to the planter. |
Posted By: exSW
Date Posted: 13 Mar 2019 at 7:13pm
| That tool box trick is cool. I may do that on my 7010. But it doesn't have a second tray. |
Posted By: Orange Glow
Date Posted: 20 May 2019 at 10:04pm
 Well, here’s a picture of it in the field! It’s planted about 200 acres, and it’s been working pretty well. The first day was spent working out some minor bugs, but after that it’s done the job well. One thing was I had to have an Agco guy come out and shim the hydraulic deal to 2,800 psi instead of 2,400 to lift the planter (the planter wheels are turned out front instead of the rear, and when the planter’s loaded with 1,200 pounds of beans, 1,100 pounds of weights, plus the planters own weight, it’s a load for any hydraulics) Then the power shift cable came loose, and wouldn’t shift, but once we figured out what it was, it didn’t take long to fix. I got the air conditioner working, after having it evacuated, charged, found another hose that leaked, replaced that, and charged it again. Now it works great! It’s been tough with all this rain. It would just get dried out by an afternoon, and then it would run good until about midnight or 1:00, and start raining again. Only another 140 acres to go now, though! |
Posted By: plummerscarin
Date Posted: 20 May 2019 at 10:21pm
| Forgive my ignorance. Why are there weights on the planter hitch? |
Posted By: Orange Glow
Date Posted: 20 May 2019 at 10:31pm
Oh, yeah, I forgot about those weights as well! I had only mentioned the suitcase ones on each row on the back.. Since the planter lift wheels are moved to the front (it was originally an 8 row 38” folding planter, now it’s a solid bar 11 row 19”) when it’s picked up, it’ll lift the hitch up. So even with those wheel weights on the tongue, it still takes weight off the tractor. And if you unhooked it while picked up, it would flip over backwards, even now. |