Newbie here with questions about a d-17

They are a nice size that will do a good job moving snow. They were made in four series and the last or series 4 is the more popular ones. The earlier ones were not three point but can be converted to three point. BTW welcome to the forum !! Others will chime in with more details. It was said you could farm 160 acres with a D17    Mark

Check for the usual popping out of 3rd gear problem, by putting it in 3rd, shift the hand lever from high to low, while going down a steep hill.  Or knock the throttle down to an idle, while in 3rd, going down the same hill.  Serial # is on the torque tube, left hand side, just behind the motor serial #, on the surface that is flat, and at about a  45º angle to the ground.  Pics would also help...

The easiest way to tell a serries 4 is to look for the hydraulic pump. A series 4 will have one on the right hand side of the torque tube just about where the loader tower is. It was added in place of the belt pullie on older tractors.
Also check that the power direct clutch is not slipping.   It should snap into both high and low range. I like to try and back up a hill while shifting from high to low I find that is a reasonable quick test.
The price range you listed would be good for a decent d17. Also check the loader over for signs of abuse and repairs.
Check for power steering and that it is working and not leaking in the middle front axle. The power steering can drip down right in the middle near the tyrod ends. Working power steering is a must with the loader. Also check the rear tires are standing straight if they had a heavy counter which damage the wheel bearings the wheels will tip out. I bought a d15 like that couldn't figure out why it looked funny until a friend looked at it and said that wheel bearing is shot.
Last check both pins that hold the front axle. The one in the front goes into the counter weight if the loader has been abused the front pin might be bent or loose and need repairs.
I think that covers all the odd things I have found with mine.
Welcome to the board. I can tell you my d17 has been on the farm here since the 60s and it is the hardest working tractor I have ever seen. Mine is a serries 1 which has done years of farm work running equipment rated well beyond its hp and it hasn't had any major motor work still runs great without any smoking.   It is an amazing tractor if you ask me one of the best ever made. Oh and mine is a serries 1.   

Oh one last thing cycle the loader and see how fast it works. Some loaders where run off the hydraulic pump built into the early d serries tractors they are low flow high pressure pumps and the loader would be really slow. Most loaders have a front mounted hydraulic pump but just make sure it moves at a speed you like.

Welcome to the board and good luck getting your new old tractor.   The d17 is a great machine.

I'd say $3000 is a really good price for a good IV. M0st I see are more like $5000

Try to check things out as best you can. see if the oil is milky or smells like gas. Look around for leaks anywhere. Check fluid levels and look for puddles under tractor.If you had a hydraulic pressure gage with an end to hook to the tractor you could see if pressure is 3000-3500 psi for a series I-III or about 1500-2000psi for a series IV

D 17 built for 10 years. there fore prices vary widely. Serial number location.
http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/0/1/18-allis-chalmers-d17.html

Serial number list to help you.
1957: 1001 (Series I)
1958: 4300 (Series I)
1959: 16500 (Series I)
1960: 28200 (Series I)
Final: 31625 (Series I)
1960: 32001 (Series II)
1961: 33100 (Series II)
1962: 38070 (Series II)
Final: 41540 (Series II)
1962: 42001 (Series III)
1963: 65001 (Series III)
1964: 70611 (Series III)
Final: 72768 (Series III)
1964: 75001 (Series IV)
1965: 77090 (Series IV)
1966: 80533 (Series IV)
1967: 86061 (Series IV)
Final: 89213 (Series IV)

You can get an idea of price by condition by checking out this site.

http://www.tractorhouse.com/list/list.aspx?Manu=ALLIS-CHALMERS&Mdltxt=D17




Al

Shift the power director in and out of each range. It should snap in and out. If it doesn't, you might be splitting the tractor down the road a bit to fix the clutch.

Guess the ground where you live has alot to do with what speed you travel. I personally find that my hay is soo thick I bale in fist gear and that second gear high range is as fast as I want to travel on my hills and fields. But yes check for gear jumpers it comes from people not shifting correctly.

I may be wrong but I believe 2 high is faster than 3 low.

170 is just a Series IV D17 with 100 series tins. I have one and love it. Has some improvements over the D17. Mine is gas also.