Newbie here with questions about a d-17
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=115473
Printed Date: 12 Aug 2025 at 7:42am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Newbie here with questions about a d-17
Posted By: Chevyguy76
Subject: Newbie here with questions about a d-17
Date Posted: 30 Nov 2015 at 5:42pm
|
Hey guys new to the forums, and new to Allis tractors. Other then being told they are great old tractors what can you tell me about the D-17 series. Pro's Con's what to look for what to stay away from. There is a decent D-17 coming up on a local auction. Runs great and sounds pretty peppy, wide front, allis loader, newer rubber and chains. Tractor is well used but looks to have been well maintained with surface rust n the loader and the fenders have some rust as well. The tractor is tight and would be a good one to fix up if I decided to go that way. Right now I am needing something to plow out my lane and move some firewood around. The guy running the auction place thinks it will go for 2500 -3000 Does this sound reasonable? Thanks guys Chevyguy |
Replies:
Posted By: B26240
Date Posted: 30 Nov 2015 at 6:13pm
| They are a nice size that will do a good job moving snow. They were made in four series and the last or series 4 is the more popular ones. The earlier ones were not three point but can be converted to three point. BTW welcome to the forum !! Others will chime in with more details. It was said you could farm 160 acres with a D17 Mark |
Posted By: HD6GTOM
Date Posted: 30 Nov 2015 at 6:18pm
| Post a serial number if it is not covered up by loader bracket or post a picture. That would help us to help you. |
Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 30 Nov 2015 at 6:26pm
| Check for the usual popping out of 3rd gear problem, by putting it in 3rd, shift the hand lever from high to low, while going down a steep hill. Or knock the throttle down to an idle, while in 3rd, going down the same hill. Serial # is on the torque tube, left hand side, just behind the motor serial #, on the surface that is flat, and at about a 45ยบ angle to the ground. Pics would also help... |
Posted By: Chevyguy76
Date Posted: 30 Nov 2015 at 7:22pm
|
Thanks guys its right by work I will swing by and take a couple of pics. I think it might be a 4 series s it has a three point, not the quick attach. |
Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 30 Nov 2015 at 8:57pm
|
The easiest way to tell a serries 4 is to look for the hydraulic pump. A series 4 will have one on the right hand side of the torque tube just about where the loader tower is. It was added in place of the belt pullie on older tractors. Also check that the power direct clutch is not slipping. It should snap into both high and low range. I like to try and back up a hill while shifting from high to low I find that is a reasonable quick test. The price range you listed would be good for a decent d17. Also check the loader over for signs of abuse and repairs. Check for power steering and that it is working and not leaking in the middle front axle. The power steering can drip down right in the middle near the tyrod ends. Working power steering is a must with the loader. Also check the rear tires are standing straight if they had a heavy counter which damage the wheel bearings the wheels will tip out. I bought a d15 like that couldn't figure out why it looked funny until a friend looked at it and said that wheel bearing is shot. Last check both pins that hold the front axle. The one in the front goes into the counter weight if the loader has been abused the front pin might be bent or loose and need repairs. I think that covers all the odd things I have found with mine. Welcome to the board. I can tell you my d17 has been on the farm here since the 60s and it is the hardest working tractor I have ever seen. Mine is a serries 1 which has done years of farm work running equipment rated well beyond its hp and it hasn't had any major motor work still runs great without any smoking. It is an amazing tractor if you ask me one of the best ever made. Oh and mine is a serries 1. Oh one last thing cycle the loader and see how fast it works. Some loaders where run off the hydraulic pump built into the early d serries tractors they are low flow high pressure pumps and the loader would be really slow. Most loaders have a front mounted hydraulic pump but just make sure it moves at a speed you like. Welcome to the board and good luck getting your new old tractor. The d17 is a great machine. |
Posted By: Travis2766
Date Posted: 02 Dec 2015 at 10:03pm
| I gave $3000 for my series iv a few months ago, has a new idea loader but no 3 point (wish it did) make sure the rear tires are ok otherwise you figure on spending another $800-$1000 for new tires/tubes/install |
Posted By: Allis dave
Date Posted: 03 Dec 2015 at 7:11am
|
I'd say $3000 is a really good price for a good IV. M0st I see are more like $5000 Try to check things out as best you can. see if the oil is milky or smells like gas. Look around for leaks anywhere. Check fluid levels and look for puddles under tractor.If you had a hydraulic pressure gage with an end to hook to the tractor you could see if pressure is 3000-3500 psi for a series I-III or about 1500-2000psi for a series IV |
Posted By: wekracer
Date Posted: 03 Dec 2015 at 7:58am
| If you are looking for an all around good chore tractor you cant do any better than a D17 Series IV. we Have 4 - Series IV's on our farm. the easiest way to tell a Series IV is the hydraulic controls are on the right hand side of the seat next to the fender as opposed to on the steering quadrant. And the lights are on the fenders as opposed to the side of the grill on the earlier ones. Also the hydraulic pump on the right hand torque tube as mentioned earlier. Good luck |
Posted By: alleyyooper
Date Posted: 03 Dec 2015 at 8:05am
|
D 17 built for 10 years. there fore prices vary widely. Serial number location. http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/0/1/18-allis-chalmers-d17.html Serial number list to help you. 1957: 1001 (Series I) 1958: 4300 (Series I) 1959: 16500 (Series I) 1960: 28200 (Series I) Final: 31625 (Series I) 1960: 32001 (Series II) 1961: 33100 (Series II) 1962: 38070 (Series II) Final: 41540 (Series II) 1962: 42001 (Series III) 1963: 65001 (Series III) 1964: 70611 (Series III) Final: 72768 (Series III) 1964: 75001 (Series IV) 1965: 77090 (Series IV) 1966: 80533 (Series IV) 1967: 86061 (Series IV) Final: 89213 (Series IV) You can get an idea of price by condition by checking out this site. http://www.tractorhouse.com/list/list.aspx?Manu=ALLIS-CHALMERS&Mdltxt=D17  Al
|
Posted By: Bill Long
Date Posted: 03 Dec 2015 at 11:40am
|
Welcome to the Forum Excellent advice given above. Pay close attention.The D-17 - series II was the biggest tractor I sold. It was a solid unit. I did not sell the Series III or the Series IV so I cannot comment on them, however, the D-17 series is one of the most dependable adaptable and lasting units I have seen. It can be an asset to your operation. Again listen closely to what is said above. Let us know what you do. Good Luck! Bill Long
|
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 03 Dec 2015 at 1:06pm
|
Shift the power director in and out of each range. It should snap in and out. If it doesn't, you might be splitting the tractor down the road a bit to fix the clutch. ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Posted By: Mattman
Date Posted: 03 Dec 2015 at 3:38pm
| The first thing I would do is drive the tractor down the steepest hill you can find in 3rd gear high or low range. If the tractor jumps out of gear.... It could be a costly repair. You could live with it though. 3rd gear was overused on these tractors. Otherwise a fantastic,simple, incredible tractor. I grew up having 3 of them. Good luck! |
Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 03 Dec 2015 at 3:47pm
| Guess the ground where you live has alot to do with what speed you travel. I personally find that my hay is soo thick I bale in fist gear and that second gear high range is as fast as I want to travel on my hills and fields. But yes check for gear jumpers it comes from people not shifting correctly. |
Posted By: Gary
Date Posted: 03 Dec 2015 at 4:45pm
|
Here are some links for you Gary Tractor Data - D-17 Specs http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/0/1/18-allis-chalmers-d17.html You Tube Videos of D-17 at work: All Crop 72 Combine https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BIEBqvRFE5c Plowing https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QqtxfcTyGrg Disking https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=okyNLzjQQ3E Field Cultivator https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AKAZjooBYxk |
Posted By: wekracer
Date Posted: 03 Dec 2015 at 8:49pm
| I may be wrong but I believe 2 high is faster than 3 low. |
Posted By: Chevyguy76
Date Posted: 10 Dec 2015 at 7:38pm
|
Thanks for all the info guys :) The D17 went for high threes so I did not get it. I did however find a nice 1 owner 170 with westendorf loader and quick attach bucket. She is a gasser and has 3400 hours and runs like a top. All the lights and factory gauges work. No major leaks just 40 plus year old tractor grime. Rear tires are bad but usable fronts are ok. Drove it home about 15 miles tonight after work. I will try to get some pics up in a day or two. Gave 4500 for it. Thanks again |
Posted By: BennyLumpkin
Date Posted: 10 Dec 2015 at 9:51pm
|
170 is just a Series IV D17 with 100 series tins. I have one and love it. Has some improvements over the D17. Mine is gas also. ------------- Central PA Allis Express 1934 WC254 1945 WF 1945 WC135755 1951 WD68085 1953 WD45-150217 1957 WD45D-230744D B110 |