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Strokendiesel002 
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 Topic: My First Tractor! D17... But which series?
Posted: 04 Apr 2019 at 9:41pm |
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Hi all!
I just purchased my first tractor! Stamped on the left side, just after of the engine is D17 4394... I've been reading and searching for 2 days, but for the life of me can't get a solid decision on which series it is. It's at my uncle's, so I don't have ready access to it yet. It has 1 hydraulics c port and the quick snap system. It does have the lever on the right side which I believe is high/low? It hasn't run in quite a few years, as the gas tank needed to be cleaned out and he never got around to it. I'm fairly competent with mechanics, so whatever I need to fix/replace... It is what it is. Once my boys are a little older I want to do a full resto on it with them for fun, but in the meantime want to get her up and running for bush hogging and rides !
Help with I'd?/
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Mikez
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Posted: 04 Apr 2019 at 9:55pm |
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That number says it's a 1958. Series 1. Great tractor you have, try to show pictures
Edited by Mikez - 04 Apr 2019 at 9:56pm
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Strokendiesel002
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Posted: 04 Apr 2019 at 10:10pm |
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Thank you sir!
I will most definitely be posting more pictures, but all I have at the moment are over the size limit, and just of the serial number, rear and the gear selector. I will take smaller sized pictures on Saturday and post here to follow up!
I'm really excited for this. Bush hogging and wagon rides will be her primary use, but I'm a glutton for punishment, so I intend to set it up with 3 point and am researching hydraulic upgrades. Any and all pointers are welcome!
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AaronSEIA
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Posted: 05 Apr 2019 at 5:49am |
Best hyd upgrade is a front mounted pump. Then you can mount a 4 or 5 gallon reservoir and run a Prince or Cross valve. AaronSEIA
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Strokendiesel002
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Posted: 05 Apr 2019 at 7:52am |
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Thank you Aaron!
I came across Dave's project last night and read the his thread, awesome info in there... My next search was going to be valve suggestions- so Prince and Cross is a great jumpstart! Any other thread suggestions? Seems like many that I've found ask how to add a remote for dual control and rather than suggesting a front pump and referencing a thread like Dave's (only one I've read to date; I'm sure there are more), it gets bogged down with how slow it's going to operate and the like.
Thank you!
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Allis dave
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Posted: 05 Apr 2019 at 7:57am |
For most things the original hydraulics are fine. It depends on what you plan to do with it. For picture resizing... If you have a picture saved on your computer, Right click the picture and choose "Edit" The picture will open in old Microsoft Paint program. There a button at the top that says resize. Select about 600 pixels for the horizontal width and the height will adjust automatically. 600 is a good display size.
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Strokendiesel002
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Posted: 05 Apr 2019 at 8:32am |
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Thanks AD!
Pics are in my phone though, I'll just change the settings and snap some new ones tomorrow.
I'd like to be able to put a loader up front if I come across a good deal(I'll probably start feverishly searching for this soon), along with a splitter. The loader function with be primarily for snow with bucket/ blade and forks for putting toys away when not in season
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AaronSEIA
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Posted: 05 Apr 2019 at 8:40am |
I've got a front pump on my series 2 for a loader. Works very well. Over in the Knowledge Base you'll find a thread of mine with info for a cheap front hub drive. I got my pump from Surplus Center for just over $200. They would also have the valves, hoses, reservoir, and everything else you'd need. You'd probably need a machine shop to fab the pump mount, but thats not a big deal. AaronSEIA
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Brian G. NY
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Posted: 05 Apr 2019 at 9:51am |
Here's how the complete front pump setup looks like.....from the A-C Manual.
I also bought a Ford Adaptor and shaft from ebay......which bolts right up to the front pulley just like Aaron's.
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Strokendiesel002
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Posted: 05 Apr 2019 at 10:40am |
Awesome!
Aaron - I'll be reading up on that shortly!
Brian - Thank you!!! I believe I read somewhere that Ford had a 3/4" and 1" option... do you recall which you chose?
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AaronSEIA
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Posted: 05 Apr 2019 at 11:07am |
The AC uses 3/4". Not sure it matters if you are starting from scratch. I think the hole in the pedestal would take a 1" shaft. As long as the hub adapter bolts up. The holes are 2 3/4" on center.
AaronSEIA
AaronSEIA
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Brian G. NY
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Posted: 05 Apr 2019 at 12:48pm |
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3/4"
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exSW
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Posted: 05 Apr 2019 at 1:05pm |
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Easiest way to resize pictures on your phone. Text it to yourself. Comes back sized.
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Ted J
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Posted: 05 Apr 2019 at 1:24pm |
This is the place to go look up if you want something about these tractors. It's a big help MOST of the time. Gives a wealth of knowledge about all makes of tractors. http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/0/1/18-allis-chalmers-d17.htmlLower left corner gives the serial numbers and years made and shows each series. HTHs
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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Ted J
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Posted: 05 Apr 2019 at 1:24pm |
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Oh yeah, WELCOME TO THE FORUM!!!
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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Joe(TX)
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Posted: 05 Apr 2019 at 6:32pm |
This drive adapter This shaft should work
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1970 190XT, 1973 200, 1962 D-19 Diesel, 1979 7010, 1957 WD45, 1950 WD, 1961 D17, Speed Patrol, D14, All crop 66 big bin, 180 diesel, 1970 170 diesel, FP80 forklift. Gleaner A
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Strokendiesel002
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Posted: 05 Apr 2019 at 7:28pm |
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Thank you guys!
Plan for tomorrow I to change all fluids and see if she wants to come back to life! I'll be sure to take pictures and report back!
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Strokendiesel002
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Posted: 05 Apr 2019 at 8:17pm |
Well, my uncle just pulled the plugs and there cylinder 4 is full of coolant... Hopefully just head gasket? Also drained the oil and there was probably an additional gallon of fluid in there that shouldn't have been Anyone know of a place near Pleasant Prairie WI that may have some parts laying on a shelf? Haha... But seriously, I'll drive a ways tomorrow morning lol  
Edited by Strokendiesel002 - 05 Apr 2019 at 8:19pm
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Strokendiesel002
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Posted: 06 Apr 2019 at 8:21pm |
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DrAllis
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Posted: 06 Apr 2019 at 8:27pm |
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That seat assembly makes me laugh !! So, instead of overhauling and repairing the excellent and original suspension, we graft on a piece-o-crap setup like that !! Whoo Hoo !!
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Strokendiesel002
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Posted: 06 Apr 2019 at 8:31pm |
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Well, Cylinder 4 forward pushrod is bent and even with the head removed, she ain't turning by hand. Gonna take the head to the shop for a fresh up. May try to put it into gear and move it back and forth a bit to see if it'll budge. Otherwise I'll be dropping the pan, unbolting the rods and trying to work them out for a honing... Unless anyone has a better suggestion?
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Strokendiesel002
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Posted: 06 Apr 2019 at 8:34pm |
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Dr - yeah, I noticed that it doesn't look like most of the D17's I've seen... Gonna be working on that after I get her up and running
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BillinAlberta
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Posted: 06 Apr 2019 at 8:38pm |
 Strokendiesel002 wrote:
Well, Cylinder 4 forward pushrod is bent and even with the head removed, she ain't turning by hand. Gonna take the head to the shop for a fresh up. May try to put it into gear and move it back and forth a bit to see if it'll budge. Otherwise I'll be dropping the pan, unbolting the rods and trying to work them out for a honing... Unless anyone has a better suggestion? |
Be very careful.Many connecting rods have been bent this way.
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Strokendiesel002
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Posted: 06 Apr 2019 at 8:48pm |
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Thank you BA, I most certainly will be gentle, picking back and forth by hand, unless there's a better way?
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DanD
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Posted: 06 Apr 2019 at 11:21pm |
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You could push a sleeve up out of the block turning the crank with stuck pistons and no head on but it's probably what you'll be doing anyway.
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Strokendiesel002
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Posted: 07 Apr 2019 at 12:44am |
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I suppose that's better than bending a connecting rod :)
I normally wouldn't hesitate to tear something all the way apart, but I was hoping it could wait a few years until my boys are old enough to do a complete resto with me. We'll find out what happens next weekend. I don't think I'm getting to it tomorrow... Later today and this week is pretty well jammed with work.
I suppose it's time to stop shopping for parts and go to sleep.
Thank you everyone for following along and sharing your thoughts/ knowledge!
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AaronSEIA
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Posted: 07 Apr 2019 at 7:25am |
Put a 50/50 mix of acetone and atf in the cylinders and wait a long time. Might get lucky and have them loosen up. AaronSEIA
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tractorboy
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Posted: 07 Apr 2019 at 8:16am |
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Just got my 58 d-17 going after a complete rebuild, Like Aaron says 50/50 mix of acetone & ATF willbreah it loose. It worked for me on a CA that sat outside 25yrs !! Congrats on your new tractor !!! keith so, va,
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Strokendiesel002
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Posted: 07 Apr 2019 at 9:27am |
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Thank you guys! I'm going to try and get over to it to fill it up today!
Maybe I'll give her a go next weekend then.
Would you fill the crank with this mix or kerosene to try and clean it/ break free?
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DrAllis
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Posted: 07 Apr 2019 at 10:54am |
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On top of each piston. That's where it is "stuck".
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