Best hyd upgrade is a front mounted pump.  Then you can mount a 4 or 5 gallon reservoir and run a Prince or Cross valve.

AaronSEIA

 

For picture resizing...

If you have a picture saved on your computer,

Right click the picture and choose "Edit"

The picture will open in old Microsoft Paint program.

There a button at the top that says resize.

Select about 600 pixels for the horizontal width and the height will adjust automatically.

600 is a good display size.

 

I've got a front pump on my series 2 for a loader.  Works very well.  Over in the Knowledge Base you'll find a thread of mine with info for a cheap front hub drive.  I got my pump from Surplus Center for just over $200.  They would also have the valves, hoses, reservoir, and everything else you'd need.  You'd probably need a machine shop to fab the pump mount, but thats not a big deal.

AaronSEIA

Here's how the complete front pump setup looks like.....from the A-C Manual.

I also bought a Ford Adaptor and shaft from ebay......which bolts right up to the

front pulley just like Aaron's.

Aaron - I'll be reading up on that shortly!

Brian - Thank you!!! I believe I read somewhere that Ford had a 3/4" and 1" option... do you recall which you chose?

The AC uses 3/4".  Not sure it matters if you are starting from scratch.  I think the hole in the pedestal would take a 1" shaft.  As long as the hub adapter bolts up.  The holes are 2 3/4" on center.

AaronSEIA

AaronSEIA

http://www.waltstractors.com/acatalog/UF83780----Ford-Tractors--1953-1964---Adaptor-Hub---Replaces-54C2055-120070.html#SID=18215" rel="nofollow - http://www.waltstractors.com/acatalog/UF83780----Ford-Tractors--1953-1964---Adaptor-Hub---Replaces-54C2055-120070.html#SID=18215

This shaft should work

http://www.waltstractors.com/acatalog/UF83880----Drive-Shaft--13--Long--Replaces-194354-120080.html#SID=18215" rel="nofollow - http://www.waltstractors.com/acatalog/UF83880----Drive-Shaft--13--Long--Replaces-194354-120080.html#SID=18215

 

Be very careful.Many connecting rods have been bent this way.

Put a 50/50 mix of acetone and atf in the cylinders and wait a long time.  Might get lucky and have them loosen up.

AaronSEIA

Good luck on your rebuild.

Regards,

 Chris

 Great pictures! Thanks for sharing. Your making some memories with them and the Allis tractor too! Glad you got the tractor working!

Regards,

 Chris

( I could use a loader tractor some days too! )

I like the picture of the Ford assisting getting the loader in place!

I have a 500 loader on my series II D-17.  Dealer installed it in 1972.  

Great loaders.  

So long since I worked on them I won't try to give you any advice on how to rebuild cause there is just too much newer methods and equipment out there.  

We all wish you the very best.  Keep us posted as to progress

Good Luck!

Bill Long

Well, if what I described sounds like it's running within specs, then I'm happy, I will try to get some footage and post a link, as that will be the best way for those who know what these should do to say "leave it be" or "you've got more work"

One thing I though strange is that the lift cylinders wont pick the front of the tractor up off the ground, but the tilt cylinders will if I "roll" the bucket?

That much exposed rod doesn't necessarily mean your cylinders aren't bottomed-out... you could verify by curling bucket up, and going boom full down, and see if they get close enough to stall the pump against your check valve, and then look-see how much cylinder extension is still visible.

Flattening face of the bucket against the ground isn't a problem, just realize that the blade of the bucket can damage front tires if you're not careful. 

When you're stuck good, spinning both back wheels, flat-face the bucket to the ground, and curl up, to push you backwards out of a mire.

My gut feeling is that your pressure relief valve is bypassing at too low a pressure, which is why your hydraulics are sluggish.  Without knowing the history of your loader's valve, I wouldn't be able to venture WHY, but it might actually be stuck open partially, and bypassing flow always.  Take a wrench to it, with a catch pan under, and carefully remove the check valve section, clean it out good, reassemble and try again.  Also... your hydraulic fluid may be an incorrect type or weight for this circumstance, and on cold days, not flowing from pickup into pump very well.  Dirt in a pickup screen, or debris in a valve section, in a hose, tee, or even in a cylinder will cause bad things to happen where they should not.

Contrary to what the 'good book' says, PLUMBING is the Root of all Evil...

Do you have enough reservoir? It sounds like you could be running out of oil.

Brian may be on the right path here... and here's a little info that might help:

When a hydraulic system is a little low, or a little high, it will suffer some very confusing maladies... and one of the prevalent, is aeration... air being drawn in, and mixed with the oil... aka... 'frothing'... Strawberry Milkshake.

There's a BUNCH of things that'll cause aeration, but in all cases, the observed result is belching of foam from the reservoir, and lots of annoying operational foibles.

Only being able to lift-so-far IS a symptom of low fluid level... and when the pump is trying to ingest aerated oil, it'll become incapable of lifting with any effectiveness at that point.

Obvious cause of aeration, is simply low oil level, but that's not ALL...

Insufficient seals... particularly, piston rod seals, hydraulic pump inlet-side seals, filter, spool valve... ANYTHING that's on a suction side can draw air IN... and once it's in, getting it OUT is a very tedious process.

When hydraulic system components are old... have either never been used, or been out of service for a long time, there's a good chance the seals have become stiff and dried out.  Lip seals on spinning shafts can cut into the shaft, leaving a groove that although seemingly good, WILL allow air to be drawn in. 

Cylinders which are lowered by gravity, regardless of wether they're single- or double-acting, WILL draw in air through a worn seal readily if the implement is lowered without the pump running... because gravity will displace the fluid from one side, but there's no pressure forcing oil into the BACK side.

Single acting PISTON type cylinders (not a 'displacement type' cylinder) have breathers on their non-active side.  under the same circumstance have the BACK of the cylinder (unplumbed) breathing air, and if they cannot breathe freely, will force air from back, through  piston seal, into the 'wet' side of the piston through normal operation.

Cold oil doesn't flow as well as warm oil.

When oil passes through a pump, it goes from one pressure, to a higher pressure, the difference between the two being determined by load resistance... which is practically zero (in an open-center system, if no valve is operated, all pump discharge is returned to the tank) to full load (lifting at maximum load) or slightly higher (exceeding cracking pressure of a pressure relief valve).

Your hydraulic system's relief valve may be bypassing when it shouldn't be.

Pressure relief valves have THREE ratings-  first is 'CRACKING PRESSURE'... the pressure point where it STARTS to bypass oil.  Second is 'FULL PRESSURE'... the pressure at which it is fully open and bypassing... which also correlates to 'MAX FLOW RATE'... which is the maximum VOLUME that valve can flow.

If you have a 10gpm pump, and a pressure relief valve with cracking at 2000psi, full pressure of 2100psi, and flow volume of 15gpm, you can safely assume that somewhere between 2000 and 2100psi is the highest you SHOULD see on the gauge... because the pump will only go to 10gpm, so the valve cracks at 2000, but will not see enough flow to hit the 15gpm/2100psi level.

The antithesis to this, is if you have a 20gpm pump, but a 2000psi crack/ 15gpm@2100psi valve... if you stall the cylinders, your 20gpm pump will try to shove all 20 through that 15gpm bypass, and you'll see MORE than 2100psi, and things will start to break.

A totally different concept:  Plumbing sizes.  A hydraulic system NEEDS to have plumbing sized large enough to do the job, and most critically, the RETURN and SUCTION sides.  If there's insufficient return, or insufficient suction, the pump will withdraw all the fluid it can, and start ingesting air.  This happens most readily when the oil is THICK, so starting up a cold machine, and expecting the hydraulics to work immediately, is expecting too much.  Best to start it, and keep it idled down, so it's turning the pump slowly, and gently warming it all up.  Environmentalists don't like this (because it is 'excessive idling', right?) but they don't know anything beyond the small fraction of the world they live in, so think like a cold machine.

Back to aeration:

When you take a volume of air, and compress it rapidly, it gets hot.  Let's say you go from standard atmosphere to oh... 350psi or so... and you squirt a little oil into that air, it ignites, giving you a diesel engine. 

When you take foamed-up oil, and pass it from ambient pressure, up to 2500psi, you have THOUSANDS of little diesel engines.  This is what happens when aeration occurs in a hydraulic pump.  The result, is burning hydraulic fluid... it gets all sooty, and it gets really hot... partially from from the air being really hot when compressed, and the remainder from the tiny combustion events occuring inside the pump.

There's a million techniques to bleeding aeration out of a hydraulic system, but the formula that always works best, is go slow, and keep the fluids warm.  If it's foaming up, you've either got someplace drawing air IN, or the level is too low to assure withdrawl of just fluid.

If you THINK there's an air leak, it can sometimes be confirmed (if your fluid is clear enough) by sticking a little camera into your tank to see the reservoir's return line.  If you see bubbles coming IN, you've got air drawing in from somewhere.

A larger reservoir HELPS reduce aeration (because the fluid has more TIME to displace air out), but it also means it takes MORE time for the fluid to warm in cold climates.

A smaller reservoir will increase warming rate, but will not shed as much excess heat whilst working... and will not provide as much variation capacity (displacement change between all cylinders retracted vs extended)... or a little extra headroom in the event of leaks.

I apologize for not responding sooner. I still need to get a pressure gauge to do testing

The suction line is quite large. I believe that the pressure line is also larger than the lines that go from the valves to the cylinders as well.

Brian, Dr - The tank is in the loader frame, left hand side. 

So, I believe I turned the screw in 2 rotations and it picks the front end right up, doesn't slow down through any of the strokes, either!

I do plan to get a gauge set, as I hope to get more and more toys utilizing Hydraulic Pressure... any recommendations? I have seen quite a few kits on Amazon, but have recently started to question the legitimacy of the reviews.

Thanks for checking in on me!

I have to admit, after the pulls and mounting the loader frame back onto the tractor I just swung into the tire shop to have them pull out my damaged tube and install a new one. it's still holding haha!

I've nearly completed the loader frame quick attach and will upload some pics of that soon. Need to burn a couple tabs to hold the pins, replace and install some new zerks, paint it and I can call it good for now. Already thinking about how I can set up remote actuated locking pins. Seen it done with hydraulics and also with electric servo... it'd sure up the convenience factor!