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Just venting about assembly lube on bolts

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CaseyCreek View Drop Down
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    Posted: 05 Sep 2018 at 9:45am

Is anti-seize so *&*%$ expensive that people can't use a little on bolts for this old equipment when they put it back together?  Heck, if they can't afford the three cents for anti-seize, at least use a little WD-40 or motor oil.  Even grease left over from an old grease gun will usually help.  Given that the people on this forum have got to hit the same problems that I do when pulling this old stuff apart, I just wanted to vent for a minute. 

I have wasted entire days getting bolts out of my 185 so that I could do a thirty minute repair.  I have lost track of how many bolts on that tractor that I have drilled out after they broke off.  I had to cut the wheel weights off with a cutting torch, then drill out the bolts with a drill press!  I couldn't even get the bolts out of the wheel weights with a chisel and a ten-pound sledge.  This was after I had cut them off the wheels.

I know you guys probably see the same kind of mess all the time and that things are probably always going to be this way, but that doesn't make it the right way to repair this old stuff.  After years of having to fix other people's "repairs" I really think there are a lot of people out there who have no business working on equipment.

I haven't even talked about over-torquing bolts yet.  Like I said, just venting, but I can't be the only one on this forum to hit this crud.


D17 Series III,D17 Series IV, 185
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Ray54 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ray54 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Sep 2018 at 11:23am
Where does the top 3/4 of a bottle of anti-seize go?Confused I buy a new bottle every once in a while and all I find are the ones that the brush is to short to get to what is left????????????????




But I also wonder on most of the very experienced(old junk) equipment I own and repair,will anyone even bother to try fixing it next time it breaks. But I still put anti-seize on if I can find it and get it out of container. 
















Edited by Ray54 - 05 Sep 2018 at 11:25am
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Walker View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Walker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Sep 2018 at 11:29am
If ya think tractors are bad try it on outboards. I like a nice chrome plated finger.

Edited by Walker - 05 Sep 2018 at 11:32am
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Thad in AR. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Thad in AR. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Sep 2018 at 11:51am
I find that old stuff (50’s) and back to be less likely than newer old stuff on breaking bolts.i believe it’s the nickel content.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Sep 2018 at 11:51am
you have to destroy a $90 pulley off a rider BEFORE you can remove the engine(frame hole too small...) to tighten the case bolts that ain't got enough locktite....sigh
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

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Dave in PA View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dave in PA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Sep 2018 at 4:20pm
A good friend of mine is the service/shop manager of a large excavating contractor in the area.  The first thing he tells a new hire, is anti-seize every bolt, nut going on anything we own!  And I want to be able to see it, or it is on your time to do so.
 
Had a new guy, while watching him not do it, told him to, and was ignored.  Mike stated tear it back down and anti-seize the bolts now, on your time or find a new job, I am not kidding here!  The gave the company about 6 hours of free time, but learned a good lesson!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CrestonM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Sep 2018 at 6:21pm
I've done extensive work on my great-grandfather's All-Crop 60A, and to date, I have twisted off 2 bolts. Yes, that includes the removal of quite a few 1/4" bolts. The combine has sat outside its entire life. I think the climate where you live has a lot to do with it. 
I pulled the grain bin off the other day to get to a bearing, and there is still clean, bare metal on the angle iron under the bin where it was mounted. I seldom have to use any penetrating oil on this machine. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DiyDave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Sep 2018 at 7:57pm
Just bought a lot, at auction, had 8 $8 bottles of NS, in it, paid $10 for the whole shelf full.

Other thing I have learned, through years of workin on old stuff, is the wax trick:  Heat the offending item, to about 500ºF with a propane torch, and as it cools, stick a bees wax candle on it, so that the melting wax wicks into the threads of the nut or bolt... Let it cool, and try tightening, just a little.  If you get some movement on the wrench, then try removing.  Oh and there is no such thing a too long a cheater bar, on the wrench.  If the wrench breaks, you shoulda used a bigger or better wrench!Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Sep 2018 at 7:59pm
Sorry but a good heat up from a torch and blast of air melts those bolts clean out the holes and good to to go, Allis cast and the bolts are way different material
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ray54 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Sep 2018 at 8:44pm
Originally posted by Thad in AR. Thad in AR. wrote:

I find that old stuff (50’s) and back to be less likely than newer old stuff on breaking bolts.i believe it’s the nickel content.

Some of the old guys used white lead way back,better than any anti-seize you can get now. Just don't lick them old treads Wink because  it caused cancer.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ted J Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Sep 2018 at 11:41am
Just broke off a bolt that holds the fender onto the finals on a WD45.  *&#(#*#
Tried going back and forth and thought it was giving so I used just a little more umph on it and POP, broke right off.  Now I have to drill.....Cry Angry

PS,,,,if it comes out/off, it gets anti-sieze when going back in.  That goes for EVERY bolt and nut or machine screw on these ole gals.


Edited by Ted J - 07 Sep 2018 at 11:46am
"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dick L Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Sep 2018 at 12:35pm
Anti-seize? I thought that thread Loctite was the way to go.   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CrestonM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Sep 2018 at 12:47pm
Originally posted by Ted J Ted J wrote:

Just broke off a bolt that holds the fender onto the finals on a WD45.  *&#(#*#
Tried going back and forth and thought it was giving so I used just a little more umph on it and POP, broke right off.  Now I have to drill.....Cry Angry

PS,,,,if it comes out/off, it gets anti-sieze when going back in.  That goes for EVERY bolt and nut or machine screw on these ole gals.
I'm learning that lesson when messing with the Super 100 at Hutch. The thing has been inside these past 60 years, but so far I've twisted off at least 5 bolts (big and small) and busted one master cylinder lid. What in the world... 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TimNearFortWorth Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Sep 2018 at 12:53pm
Offshore oil and gas for decades and A-S was a must. I learned quickly that it is best to use on pretty much everything I take apart, especially any old equipment that goes back together.
"Just a dab'll do ya" as a little goes a long ways.
If too thick, a small amount of (new) good motor or hyd oil makes it more workable but don't dilute down too much. As for the short lid brush, store the can on it's side when it get's near the bottom and you can get all of it used.
Could always tell the older cans at work as "newbies" would not touch the cans stored on their side. A sharp smack on the work bench (metal can) would leave the can nice and flat on one side, allowing all the A-S in the can to be used.
All 3-pts. and top link threads get a good cleaning/lubing with A-S yearly, adding just grease during the rest of the year as needed.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote m16ty Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Sep 2018 at 10:38pm
I haven't seen a metal anti-seize container in years. All I see nowadays are plastic. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shameless dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Sep 2018 at 1:38am
I've never used any, never needed to I guess!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ray54 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Sep 2018 at 8:19pm
Originally posted by shameless dude shameless dude wrote:

I've never used any, never needed to I guess!


Ok how why!!!!!!!!!!  You so hard on stuff you break it every yearWink. So rust never gets startedWink. Or you never use it so it cannot breakWink. Or you got them big muscles and the broke stuff just gives up Wink.....................an aaa I been poking sorry O'l friend.


I know Nebraski so far from the ocean no salt no rust,OK I figured it out.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Coke-in-MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Sep 2018 at 10:24pm
Just don't use it on wheel studs or nuts on any vehicle that needs DOT sticker - it's frowned on by inspectors and you may have to replace studs and nuts to pass inspection 
 
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