Is anti-seize so *&*%$ expensive that people can't use a little on bolts for this old equipment when they put it back together?  Heck, if they can't afford the three cents for anti-seize, at least use a little WD-40 or motor oil.  Even grease left over from an old grease gun will usually help.  Given that the people on this forum have got to hit the same problems that I do when pulling this old stuff apart, I just wanted to vent for a minute. 

I have wasted entire days getting bolts out of my 185 so that I could do a thirty minute repair.  I have lost track of how many bolts on that tractor that I have drilled out after they broke off.  I had to cut the wheel weights off with a cutting torch, then drill out the bolts with a drill press!  I couldn't even get the bolts out of the wheel weights with a chisel and a ten-pound sledge.  This was after I had cut them off the wheels.

I know you guys probably see the same kind of mess all the time and that things are probably always going to be this way, but that doesn't make it the right way to repair this old stuff.  After years of having to fix other people's "repairs" I really think there are a lot of people out there who have no business working on equipment.

I haven't even talked about over-torquing bolts yet.  Like I said, just venting, but I can't be the only one on this forum to hit this crud.

But I also wonder on most of the very experienced(old junk) equipment I own and repair,will anyone even bother to try fixing it next time it breaks. But I still put anti-seize on if I can find it and get it out of container. 

 

Had a new guy, while watching him not do it, told him to, and was ignored.  Mike stated tear it back down and anti-seize the bolts now, on your time or find a new job, I am not kidding here!  The gave the company about 6 hours of free time, but learned a good lesson!

Other thing I have learned, through years of workin on old stuff, is the wax trick:  Heat the offending item, to about 500ºF with a propane torch, and as it cools, stick a bees wax candle on it, so that the melting wax wicks into the threads of the nut or bolt... Let it cool, and try tightening, just a little.  If you get some movement on the wrench, then try removing.  Oh and there is no such thing a too long a cheater bar, on the wrench.  If the wrench breaks, you shoulda used a bigger or better wrench!

Some of the old guys used white lead way back,better than any anti-seize you can get now. Just don't lick them old treads  because  it caused cancer.

I'm learning that lesson when messing with the Super 100 at Hutch. The thing has been inside these past 60 years, but so far I've twisted off at least 5 bolts (big and small) and busted one master cylinder lid. What in the world... 

"Just a dab'll do ya" as a little goes a long ways.

If too thick, a small amount of (new) good motor or hyd oil makes it more workable but don't dilute down too much. As for the short lid brush, store the can on it's side when it get's near the bottom and you can get all of it used.

Could always tell the older cans at work as "newbies" would not touch the cans stored on their side. A sharp smack on the work bench (metal can) would leave the can nice and flat on one side, allowing all the A-S in the can to be used.

All 3-pts. and top link threads get a good cleaning/lubing with A-S yearly, adding just grease during the rest of the year as needed.

Ok how why!!!!!!!!!!  You so hard on stuff you break it every year. So rust never gets started. Or you never use it so it cannot break. Or you got them big muscles and the broke stuff just gives up .....................an aaa I been poking sorry O'l friend.

I know Nebraski so far from the ocean no salt no rust,OK I figured it out.