interesting read (oil zinc levels)

Iv'e been researching for oil to use in my old tractors so that I won't wipe out the cam shaft.Not to kick the bee hive, but does anyone have any suggestions.found this interesting article recently.whata yall think?   
              [Editor’s Note: After the conversation following our introduction of the Hemmings Motor News Motor Oil last month, we turned to our tech guru, Jim O’Clair, for an explanation of the problems classic car owners have when choosing a modern motor oil.]

There has been a lot of confusion in the last few years about the lowering of zinc and phosphorus levels in modern oils and how these lower levels relate to classic and performance engines using standard flat tappet lifters – that is, just about every car built before the Eighties. The concern involves the use of the new lower zinc/phosphorus-content ILSAC (multi-viscosity) oils, readily available on shelves at auto parts stores everywhere, and how compatible they are with these older engines.

When anyone mentions zinc, they are actually referring to zinc dialkyldithiophosphate, a compound invented by Castrol for use in mineral-based oils or zinc di-thiophosphate (ZDTP), which is normally used in synthetic oils. Both have been used as an anti-wear ingredient in engine oil for many years. The zinc and phosphorus ingredients appear to be most effective when they are used together. ZDDP/ZDTP is one of many additives that are put into conventional motor oil to improve its lubrication qualities. Other ingredients such as boron and molybdenum are also added as lubricant enhancers.

What was discovered through oil testing by several engine component manufacturers is that many older engines experience a short period of time during engine start-up where critical lubrication is insufficient between metal-to-metal lubrication points when using modern oils with reduced amounts of ZDDP/ZDTP. These same enhancers unfortunately have their downside: The phosphorus in this compound creates carbon buildup in engine bores and valvetrains, and both compounds can also lead to the early demise of catalytic converters. For this reason, the industry has been phasing out zinc and phosphorus levels since 1994, when the American Petroleum Institute’s SH designation became the industry standard, and levels have been further reduced in each subsequent API rating for engine oils. Manufacturers have tried adding more boron to offset the effects of the reduced zinc and phosphorus levels; however, the dry start protection does not measure up to those using more ZDDP/ZDTP. This has opened up a whole new market for zinc/phosphorus additives for oil and many camshaft and engine manufacturers now recommend that an additive be used in initial break-in and for regular use.

All engine oils are rated for viscosity by the SAE as well as additive content by the API; passenger car ratings are two-letter designations that start with “S.” Heavy-duty or off-road equipment ratings start with “C.” The current API oil rating for passenger cars (gasoline engines) is SM and for trucks (diesel engines) CJ-4. Within these designations, you can determine how much zinc and how many other chemicals are present in the ILSAC (multi-viscosity) oils. These levels do not apply to straight-weight oils. If levels in the ILSAC oils are too high for the API specification, they cannot be rated for the current specification unless the container specifies “for racing or off-road use only” or “for use in classic cars.” This has caused oil companies to reduce levels of many additives, including zinc and phosphorus, to the required maximum in order to meet the current specification. Listed here are the current specifications for maximum amounts of additives to achieve the API ratings. P is phosphorus, Zn is zinc, and B is boron. Each figure is total parts per million of additives. These can also be roughly expressed in percentages by multiplying by .0001 (1301 PPM = .13 percent, 994 PPM = .099 percent)

API     P     Zn     B
SJ     1301     1280     151
CI-4     1150     1374     83
SL     994     1182     133
CJ-4     819     1014     26
SM     770     939     127
Most engine and engine component manufacturers recommend zinc and phosphorus content of more than 1,200 PPM for break-in; in fact, many will void warranties on camshafts or crate engines if this minimum is not found in the oil sample you supply when returning broken parts for warranty. For this reason, many manufacturers produce their own zinc additives or oils with supplementary zinc included; GM even offers its own break-in oil with additional ZDDP. With respect to readily available oil, you can see from the chart that, if you can find oil still on the shelf rated SJ or SL, you can use them, but you are right on the cusp of voiding a warranty. New SM oils are just not going to cut it unless they have a zinc additive to boost the rating and one of the zinc supplements should be used with these oils or oils containing additional ZDDP additives are recommended. Some enthusiasts have recommended using commercially rated CI-4 15W40 diesel oil to meet the zinc and phosphorus additive requirement; however, CI-4 is an old specification and hard to locate. You can see that the CJ-4 specification that now supersedes it is well below acceptable levels. Our best recommendation is that you contact your oil supplier for exact additive contents. Many straight-weight oils do not have to meet the ILSAC API specifications to be sold as SM or CJ-4, so this may be an alternative. Classic car oils with elevated levels of ZDDP/ZDTP are also being offered by many suppliers. Regardless, if you are purchasing off-the-shelf oil for your classic car, ILSAC multi-viscosity oils rated SM or CJ-4 should have stated zinc and phosphorus additive supplements for use in older engines or an additional separate additive should be purchased and used with the new oil. As the new API rating SN becomes available in the next year, even more caution should be taken as the levels will be reduced even further.



Edited by ac45dave - 11 Feb 2018 at 9:03pm

Thanks for posting about this Dave and I hope you don't catch the crap over like I did.lol

They are more concerned about those motors turning 8 or 9000 rpm than a 1800 rpm tractor. Use any modern oil sae 30, 15w40, etc and you will be fine. Been using F/S 15w40 in my tractors, combines, trucks, cars, and pickups since I brought the first case of it west of the Mississippi river in early 1977. I have run it over a million miles in trucks, thousands of hours in farm tractors, and hundreds of thousands of miles in cars, pickups, and mini vans with no engine failure of any kind.

i've  been using Kendall 15W-40 diesel grade oil in every engine I own for the last 20 years with no oil related issues I know of.
A question does cranking the motor over some before letting it start reduce start up wear?

isn't Penzoil....recycled oil?

This has been brought up previously and I noted the changes coming as they were mandated to be introduced December 2016.

WF - for break-in you'd be better off buying a motor oil that is designed for older engines. The concentration of zinc will be correct. It appears that too much is harmful. It also appears that cold startups are when much of the wear occurs.  All the more reason to use a free-flowing multi-weight synthetic oil.

I use Amsoil Synthetic. Check out their Z -Rod oil for example its for older cars.... read about it...it's specifically designed for flat tappet camshaft engines that may sit more than they are used daily. Highly zink fortified. The zink acts as a sacraficial metal so upon start up it leaves the thin layer of zink to act as a wear component up until pressure or splash lubrication takes place.



You may have to copy that link to your Google box or browser search window but it's the technical service pdf that goes into great detail on the specific oil and what zink does to help out.


https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amsoil.com/techservicesbulletin/MotorOil/TSB%2520MO-2007-08-08%2520Flat%2520Tappet.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwj656_vjp7ZAhVO1GMKHS9qC88QFjABegQIEhAB&usg=AOvVaw1Mcbr8MNsBuoEypW2Qkdl6

Synthetic oil in the crank case and 100LL in the fuel tank mixed w just a small amount of two stroke oil to lubricate the exhaust valve's (due to 100ll being more of a dry fuel) and u are set. Protect the internals of the engine and protect the fuel tank, carb from gumming up and the entire fuel system.

Note: This may be more useful to collectors that have tractors that sit.

Unleaded gasoline is OK if u burn through it daily but other than that and it will make a person pretty frustrated when he has 20 tractors that won't run...the fuel tank looks awful inside and the carb is peeling like a sunburn inside with yellow varnish. In my opinion it is easily preventable. ...the shelf life on auto gas is 30 days. The shelf life on aviation 100ll is 7 years. That's a fact.

People will say...but 100 LL is so much more expensive....well take your tanks and carbs off...go through all that and do the math. If u are using the machines every day use auto...if they sit....use 100ll. May be the best thing you ever have done and really helps with the stress of keeping the mechanical integrity of collector tractors intact.

Just my 2cents...

Very interesting article.   I think what is missed in all the discussions here is that clean oil is as much the solution to engine longevity as treating the engine with care.  Change your oil frequently, and let your engine warm up and  cool down properly, and it will treat you well.  Abuse it, run oil too long between changes, etc and it will come back to haunt you.

WF. I would agree with that....in the Aviation world on recip engines we use a non detergent 100W mineral oil for the first 25 hours and then switch back to a detergent multi grade oil after that....I think of it as the engine is sort of finishing the machining process....the biggest part is your seat between the rings and cylinder walls. U don't want a lot of lubricity there or u won't get a good seat. If u were to use a straight grade or synthetic oil off the bat u may get excessive blow by on a new OH.

I agree with DougS on the zink.

Ford Explorer/Edge 3.5, 2.0 NA and Eco Boost, 2.3 Eco Boost, and 2.5 are all flat tappet cams. Nothing wrong with modern oil on a stock flat tappet cam. An aftermarket high performance grind, absolutely add the ZDDP to the oil.

DakotaSteve wrote: Synthetic oil in the crank case and 100LL in the fuel tank mixed w just a small amount of two stroke oil to lubricate the exhaust valve's (due to 100ll being more of a dry fuel) and u are set. Protect the internals of the engine and protect the fuel tank, carb from gumming up and the entire fuel system. Note: This may be more useful to collectors that have tractors that sit. Unleaded gasoline is OK if u burn through it daily but other than that and it will make a person pretty frustrated when he has 20 tractors that won't run...the fuel tank looks awful inside and the carb is peeling like a sunburn inside with yellow varnish. In my opinion it is easily preventable. ...the shelf life on auto gas is 30 days. The shelf life on aviation 100ll is 7 years. That's a fact. People will say...but 100 LL is so much more expensive....well take your tanks and carbs off...go through all that and do the math. If u are using the machines every day use auto...if they sit....use 100ll. May be the best thing you ever have done and really helps with the stress of keeping the mechanical integrity of collector tractors intact. Just my 2cents...

steve, I never would have ever dreamed there was that much difference in the shelf life of regular gas and avgas,7 years wow!!the 100ll and two cycle recipe sounds like a collectors dream for long term stored tractors.

Edited by ac45dave - 26 Feb 2018 at 6:45pm

Brian Jasper co. Ia wrote: Ford Explorer/Edge 3.5, 2.0 NA and Eco Boost, 2.3 Eco Boost, and 2.5 are all flat tappet cams. Nothing wrong with modern oil on a stock flat tappet cam. An aftermarket high performance grind, absolutely add the ZDDP to the oil.

Brian not to dispute your knowledge but I would have to say the materials used in
the manufacturing of the modern day flat tappet engines are far from what was used in the fifties.I would think the lube requirements would differ greatly also.