| Author |
 Topic Search  Topic Options
|
dfwallis 
Orange Level
Joined: 09 Mar 2023
Location: DFW
Points: 816
|
 Post Options
 Thanks(0)
 Quote  Reply
 Posted: 09 Apr 2024 at 8:50pm |
|
Steering play adjustment: That would be interesting. Mine seemed to be all related to gear teeth meshing.
|
|
1952 CA13092
|
 |
|
Sponsored Links
|
|
|
CA13414
Silver Level
Joined: 25 Feb 2024
Location: Nebraska
Points: 373
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 09 Apr 2024 at 8:10pm |
Removed the battery box, tool box and steering column/shaft.
Need to figure out how to tighten up the steering boxes to take out the extra play.
< id="idg-io-safe-browsing-enabled" ="" oninit="true">
Edited by CA13414 - 09 Apr 2024 at 8:12pm
|
|
Helping the aged survive and thrive! 1953 CA
|
|
CA13414
Silver Level
Joined: 25 Feb 2024
Location: Nebraska
Points: 373
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 07 Apr 2024 at 6:45am |
The last parts to remove for sand blasting are the steering shaft and tool box. Then we will clean the rest with wire brushes and cleaner. 
At this point the only other thing we have noticed is a small antifreeze leak from the upper seam of the radiator. Hope it is a quick fix with the MAP torch and solder.
< id="idg-io-safe-browsing-enabled" ="" oninit="true">
Edited by CA13414 - 09 Apr 2024 at 8:08pm
|
|
Helping the aged survive and thrive! 1953 CA
|
|
CA13414
Silver Level
Joined: 25 Feb 2024
Location: Nebraska
Points: 373
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 06 Apr 2024 at 5:11pm |
Stripped down a bit more..... almost as far as we go in that regard.
One of the major oil leaks is the hydraulic system. It is coming from the upper side. Not sure exactly what it will be but suspect an "O" ring is bad.
Here are a few of the last parts for sand blasting.
Was a bit of a pain, but removed the spindles out of the front end. Next to remove the old spindle bushings and press the new ones in after cleaning them up.
Overall a very productive day. I think we have found all but one oil leak. This is on the left side and leaking between the differential and final drive housing. I suspect it is the inner oil seal for the upper drive shaft which was leaking into the left housing. Here is the brake pad that was buried in dirt and leaves in the housing and soaked with oil.
< id="idg-io-safe-browsing-enabled" ="" oninit="true">
Edited by CA13414 - 07 Apr 2024 at 9:42am
|
|
Helping the aged survive and thrive! 1953 CA
|
|
CA13414
Silver Level
Joined: 25 Feb 2024
Location: Nebraska
Points: 373
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 02 Apr 2024 at 8:08pm |
Pulled the gas tank and will sand blast that with a bunch of other small parts.
Also took off the brakes. The pads were quite worn and broken up. "Drums" do look good, not 100% but reasonable for now.
Do appreciate the prior owners who drilled out the middle side of the pins. Was easy to remove after a couple of days of panther piss. However, there was a ton of dirt, oil and etc which made it a challenge to remove the pads due to the space being full of organic material. We prevailed.
Next is to remove all other sand blast-able parts including the tire rims.
< id="idg-io-safe-browsing-enabled" ="" oninit="true">
Edited by CA13414 - 07 Apr 2024 at 9:41am
|
|
Helping the aged survive and thrive! 1953 CA
|
|
wjohn
Orange Level
Joined: 19 Jan 2010
Location: KS
Points: 2223
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 30 Mar 2024 at 11:14pm |
|
Agreed! It sounds like it's running well.
|
|
1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
|
|
Alberta Phil
Orange Level
Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Alberta, Canada
Points: 3927
|
Post Options
Thanks(1)
Quote Reply
Posted: 30 Mar 2024 at 8:13pm |
|
That 'ol girl sound pretty healthy!!
|
|
CA13414
Silver Level
Joined: 25 Feb 2024
Location: Nebraska
Points: 373
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 30 Mar 2024 at 7:38pm |
Well at the end of the day it was a blast to hang and work on the tractor!! Here is a video of me driving up the hill in 4th gear..... Yes I definitely date myself with the tag line of a long ago sit-com. :')
Make sure you turn up the volume.
< id="idg-io-safe-browsing-enabled" ="" oninit="true">
Edited by CA13414 - 31 Mar 2024 at 9:26am
|
|
Helping the aged survive and thrive! 1953 CA
|
|
CA13414
Silver Level
Joined: 25 Feb 2024
Location: Nebraska
Points: 373
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 30 Mar 2024 at 7:29pm |
Took it out for a spin. Mostly to see if the clutch held tight. Was able to stall the engine with a quick release. http://youtube.com/shorts/RIyl1zqUqos
As well, in 4th gear and going up the hill, definitely did not slip as it overloaded the engine. Great news. http://youtube.com/shorts/8Xhocc4aG18
Thus, do not plan to break away the engine and put in a new clutch plate and disk.
< id="idg-io-safe-browsing-enabled" ="" oninit="true">
Edited by CA13414 - 30 Mar 2024 at 7:34pm
|
|
Helping the aged survive and thrive! 1953 CA
|
|
CA13414
Silver Level
Joined: 25 Feb 2024
Location: Nebraska
Points: 373
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 30 Mar 2024 at 4:40pm |
Still needed to change out the float valve needle and seat, however, after decades of fuel it took a screw extractor to remove the brass seat. Also had to tap out the threads to put n the new valve seat!! Re-attached the carb and it ran beautifully.
 .
Also was able to remove one of the front spindles arms and remove the spindle on my GP/Dads front end that was frozen up. Sprayed down the other one with Panther Piss. Yes that is what my Dad called it back in the 60's and it as stuck!! Will have to do the other one on another day. I already ordered new spindle bushings. Then need new front bearings and we will replace whole front end. I will add pics of this effort later.
Replacing the front end with my GP/Dads CA........ Mostly to have parts from the family tractor and since the current front end is quite damaged with much artful welding of everything including angle-iron reinforcements.
< id="idg-io-safe-browsing-enabled" ="" oninit="true">
Edited by CA13414 - 30 Mar 2024 at 8:47pm
|
|
Helping the aged survive and thrive! 1953 CA
|
|
CA13414
Silver Level
Joined: 25 Feb 2024
Location: Nebraska
Points: 373
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 29 Mar 2024 at 8:27pm |
Thank you!!
I do love marine grade (316) since it is the only one who will not rust in harsh conditions. I use it all the time for that reason. Did not know it had that tensile strength.
If this is used, I would expect you would not "rust" to the manifold, and still have the strength to remove from the manifold years from now. If you did break it, it would be a pain to remove/drill out!
< id="idg-io-safe-browsing-enabled" ="" oninit="true">
Edited by CA13414 - 29 Mar 2024 at 8:28pm
|
|
Helping the aged survive and thrive! 1953 CA
|
|
dfwallis
Orange Level
Joined: 09 Mar 2023
Location: DFW
Points: 816
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 29 Mar 2024 at 6:25pm |
 SteveM C/IL wrote:
stainless bolts are usually not hard bolts. I would use grade 5 with antisieze. Grade 8 ok too. |
316 stainless has a tensile strength of 180000 psi which is higher than grade 8 of 150000 psi. Just don't use 314 or 18-8.
|
|
1952 CA13092
|
|
CA13414
Silver Level
Joined: 25 Feb 2024
Location: Nebraska
Points: 373
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 29 Mar 2024 at 4:19pm |
Thanks Steve! Will do exactly that!!
< id="idg-io-safe-browsing-enabled" ="" oninit="true">
Edited by CA13414 - 29 Mar 2024 at 4:20pm
|
|
Helping the aged survive and thrive! 1953 CA
|
|
SteveM C/IL
Orange Level Access
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Shelbyville IL
Points: 8641
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 29 Mar 2024 at 8:07am |
|
stainless bolts are usually not hard bolts. I would use grade 5 with antisieze. Grade 8 ok too.
|
|
CA13414
Silver Level
Joined: 25 Feb 2024
Location: Nebraska
Points: 373
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 29 Mar 2024 at 7:13am |
Reassembled and will put it back on tomorrow. I am always amazed how many little parts there are and yet quite simple overall!
< id="idg-io-safe-browsing-enabled" ="" oninit="true">
Edited by CA13414 - 29 Mar 2024 at 7:14am
|
|
Helping the aged survive and thrive! 1953 CA
|
|
CA13414
Silver Level
Joined: 25 Feb 2024
Location: Nebraska
Points: 373
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 28 Mar 2024 at 9:44pm |
Pulled the carb and stripped it down. After a soak in the cleaner, it is now ready to reassemble.
 .
|
|
Helping the aged survive and thrive! 1953 CA
|
|
CA13414
Silver Level
Joined: 25 Feb 2024
Location: Nebraska
Points: 373
|
Post Options
Thanks(1)
Quote Reply
Posted: 23 Mar 2024 at 9:42pm |
Power washed the whole unit. Took about 4 hours total with a ton of degreaser.
 . 
After power washing. Much better. Still needs a bit of "elbow grease" in a few spots.
Need to clean up the brake pad and drums within the axil. They both are are full of years of dirt, corn shucks and other. Weep holes are also plugged up!! Drums look Ok, and it looks the the pads have been replaced at some time. Will still replace them now since it is stripped down.
Also noted that all that the prior owner put wax plugs into each threaded hole in the chassis to prevent rusting. Someone who took care and thought ahead.
Before we tear it down to clean, repair and rebuild, and replace gaskets that are leaking, we did want to change out the muffler. OK, just wanted to put it on to see how it looked and sounded.
HOWEVER, as you might expect, I broke off the bolt in the exhaust manifold despite some heat. This was the bolt that passes completely into the manifold. The other one came out with a little heat from the torch.
Thus, our 5 min project became 90 min. We drilled out the bolt and retapped the manifold (used magnets to catch the shavings). Here it is with the new muffler which really changed the sound of the tractor. Sounds and looks awesome.
Has anyone ever used stainless steel bolts in the manifold to prevent future breakage?
Here is a link to the pre-wash and pre-"new muffler" run:
Here a link after we power washed and with the new muffler. Love the sound of the new muffler! Drove it outside and let it warm up! Is quite responsive and smooth, even with the governor, in increasing or decreasing throttle speed. :')
< id="idg-io-safe-browsing-enabled" ="" oninit="true">
Edited by CA13414 - 24 Mar 2024 at 1:25pm
|
|
Helping the aged survive and thrive! 1953 CA
|
|
CA13414
Silver Level
Joined: 25 Feb 2024
Location: Nebraska
Points: 373
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 23 Mar 2024 at 9:23pm |
Changed the oil and filter today. Also took off the valve cover and was pleased to see this was very clean. Very easy to start and runs awesome.
After warming up the engine, the oil pressure at an idle was awesome! From others in the forum, would suspect this is 15 PSI.
We also checked the compression pressures in each cylinders. Cylinder #1: 130 PSI Cylinder #2: 135 PSI Cylinder #3: 135 PSI Cylinder #4: 130 PSI
These were awesome and better than expected. Great news!
I do not think we should do anything else with the engine but clean it up and work on the rest of the tractor.
I have no history on this unit, but I have to think this has been rebuilt with all the above. As well, I know the last owner did have the Mag rebuilt and put on a new water pump.
So overall excited about the condition of the engine.
< id="idg-io-safe-browsing-enabled" ="" oninit="true">
Edited by CA13414 - 25 Mar 2024 at 6:09am
|
|
Helping the aged survive and thrive! 1953 CA
|
|
CA13414
Silver Level
Joined: 25 Feb 2024
Location: Nebraska
Points: 373
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 17 Mar 2024 at 7:31pm |
Thanks you, appreciate the notion of sliding tires if too wide and being hard to stear. I do not want to tear up the grass, thus, maybe stick with a narrow flat profile tire vs. ribbed?
Thoughts on the rear tires?
< id="idg-io-safe-browsing-enabled" ="" oninit="true">
Edited by CA13414 - 17 Mar 2024 at 7:31pm
|
|
Helping the aged survive and thrive! 1953 CA
|
|
DiyDave
Orange Level Access
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Gambrills, MD
Points: 54167
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 16 Mar 2024 at 4:11am |
I'd leave the front tires/rims stock. It has no PS, and the wider fronts are harder to steer with, and tend to skid more than turn... 
|
|
Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need!
|
|
CA13414
Silver Level
Joined: 25 Feb 2024
Location: Nebraska
Points: 373
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 15 Mar 2024 at 8:58pm |
Questions for the group. Planning to use this not only for mowing, but also to grade/move sand. Any suggestions on tire size or type.
< id="idg-io-safe-browsing-enabled" ="" oninit="true">
Edited by CA13414 - 15 Mar 2024 at 9:47pm
|
|
CA13414
Silver Level
Joined: 25 Feb 2024
Location: Nebraska
Points: 373
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 15 Mar 2024 at 8:07pm |
Here is the unique Hough Farmall M that I rebuilt in HS. Not as nice as the prior post but the same model without the tin. Does need a little TLC from someone.
< id="idg-io-safe-browsing-enabled" ="" oninit="true">
Edited by CA13414 - 15 Mar 2024 at 8:34pm
|
|
Steve in NJ
Orange Level Access
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Andover, NJ
Points: 12005
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 14 Mar 2024 at 7:32pm |
Sounds like a family affair goin' on there!! Keep us posted! We love pics to! When the time comes and you need wiring for that puppy, keep us in mind. Good Luck! Steve@B&B bb-customcircuits.com
|
|
39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
|
|
CA13414
Silver Level
Joined: 25 Feb 2024
Location: Nebraska
Points: 373
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 14 Mar 2024 at 1:46pm |
OK, so up to this thread, the prior posts covered the past month. Now the posts slow down and I plan to keep up in "real" time!
Yesterdays Tractor Co. and DJ's Tractor Parts will likely know me by name when this is all done!!!
< id="idg-io-safe-browsing-enabled" ="" oninit="true">
Edited by CA13414 - 14 Mar 2024 at 4:25pm
|
|
CA13414
Silver Level
Joined: 25 Feb 2024
Location: Nebraska
Points: 373
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 14 Mar 2024 at 1:00pm |
My sister took off the radiator leuver. Awesome job!
We will pick it up tomorrow!!!
< id="idg-io-safe-browsing-enabled" ="" oninit="true">
Edited by CA13414 - 14 Mar 2024 at 4:23pm
|
|
CA13414
Silver Level
Joined: 25 Feb 2024
Location: Nebraska
Points: 373
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 14 Mar 2024 at 12:14pm |
Ted, I did find "Sugarmaker's" thread which was fun to read. Thanks for the reference.
< id="idg-io-safe-browsing-enabled" ="" oninit="true">
Edited by CA13414 - 14 Mar 2024 at 4:04pm
|
|
CA13414
Silver Level
Joined: 25 Feb 2024
Location: Nebraska
Points: 373
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 14 Mar 2024 at 12:11pm |
Found a picture from someone else on the web who has restored the exact Hough loader I rebuilt in High School. Ends up this is a rare Hough combination with a Farmall M. Ours is missing the tin, but otherwise looks the same with bad tires and weathered paint.
< id="idg-io-safe-browsing-enabled" ="" oninit="true">
Edited by CA13414 - 14 Mar 2024 at 4:03pm
|
|
CA13414
Silver Level
Joined: 25 Feb 2024
Location: Nebraska
Points: 373
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 14 Mar 2024 at 9:22am |
Ted thank you!
Agree it is exciting to bring back that piece of history. Love the comment about having "farmed in" pieces.
At least we will keep the skeleton of the my GP/Dad's CA in the trees. Will keep it in mind and when I have some time and set aside some $.
The last tractor transmission I rebuilt was years ago and was a old Hough payloader model ? that my Dad bought used in the late 50's. I convinced my mechanic's teacher in high school (early 80's) to let me rebuild the "M" engine and parts of the transmission and back end. Took most of my senior year but was successful. It worked well, but was a beast to drive without power-stearing. Used this on the farm for over a decade, until Dad had carb troubles and he replaced it with a used tractor loader.
Thus, ~40 years later it also sits parked. :'( It still turns over, but has not ran for ~25-30 years. I will load up a picture of this unique loader later. < id="idg-io-safe-browsing-enabled" ="" oninit="true">
Edited by CA13414 - 14 Mar 2024 at 4:17pm
|
|
Ted J
Orange Level
Joined: 05 Jul 2010
Location: La Crosse, WI
Points: 18943
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 14 Mar 2024 at 6:39am |
I'm really happy for you to be bringing a piece of your family history back from the dead. It's the relationship with a 'family' tractor that makes it even better to be rebuilding, albeit with some 'farmed in' pieces. You CAN save the serial #, but it'll entail a lot of work, but in the end you'll be VERY happy with the outcome and have the family heirloom back in working order. You should have NO problem with finding parts as there were a number of these made, although they are getting scarcer all the time. It is a GREAT little tractor with a lot more guts that it looks capable of. Thanks fro saving another Allis!! Keep the pics coming and the progress as you go along! If you need anything, just ask and you can follow another CA rebuild by looking at a thread that is being done by 'Sugarmaker'. Good luck and ENJOY!! The accomplishment is worth all the grief, swearing and busted knuckles!!
|
|
"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
|
|
CA13414
Silver Level
Joined: 25 Feb 2024
Location: Nebraska
Points: 373
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 13 Mar 2024 at 7:49pm |
Outstanding Job on your rebuild of the engine and front.
The front end looks simple, but suspect there will be surprises. I was looking for front end spindle bushings but cann't find any. Just in case old ones are shot. Hope I will be able to get them freed up. Tie-rods appear good but we will see.
< id="idg-io-safe-browsing-enabled" ="" oninit="true">
Edited by CA13414 - 14 Mar 2024 at 12:39pm
|
|
