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Gleaner F2 rear damper plate |
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farmer85
Bronze Level
Joined: 02 Dec 2021 Location: Sullivan Mo Points: 20 |
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Topic: Gleaner F2 rear damper platePosted: 02 Dec 2021 at 12:58pm |
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Hi, newbie here but long time lurker and have learned a lot from this forum so thanks to all. I have a new to me F2 gleaner that the rear pto damper is starting to rattle under no load conditions and you can rock the shaft back and forth quite a bit so its time. Question is under Agco parts book for my later F2 longback with the 4cyl diesel engine I need part number 71190940. When I look that part up they basically offer 2 different ones (aftermarket)that both cross to that number. The one is $160 while the other says hydro on it but same part number is $300. Mine is a gear drive but I was hoping someone could shed some light on this for me. Agco offers this new but its backordered it says for $200. While we are on the subject I was going to go ahead and change the bearings, and I cant tell if there is a pilot bearing on the engine side or whats there. Parts book breaks it at the damper and I haven't been able to make heads or tails.
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IBWD MIke
Orange Level
Joined: 08 Apr 2012 Location: Newton Ia. Points: 4123 |
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Posted: 02 Dec 2021 at 1:33pm |
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Welcome to the forum! I know very little about Gleaners, good help will be along. |
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FREEDGUY
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Joined: 15 Apr 2017 Location: South West Mich Points: 5396 |
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Posted: 02 Dec 2021 at 6:57pm |
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Welcome, our '79 F2 plate has rattled since we've owned it (17 years), so far so good
!! IMO, there's no way all of those exposed springs can be silent while the engine is running ??
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farmer85
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Joined: 02 Dec 2021 Location: Sullivan Mo Points: 20 |
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Posted: 02 Dec 2021 at 7:54pm |
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Thanks. This rattles very bad at low idle especially. But wben i shut it off i can grab the output shaft and rotate it back and forth watching the springs move around. Splines dont show much wear. It would seem to me as if this ones anout to give up. Im not certain if that movement is normal but im not sure how it could be.
Edited by farmer85 - 02 Dec 2021 at 7:55pm |
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DrAllis
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 22128 |
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Posted: 02 Dec 2021 at 8:02pm |
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At a minimum, replace it. You will be shocked how tight they should be. Don't unbolt the rear plate that the PTO shaft is bolted to because you will then for sure have the plate out of alignment to the crankshaft. Just remove the four bolts that hold the bearing and pull the shaft out. Ideally, the rear plate should be re-aligned to the flywheel/crankshaft, but few customers have the tooling or skill to do that. Replacement of the drive disc is an improvement from one that is ready to explode.
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SteveM C/IL
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Shelbyville IL Points: 8669 |
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Posted: 02 Dec 2021 at 11:11pm |
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there was no pilot bearing on that setup.....should have been IMO.
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farmer85
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Joined: 02 Dec 2021 Location: Sullivan Mo Points: 20 |
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Posted: 06 Dec 2021 at 3:16pm |
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Thanks Dr, will do. I still am unsure of the parts discrepancy on these plates . one says hydro but both cross to the same part number. one is double the price but doesnt look any more heavy duty. i guess ill go with the cheaper one because it appears to match the one i have. can i just put a magnetic base dial indicator on the shaft and check the runout after its installed? i suppose this would be better than nothing??
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DrAllis
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 22128 |
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Posted: 06 Dec 2021 at 3:22pm |
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If you want to when assembled. Dial indicator clamped to the shaft As close to the bearing as possible. Place the indicator point near the O.D. of the flywheel face. Turn engine over by hand and see how far off it is. Try to get down to .030" out of line by moving the rear PTO plate up/down/sideways. It's no fun. You'll never get to .000"
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