Print Page | Close Window

Gleaner F2 rear damper plate

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=184911
Printed Date: 22 May 2025 at 11:30am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: Gleaner F2 rear damper plate
Posted By: farmer85
Subject: Gleaner F2 rear damper plate
Date Posted: 02 Dec 2021 at 12:58pm
Hi, newbie here but long time lurker and have learned a lot from this forum so thanks to all. I have a new to me F2 gleaner that the rear pto damper is starting to rattle under no load conditions and you can rock the shaft back and forth quite a bit so its time. Question is under Agco parts book for my later F2 longback with the 4cyl diesel engine I need part number 71190940. When I look that part up they basically offer 2 different ones (aftermarket)that both cross to that number. The one is $160 while the other says hydro on it but same part number is $300. Mine is a gear drive but I was hoping someone could shed some light on this for me. Agco offers this new but its backordered it says for $200. While we are on the subject I was going to go ahead and change the bearings, and I cant tell if there is a pilot bearing on the engine side or whats there. Parts book breaks it at the damper and I haven't been able to make heads or tails.



Replies:
Posted By: IBWD MIke
Date Posted: 02 Dec 2021 at 1:33pm
Welcome to the forum! I know very little about Gleaners, good help will be along.




Posted By: FREEDGUY
Date Posted: 02 Dec 2021 at 6:57pm
Welcome, our '79 F2 plate has rattled  since we've owned it (17 years), so far so good Smile !!  IMO, there's no way all of those exposed springs can be silent while the engine is running Embarrassed ??


Posted By: farmer85
Date Posted: 02 Dec 2021 at 7:54pm
Thanks. This rattles very bad at low idle especially. But wben i shut it off i can grab the output shaft and rotate it back and forth watching the springs move around. Splines dont show much wear. It would seem to me as if this ones anout to give up. Im not certain if that movement is normal but im not sure how it could be.


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 02 Dec 2021 at 8:02pm
At a minimum, replace it. You will be shocked how tight they should be. Don't unbolt the rear plate that the PTO shaft is bolted to because you will then for sure have the plate out of alignment to the crankshaft. Just remove the four bolts that hold the bearing and pull the shaft out. Ideally, the rear plate should be re-aligned to the flywheel/crankshaft, but few customers have the tooling or skill to do that. Replacement of the drive disc is an improvement from one that is ready to explode.


Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 02 Dec 2021 at 11:11pm
there was no pilot bearing on that setup.....should have been IMO.


Posted By: farmer85
Date Posted: 06 Dec 2021 at 3:16pm
Thanks Dr, will do.  I still am unsure of the parts discrepancy on these plates . one says hydro but both cross to the same part number. one is double the price but doesnt look any more heavy duty. i guess ill go with the cheaper one because it appears to match the one i have. can i just put a magnetic base dial indicator on the shaft and check the runout after its installed? i suppose this would be better than nothing??


Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 06 Dec 2021 at 3:22pm
If you want to when assembled. Dial indicator clamped to the shaft  As close to the bearing as possible. Place the indicator point near the O.D. of the flywheel face. Turn engine over by hand and see how far off it is. Try to get down to .030" out of line by moving the rear PTO plate up/down/sideways. It's no fun. You'll never get to .000"



Print Page | Close Window

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Copyright ©2001-2017 Web Wiz Ltd. - https://www.webwiz.net