| Author |
 Topic Search  Topic Options
|
AC720Man 
Orange Level
Joined: 10 Oct 2016
Location: Shenandoah, Va
Points: 5358
|
 Post Options
 Thanks(0)
 Quote  Reply
 Topic: Valve Clearance
Posted: Yesterday at 1:03pm |
|
Working on my D14, replacing the valve cover and manifold gaskets. I am going to check the valve clearances and make any adjustments if necessary while I have the valve cover off. Since many components have been removed to prep for paint I can’t start the engine to get it to operational temperature as the manual recommends. Question is, is there a big difference checking them cold versus hot? .012” is what the book calls for. Obviously much easier to check them at this point with all the sheetmetal off, or should I wait until I put it back together to get it up to operational temperature?
|
|
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
|
 |
|
Sponsored Links
|
|
|
injpumpEd
Orange Level Access
Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Walnut IL
Points: 5177
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: Yesterday at 2:05pm |
|
I always set them cold, and add about .002" to the hot spec. I've never felt I could go through them all quick enough hot to be the same temp from start to finish.
|
|
210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
|
|
AC720Man
Orange Level
Joined: 10 Oct 2016
Location: Shenandoah, Va
Points: 5358
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: Yesterday at 2:36pm |
|
I agree with you ED, it wouldn’t be consistent on a hot engine by the time you went through them all. So you would set them at .014”? The book gives a range of .012”-.014”.
Thanks
|
|
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
|
|
injpumpEd
Orange Level Access
Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Walnut IL
Points: 5177
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: Yesterday at 2:40pm |
|
Probably so. Intake lash usually tightens up over time, exh usually gets loose.
|
|
210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
|
|
Les Kerf
Orange Level
Joined: 08 May 2020
Location: Idaho
Points: 1526
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: Yesterday at 3:04pm |
I would set them cold at 0.014" and forget about it. Back in the day I set the valves on my 1955 Ford with the Y-block 272 hot and running. What a mess!
Son-in-law has a 53 F-350 with a 292 and I just adjusted them to zero clearance cold and then opened them up 1/4 turn. It works out the same 
Edited by Les Kerf - Yesterday at 3:07pm
|
|
AC720Man
Orange Level
Joined: 10 Oct 2016
Location: Shenandoah, Va
Points: 5358
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: Yesterday at 4:39pm |
|
The oily mess was my other concern Les. I’ve adjusted cold on my D17D and other tractors I have but just wanted to get some other opinions. I don’t recall adding any though which I understand why it’s suggested. Thanks to both of you.
Edited by AC720Man - Yesterday at 4:42pm
|
|
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
|
|
Clayfoot
Bronze Level
Joined: 23 Sep 2024
Location: Southern Ohio
Points: 47
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 22 hours 45 minutes ago at 5:56pm |
|
Has anyone done a running lash adjustment on these, or do you get too much oil spray?
Edited by Clayfoot - 22 hours 45 minutes ago at 5:56pm
|
|
Jim.ME
Orange Level
Joined: 19 Nov 2016
Location: Maine
Points: 967
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 20 hours 26 minutes ago at 8:15pm |
|
With a .012 to.014 range l would go .002 over mid-range (.013) and set them at .015 cold.
|
|
Gary Burnett
Orange Level Access
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Virginia
Points: 3153
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 19 hours 41 minutes ago at 9:00pm |
|
For some reason seems like valves get adjusted to tight on old tractors,with low RPM motors like in old tractors I've found a little loose is better than a little tight.
|
|
WF owner
Orange Level
Joined: 12 May 2013
Location: Bombay NY
Points: 5116
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 10 hours 38 minutes ago at 6:03am |
|
DrAllis suggested .015 cold several years ago. Since then, I have always used this setting. No problems, so far.
|
|
DrAllis
Orange Level Access
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Points: 22437
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 10 hours 16 minutes ago at 6:25am |
|
.015" COLD for intakes and exhausts on all West Allis built 4 cylinder engines. While some want to re-invent the method, this has worked for 50 years for me and is EASY to remember and do.
|
|
IBWD MIke
Orange Level
Joined: 08 Apr 2012
Location: Newton Ia.
Points: 4216
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 9 hours 43 minutes ago at 6:58am |
 Clayfoot wrote:
Has anyone done a running lash adjustment on these, or do you get too much oil spray? |
I've seen it done on V-8's with hydraulic lifters. I can not imagine trying to do it on a mechanical lifter cam.
I hate 'hot' valve lash specs. Like Ed said, who's fast enough to get them all set before the engine is cool? I recently set lash on my Farmall 450, they have a hot spec. So I added .002" and set them cold. Will check them after first run at head re-torquing time. Also put the head on the 756 gas yesterday, another hot spec. Will do same procedure as the 450.
|
|
IBWD MIke
Orange Level
Joined: 08 Apr 2012
Location: Newton Ia.
Points: 4216
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 6 hours 45 minutes ago at 9:56am |
I had a learning experience this morning I thought I would relate; Reading the manual for the 756 where it talks about valve lash it has a footnote. It says, "engine warm means any temperature above 32 degrees F.". Well, that's a bit different than my thinking of warm! Guess I'll have another look at the 450 manual and see if it's the same. May be tightening them up a couple thousandth's.
I have no idea if Allis, or any of the other manufacturers for that matter, used this description.
|
|
Les Kerf
Orange Level
Joined: 08 May 2020
Location: Idaho
Points: 1526
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 5 hours 6 minutes ago at 11:35am |
IBWD MIke wrote:
Clayfoot wrote:
Has anyone done a running lash adjustment on these, or do you get too much oil spray? |
I've seen it done on V-8's with hydraulic lifters. I can not imagine trying to do it on a mechanical lifter cam... |
My late Father-in-law had a handful of old beat up feeler guages from his years as a service station mechanic back in 1950's-60's.
As I mentioned above, I have done it on old Fords in my youth but have since been enlightened 
Edited by Les Kerf - 5 hours 4 minutes ago at 11:37am
|
|
injpumpEd
Orange Level Access
Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Walnut IL
Points: 5177
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 2 hours 10 minutes ago at 2:31pm |
|
When I see the valve lash specs, they usually say cold, as in ambient temp, or hot as in engine up to operating temp. I have never seen one give a spec for actual cold temps.
|
|
210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
|
|
Ed (Ont)
Orange Level
Joined: 08 Nov 2009
Location: New Lowell, Ont
Points: 1549
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 27 minutes ago at 4:14pm |
|
I have always done valve sets at ambient temperature. Add .002 to the spec as all others have said!
|
|
