Valve Clearance
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=209675
Printed Date: 11 Jan 2026 at 8:54pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Valve Clearance
Posted By: AC720Man
Subject: Valve Clearance
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2026 at 1:03pm
|
Working on my D14, replacing the valve cover and manifold gaskets. I am going to check the valve clearances and make any adjustments if necessary while I have the valve cover off. Since many components have been removed to prep for paint I can’t start the engine to get it to operational temperature as the manual recommends. Question is, is there a big difference checking them cold versus hot? .012” is what the book calls for. Obviously much easier to check them at this point with all the sheetmetal off, or should I wait until I put it back together to get it up to operational temperature? ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Replies:
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2026 at 2:05pm
|
I always set them cold, and add about .002" to the hot spec. I've never felt I could go through them all quick enough hot to be the same temp from start to finish. ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2026 at 2:36pm
|
I agree with you ED, it wouldn’t be consistent on a hot engine by the time you went through them all. So you would set them at .014”? The book gives a range of .012”-.014”. Thanks ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2026 at 2:40pm
|
Probably so. Intake lash usually tightens up over time, exh usually gets loose. ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: Les Kerf
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2026 at 3:04pm
|
I would set them cold at 0.014" and forget about it. Back in the day I set the valves on my 1955 Ford with the Y-block 272 hot and running. What a mess! Son-in-law has a 53 F-350 with a 292 and I just adjusted them to zero clearance cold and then opened them up 1/4 turn. It works out the same
 |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2026 at 4:39pm
|
The oily mess was my other concern Les. I’ve adjusted cold on my D17D and other tractors I have but just wanted to get some other opinions. I don’t recall adding any though which I understand why it’s suggested. Thanks to both of you. ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: Clayfoot
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2026 at 5:56pm
| Has anyone done a running lash adjustment on these, or do you get too much oil spray? |
Posted By: Jim.ME
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2026 at 8:15pm
| With a .012 to.014 range l would go .002 over mid-range (.013) and set them at .015 cold. |