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SGTJ 
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Joined: 15 Apr 2019
Location: La Valle, WI
Points: 106
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 Topic: WD Brake Repair
Posted: 06 Feb 2020 at 10:06am |
So the brake linkage on my WD (from the right pedal, to the actual brake assembly) snapped. it looks like it was threaded into the brake assembly, and snapped off flush at the threads inside the tractor. Trying to figure out the best way to go about repairing it. I've looked at parts brake-downs for the brake assembly , and I think I know where the linkage is supposed to be threaded into -- though I have no idea how to actually go about the repair. thanks - SGT J
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WD , CA
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CTuckerNWIL
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: NW Illinois
Points: 22810
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Posted: 06 Feb 2020 at 10:38am |
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This will give you some idea of how to get started. [TUBE]nKIJNiCH6p8[/TUBE]
Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 06 Feb 2020 at 10:39am
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TimCNY
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Joined: 15 Apr 2014
Location: Upstate NY
Points: 1551
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Posted: 06 Feb 2020 at 12:53pm |
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lol... YOU, Sgt J, are in for an education you'll NEVER forget! It's worth it. Just - well, Rachel's working on a D-Series Allis, a search here will give you TONS of great information. Best wishes on your project!
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I need more than 200 characters for my "signature." I'd love to see that changed to 250!
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levipatch
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Joined: 05 Jan 2019
Location: North carolina
Points: 46
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Posted: 06 Feb 2020 at 2:00pm |
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If you need quick fix now... Take a 5/16 rod, bend L shaped with catch on end .... on the end that will go into hole, Hook it by feel on The threaded block inside.. Attach remainder of rod to old brake rod under ,,,, tension from spring... Take up slack,,, Weld or clamp ..Will work decent for long time...This could be under REDNECK repair.. I suppose I will catch Blo back from here...., but it works.
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Billy..Big cam 300, bcam 400,,941 CAT.,,Deere excavator..900 row crop.. 66 D 17 diesel IV... 985 Pratt and Whitney..4360 Pratt and Whitney... gitten tired !
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CTuckerNWIL
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: NW Illinois
Points: 22810
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Posted: 06 Feb 2020 at 2:51pm |
 TimCNY wrote:
lol... YOU, Sgt J, are in for an education you'll NEVER forget! It's worth it. Just - well, Rachel's working on a D-Series Allis, a search here will give you TONS of great information. Best wishes on your project! |
The D series she is working on, has pretty much the same brakes as a WD or a 45.
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AaronSEIA
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Mt Pleasant, IA
Points: 2533
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Posted: 06 Feb 2020 at 3:42pm |
CTuckerNWIL wrote:
TimCNY wrote:
lol... YOU, Sgt J, are in for an education you'll NEVER forget! It's worth it. Just - well, Rachel's working on a D-Series Allis, a search here will give you TONS of great information. Best wishes on your project! |
The D series she is working on, has pretty much the same brakes as a WD or a 45.
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Its actually identical. Part numbers are the same for the WD, WD45, and D17 prior to series 3. AaronSEIA
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B26240
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Joined: 21 Nov 2009
Location: mn
Points: 3860
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Posted: 06 Feb 2020 at 3:52pm |
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If the infamous pin comes out fairly easy it's not that bad, however if the pin "bottom most ancor pin" is like the ones I have done it is in my opinion the most difficult job there is on one of these tractors. When you get done doing both sides on one of these it is the most satisfying feeling, right up there with your first girlfriend experience. Keep us posted as to how it goes !!
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Sugarmaker
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Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
Points: 8168
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Posted: 06 Feb 2020 at 4:03pm |
I like Levi's suggestion. as a quick fix. That would allow the hook rod to pull on the brake. To do the entire brake job you need to pull the bottom brake pin out it can vary from a 0 to a 10 on the Rictor scale. Its not fun, but if I can do it you can too. Once that pin is out the brakes come out the top. The pin: This is the end result you want. Regards, Chris
Edited by Sugarmaker - 06 Feb 2020 at 4:04pm
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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TimCNY
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Joined: 15 Apr 2014
Location: Upstate NY
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Posted: 06 Feb 2020 at 4:22pm |
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Right, I wasn't implying that, just that if Sgt. J noticed it wasn't a WD, he wouldn't think there was an issue with it being a different model. Sorry for causing any confusion!
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I need more than 200 characters for my "signature." I'd love to see that changed to 250!
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Brian G. NY
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: 12194
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Posted: 06 Feb 2020 at 5:07pm |
Well, let's hope your experience is better than most....maybe you'll get lucky and those pins will come right out for you. I've had mixed results.....from almost impossible to real easy. I've done my WD, WD-45 and D-17 (series II) which are all basically the same. One thing to keep in mind with the WD & WD-45 is that the distance between the "toggle pin" at the brake shoes and the brake pedal is critical for optimum leverage when applying brakes.
Here is a quote from the manual:
"Replace pedal rod turning into toggle until front edge of toggle is 16-5/16" from nearest edge of hole in rod. This can be measured through rod opening in bottom of housing. Do not use this rod as a brake adjustment, as it will upset the leverage on pedal".
The last sentence is key for good brake operation.
Good luck!
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Stan IL&TN
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Elvis Land
Points: 6730
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Posted: 06 Feb 2020 at 10:05pm |
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Start soaking those pins now with your favorite monkey snot. Patience is your friend. If not use the cutting torch.
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1957 WD45 dad's first AC
1968 one-seventy
1956 F40 Ferguson
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Lon(MN)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Elk River,MN
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Posted: 07 Feb 2020 at 6:51am |
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I have a couple shelves full of brake parts and surfaced brake drums if you want to rebuild the brake.
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TimCNY
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Location: Upstate NY
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Posted: 07 Feb 2020 at 9:04am |
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I think it was Ray (?) from Sandy Lake who told me that when those tractors' brakes were designed it was with them being worked hard enough to require brake replacement every 4 years or so in mind. Pins generally don't rust-freeze in 3 or 4 years. So, to keep them from seizing in place (obviously use anti-seize when reinstalling), a yearly rotation of the pin and SLIGHT in-out (about 1/4"-1/2") will generally keep them free enough for when they do need a complete overhaul. Makes sense to me, that's what I'm doing.
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I need more than 200 characters for my "signature." I'd love to see that changed to 250!
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TimCNY
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Location: Upstate NY
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Posted: 07 Feb 2020 at 9:04am |
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Actually, it may have been Rick Corder who told me that when I was ordering brake shoes from him. Either way, sound advice (and explanation).
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I need more than 200 characters for my "signature." I'd love to see that changed to 250!
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SGTJ
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Joined: 15 Apr 2019
Location: La Valle, WI
Points: 106
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Posted: 07 Feb 2020 at 1:05pm |
Geez …… I was really hoping someone would say something along the lines of "yeah not a big job, just need to drill out the old rod left behind" Watching the video, and looking around online … this would appear to be semi-major surgery
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WD , CA
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Stan IL&TN
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Elvis Land
Points: 6730
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Posted: 07 Feb 2020 at 1:47pm |
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You may get lucky. On my 45 one came out in 10 minutes and the other took two weeks with multiple heating with a torch before it ever moved using a small pipe wrench to ask nicely.
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1957 WD45 dad's first AC
1968 one-seventy
1956 F40 Ferguson
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Lonn
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Joined: 16 Sep 2009
Location: Назарово,Russia
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Posted: 07 Feb 2020 at 2:04pm |
It just takes a little determination is all 
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Sugarmaker
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Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
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Posted: 07 Feb 2020 at 2:15pm |
SGTJ, This may go fine and the pins will come right out, if they do, your golden! If not, set down put your head in your hands and moan for a little while. May not help much but maybe you will feel better. I had 50% success on the one and only WD series tractor I did the brakes on. The other issue that you may or may not have is that the seals in the final drives on each side of the differential go bad about this time and fixing those while your in there is a good idea. Also there is the famous cracked brake drum saga too. So on the one brake pin that came out the drum on that side was cracked! I have some pictures of all of it if they will help. We wish you the best! Keep us informed. We love to hear about brake jobs on these! Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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SGTJ
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Location: La Valle, WI
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Posted: 10 Feb 2020 at 3:14pm |
So, Since this is going to be a little bit larger of a project then I intended. I'm looking for some more advice. I plan on using this tractor to put up about 35 acres of hay this summer, as well as general use around the farm. If I'm going to take a few days off to tackle this project, what else would you recommend I do to get this think back to peak performance ? Its pretty much in its original '52 state - hasn't had a much use in the last 20 years. Basically - instead of buying a new tractor - and giving myself a 2 weeks and $1,000 what would you recommend I do to my WD before I start using hard. - Already did a complete fluid change - Brakes - Carb Rebuild - New Gaskets ? (because it drips in a few places, like they all do)
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WD , CA
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graveyard
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Joined: 23 Mar 2011
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Posted: 24 Mar 2020 at 7:16am |
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Can this be done on a series I d 17 without pulling the axle?
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SteveM C/IL
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Shelbyville IL
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Posted: 24 Mar 2020 at 9:12pm |
graveyard wrote:
Can this be done on a series I d 17 without pulling the axle? |
Yes. Brake drums are another story. That's when the final drive comes off. Removing drum can be fun too.
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 25 Mar 2020 at 11:22am |
SGTJ, We ran tractors with no or one brake for many hours. You just have to be more careful. Brakes are always a good safety thing to have, I would not discourage you from doing them but it can be a challange. If you do inspect the brake drums for cracks. wipe down with some gass and it will show the cracks if any. I did change one brake drum and it was easier than taking the lower pin out on one side of the WD45. I broke it off in pieces and then cut the hub of the drum in half at the keyway. A couple hits and the drum was off. The new one (from Sandy Lake) was heated and slipped on to the shaft. Regards, Chris |
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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