Trying to figure out the best way to go about repairing it.   I've looked at parts brake-downs for the brake assembly , and I think I know where the linkage is supposed to be threaded into -- though I have no idea how to actually go about the repair.

 

thanks - SGT J

Its actually identical.  Part numbers are the same for the WD, WD45, and D17 prior to series 3.

AaronSEIA

To do the entire brake job you need to pull the bottom brake pin out it can vary from a 0 to a 10 on the Rictor scale. Its not fun, but if I can do it you can too. Once that pin is out the brakes come out the top.

The pin:

This is the end result you want.

Regards,

 Chris

One thing to keep in mind with the WD & WD-45 is that the distance between the "toggle pin" at the brake shoes and the brake pedal is critical for optimum leverage when applying brakes.

Here is a quote from the manual:

"Replace pedal rod turning into toggle until front edge of toggle is 16-5/16" from nearest edge of hole in rod. This can be measured through rod opening in bottom of housing.

Do not use this rod as a brake adjustment, as it will upset the leverage on pedal".

The last sentence is key for good brake operation.

Good luck!

 

 

I was really hoping someone would say something along the lines of    "yeah not a big job, just need to drill out the old rod left behind"  

 

 

Watching the video, and looking around online …  this would appear to be semi-major surgery

This may go fine and the pins will come right out, if they do, your golden! If not, set down put your head in your hands and moan for a little while. May not help much but maybe you will feel better. I had 50% success on the one and only WD series tractor I did the brakes on. The other issue that you may or may not have is that the seals in the final drives on each side of the differential go bad about this time and fixing those while your in there is a good idea. Also there is the famous cracked brake drum saga too. So on the one brake pin that came out the drum on that side was cracked! I have some pictures of all of it if they will help. 

We wish you the best! Keep us informed. We love to hear about brake jobs on these!

Regards,

 Chris

 

Since this is going to be a little bit larger of a project then I intended.  I'm looking for some more advice.

 

I plan on using this tractor to put up about 35 acres of hay this summer, as well as general use around the farm.  If I'm going to take a few days off to tackle this project, what else would you recommend I do to get this think back to peak performance ? Its pretty much in its original '52 state - hasn't had a much use in the last 20 years.

 

Basically - instead of buying a new tractor - and giving myself a 2 weeks and $1,000

 

what would you recommend I do to my WD before I start using hard.

 

- Already did a complete fluid change

 

- Brakes

- Carb Rebuild

- New Gaskets ?  (because it drips in a few places, like they all do)

 

 

 

 

 

 

Yes. Brake drums are another story. That's when the final drive comes off. Removing drum can be fun too.

We ran tractors with no or one brake for many hours. You just have to be more careful. Brakes are always a good safety thing to have, I would not discourage you from doing them but it can be a challange. If you do inspect the brake drums for cracks. wipe down with some gass and it will show the cracks if any. I did change one brake drum and it was easier than taking the lower pin out on one side of the WD45. I broke it off in pieces and then cut the hub of the drum in half at the keyway. A couple hits and the drum was off.