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DEP5 
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Joined: 25 Jan 2012
Location: Tipton, IN
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 Topic: D17 Series IV starter solenoid
Posted: 25 Jan 2012 at 9:54pm |
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For 1966 D17 series IV gas tractor, I have a question about the 4-wire external starter solenoid.
The 1967 Dealer Parts catalog (Form D-91) shows part number 241265 on page 85 and then on page 93 it shows part number 237134. Which is correct? What is the original Delco Remy part number? Thanks
PS: UPDATE . .This is what I have learned.
Delco Remy 1114208 is the number stamped on the 4-terminal all steel body. The solenoid is stamped with letters I (ignition) and S (starter) next to the small terminals and has a built in resistor bypass circuit. The solenoid must be grounded in order to function. NAPA has a combination plastic & steel housing version-ST81 (intermittent duty) $25 or ST80 (continuous duty) about $60.
Edited by DEP5 - 26 Jan 2012 at 1:28pm
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D10 Series III, fully optioned
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Ryan Renko
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Posted: 25 Jan 2012 at 10:02pm |
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I dont know of hand any part numbers but I priced one for my series IV and agco wanted like $90.00!!!!! They most likely dont even make the part so I'm curious also about another source. Thanks for the post!! Ryan
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Richardmo
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Posted: 25 Jan 2012 at 10:48pm |
I got one from Sandy lake implement about 3 months ago it was $86.97
Here there phone # 724 376 2498
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Travis(NE)
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Posted: 25 Jan 2012 at 11:35pm |
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If you don't care about correctness go to any auto parts store or eBay and get one for any mid 70's Ford for around $20 bucks give or take.
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TexasAllis
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Posted: 26 Jan 2012 at 7:04am |
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I just bought one from an autoparts store for $20.00. Side by side it is almost identical to the delco.
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1944 Allis C
1960 Allis D-17 LP
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MACK
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Posted: 26 Jan 2012 at 7:19am |
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There is 2 different 4 post solenoids. The 4th wire is a ground for a continuis operated solenoid. The other 4th wire solenoid goes to coil to provide 12v to coil while starter is engauged. MACK
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 26 Jan 2012 at 7:35am |
 TexasAllis wrote:
I just bought one from an autoparts store for $20.00. Side by side it is almost identical to the delco. |
What store? Got a part number and manufacturer?
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Richardmo
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Posted: 26 Jan 2012 at 10:01am |
Yeah i would also like the part # or store you used i have 2 more series 4 that will need the same part.
I could not find a 4 wire connection on ebay lots of three wire.
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DEP5
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Posted: 26 Jan 2012 at 10:33am |
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From what I can determine, this application takes a 12v grounded solenoid that contains a resistor shorting circuit.
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D10 Series III, fully optioned
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Longmeadow Farm
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Posted: 26 Jan 2012 at 1:04pm |
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Get the part number off your Delco starter and go on e-bay. I just purchased a new solenoid for my AC 175D for 15 bucks plus 7 bucks for shipping. I try and stay as far away from AGCO as I can...
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DEP5
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Posted: 26 Jan 2012 at 1:18pm |
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UPDATE . .This is what I have learned.
Delco Remy 1114208 is the number stamped on the 4-terminal all steel
body. The solenoid is stamped with letters I (ignition) and S (starter)
next to the small terminals and has a built in resistor bypass circuit.
The solenoid must be grounded in order to function. NAPA has a
combination plastic & steel housing version-ST81 (intermittent duty)
$25 or steel housing like original-ST80 (continuous duty) about $60.
Edited by DEP5 - 26 Jan 2012 at 3:56pm
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D10 Series III, fully optioned
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Steve in NJ
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Posted: 26 Jan 2012 at 2:31pm |
Its like anything else. You get what you pay for. A $20. relay is just what it is. It probably won't last to long in service. For that type of application, you need a HD relay that will kick in, and quickly kick out and stay in service a long time. I have HD relays on the shelf for the "D" series Tractors. They are HD, and they are not twenty bucks either. A good heavy relay will run in the range of $45.-$90 bucks depending on its application, but its a one purchase deal when you buy a good one. The relays I have I believe run around $60. bucks if I remember correctly. Its been a while since I sold one. Just the wieght alone between the twenty dollar unit and the sixty dollar unit will explain the difference. Drop me an e-mail if interested.. We have anything electrical for the Tractors in stock...
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TexasAllis
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Posted: 26 Jan 2012 at 3:07pm |
CTuckerNWIL wrote:
TexasAllis wrote:
I just bought one from an autoparts store for $20.00. Side by side it is almost identical to the delco. |
What store? Got a part number and manufacturer?
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O'Reilly auto parts. I don't recall the brand but I will look when I get home and see if I can tell what it is.
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1944 Allis C
1960 Allis D-17 LP
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DEP5
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Posted: 31 Jan 2012 at 11:31am |
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The NAPA counterman quoted an Echlin ST80 (continuous duty), steel body like original, about $60.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
I find the 4-termnial ST80 does NOT have the small terminals marked as "S" and "I". One small terminal has to be grounded for it to work with the starter circuit and the ignition bypass feature would be lost.
When the original Delco Remy solenoid is grounded and 12v is applied to the "S" terminal, the coil engages to power the starter and the "I" terminal provides 12v to the coil, bypassing the ignition resistor.
Edited by DEP5 - 31 Jan 2012 at 11:32am
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 31 Jan 2012 at 1:46pm |
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"Keep your GM tractor all GM"
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Bds86
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Posted: 02 Jul 2025 at 6:08pm |
Ancient thread but hoping for assistance with a similar issue. Thanks to the advice from previous replies I've got the right part in but the wiring isn't quite right. AC 170 starter solenoid wiring I am far from a mechanic and trying to figure out what's wrong. I took over repairs from my uncle who has fallen ill. Right now the tractor starts but the starter motor continues to run after ignition. I've tried different combinations but nothing is resolving the issue. Total hail Mary but hoping someone can lend an eye. Unfortunately, I do not have a picture of the original wiring. Black in picture was added to ground to frame. 
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Alex09(WI)
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Posted: 02 Jul 2025 at 11:24pm |
We sell and use the OEM Allis-Chalmers brand solenoid. We have used several in our service dept and never had an issue.
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www.awtractor.com
A&W TRACTOR 920-598-1287
KEEPING ALLIS-CHALMERS IN THE FIELDS THROUGH THE 21ST CENTURY
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WF owner
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Posted: 03 Jul 2025 at 6:05am |
Bds86 wrote:
Ancient thread but hoping for assistance with a similar issue. Thanks to the advice from previous replies I've got the right part in but the wiring isn't quite right.
AC 170 starter solenoid wiring
I am far from a mechanic and trying to figure out what's wrong. I took over repairs from my uncle who has fallen ill. Right now the tractor starts but the starter motor continues to run after ignition. I've tried different combinations but nothing is resolving the issue.
Total hail Mary but hoping someone can lend an eye. Unfortunately, I do not have a picture of the original wiring.
Black in picture was added to ground to frame.
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Your picture is so large, it's hard to tell if the problem is in the wiring.
When you turn the key to the "ON" position, does the starter immediately start turning or do you have to push the start button (or turn the key) to activate the starter? I think the 170 has a start button, but it could have a start position on the key switch. Regardless, if you have to push the start button (or go to the start position on the key) to activate the starter, it is most likely wired correctly.
If the engine starts and the starter motor continues to turn, I will suspect that either the starter drive is binding and not allowing the spring to retract the gear from the ring gear, or the solenoid is defective and keeping the starter energized after the start button is released.
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Les Kerf
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Posted: 03 Jul 2025 at 8:13am |
Bds86 wrote:
...
Black in picture was added to ground to frame... |
That doesn't look right to me  Edit: Is this an OEM part or some random solenoid from an auto parts store?
Edited by Les Kerf - 03 Jul 2025 at 8:26am
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Bds86
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Posted: 03 Jul 2025 at 9:04am |
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Thank you for the feedback! It's definitely push button start and starter stays engaged.
Sorry about the large picture. Not sure why it didn't crop. I've tried 2 NAPA solenoids as others discussed here. ST80 had the same issue so I've tried ST67(in picture) which has the I and S labeled posts. Both small wires are on one post and the other needs a ground wire back to the tab mount screw or frame. I was also under the impression it grounds through the tabs.Without that wire theres power to the key but the ignition button does nothing.
I was just told this morning that the solenoid issue happened shortly after replacing the battery but I'm not sure how a battery could've caused an issue? Might have shorted something.
If I bypass the wire spliced to the small post to the other side of the large solenoid, it fires and starter disengages but I have to disconnect that bypass to kill the engine.
All very confusing to me and either the part is totally wrong and I'll order off Agco, or it's going to take some wire tracing.
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Les Kerf
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Posted: 03 Jul 2025 at 11:19am |
Bds86 wrote:
... It's definitely push button start and starter stays engaged... |
The solenoid is getting feedback from the ignition (resistor/coil) side
Bds86 wrote:
... ST67(in picture) which has the I and S labeled posts. Both small wires are on one post and the other needs a ground wire back to the tab mount screw or frame. |
The small wire running from the resistor to the "S" terminal needs to be moved to the "I" terminal; this is causing the feedback which is keeping the solenoid energized.
Bds86 wrote:
I was also under the impression it grounds through the tabs.Without that wire theres power to the key but the ignition button does nothing. |
The small black wire that is on the "I" terminal needs to be removed and may need to be connected to the mounting tab to provide a good ground.
Edited by Les Kerf - 03 Jul 2025 at 11:20am
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DrAllis
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Posted: 03 Jul 2025 at 12:33pm |
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Wired incorrectly. Push button starter wire to "S" on the relay. Double wire connection on the resister goes to the "I" terminal on the relay and also goes to the coil on the engine. Whatever that black wire is get rid of it.
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Glenn (NJ)
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Posted: 03 Jul 2025 at 4:10pm |
I had a similar experience replacing the relay on my Series IV. That relay is an overseas copy that the guy making them didn't get it quite right. The "I" and "S" on that case do not mean anything - they just happened to be on the case that was copied. If you disconnect the wires from both small terminals and then meter across them you will find that you have the two ends of the coil That is why you needed the black wire to the tab to make it work. Les has it right that the ignition circuit is back feeding keeping the relay closed.
Toss it out and get the correct relay from one of the vendors on this site.
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Les Kerf
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Posted: 03 Jul 2025 at 7:26pm |
Glenn (NJ) wrote:
I had a similar experience replacing the relay on my Series IV. That relay is an overseas copy that the guy making them didn't get it quite right. The "I" and "S" on that case do not mean anything - they just happened to be on the case that was copied. If you disconnect the wires from both small terminals and then meter across them you will find that you have the two ends of the coil... |
Yikes!  I was working on the assumption that the relay is correctly assembled... 
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DrAllis
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Posted: 03 Jul 2025 at 8:04pm |
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IT IS WIRED WRONG !! Let's get the wires where they actually belong before condemning the second starter relay. The BLACK wire has to go away if it is a ground wire. It appears to be homemade. The thick single vertical wire (white in color if you remove the orange over spray) on the rear post gets moved to the front post. The double wire that goes to the resistor stays where it is. Once it is wired correctly, always be suspect of a starter push button switch if the rubber is worn away where your thumb pushes it. It could be sticking and keeping the starter spinning when it shouldn't be. But, get the wiring corrected first.
Edited by DrAllis - 03 Jul 2025 at 8:40pm
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