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Justthemechanic190 
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Joined: 09 Feb 2016
Location: Toulon
Points: 29
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 Topic: 190xt pulling hitch
Posted: 09 Feb 2016 at 5:24pm |
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Does anybody have any pics of their hitches.
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O.P.S. Heads
Orange Level Access
Joined: 02 Jan 2013
Location: Iowa
Points: 579
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Posted: 10 Feb 2016 at 8:13am |
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This may help give you some ideas:
http://www.acechassis.com/200_allis.html
This one is pretty elaborate.
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DougG
Orange Level
Joined: 20 Sep 2009
Location: Mo
Points: 8371
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Posted: 10 Feb 2016 at 3:19pm |
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What kind of pulling you doing? Farm, hot farm, or all out getting it?
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Acllss puller
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Joined: 02 Oct 2013
Location: Ny
Points: 181
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Posted: 10 Feb 2016 at 7:42pm |
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Send me your ph. number and I'll text you what we built, mine is on a 180 but same bolt pattern ad a 190.
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injpumpEd
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Walnut IL
Points: 5115
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Posted: 11 Feb 2016 at 7:10am |
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Wow, the Ace chassis link shows a really nice build. I was totally drooling until I saw it painted. I'm a fan of keeping the stock type decal. But it is still a great looking tractor!
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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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O.P.S. Heads
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Joined: 02 Jan 2013
Location: Iowa
Points: 579
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Posted: 11 Feb 2016 at 8:47am |
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A hitch for a 180 - 185 with the final drives turned back will be different than a hitch for a 190 - 200. Yes the bolt pattern on the rear plate is the same, but the length of the hitch from the plate back is longer for the 180 - 185 to account for the wheel centers being moved rearward.
Edited by O.P.S. Heads - 11 Feb 2016 at 8:52am
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2wise4agm
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Joined: 19 Aug 2011
Location: Smithton, MO
Points: 538
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Posted: 12 Feb 2016 at 6:34am |
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If you pm me a phone number I can text you some pics of mine. It's just way easier than trying to put them on here.
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Justthemechanic190
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Joined: 09 Feb 2016
Location: Toulon
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Posted: 14 Feb 2016 at 12:57pm |
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This will be on a Farm stock puller
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DougG
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Joined: 20 Sep 2009
Location: Mo
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Posted: 14 Feb 2016 at 3:18pm |
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Best way ive done was take the original drawbar off, take the thick piece where the original drawbar hangs on with the curve , take the 4 bolts out , flip it over, reinstall the bolts, then have a steel drawbar made 3in wide-3/4 inch thick material with a D ring made of 1 inch thick bar material with at least a 3.5 inch hole; measure the original pin where the drawbar hooks too back to the flipped over mounting point and add 6 inches just to be on the safe side; that will be the new drawbar length, then slide the new drawbar into the original mounting bracket, mark it just so the D Ring hole is flush with the flipped over piece on the back , that's where your hole needs to be in the new drawbar; wish I had a pic its really very easy to do; shim it up to 20 inches, make a strap across the new drawbar bolt it down and your ready to hook;
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