1945 G model Carburetor

Each company has their own timing and cylinder order - fire... 1243, or 1324 are common.. Dont feel bad.... its easy once you know WHAT your working on !!

Like them all, but love the "B"s.

I want to update this thread, in case anyone else runs into this problem.

Someone had the timing out and the plugs wired backwards.

Now, each time I pull the starter, she starts up and runs beautifully.

Thank you all for the help and info, and I promise you, I won't be working on anymore in the future. I will stick to cars. lol

first, that is a replacement aftermarket carb,

as for firing order-

Allis Express North Georgia
41 WC,48 UC Cane,7-G's,
Ford 345C TLB

So, since the other day, this little tractor has not run at all. It would run for a few seconds, but act like it was running out of fuel and die. I pulled the carburetor back off and completely went through it. I even replaced the main jet with a new one. I think it is time to slow down, get back to basics, and see what I am missing.

When setting the timing, I put the number one cylinder to top dead center, and the mark on the crank pulley is at 6 o' clock position. I then adjust the distributor to where the points are starting to open on number one. I did notice the points are not contacting evenly. I plan to fix this today. After setting the timing, I set the points to .020. I OHM tested my plug wires and they are all good. I adjusted the carb main jet to one full turn out, and the air mixture to 1.5 turns out. I am waiting on new 295 spark plugs, and a capacitor for the points. I performed a leak down test, compression test, and checked the valve adjustment. All three were good.

If this little tractor doesn't run this time, I plan to set it on fire. (j/k)

I did another leak down test and it was good. No air coming from anywhere at all. I used 100 psi.

What the- crazy!

This is my actual main jet and nozzle. I found a diagram that says there is supposed to be a power jet in-between these two. If so, mine is missing.

This is what mine looks like.

#49 the POWER JET is made into the PLUG...... What is plugging that hole ?

Edited by steve(ill) - 27 Jun 2025 at 7:55pm

Like them all, but love the "B"s.

I tried a new coil and condenser, with no luck.

If going over the points mentioned yields no improvement, I'd also check for any intake leaks by spraying brake cleaner or similar around the manifold gaskets while it's running. Try it when cold and as it gets warm and is about to die, could be a gap opening up with temperature change.

Would definitely get rid of the ballast resistor as a priority, unlikely to have damaged the coil running it reverse polarity.

Stuck Farmer

Thanks, I will go over the wiring again this evening.

It did have a new 12v coil but someone wired it backwards, so I ordered another one and will replace it tomorrow.

To update-

If I take the plugs out and clean them, let it sit overnight, it will run for a few minutes but shuts off and will not restart. It tries, but won't. I am running out of options with this thing.

I thought that relay was not needed now.

So, here is where I am now.

It will start up and run for 3-5 minutes beautifully. After the 3-5 minutes, it acts like it is running out of fuel and shuts off. I pulled the fuel line, and it is getting a great supply of fuel. I have been through the carburetor twice and know it is all good.

I did install a ballast resistor between the ignition voltage wire and + coil post. When I check the voltage, I have battery voltage on the wire coming into the resistor and 8.3 volts coming out of the resistor. Do I even need this resistor installed? I only did it because this tractor was originally 6v system, and I didn't want to overload the points with voltage.

When I put my spark tester inline on the number one cylinder, it looks as if I have a weak spark. This could also be where someone wired up the coil backwards originally and did damage to the coil, couldn't it?

I really appreciate all the help with this thing. It belongs to my 80-year-old neighbor and I am doing this work for free.

The cut out is for the 6v charging system. If it has a 12v alternator no need to connect. I started my initial carb adjustment at 1 1/2 turns out.

Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK!

check the valve lash

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steve(ill) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 87187	Post Options Post Reply Quote steve(ill) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: 1945 G model Carburetor Posted: 10 Jul 2025 at 6:27pm
	Each company has their own timing and cylinder order - fire... 1243, or 1324 are common.. Dont feel bad.... its easy once you know WHAT your working on !!
	Like them all, but love the "B"s.

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Lynn Marshall Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Dana, Iowa Points: 2367	Post Options Post Reply Quote Lynn Marshall Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 10 Jul 2025 at 6:21pm
	John, most cars have engines too and they can all have their own set of issues to make them run properly. After going through the Allis engine,I think you can now appreciate the simplicity of their design and if you had to do it again, it would be much easier to diagnose an get running. Remember the Allis edict,KNOWLEDGE IS POWER! Glad you got her going.

cabinfourus Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 03 Jun 2025 Location: Asheville, NC Points: 24	Post Options Post Reply Quote cabinfourus Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 10 Jul 2025 at 4:53pm
	I want to update this thread, in case anyone else runs into this problem. Someone had the timing out and the plugs wired backwards. Now, each time I pull the starter, she starts up and runs beautifully. Thank you all for the help and info, and I promise you, I won't be working on anymore in the future. I will stick to cars. lol

cabinfourus Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 03 Jun 2025 Location: Asheville, NC Points: 24	Post Options Post Reply Quote cabinfourus Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 10 Jul 2025 at 2:17pm
	So it would seem, someone has wired it backwards. I will rewire it today, and post my results.

JoeM(GA) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Cumming,GA Points: 4795	Post Options Post Reply Quote JoeM(GA) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 08 Jul 2025 at 11:07am
	first, that is a replacement aftermarket carb, as for firing order-
	Allis Express North Georgia 41 WC,48 UC Cane,7-G's, Ford 345C TLB

cabinfourus Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 03 Jun 2025 Location: Asheville, NC Points: 24	Post Options Post Reply Quote cabinfourus Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 08 Jul 2025 at 9:06am
	Is the number one cylinder located just behind the radiator, or near the crank pulley? Are the cylinders in a 1234 order starting from the radiator?

cabinfourus Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 03 Jun 2025 Location: Asheville, NC Points: 24	Post Options Post Reply Quote cabinfourus Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 08 Jul 2025 at 9:00am
	So, since the other day, this little tractor has not run at all. It would run for a few seconds, but act like it was running out of fuel and die. I pulled the carburetor back off and completely went through it. I even replaced the main jet with a new one. I think it is time to slow down, get back to basics, and see what I am missing. When setting the timing, I put the number one cylinder to top dead center, and the mark on the crank pulley is at 6 o' clock position. I then adjust the distributor to where the points are starting to open on number one. I did notice the points are not contacting evenly. I plan to fix this today. After setting the timing, I set the points to .020. I OHM tested my plug wires and they are all good. I adjusted the carb main jet to one full turn out, and the air mixture to 1.5 turns out. I am waiting on new 295 spark plugs, and a capacitor for the points. I performed a leak down test, compression test, and checked the valve adjustment. All three were good. If this little tractor doesn't run this time, I plan to set it on fire. (j/k)

cabinfourus Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 03 Jun 2025 Location: Asheville, NC Points: 24	Post Options Post Reply Quote cabinfourus Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 08 Jul 2025 at 8:49am
	I just ordered a capacitor for this thing. Who knows at this point.

cabinfourus Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 03 Jun 2025 Location: Asheville, NC Points: 24	Post Options Post Reply Quote cabinfourus Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 08 Jul 2025 at 8:45am
	I did another leak down test and it was good. No air coming from anywhere at all. I used 100 psi.

cabinfourus Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 03 Jun 2025 Location: Asheville, NC Points: 24	Post Options Post Reply Quote cabinfourus Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 08 Jul 2025 at 8:39am
	Does it have the wrong carburetor on it? I have thought this from the start. Can someone confirm the firing order for me, and the cylinder order starting from the fan? Firing order 1342 Cylinder order from fan 1234

DougG Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 20 Sep 2009 Location: Mo Points: 8309	Post Options Post Reply Quote DougG Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 28 Jun 2025 at 4:38pm
	What the- crazy!

cabinfourus Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 03 Jun 2025 Location: Asheville, NC Points: 24	Post Options Post Reply Quote cabinfourus Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 28 Jun 2025 at 3:16pm
	I circled it in red.

cabinfourus Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 03 Jun 2025 Location: Asheville, NC Points: 24	Post Options Post Reply Quote cabinfourus Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 28 Jun 2025 at 3:10pm
	This is my actual main jet and nozzle. I found a diagram that says there is supposed to be a power jet in-between these two. If so, mine is missing.

cabinfourus Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 03 Jun 2025 Location: Asheville, NC Points: 24	Post Options Post Reply Quote cabinfourus Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 28 Jun 2025 at 9:24am
	To be honest, I am not sure if they have or not. The engine was overhauled a year ago, but I don't know what all was replaced. I did a leak down test @ 100 psi, and everything was good. I will do another one Monday just to eliminate this. Thanks

cabinfourus Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 03 Jun 2025 Location: Asheville, NC Points: 24	Post Options Post Reply Quote cabinfourus Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 28 Jun 2025 at 9:15am
	This is what mine looks like.

HudCo Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 29 Jan 2013 Location: Plymouth Utah Points: 3868	Post Options Post Reply Quote HudCo Report Post Thanks(1) Quote Reply Posted: 27 Jun 2025 at 9:49pm
	do a leak down test its a 75 year old flat head and the valve seats are in the block so thats the last thing to get rebiult , probley never been ground

steve(ill) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 87187	Post Options Post Reply Quote steve(ill) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 27 Jun 2025 at 7:54pm
	#49 the POWER JET is made into the PLUG...... What is plugging that hole ? Edited by steve(ill) - 27 Jun 2025 at 7:55pm
	Like them all, but love the "B"s.

steve(ill) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 87187	Post Options Post Reply Quote steve(ill) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 27 Jun 2025 at 7:52pm
	Allis G carb.... https://www.carburetor-blog.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/TSV-13.pdf
	Like them all, but love the "B"s.

cabinfourus Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 03 Jun 2025 Location: Asheville, NC Points: 24	Post Options Post Reply Quote cabinfourus Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 27 Jun 2025 at 1:07pm
	I tried a new coil and condenser, with no luck.

cabinfourus Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 03 Jun 2025 Location: Asheville, NC Points: 24	Post Options Post Reply Quote cabinfourus Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 27 Jun 2025 at 1:03pm
	Fingers crossed, I hope someone smarter than me can verify my find. These G tractors use the TSV 13 carburetor. It seems there are different versions though. Some use a power jet, idle jet, etc. The carburetor I have has been taken off and cleaned a few times, and I believe someone left the power jet out by mistake. Can someone verify that the 1952 G model carburetors have the power jet in them? And, if so, where can I get one? My carb has the adjustable main jet on the bottom of it, with the main nozzle meeting it on the inside, but there is a gap between them, and this is why I am thinking the power jet is missing. Edited by cabinfourus - 27 Jun 2025 at 1:06pm

ekjdm14 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 20 Aug 2024 Location: Alsager UK Points: 975	Post Options Post Reply Quote ekjdm14 Report Post Thanks(1) Quote Reply Posted: 27 Jun 2025 at 4:35am
	If going over the points mentioned yields no improvement, I'd also check for any intake leaks by spraying brake cleaner or similar around the manifold gaskets while it's running. Try it when cold and as it gets warm and is about to die, could be a gap opening up with temperature change. Would definitely get rid of the ballast resistor as a priority, unlikely to have damaged the coil running it reverse polarity.
	Stuck Farmer

steve(ill) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 87187	Post Options Post Reply Quote steve(ill) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 25 Jun 2025 at 3:39pm
	Probably coil or condenser getting hot and opening up.....use 12v coil and no resistor
	Like them all, but love the "B"s.

cabinfourus Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 03 Jun 2025 Location: Asheville, NC Points: 24	Post Options Post Reply Quote cabinfourus Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 25 Jun 2025 at 1:14pm
	Thanks, I will go over the wiring again this evening. It did have a new 12v coil but someone wired it backwards, so I ordered another one and will replace it tomorrow. To update- If I take the plugs out and clean them, let it sit overnight, it will run for a few minutes but shuts off and will not restart. It tries, but won't. I am running out of options with this thing.

mdm1 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Onalaska, WI Points: 2677	Post Options Post Reply Quote mdm1 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 25 Jun 2025 at 1:03pm
	Here is a wiring diagram for a 1 wire conversion on a G. Check your wiring against the diagram. Forget about the original 6v system. The points and condenser are fine. Did you replace the coil with a 12v coil? Get a standard or blue streak condenser or maybe try the old one. Quick enough to do.
	Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK!

cabinfourus Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 03 Jun 2025 Location: Asheville, NC Points: 24	Post Options Post Reply Quote cabinfourus Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 25 Jun 2025 at 12:20pm
	I thought that relay was not needed now. So, here is where I am now. It will start up and run for 3-5 minutes beautifully. After the 3-5 minutes, it acts like it is running out of fuel and shuts off. I pulled the fuel line, and it is getting a great supply of fuel. I have been through the carburetor twice and know it is all good. I did install a ballast resistor between the ignition voltage wire and + coil post. When I check the voltage, I have battery voltage on the wire coming into the resistor and 8.3 volts coming out of the resistor. Do I even need this resistor installed? I only did it because this tractor was originally 6v system, and I didn't want to overload the points with voltage. When I put my spark tester inline on the number one cylinder, it looks as if I have a weak spark. This could also be where someone wired up the coil backwards originally and did damage to the coil, couldn't it? I really appreciate all the help with this thing. It belongs to my 80-year-old neighbor and I am doing this work for free.

cabinfourus Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 03 Jun 2025 Location: Asheville, NC Points: 24	Post Options Post Reply Quote cabinfourus Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 25 Jun 2025 at 12:11pm
	Everything looked good on the leak down test. I did check the valve adjustment and they are in spec.

mdm1 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Onalaska, WI Points: 2677	Post Options Post Reply Quote mdm1 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 22 Jun 2025 at 4:08pm
	The cut out is for the 6v charging system. If it has a 12v alternator no need to connect. I started my initial carb adjustment at 1 1/2 turns out.
	Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK!

HudCo Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 29 Jan 2013 Location: Plymouth Utah Points: 3868	Post Options Post Reply Quote HudCo Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 22 Jun 2025 at 1:08pm
	also do a leak down test

HudCo Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 29 Jan 2013 Location: Plymouth Utah Points: 3868	Post Options Post Reply Quote HudCo Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 22 Jun 2025 at 1:03pm
	check the valve lash

cabinfourus Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 03 Jun 2025 Location: Asheville, NC Points: 24	Post Options Post Reply Quote cabinfourus Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 22 Jun 2025 at 12:24pm
	In the service manual, it is listed as the cutout relay. I was able to get it running today, but it is popping back through the carburetor sporadically. I tried adjusting the main jet, and it fouled the plugs pretty bad. What is a good starting point with the main jet? I have read that a half turn to a full turn is best, but not sure. With the electrical system being upgraded to 12v, do I need to connect the cutout relay? Thank you so much for the help. The guy who owns it is 80, and he hasn't heard it run in over a year. He has been working his garden by hand, and a tiller. I am just trying to help him out with it. I apologize for any misleading terminology.