My background is automotive technician. I am a retired Marine and line tech. A friend has a 1945 G Allis and Chalmers tractor with a TSV 13 carburetor on it. He had the engine overhauled a year ago, and it ran great for about an hour. He said it started acting as if it was running out of gas, and has not run correctly since. 

I removed the carburetor, took it completely apart and cleaned it. I ordered a kit from Amazon to rebuild the carb, and replaced everything in the kit. While tearing down the carb, I noticed a foam type screen on the adjusting screw on the bottom of the carb. The kit didn't have this in it, and I can't find a picture anywhere showing it. I put the carb back together, leaving out the torn screen, and we still have the same problem. I adjusted the air/fuel mixture screw on top to one and half turns out. The bottom adjuster, I set at one turn out. The plugs keep fouling with fuel. I am not sure of the firing order, but the two middle plugs are always covered in fuel and the two outside are not. The tractor tries to run but will not. Puffs of dark gray smoke come from the exhaust when trying to start it. 

Can someone tell me what the foam type screen is for? The bottom adjuster seems very loose, and it seeps fuel from it. Could this be a timing issue also? 

Any help is highly appreciated. 

The TSV Carbs as small as they are have their issues. From lose throttle shafts to deteriorating bowl floors, the white metal these things are made out of are what causes most of the problems. That loose enrichment assy, another issue with the white metal. Threads get worn out. I've found if they're not to worn out, a little pipe dope on the threads and then thread the assy in till its snug not tight will sometimes remedy that problem assisted with a gasket.  Not sure what foam thing yer' talkin' about. Firing order on a G is 1-3-4-2. Number one being at the Radiator. Check the floats to see if they are taking on fuel. Pull em' out, and give em' a little shake. If you hear sloshing, the floats are sinking and its flooding. If you have Champion Spark Plugs in that engine, take them out, throw em' away and install either 295 Autolites or NGK plugs. HTH.

Steve@B&B 

Hopefully things are improving around Asheville. It was quite a mess when I was up there at the end of October. 

Rebuilt the carburetor completely. Set the main jet to one full turn out, and the air mixture to 1.5 turns out. 

Replaced the fuel tank and cap. 

Replaced the points and condenser. Set the points to .020

Replaced the coil. 

Rebuilt the wiring harness. Someone had wired the coil backwards, and left the output relay unhooked. 

Replaced spark plugs and wires. 

It has been upgraded from 6v to 12v using a GM 1 wire alternator. 

The engine was completely overhauled at a local tractor repair shop. 

It will start up and run, but die after a few seconds (10-20). I pulled the plugs after flooding the engine and found the number 3 cylinder soaked with fuel and the other three dry, but all the plugs were covered black. Since rebuilding the wiring harness, it will now start and run a few seconds. 

I'd like to check the timing, but I am not sure where the timing mark for number 1 TDC is located. Is it on the front crankshaft pulley somewhere?

Thank you all so much for the advice. This thing is whipping me, but I refuse to give up! 

******Update****** I found the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley. A vertical line. Should it be at 6 o' clock when number 1 is TDC?

I was able to get it running today, but it is popping back through the carburetor sporadically. I tried adjusting the main jet, and it fouled the plugs pretty bad. 

What is a good starting point with the main jet? I have read that a half turn to a full turn is best, but not sure. 

With the electrical system being upgraded to 12v, do I need to connect the cutout relay?

Thank you so much for the help. The guy who owns it is 80, and he hasn't heard it run in over a year. He has been working his garden by hand, and a tiller. I am just trying to help him out with it. 

I apologize for any misleading terminology. 

So, here is where I am now. 

It will start up and run for 3-5 minutes beautifully. After the 3-5 minutes, it acts like it is running out of fuel and shuts off. I pulled the fuel line, and it is getting a great supply of fuel. I have been through the carburetor twice and know it is all good.  

I did install a ballast resistor between the ignition voltage wire and + coil post. When I check the voltage, I have battery voltage on the wire coming into the resistor and 8.3 volts coming out of the resistor. Do I even need this resistor installed? I only did it because this tractor was originally 6v system, and I didn't want to overload the points with voltage. 

When I put my spark tester inline on the number one cylinder, it looks as if I have a weak spark. This could also be where someone wired up the coil backwards originally and did damage to the coil, couldn't it?

I really appreciate all the help with this thing. It belongs to my 80-year-old neighbor and I am doing this work for free. 

It did have a new 12v coil but someone wired it backwards, so I ordered another one and will replace it tomorrow. 

To update-

If I take the plugs out and clean them, let it sit overnight, it will run for a few minutes but shuts off and will not restart. It tries, but won't. I am running out of options with this thing. 

Would definitely get rid of the ballast resistor as a priority, unlikely to have damaged the coil running it reverse polarity.

These G tractors use the TSV 13 carburetor. It seems there are different versions though. Some use a power jet, idle jet, etc. The carburetor I have has been taken off and cleaned a few times, and I believe someone left the power jet out by mistake. 

Can someone verify that the 1952 G model carburetors have the power jet in them? And, if so, where can I get one?

My carb has the adjustable main jet on the bottom of it, with the main nozzle meeting it on the inside, but there is a gap between them, and this is why I am thinking the power jet is missing. 

Thanks

This is my actual main jet and nozzle. I found a diagram that says there is supposed to be a power jet in-between these two. If so, mine is missing. 

I have thought this from the start. 

Can someone confirm the firing order for me, and the cylinder order starting from the fan?

Firing order 1342

Cylinder order from fan 1234

When setting the timing, I put the number one cylinder to top dead center, and the mark on the crank pulley is at 6 o' clock position. I then adjust the distributor to where the points are starting to open on number one. I did notice the points are not contacting evenly. I plan to fix this today. After setting the timing, I set the points to .020. I OHM tested my plug wires and they are all good. I adjusted the carb main jet to one full turn out, and the air mixture to 1.5 turns out. I am waiting on new 295 spark plugs, and a capacitor for the points. I performed a leak down test, compression test, and checked the valve adjustment. All three were good. 

If this little tractor doesn't run this time, I plan to set it on fire. (j/k)

Are the cylinders in a 1234 order starting from the radiator?

first, that is a replacement aftermarket carb, 

as for firing order-

I will rewire it today, and post my results. 

Someone had the timing out and the plugs wired backwards. 

Now, each time I pull the starter, she starts up and runs beautifully. 

Thank you all for the help and info, and I promise you, I won't be working on anymore in the future. I will stick to cars. lol