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mdefelice91171 
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Joined: 26 Jun 2014
Location: Brooksville, FL
Points: 258
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 Topic: WD Brakes and Clutch
Posted: 18 Jan 2017 at 8:35pm |
Ok, so I've been putting this off as long as
I can, but it's finally time. The left brake on my WD is totally fried, and the clutch is going for sure. Anyone have any good advice on either of these projects? While I'm at it, I'm having some issues with my lift arm control. I adjusted it as best I could, but now I need to go full throw up or down to get them to move, and there's no fine adjustments anymore. I can get them to go up slowly, but they simply drop when I try to let them down slowly. Worst part is, even though I've got the draw bar control set correctly, I can't get them to hold, they either float up or down constantly with engine speed and load.
You can only imagine how frustrating this is when I pull a planter or cultivator.
I need a parts supplier and any tech tips for these issues. Thanks in advance. (BTW for anyone who saw my last post [carb issues] I ended up just buying a new Zenith, My Marvel rebuild still leaked bad so I think it was a cracked body)
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Dakota Dave
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: ND
Points: 3968
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Posted: 18 Jan 2017 at 9:10pm |
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Can't help with the brakes but is the clutch problem the main clutch or the hand clutch. If it's the hand clutch have you shimmed the clutch yet. The engine clutch is straight foward pull the engine swap it out. When it's out surface the flywheel replace the throw out bearing and check the ring gear. If in doubt swap it out. To change the hand clutch you'll need to split the tractor. If you've gone throught the complete hydraulic adjustment. Step by step start with the drawbar traction booster follow up rod and work your way up. It all in the service manual. If that doesn't work it time to pull the hydraulic pump assembly. Put it on your bench take it apart and clean every thing. Youll probably find a couple broken springs in there. Get them from AGCO. First place I'd look for parts is from the site sponsors.many of the things I've needed they have had. There are always many parts listed on EBay, I use that as my last resort. Because some things just aren't avaliable except for from someone parting one out.
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Allis dave
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Joined: 10 May 2012
Location: Northern IN
Points: 3009
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Posted: 19 Jan 2017 at 7:01am |
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If you need a foot clutch, look up Rick Corder aka Rick on here. He rebuilds clutches and brakes and sells them for a good price.
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ac hunter
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Joined: 05 Jan 2011
Location: OHIO
Points: 1044
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Posted: 19 Jan 2017 at 7:01am |
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Sandy Lake rebuilt my WD hydraulic pump last winter. They had all the parts and did a dandy job. Turned around in about a week. I'm sure they would sell you the parts too.
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Stan IL&TN
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Elvis Land
Points: 6730
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Posted: 19 Jan 2017 at 7:20am |
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As you know the foot clutch will require pulling the engine but if it's the hand clutch you can usually remove shims to get the clearance's back into spec and then you are good to go. Only if all the shims have already been removed will you need to replace discs/plates and that gets to be a bigger project.
You can rebuild the pump yourself but it will require a good clean area to lay all the parts out as you remove them. Pictures will help. Most items that wear in the pump are the O-rings and springs and you will need a few gaskets/seals. Sandy Lake will have the parts. Also take pictures of the linkage before you remove the pump because I didn't do that and put it back on the tractor with one of them on backwards and had to pull the pump a second time to correct it.
Edited by Stan IL&TN - 19 Jan 2017 at 7:28am
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1957 WD45 dad's first AC
1968 one-seventy
1956 F40 Ferguson
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HD6GTOM
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Joined: 30 Nov 2009
Location: MADISON CO IA
Points: 6627
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Posted: 19 Jan 2017 at 8:17am |
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I second the Rick idea. I got a clutch disk, pressure plate, and throw out bearing from him about 2 months ago for Dads WD45. Very professionally done and quick service. Its just nuts and bolts when replacing the clutch. Hand clutch is easy to adjust, one tip on the hand clutch, drain the oil the day before you adjust it, leave the plug out and let it drain all night. Its a lot less messy if you can.
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DanC911
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Joined: 22 Jul 2014
Location: CT, USA
Points: 598
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Posted: 19 Jan 2017 at 9:25am |
Check out this video on doing the brakes: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nKIJNiCH6p8 She does a great job explaining the process.
Edited by DanC911 - 19 Jan 2017 at 4:25pm
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1950 WD, 1955 B, 66 Jacobsen Chief-O-Matic, 68 Simplicity 2110, 77 IH Cub Cadet 1450 w/front loader
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stu(ON)
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
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Posted: 19 Jan 2017 at 9:42am |
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Bill_MN
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Sioux Falls, SD
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Posted: 19 Jan 2017 at 5:03pm |
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While you have the engine pulled replace the pilot bearing in the flywheel if you have one, and check the condition of your ring gear and throw out fork/shaft.
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1951 WD #78283, 1918 Case 28x50 Thresher #76738, Case Centennial B 2x16 Plow
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Lon(MN)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Merrill Wi
Points: 2010
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Posted: 20 Jan 2017 at 8:34am |
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Nice video on brake replacement. I have found ways of doing this job without a torch. The mice come out alive and the cats are happy.
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