Farm Equipment - WD Brakes and Clutch

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WD Brakes and Clutch

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=133969
Printed Date: 14 Jun 2025 at 5:17pm
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Topic: WD Brakes and Clutch

Posted By: mdefelice91171
Subject: WD Brakes and Clutch
Date Posted: 18 Jan 2017 at 8:35pm

Ok, so I've been putting this off as long as I can, but it's finally time. The left brake on my WD is totally fried, and the clutch is going for sure. Anyone have any good advice on either of these projects? While I'm at it, I'm having some issues with my lift arm control. I adjusted it as best I could, but now I need to go full throw up or down to get them to move, and there's no fine adjustments anymore. I can get them to go up slowly, but they simply drop when I try to let them down slowly. Worst part is, even though I've got the draw bar control set correctly, I can't get them to hold, they either float up or down constantly with engine speed and load. You can only imagine how frustrating this is when I pull a planter or cultivator.

I need a parts supplier and any tech tips for these issues. Thanks in advance. (BTW for anyone who saw my last post [carb issues] I ended up just buying a new Zenith, My Marvel rebuild still leaked bad so I think it was a cracked body)

Replies:

Posted By: Dakota Dave
Date Posted: 18 Jan 2017 at 9:10pm

Can't help with the brakes but is the clutch problem the main clutch or the hand clutch. If it's the hand clutch have you shimmed the clutch yet. The engine clutch is straight foward pull the engine swap it out. When it's out surface the flywheel replace the throw out bearing and check the ring gear. If in doubt swap it out. To change the hand clutch you'll need to split the tractor. If you've gone throught the complete hydraulic adjustment. Step by step start with the drawbar traction booster follow up rod and work your way up. It all in the service manual. If that doesn't work it time to pull the hydraulic pump assembly. Put it on your bench take it apart and clean every thing. Youll probably find a couple broken springs in there. Get them from AGCO. First place I'd look for parts is from the site sponsors.many of the things I've needed they have had. There are always many parts listed on EBay, I use that as my last resort. Because some things just aren't avaliable except for from someone parting one out.

Posted By: Allis dave
Date Posted: 19 Jan 2017 at 7:01am

If you need a foot clutch, look up Rick Corder aka Rick on here. He rebuilds clutches and brakes and sells them for a good price.

Posted By: ac hunter
Date Posted: 19 Jan 2017 at 7:01am

Sandy Lake rebuilt my WD hydraulic pump last winter. They had all the parts and did a dandy job. Turned around in about a week. I'm sure they would sell you the parts too.

Posted By: Stan IL&TN
Date Posted: 19 Jan 2017 at 7:20am

As you know the foot clutch will require pulling the engine but if it's the hand clutch you can usually remove shims to get the clearance's back into spec and then you are good to go. Only if all the shims have already been removed will you need to replace discs/plates and that gets to be a bigger project.

You can rebuild the pump yourself but it will require a good clean area to lay all the parts out as you remove them. Pictures will help. Most items that wear in the pump are the O-rings and springs and you will need a few gaskets/seals. Sandy Lake will have the parts. Also take pictures of the linkage before you remove the pump because I didn't do that and put it back on the tractor with one of them on backwards and had to pull the pump a second time to correct it.

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1957 WD45 dad's first AC

1968 one-seventy

1956 F40 Ferguson

Posted By: HD6GTOM
Date Posted: 19 Jan 2017 at 8:17am

I second the Rick idea. I got a clutch disk, pressure plate, and throw out bearing from him about 2 months ago for Dads WD45. Very professionally done and quick service. Its just nuts and bolts when replacing the clutch. Hand clutch is easy to adjust, one tip on the hand clutch, drain the oil the day before you adjust it, leave the plug out and let it drain all night. Its a lot less messy if you can.

Posted By: DanC911
Date Posted: 19 Jan 2017 at 9:25am

Check out this video on doing the brakes: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nKIJNiCH6p8" rel="nofollow - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nKIJNiCH6p8 She does a great job explaining the process.

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1950 WD, 1955 B, 66 Jacobsen Chief-O-Matic, 68 Simplicity 2110, 77 IH Cub Cadet 1450 w/front loader

Posted By: stu(ON)
Date Posted: 19 Jan 2017 at 9:42am

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nKIJNiCH6p8" rel="nofollow - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nKIJNiCH6p8

Posted By: Bill_MN
Date Posted: 19 Jan 2017 at 5:03pm

While you have the engine pulled replace the pilot bearing in the flywheel if you have one, and check the condition of your ring gear and throw out fork/shaft.

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1951 WD #78283, 1918 Case 28x50 Thresher #76738, Case Centennial B 2x16 Plow

Posted By: Lon(MN)
Date Posted: 20 Jan 2017 at 8:34am

Nice video on brake replacement. I have found ways of doing this job without a torch. The mice come out alive and the cats are happy.