| Author |
 Topic Search  Topic Options
|
Eric B 
Orange Level
Joined: 09 Feb 2012
Location: British Columbi
Points: 890
|
 Post Options
 Thanks(0)
 Quote  Reply
 Posted: 17 Jul 2015 at 12:25am |
|
Do you have the big repair manual for your 715 backhoe? If you do there should be some procedure outline for removing the transmissions in order to get to the flex plate and the oil pump. If you don't have instructions in the manual you just crawl under and look the job over...drive shaft off, linkages, cables, shifter, cooling lines etc. You must have a heavy duty and safe jack on which the trans. will be secure. Once everything is removed including the bolts from the fwd reverser to the bell housing on the engine you slide the trannies back to disconnect from the engine then lower down. If your torque converter has a drain plug, turn it to the bottom and drain the oil out before separating trannies from engine or you'll have running out the converter neck. When you get this far you'll see what to do from there.
|
|
Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
|
 |
|
Sponsored Links
|
|
|
FarmerJoeVT
Silver Level
Joined: 19 Oct 2014
Location: Vermont
Points: 58
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 16 Jul 2015 at 9:06am |
Good morning Gents,
I have a friend coming over this afternoon to see if he would be able to help removed and fix the pump issue. Can anyone explain the process or what will be required to get to the pump to replace it. Such as: unbolt x and x, lower it, check x and x to see if x part is broken, etc.. :)
Thank you in advance.
Very respectfully,
Farmer Joe VT
-Brian
|
|
Eric B
Orange Level
Joined: 09 Feb 2012
Location: British Columbi
Points: 890
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 10 Jul 2015 at 1:44am |
That spot where oil leaks ... I really don't know. I don't have my machine any more so I'm not able to go out there and look  .
|
|
Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
|
|
FarmerJoeVT
Silver Level
Joined: 19 Oct 2014
Location: Vermont
Points: 58
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 09 Jul 2015 at 3:55pm |
Just to help describe where the fluid is leaking out of I found this diagram online and have marked with an arrow to better identify the source of the leak.
Thank you for all the collective knowledge and helpful steps. (Eric, Carl, Coke, etc. - your awesome)
Very respectfully,
Farmer Joe VT
-Brian
|
|
Eric B
Orange Level
Joined: 09 Feb 2012
Location: British Columbi
Points: 890
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 09 Jul 2015 at 12:30pm |
|
I liked dealing with Reliableaftermarketparts...you should try to confirm on the phone that this fits your 715, personally I'm sure it's the right one. Remember DON NOT ORDER ANY PARTS BEFORE YOU GET IT APART! You have to raise the machine with enough clearance to get the transmissions out from under the machine. You will probably find all the instructions in your 715 Manual. The first time this happened to my machine THE OIL PUMP WAS OK, I DID NOT NEED TO REPLACE IT! But the converter neck needed repair because the flex plate was broken and needed to be replaced. A new seal was put in the pump but the pump itself was perfectly good. The pump is mounted right at the front of the fwd/rev trans, it's the first thing you see once you pull the tranny away from the engine. You need to be working on concrete and be using a really good transmission jack. My mechanic used a forklift with side shift to move the trannies away from the engine and then lowered them down. You may need to hire help to do this work, it is not an easy procedure if you haven't done it before.
|
|
Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
|
|
JayIN
Orange Level
Joined: 18 Dec 2009
Location: SE/IN
Points: 1982
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 09 Jul 2015 at 11:42am |
|
you had starter problems. you have pump problems. the flexplate is the common denominator, it drives the pump. If it is cracked it will ruin the starter and waller out the pump till it has no pressure. Been there, done that on a Turbo Hydro 400 on an old Jeep pickup. Starter would not act right and then no transmission pressure. Flex plate was nearly broken clear into. check that. keep us posted.
|
|
sometimes I walk out to my shop and look around and think "Who's the idiot that owns this place?"
|
|
FarmerJoeVT
Silver Level
Joined: 19 Oct 2014
Location: Vermont
Points: 58
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 09 Jul 2015 at 8:26am |
|
|
|
FarmerJoeVT
Silver Level
Joined: 19 Oct 2014
Location: Vermont
Points: 58
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 09 Jul 2015 at 7:58am |
Thank you Eric. I sincerely value the support you and everyone has given. I also, appreciate the clarificatoin on the part needed to repair this issue. Thou I had hoped it would be a quick easy fix, sometimes it just happens not to be that wat and thats ok. Do you have any advice on the best way to remove the bad pump for the forward reverser transmission and install a new one?
Thanks you in advance.
Brian
|
|
Eric B
Orange Level
Joined: 09 Feb 2012
Location: British Columbi
Points: 890
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 08 Jul 2015 at 9:35pm |
By the way Brian, the link you have for an oil pump looks to be an oil pump for the engine (notice it says engine parts at the top). The reason it fits your machine and several others is the Perkins engine. You (likely) need a pump for the forward reverser transmission. Here is the place and price from last year when I bought one...most likely the same one in your machine. You could always contact them for particulars. As I said previously however, don't order any parts 'til you know what you need.
3615 E. Grand River Rd.
Williamston MI 48895
US
Toll Free 888-672-7876
Local 517-347-7033 & Fax 517-339-1608
| Item | Quantity | Bin Location | Description | Rate | Amount | Tax Rate |
|---|
| A508005 | 1 | | PUMP ASSY. | 186.33 | 186.33 | | | Subtotal | 186.33 | | | Shipping Cost (Standard) | 23.69 | | | Total | $210.02 |
|
|
|
Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
|
|
Eric B
Orange Level
Joined: 09 Feb 2012
Location: British Columbi
Points: 890
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 08 Jul 2015 at 9:18pm |
Well Brian, it's not fun to have a machine that won't move...I have been there myself. Unfortunately it was no easy fix. I think I have given you all the advice I have. Running out of fuel would have no influence on the tranny. The oil leak you describe is right below the converter, if the seal or the oil pump leak that's where the oil comes down. The starter failing can make trouble in the converter housing if a piece let go from the starter itself. On one machine I had, the starter drive disintegrated and wedged itself stuck between the ring gear and the engine block...it still boils down to having to disassemble and investigate where the problem originates. It may still be an idea for you to reread this whole thread and ponder everyone's input. I wish you all the best on your repair. Be sure to tell us what you find and how you fixed it. Eric
|
|
Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
|
|
FarmerJoeVT
Silver Level
Joined: 19 Oct 2014
Location: Vermont
Points: 58
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 08 Jul 2015 at 8:38am |
Good morning,
First off, thank you Eric. To briefly describe the fluid I talking about. It never leaked until I added ATF fluid to the transmission dip stick location on the left side of the loader above the starter. While waiting for a replacement starter, I topped off all the fluids, changed the filters, added fluids, etc.. Once the new starter was installed, I turned the key and it started perfectly. However the ATF fluid came out of a manufactured opening (roughly 1/10" wide by 6" long rectangular opening) on the housing of what I believe is the transmission housing that follows the oil pan.
If there are additional troubleshooting steps that I can do to isolate the issue even further, please let me know. It just seems weird that it was running fine until I ran her out of fuel, went to restart her and the crank motor went. Replaced it and the filters /etc. and not it won’t move. There was no hesitation or sounds or anything beforehand to indicate an issue was pending. :)
Any advice, wisdom, or troubleshooting tips are greatly appreciated.
Very respectfully,
Brian
Edited by FarmerJoeVT - 08 Jul 2015 at 8:38am
|
|
Eric B
Orange Level
Joined: 09 Feb 2012
Location: British Columbi
Points: 890
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 08 Jul 2015 at 1:25am |
|
It's not hard to replace the pump once you can get at it. You have to remove both transmissions to access the pump. There may not be much wrong with the pump itself but as mentioned earlier in this thread if the flex plate is broken and the converter starts wobbling the drive set up for the pump and seal get ruined. If the pump doesn't turn there is 0 pressure. Once you pull it apart you'll see how it's supposed to work. You were talking about oil leaking...it's likely the oil pump seal around the converter neck is leaking. Last time when I was buying a new pump ordering it as a kit (pump, seal, gasket and bolts) was the best deal. However, don't order parts until you have it apart and you see what you need.
|
|
Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
|
|
FarmerJoeVT
Silver Level
Joined: 19 Oct 2014
Location: Vermont
Points: 58
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 07 Jul 2015 at 2:29pm |
|
When I push the pedal the valve in the trans moves freely in and out.
|
|
FarmerJoeVT
Silver Level
Joined: 19 Oct 2014
Location: Vermont
Points: 58
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 07 Jul 2015 at 10:55am |
Am I wrong in my understanding that is I got 0 on both pressure tests that this points to an issue with the oil pump? If so, is this hard to replace?
Found a replacement pump:
Thanks
Farmer Joe
|
|
Eric B
Orange Level
Joined: 09 Feb 2012
Location: British Columbi
Points: 890
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 06 Jul 2015 at 12:18pm |
|
Take a look at your inching pedal linkages. Move the pedal up and down and watch the valve on the trans. just to make sure it moves freely. If it were stuck in the "in position" you wouldn't get pressure readings to fwd or reverse at least. With no pump pressure and engine running you're back to where you will have to pull both transmissions out (no little job) to see what's happening with the pump.
|
|
Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
|
|
FarmerJoeVT
Silver Level
Joined: 19 Oct 2014
Location: Vermont
Points: 58
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 06 Jul 2015 at 8:22am |
Ok, thanks Coke. So with them being related to the brake light switch , backup alarm, neutral safety switch", none of those would have an affect on my issue of going forward or reverse. So I will mark that down as unrelated. :)
Any ideas on why the pressure tests would both be 0 for the forward reverse clutch test port and the convertor test port?
Thanks
Farmer Joe
Edited by FarmerJoeVT - 06 Jul 2015 at 8:25am
|
|
Coke-in-MN
Orange Level Access
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Afton MN
Points: 41219
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 06 Jul 2015 at 8:18am |
|
brake light switch , backup alarm, neutral safety switch,
|
|
Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."
|
|
FarmerJoeVT
Silver Level
Joined: 19 Oct 2014
Location: Vermont
Points: 58
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 06 Jul 2015 at 7:58am |
Update: Pressure tests both were 0, however pedal switches are heavily corroaded / broken testing 0 via voltage meter.
Allis Chalmers 715b - pressure tests = 0: https://youtu.be/k7RCWUbii1w
Here are some pictures of the pedal switch for troubleshooting.
Thanks
Very respectfully,
Brian
|
|
Eric B
Orange Level
Joined: 09 Feb 2012
Location: British Columbi
Points: 890
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 25 Jun 2015 at 9:22pm |
|
You'll need one 1/4'' coupling (female both ends) between your gauge and your hose, one reducer for the other end of the hose to go from 1/4'' male to 1/8'' male (for attaching to the trans. Home Depot or any auto parts supply place will have them. From your diagrams find the plug for testing pump pressure, remove the plug and install the hose with the gauge. Start up your machine and look at the gauge. After running for 1/2 a minute or so run the throttle up a bit to see if anything changes. It will be interesting to hear what you find...please let us know.
|
|
Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
|
|
FarmerJoeVT
Silver Level
Joined: 19 Oct 2014
Location: Vermont
Points: 58
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 25 Jun 2015 at 4:02pm |
Do you know the size of the adapters Ill need to perform this pressure test?
This is what I have thus far:
Hydraulic Hose - 1/4" - male to male threaded ends
Pressure Guage - 1/4" - male end threaded
Adapters: ????
I need to figure out the adapters to get for the hose to the tractor and from the hose to the guage. Any suggestions for adapters and how to perform this test from a DIYers perspective is appreciated.
Example pressure test video: But still need to know exactly how to do the test on our 715b specifically.
Thanks
Brian
|
|
Eric B
Orange Level
Joined: 09 Feb 2012
Location: British Columbi
Points: 890
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 24 Jun 2015 at 5:00pm |
|
You're onto the information you need on the pages you have posted. As the book mentions you need a pressure gauge that will give you readings up to 300 PSI. You need a pressure line with one end having 1/8" pipe thread and you may need an adapter fitting that works on the gauge...maybe 1/4". You can use a long grease gun hose (just blow the grease out first if it's a used hose) it will thread straight in wherever you attach it to the trans. except for the cooler line. I would test the pump pressure first...if the reading is 0 or very very low you have a definite problem with the pump which is propelled by the converter neck. You won't need to check any clutch pressures either as they will be 0 if the pump has no pressure. If pump pressure is 0 you know you have to pull out both transmissions to get to the problem. I wouldn't worry about warming everything up for pressure readings like the manual says until you know if you have pump pressure. You could check with Harbour Freight for an inexpensive gauge or any place that sells industrial supplies. You can buy complete test kits with adapters and all, like from Snap-On, but then you're looking at big $'s. For now you just want to know if you have pressure.
|
|
Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
|
|
FarmerJoeVT
Silver Level
Joined: 19 Oct 2014
Location: Vermont
Points: 58
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 24 Jun 2015 at 9:58am |
Is the gauge I need? If so, what size of Hydraulic line do I need to hook it up to the machine and this gauge to test?
I also included pictures from the manual below if someone can walk me through the process of where I need to hook it up to and how to do the test.
Thank you in advance.
Very respectfully,
Brian
Edited by FarmerJoeVT - 24 Jun 2015 at 10:02am
|
|
FarmerJoeVT
Silver Level
Joined: 19 Oct 2014
Location: Vermont
Points: 58
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 24 Jun 2015 at 7:51am |
Can anyone you tell me what kind of pressure tester you recommend and where I should do the pressure test on the machine?
I will post what I have from the maintenance manual on the forum shortly.
Thank you in advance.
Very respectfully,
Brian
|
|
FarmerJoeVT
Silver Level
Joined: 19 Oct 2014
Location: Vermont
Points: 58
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 18 Jun 2015 at 8:53pm |
Thanks Eric for the encouragement and advice. I will look in my maintenance manual for the pressure tests that both Coke and you have recommended. I will also take some pictures of different areas of the machine and give regular updates on the pressure tests when I have them.
Thanks again
Brian
Edited by FarmerJoeVT - 18 Jun 2015 at 8:53pm
|
|
Eric B
Orange Level
Joined: 09 Feb 2012
Location: British Columbi
Points: 890
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 18 Jun 2015 at 12:02pm |
I'm not sure if you have the big manual for your machine but if you do it lists a number of pressure tests you can do - just like Coke was recommending earlier on. When you look at the fwd rev trans you'll see several 1/8" pipe plugs, these are places where you can attach a pressure gauge and see readings for the different functions of the trans (while the engine is running). The manual tells which plug hole gives the specific reading for a certain function. You likely need a gauge capable of 300 lbs. If the pump isn't working your readings will be 0 lbs on everything. Don't spend big money on a gauge to help your budget. Willingness + determination + persistence are in your favour...just add wisdom to the mix and you'll be fine 
|
|
Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
|
|
FarmerJoeVT
Silver Level
Joined: 19 Oct 2014
Location: Vermont
Points: 58
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 18 Jun 2015 at 11:32am |
Thank you Eric and everyone for your suggestions and wisdom. Thou my skillset may dwarf in comparison to most on this forum, I do feel confident in my ability to troubleshoot systematically if told where to start first. I have the 715 Maintenance Manual and Parts Manual for reference, however it leaves much to be desired for this particular issue.
Like with any issue, eliminating areas that are not the cause can be just as important to solving the issue once it is isolated. While I wish I had both the local resources and means ($$$) to professionally examine the machine on my behalf. Coming off of active military service, moving across the world, with the purchase of home with its own fair share of repairs and a 3yr old little boy (may Project Manager ;) ) helping to hold wrenches and direct my every move. This is not possible, nor is it anyone’s problem but my own but it helps paint the context maybe more clearly of the situation/financial constraints. This will not change for the indefinite future. Which has brought me here.
So, if there are troubleshooting steps in order, that will help me help all of you, help me isolate this issue further please let me know.
Once more I appreciate and value your collective knowledge, years of busting your knuckles, and help as we desperately work to get this machine operating once more.
Very respectfully,
Brian
Edited by FarmerJoeVT - 18 Jun 2015 at 11:33am
|
|
Dgrader
Orange Level
Joined: 17 Jan 2015
Location: Newton,IL
Points: 1037
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 18 Jun 2015 at 5:27am |
|
I think that's a good idea Eric. If a person hasn't worked on equipment much,it's pretty easy to get over your head pretty fast.
|
|
Ya cain't fix stupid.
|
|
Eric B
Orange Level
Joined: 09 Feb 2012
Location: British Columbi
Points: 890
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 17 Jun 2015 at 10:08pm |
There is always risk taking with buying and operating heavy machinery. Sometimes everything works better than expected and other times we have to spend time and money to get our projects finished. I would recommend you ask around for a referral to a good and yet reasonable mechanic with knowledge and experience on this type of power train. Mechanics that work on forklifts often run into this kind thing just to broaden the scope a bit. Just like it is with health issues...to get a diagnosis is the starting point. Even if you decide to remove components yourself you want to at least know your plan of action and what you are targeting under some expert guidance or you will just end up with buckets of bolts and parts along with frustration. If the repair isn't in the budget you might have to put everything on hold for a year. This may not all sound like the good news you wish to hear but it is what I would do in your circumstance.
Eric
|
|
Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
|
|
FarmerJoeVT
Silver Level
Joined: 19 Oct 2014
Location: Vermont
Points: 58
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 17 Jun 2015 at 1:29pm |
First off, thank you for
all the suggestions. To further add to the troubleshooting process, I think it
is important to mention that when I took the oil pan off believing the atf
fluid leak was coming from the two nuts on the oil pan closest to the torque
convertor, which it did not end up being. When I took the oil pan off to
investigate further, I noticed that on the torque convertor it has a rectangular
gap roughly a 1/10" wide and 4-5" long that was not a crack but
appeared to be a manufactured part of the torque convertor. Since this is right
at the transition point between the torque convertor and the oil pan, it was
coming out and then down the oil pan misleading us to believe it was leaking
from the pan and not the convertor housing its self. There was no gasket in
this gap nor was one the ground, so we are not sure if one should be there or
not. While having the oil pan off, we replaced the gasket. Other than running
her out of gas and the bad starter that started right after we ran her out of
gas, there have been no weird sounds or problems. When the starter went I took the opportunity to change the oil, filters (oil & fuel), and top of the atf fluid which was low. After I installed the new starter she started up better than she ever has and with all the fluids topped off and new for the first time in probably many years that is when the atf fluid was noticed to be pouring out of the gap referenced above. Im not sure if it never did it before since it was low enough not to or if this is something new. When the old starter broke, I heard it and shut it off immediately. When I took the starter housing out, the metal half housing appeared to have sheared off and when I took the cover off the bottom of the torque convertor the broken fragments came right out. I inspected it and everything appeared to be fine. When I installed the new starter it started right up and that is when with the atf fluid topped it started leaking and wouldnt go forward or reverse. We had a problem once last
year when she would not go forward or reverse and a friend literally just
pulled up on the differential and she engaged and worked fine. Now she will not
even do that and seems to want to die when I put her under load with the hydraulics
when moving the loader bucket or backhoe bucket without hitting the gas. So we
are at a loss, with a limited budget and understanding of heavy equipment /
engines / etc.. I am desperate for any DYI (pictures, diagrams, steps, etc.)
help I can get. We bought her to save money, recently getting out of the
service for projects around our house. We need to get her going ASAP with fill
coming soon and our warm months here in Northern Vermont quickly passing.
So any help is greatly appreciated.
Thank you in advance.
Very respectfully,
Brian
Edited by FarmerJoeVT - 17 Jun 2015 at 1:38pm
|
|
michale34
Silver Level
Joined: 15 Mar 2011
Location: arkansas
Points: 472
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 17 Jun 2015 at 11:36am |
|
I have also had wobling flexplates tear up starters also
|
|
