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FarmerJoeVT 
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Location: Vermont
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 Topic: Won't move forward or reverse
Posted: 29 Sep 2015 at 6:54am |
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Ok, well if JB weld will do the trick I will be placing it on the new pulley when it arrives tomorrow. Then letting it fully cure and hopefully by late Thursday we will running her again once more. :)
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DiyDave
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Posted: 29 Sep 2015 at 5:07am |
 FarmerJoeVT wrote:
The bolt with a washer threads into the end of the crankshaft to hold the pulley in place. The reason why I asked what epoxy to use is because in doing my own research I came across this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bM4IGweHT2kWhich says the Loctite Steel rated better, but I know that there is no shortage of wisdom represented on this site and if you think JB Weld will work then I will give that a try. aIll be sure to let it fully cure after the new pulley arrives Wednesday, before test it. :)
V/r Brian
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I wouldn't place too much faith in the test, in the video. Too many human errors possible, due to weights swinging, rope placement, amount of product used, etc. If you could find an independent testing co's scientifically done test, OK, then.
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Dnoym N. S. Can.
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Posted: 28 Sep 2015 at 7:44pm |
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not the right belt
the belt not tight
alternator at end of
adjustment
B:-) Dnoym
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FarmerJoeVT
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Posted: 28 Sep 2015 at 7:23pm |
The bolt with a washer threads into the end of the crankshaft to hold the pulley in place. The reason why I asked what epoxy to use is because in doing my own research I came across this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bM4IGweHT2kWhich says the Loctite Steel rated better, but I know that there is no shortage of wisdom represented on this site and if you think JB Weld will work then I will give that a try. aIll be sure to let it fully cure after the new pulley arrives Wednesday, before test it. :)
V/r Brian
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DiyDave
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Posted: 28 Sep 2015 at 6:03pm |
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I would say that jbweld would probably be as good as any other, in this application. I would use the regular set up time stuff, not the quick set. You say a bolt holds it on, what's it thread into the end of the crank?
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FarmerJoeVT
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Posted: 28 Sep 2015 at 6:50am |
There is a bolt that holds the pulley on. But the pulley internal bore metal seems to not be as strong as the gear metal and keeps wearing down over time to the point of failure. This will be the second pulley in the last 2 years. So when I buy the 3rd, I'd like to make it hold, since it will have some grip from the get go.
Any suggestions on any metal epoxies or tricks that would do the trick?
Very respectfully,
Brian
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DiyDave
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Posted: 28 Sep 2015 at 5:06am |
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Is there enough room, to add a set screw to the pulley??
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FarmerJoeVT
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Posted: 28 Sep 2015 at 1:21am |
It was the crankshaft pulley again. The teeth on the pulley are completely worn down. I will order another one tomorrow morning and Im thinking about putting JB Weld or Loctite Metal on it next time to prevent it from vibrating or moving around. Does anyone have any other ideas or think that this isnt the way to go?
Thanks
Brian
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DiyDave
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Posted: 27 Sep 2015 at 4:44am |
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looks like the belt ain't tight. also might not be the right belt, or crank pulley has a lot of wear on it, making the belt slip...
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FarmerJoeVT
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Posted: 26 Sep 2015 at 8:03pm |
Sorry, here it is:
https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPIIGwE08T9MKnPdU8DQJDaMvZYVczmRu-M3KtbRbu67YgaqQgQHLYT5jYXGszkzA?key=b2FybXZ5a2kxcjdpNHV1YzkwUDUyZk9HNm1CSTVn
The very last one on the page is a video showing you all what we are seeing.
Thanks in advance.
Very respectfully,
Brian
Edited by FarmerJoeVT - 26 Sep 2015 at 8:05pm
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DiyDave
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Posted: 26 Sep 2015 at 5:14pm |
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link don't work...
Edited by DiyDave - 26 Sep 2015 at 5:15pm
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FarmerJoeVT
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Posted: 26 Sep 2015 at 11:36am |
//New Problem// the radiator fan, alternator, and pulley aren't turning. Sometimes it starts slowly or works a little. But now it isn't working at all or intermittently. Anyone have an idea of what this could be?
Link to pictures and videos:
Thanks
Brian
Edited by FarmerJoeVT - 26 Sep 2015 at 3:30pm
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Dgrader
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Posted: 24 Sep 2015 at 9:07pm |
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Glad ya got it all lined out Brian. The 715 is a good machine, you'll get a lot of work out of her. Glad ya stayed with it and didn't give up.
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Ya cain't fix stupid.
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DMiller
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Posted: 24 Sep 2015 at 7:46am |
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If it is a standard Stanadyne injection pump common to many old Allis's there is a return fitting in the top cover of the pump where the shut off mechanism sits. In that fitting is a check ball, should it have debris in it or getting to it, it will do just as noted and eventually the coupler in the pump will fail where it will not start at all.
I have been thru that on a few that used these style pumps. Only real repair is take it off and have it rebuilt, cleaning just the nozzles would not stop a problem as noted.
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Eric B
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Posted: 24 Sep 2015 at 12:39am |
That's a good report!!! So glad you can make full use of your machine now. Hopefully you will have a long stretch without troubles. It was kind of a rough start for you after just buying your first machine but I applaud you for not giving up  ...what you have undertaken is not an easy job...it's kind of like you have graduated now  , hope you get all your work done before winter.
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Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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FarmerJoeVT
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Posted: 23 Sep 2015 at 11:17pm |
Update: SHE'S AAAAAALLLLIVVVVVVEEEEE!!! :)
So this is what we did. First we cleaned all the fuel injectors by placing them in a can of industrial metal cleaner purchased at Autozone tonight. We then attempted to find any screens in the injector pump unsuccessfully. We then cleaned what we could in the injector holes with the same metal cleaner in a aerosol can and a tooth brush to clean up any carbon. Once that was done we reinstalled the fuel injectors and bleed all the lines (fuel filters top bleed screw, injector pump bleed screw, and opened all 4 injectors and tightened each from right to left before it started on its own around #3, before tightening #4 (far left). With her running, we drove her around, placed her under load, picked up and back dragged dirt, and pulled a 60+ foot long without any bogging down or issues at all. We then shut her off to test if she would fire right back up and she does. We tried it several times and she works the better than she ever has. So after nearly a year of troubleshooting and no shortage of help from everyone here. I am happy to report things look good. We will be testing her fully this weekend, with a front yard and driveway to regrade and 20+ - 60'+ logs to pull out of the woods. I will be sure to give you all a update on how it goes.
A special thanks to Eric, Carl, Coke, and anyone else who has helped us every step of the way. I could not have done any of this without your help and patience with this first time tractor owner. Thank you doesn't come close...
Take care and God bless.
Very repsectfully,
Brian
Edited by FarmerJoeVT - 23 Sep 2015 at 11:21pm
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DiyDave
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Posted: 23 Sep 2015 at 5:13am |
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Looks like a Roosa master pump. Take off fuel input line to pump, take out the little screen, and look for tiny black specks. If you find them, it's the carbon from the brushes of the lift pump, in the injector pump...
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Eric B
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Posted: 22 Sep 2015 at 11:30pm |
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Be sure to check that the shut off lever on the injection pump moves all the way back to running position. Another thing I have seen on diagrams of injection pumps...there is a final fuel screen inside the pump. This may not be the case with yours and maybe it doesn't have such a screen but the problem sounds totally like there is some restriction in the fuel supply. I wouldn't worry about that rubber gasket if it was my machine.
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Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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Ian Beale
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Posted: 22 Sep 2015 at 11:07pm |
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WRT junk in the tank.
One son is in heavy equipment maintenance.
Apparently it is amazing the havoc that a packet of roll-your-own cigarette papers in the tank will cause
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FarmerJoeVT
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Posted: 22 Sep 2015 at 9:47pm |
Thanks Brian
Edited by FarmerJoeVT - 22 Sep 2015 at 10:11pm
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JC-WI
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Posted: 22 Sep 2015 at 9:44pm |
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Maybe need new filters? Had to put two sets of new filters on a tractor many years ago, because old diesel fuel build up in tank was getting dissolved by new blend if diesel with cleaners... and it plugged both intermediate and final filters both times. Hope it is that simple or something simple in the tank like Dave said.
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He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that."
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DiyDave
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Posted: 22 Sep 2015 at 5:49pm |
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You might want to try an inspection camera, with a light , in a nearly empty tank. Might be surprised what you can see with one pointed at the tank bottom. If tank is clean, it might be injection pump lift pump carbon brushes going, if it has a RM pump...
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FarmerJoeVT
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Posted: 22 Sep 2015 at 5:37pm |
Update:
I just got done blowing air through the fuel line back into the fuel tank to try and clear out any gunk from the fuel screen/outlet at the bottom of the tank, as others have suggested. I bleed from the filters all the way to the injectors, got her running, but once I hit the throttle to begin backing up she bogged down again and chugged to a stop. Is there a way for me to test the pump or any other areas I should check?
Thanks Brian
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Eric B
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Posted: 21 Sep 2015 at 9:37pm |
Good to hear that you're up and running again. I have wondered from time to time how you were doing with your repair. Did the trans. rebuilder ever find exactly what was wrong? With your machine dying under load it would have to be some fuel restriction somewhere in the system. Years ago my A-C 816 would just die without good reason. It turned out to be junk in the bottom of the fuel tank...with fuel slushing in every direction in the tank the fuel outlet would plug up. To start with you could blow air back to the tank through the fuel line. To clean the fuel tank completely is a good thing to do every so often. I don't like putting fuel into anything without using a funnel with a fine screen. Thanks for sending your update.
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Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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FarmerJoeVT
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Posted: 21 Sep 2015 at 9:19pm |
Ok everyone, we have a good update. After months of work and $2000 later in parts (flexplate, torque convertor, and shaft seal) and labor, our AC 715b Backhoe Loader moves once more. However, now we are faced with trying to figure out why once she is running she dies out under load. We have replaced all the fuel lines after find a small break in one. We have replaced the fuel pump with a new on (2-7 psi, original one was a universal 2-4.5 psi). I bleed all the the fuel filters to the injectors, with it firing right up toward the end of the injectors. I was able to run her great for 2 hours of working under load. Before chugging out once more, out of no where with half a tank. I bleed the lines again tonight and was able to get her started with some starter fluid, but once I put her under load she chugged out again. Any and all help is great appreciated.
Very respectfully,
Brian
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FarmerJoeVT
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Posted: 11 Aug 2015 at 11:19pm |
Thanks Eric, I found your post from earlier in the thread. :)
| Posted: Jul 08 2015 at 10:35pm | By the way Brian, the link you have for an oil pump looks to be an oil pump for the engine (notice it says engine parts at the top). The reason it fits your machine and several others is the Perkins engine. You (likely) need a pump for the forward reverser transmission. Here is the place and price from last year when I bought one...most likely the same one in your machine. You could always contact them for particulars. As I said previously however, don't order any parts 'til you know what you need.
3615 E. Grand River Rd.
Williamston MI 48895
US
Toll Free 888-672-7876
Local 517-347-7033 & Fax 517-339-1608
| Item | Quantity | Bin Location | Description | Rate | Amount | Tax Rate |
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| A508005 | 1 | | PUMP ASSY. | 186.33 | 186.33 | | | Subtotal | 186.33 | | | Shipping Cost (Standard) | 23.69 | | | Total | $210.02 |
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Edited by FarmerJoeVT - 11 Aug 2015 at 11:21pm
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Eric B
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Posted: 11 Aug 2015 at 10:31pm |
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If there is a torque converter shop in your area you can take the converter there to be tested and flushed...there may not be anything wrong with it (may save you some money). Remember I gave you the part number for the pump way back in this thread, that place is good to deal with.
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Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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FarmerJoeVT
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Posted: 11 Aug 2015 at 2:11pm |
Update: Prices for replacement parts
· Drive Flex Plate – AC Part #1006536 - $73.51
· Torque Convertor – AC Part # 1006192 - $372.39
Still looking for a price for the Transmission Oil Pump – AC Part # 10068854.=
Found a mechanic shop willing to work on it for $75/hr, but wont find the parts. So anything I can do to find everything in advance will help speed up the process. :)
Edited by FarmerJoeVT - 11 Aug 2015 at 2:44pm
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Eric B
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Posted: 10 Aug 2015 at 11:03pm |
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Congratulations...you got it!! I think I have said most everything there is to say in terms of help to this point. As for the internal repairs I can only recommend that you find a reputable shop (or mechanic) that know their way around transmissions like this. When you go to put the machine back together you don't want to have any doubts that all components are in working order. Looks like your flex plate was OK until it got warped trying to take the trannies out. Pump drive looks OK. You don't want to settle for guess work when you are going to all this trouble. If anyone on this site with all the know-how leads you through the process that's fine, otherwise you need to consult a place in person to get all the help you need. I know I wouldn't disassemble the forward reverser myself. Even a forklift repair shop may know all you need help with. It's so so important that you deal with people you can trust and are reasonable at the same time.
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Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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FarmerJoeVT
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Posted: 10 Aug 2015 at 8:37pm |
Update: we got it out. :) (Pain in the a$$, but its out)
See pictures: (same as earlier only with photos added to album)
Anyone have any suggestions to what order to break this down to isolate the issue? Or is it best to just order a new pump, flexplate (for sure), and torque convertor?
Thanks
Very respectfully, Brian
Edited by FarmerJoeVT - 10 Aug 2015 at 8:38pm
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