HD-6G Questions

Acisbest:

Dale,

After being into clutches several times on my HD5 I learned the quick way around I guess. Those pins on brakebands gave me fits the first time but made up new pins and now use slide hammer to remove them if stuck, think lasttime i went in it was about 5 hours to R&R the plate on clutch pack that had broken. Brake bands on last time I had to reline and it took more time to drill band stock and counter-bore lining for rivit heads than it did to take out and put in the bands.

To prevent uneven wear on track those welded on pieces need to be even and uniform on track. On dozer not as much of a problem but on loader the pads are under more wear from turning force put on track. Also be sure if you weld on just one per pad it is on front of pad as further from the pine the more the pin works in the bushing.

I installed in-line recirculating heaters on all my equipment, including my HD6Gs. Makes starting a cinch even in real cold weather. Had to drill the head and tap it but seemed to work ok. Don't generally use them in winter but I start them up a couple of times when a thaw comes. I have one positioned that if we get a major dump I could get it out to use. Are these recirc heaters what everyone else uses. I only use ether as a very last resort.

There are different manufacturers. The last one I installed was a "Phillips & Temro Industries Ltd" make-model 41 Circulation Type ( apparently a subsidiary of The Budd Company). Cost me about $110.00. Looks like a silver canister (has a 1500 watt heater I think in the bottom). There's an outlet on top and one at side near bottom. On the HD6Gs, both my old buda ones and a late 60's one I have there is a plug right in the middle of the head at the rear (not the easiest access point). Plumb a fitting in there with a 90 elbow and with 5/8 heater hose go to top of heater. Then I plumbed the 5/8 heater hose from base of heater to the block drain on the right rear side of engine (mine had a tap there). I plumb it in so I can still drain the block there too. Ready to go.

   One thing I have noticed-some of my heaters will trip my GFCIs when I plug them in and others won't. I have to remember which machine is sensitive to know where to park them in my shed. I've over time systematically done every diesel engine I own and it has virtually eliminated my need for ether (except for a pretty tired AC 210 that needs an engine job). It's amazing that if I plug anything in from 1 to 3 hours (depending on temperature) they start right up even in the coldest weather.

If that trany is same as HD5, there is a cross pin held into shift tower by two bolts, The end of these bolts are turned down to fit into cross pin. This pin is then drilled and another smaller pin indexes into shift ball rod. End of this rod has ball that goes into shift rails. ball end wears and will slip out of rails, small pin wears in shift rod holes, cross pin bolt ends wear as does the pin itself.

All the undercarrage for 5 or 6 are the same , trany on late HD5 was 2 speed reverse also after 1952 i believe. Front ideler is the same also on both machines.  Full rear housing and parts like bearings, shafts, clutches, brakes, sprockets, seals are also interchangable or same.   Might as well try Thill Track and Tractor in Eau Claire WI , they probably have what you need or can find it in your area on hot-line

Hey Coke and Gemdozer:  Have you guys experimented with building up the bottom rolls on a HD6.

The HD5 and 6 rollers and top carrier are also Timken bearings and not bushings like found on most machines, also front ideler is timken bearings

Guys: Also wanted to post, I got an email from a guy in Sweden that converted an HD6 G into a hydro setup.