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COD
Bronze Level Joined: 01 Jan 2022 Location: Mississippi Points: 52 |
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When you say heavy does that mean oversized where the block has been bored or just a thicker liner from factory?
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DMiller
Orange Level Access Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Hermann, Mo Points: 29653 |
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Used to be listed in the DD service manuals, that and the micrometer dimension of the sleeves. The mark is also at the top so will be a heavy or thicker 1, 2 or 3 sleeve.
I no longer have my manuals. |
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COD
Bronze Level Joined: 01 Jan 2022 Location: Mississippi Points: 52 |
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Lol. I realized it after I posted the pic. Hope there is no one with the FBI on the forum!š
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jaybmiller
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Greensville,Ont Points: 21549 |
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how ? Have AFIS check that fingerprint !!!! Now a clever parts numbering guy would make 5149211 a '1', 51492112 a '2' .... More 'numbers' fun.... my BUDA 4BD153 can have either a 3 or 4 ring set per piston...HOW can anyone tell BEFORE tearing it all apart...sigh..... same boat, different paddle. |
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
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200Tom1
Orange Level Joined: 03 Jun 2019 Location: Iowa Points: 1142 |
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Good luck with her. I wish I had kept my last HD 6. Sure miss that clank, clank.
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COD
Bronze Level Joined: 01 Jan 2022 Location: Mississippi Points: 52 |
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So I got the engine tore down. How do you tell if the liner is a 1, 2, or a 3? I donāt see anything marked on it that would denote which one it is.
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COD
Bronze Level Joined: 01 Jan 2022 Location: Mississippi Points: 52 |
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So Iāve got the engine and engine clutch out. I have removed the engine clutch, clutch housing, flywheel, and the bell housing. Iāve got to get longer bolts to bolt it to my engine stand so I can start the tear down. One question though. When I was removing the assembly from the dozer I accidentally pulled the locking plunger out too far. How do you line this thing back up? What does it attach to inside the gear shift housing? The service manual and parts manual are unclear.
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SophyCi
Bronze Level Joined: 19 Jan 2022 Location: Tampa Points: 4 |
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I think you did well! It appears that with a little TLC, you will have a great toy to play with.
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COD
Bronze Level Joined: 01 Jan 2022 Location: Mississippi Points: 52 |
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Thanks. I will check it out once I see if she will runs and see if things operate on her or not.
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DMiller
Orange Level Access Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Hermann, Mo Points: 29653 |
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1 should be standard, IIRC 2s were .005 Oversize and 3s .015. Detroit used to rubber stamp ink them in different positions on the liners, Close to Top rim was a Heavy where close to bottom was a Light sized. Midway on sleeve was exact to size.
If a sleeve Falls in do NOT try to use it as will sheer at the air box holes. Needs to be a semi snug Slip fit.
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COD
Bronze Level Joined: 01 Jan 2022 Location: Mississippi Points: 52 |
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OK. Thanks
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CAL(KS)
Orange Level Joined: 18 Sep 2009 Location: Chapman, KS Points: 3742 |
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yes, on the outside below the ports if i recall
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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20
Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15 |
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COD
Bronze Level Joined: 01 Jan 2022 Location: Mississippi Points: 52 |
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Thanks Cal! I figured it was something along those lines. So the sleeve will have a number stamped in it?
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CAL(KS)
Orange Level Joined: 18 Sep 2009 Location: Chapman, KS Points: 3742 |
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Edited by CAL(KS) - 19 Jan 2022 at 2:42pm |
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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20
Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15 |
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COD
Bronze Level Joined: 01 Jan 2022 Location: Mississippi Points: 52 |
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On a cylinder kit, Iāve noticed there seems to be a 1, 2, and a three. What is the difference and how do you know which one you need?
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pinball
Orange Level Access Joined: 28 May 2014 Location: missouriu Points: 5976 |
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Sounds as you're doing a good job. let's hope it runs okay.
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COD
Bronze Level Joined: 01 Jan 2022 Location: Mississippi Points: 52 |
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Well found the problem today. Pulled the starter off, which needed to be lubed up and connected to a battery and cycled several times to get it to work properly. Couldnāt move the engine at the flywheel with a pry bar afterwards. Removed the blower to be sure it wasnāt locked up. It wasnāt but it did need a good washing out. Then I pulled the cylinder head. One of the liners was rusted pretty bad. I used a brass wire cup in a drill to remove most of it and then vacuumed it out with my shop vac. I then oiled the cylinder and hone up and tried to smooth it out as best I could. Cleaned it out real good and soaked it with PB blaster. After that the crank broke free pretty easily. That cylinder was going down. I got the piston out of the way and honed it again to remove the rust I couldnāt get to at the beginning. Bumped the crank back and forth when it would get a little snug and now it moves free. Neither cylinder had a ring ridge that I could feel with my fingernail. At the very least it will need a piston and a cylinder and some gaskets. The cylinder head wasnāt too bad. I used the brass brush to clean it up. My goal is to get it running long enough to see what else is wrong with the machine before I bury money in the motor and there be another issue. I am going to try to mount the blower and the starter again tomorrow.
Edited by COD - 18 Jan 2022 at 6:20pm |
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Codger
Orange Level Joined: 23 Dec 2020 Location: Illinois Points: 1814 |
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You are on the right track I'm thinking. Someone needs to look at those intake ports while a compadre works the crankshaft to ascertain which piston(s) are stuck, and which are attempting to move so you can drill down to which needs additional attention.
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COD
Bronze Level Joined: 01 Jan 2022 Location: Mississippi Points: 52 |
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Another thing I noted is the exhaust valves and stems didnāt have any rust on them looking through the exhaust ports. I did not see any rust on the pistons looking through the sleeve ports. I can see one pistonās rings and they looked good with no rust.
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COD
Bronze Level Joined: 01 Jan 2022 Location: Mississippi Points: 52 |
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I removed the old rotten exhaust manifold and the valve cover. I depressed the exhaust valves and squirted a 50/50 mix of transmission fluid and acetone into the cylinders. I put about 1/2 a pint into each cylinder. I also removed the side cover and sprayed PB blaster on the pistons via the sleeve ports. I have not put much force on it so far Iāve just been working it back and forth. It just barely moves but when it does I hear that clang in what sounds to be the gears behind front cover. It moves just enough for gear lash or maybe itās just slop in the main/rod bearings. I wasnāt able to watch through the side cover and rock the crank because I was by myself. There are no belts on it either so no parasitic drag from that.
Gem I did remove the intake on the top of the blower and cleaned the screen. When I look down in there I can only see the casting of the body. I wasnāt able to see the lobes. I will remove the starter to eliminate that |
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Codger
Orange Level Joined: 23 Dec 2020 Location: Illinois Points: 1814 |
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I would probably pull the injectors out and fill the holes with a mix of ATF and diesel fuel. A couple of days later repeat. Then attempt to bar the engine over. Sounds like you may be hitting a rust ridge that has formed in a cylinder wall stopping piston travel. Most times this can be overcome but you don't really want to do it by brute force or you'll have an oil burner, or low compression for sure. Sometimes however, it simply cannot be helped as there is no other way. Give the oil solution a few days to work an loosen/soften the rust, (if culprit) before forcing the engine to rotate. Once it's rotating, I would ensure you are not too overfull on the crankcase dipstick before starting the engine.
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gemdozer
Orange Level Joined: 17 Sep 2009 Points: 942 |
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You can removed the air filter pipe and the adaptor with 4 bolts on top blower and you should see the rotor inside and could be the startor freeze and you could removed the exhaust manifold you can see the piston and sleeve he could have some rust.
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COD
Bronze Level Joined: 01 Jan 2022 Location: Mississippi Points: 52 |
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Is there a good way to see if the blower is locked up other than pulling it off? When I try to roll the crank with a pry bar there is a slight movement followed by a āclankā in what sounds like the front end (gears behind the front cover).
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COD
Bronze Level Joined: 01 Jan 2022 Location: Mississippi Points: 52 |
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Thanks for the heads up Tom. I will be sure to avoid hitting the radiator with the high pressure.
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HD6GTOM
Orange Level Joined: 30 Nov 2009 Location: MADISON CO IA Points: 6627 |
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Bee carefull power washing the radiator. I've seen a couple damaged with a high powered washer.
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COD
Bronze Level Joined: 01 Jan 2022 Location: Mississippi Points: 52 |
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Got the old girl home today. Will be removing the blade and pressure washing over the next weekā¦weather permitting.
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DougG
Orange Level Joined: 20 Sep 2009 Location: Mo Points: 7946 |
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So very true ! Good luck with it , may not be bad at all
Edited by DougG - 09 Jan 2022 at 1:55pm |
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COD
Bronze Level Joined: 01 Jan 2022 Location: Mississippi Points: 52 |
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Well my son and I got the blade up and chained off today. We also tied my truck to it and with a little persuasion we managed to get it unstuck from the ground where it rolls free. Will be going over next week to load it on the trailer and bring it home. Then let the fun (or lack thereof) begin! I actually enjoy giving old machines a chance to be useful again. Good thing about this is you can take a standard socket set, standard wrenches, and a hammer (gotta have a hammer) and work on just about everything on it.
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pinball
Orange Level Access Joined: 28 May 2014 Location: missouriu Points: 5976 |
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Ya know you never know what you have until you try to start it. it wouldn't surprise me if most everything is okay. that motor seems to be a good motor. change the oil and you never know. price seems good to me. but the real deal is when you get it operating and play/use it. that in itself is worth whatever you have in it. good luck and put another photo with you in the driver's seat when finished. It's always good to see these old machines brought back to life. they were a good old workhorse in its time.
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COD
Bronze Level Joined: 01 Jan 2022 Location: Mississippi Points: 52 |
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Thanks for the advice guys! Just FYI I did open the valve cover and make sure the rack moved freely. One injector was stuck but I worked if free by removing the fuel lines, squirting in some brake cleaner to flush it out, followed by some PB Blaster. Let it set for a bit and tapped the plunger down and pulled it back up a couple times. Flushed it out again and the rack moves nice and free now. Went ahead and flushed out the other injector in the same manner. I havenāt tried to roll it over yet, but Iām bringing it home next weekā¦ā¦I hope.š¤
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