A/C B connecting rods "Rework"

You could do a hardness test in the area where the lobe don't touch.

A comparative test vs. another lifter that only needed touch up.

Maybe find another lifter in better shape.

That is a good point Steve. I would like to think that they are hardened throughout.

If it is hard faced, you are right, it wouldn't be like the others. I watched for the spark to change color, it stayed the same. I know that doesn't mean much, but what is there should still hard.

How deep the hardness goes in these parts? That's beyond me.

I appreciate the input.

Steve

If they were hard faced to begin with,that is long gone on that one so even a soft face in good shape should be better on the cam.

8 more horsepower Steve? I don't think so.

I did have to remove almost 1/32 to get this one to clean. Some of the others weren't so bad.

Thanks Brian

I am lapping the lifters on a sheet of 220 grit, then to 400 grit, with penetrating oil against a flat plate.

I plan on using Permatex Ultra Slick Engine Assembly Lube.

I have been wondering about what to use for break in oil in the crank case at start up.

Any suggestions, would be appreciated.

Thanks again

Steve (inME.)

wjohn, I want to thank you for sending out that link to me. I read it over and the last thing that I need is chunks of chipped up lifters in the oil pan.

I checked a couple of lifters and they were flat on the bottom. Then I picked up a third one. It was #5. It was concave. That was the lobe number that was warn out on the cam that I pulled. I am going to fix the lifters here at the house.

Thanks again for the heads up.

Steve (inME)

Just after Christmas, I tried to place a ring into the (bottom) of one of the sleeves. As it went in, it made a short scratch in the liner. I looked at the gap, it looked at the gap by eye, close to .010, maybe less. I pulled the ring out and put it back in the package.

Before I place another ring in a sleeve, I am going to check it for burrs,

Clearly, I have a lot of work ahead of me. The engine is in the cellar. I work on it for a few hours every day. Some days I don't go near it at all.

Use your pistons to square the rings. MACK

I had to get an answer on those rods. I contacted the guy who sold me the tractor.

(He was the builder of my house and my former neighbor.) He was easy to find.

He said that he traded an old station wagon for the tractor in the late 80's. Unfortunately the original owner had passed away over 10 years ago, but he was able to get in touch with his son for me. We spoke on the phone for almost an hour. He seemed happy to hear that Wendy and I were taking good care of his fathers Allis B.

I have a new set of pistons, rings, and liners. I checked the block closely and it seems to be in great shape. I checked the top of the bare block with a straight edge. There was no deviation or uneven areas. I spent a lot of time cleaning the oil sludge out of the block and getting the dirt out of the coolant chamber.

I purchased an oil pump rebuild kit and have lapped the back plate flat. That Is ready to go.

I rebuilt the governor assembly.

At first the liners would not go all the way down into the block. I lightly honed the lower liner diameter with a small wheel cylinder hone and some light oil, and the liners slide right in now, without the “O” rings attached.

After setting the liners into place, (without “O” rings), I checked the protrusion for the liners. They sit cleanly in the block with a .002 - .004 protrusion.

The camshaft lifters were pulled, cleaned, numbered, tagged, and bagged. I have installed new cam bearings, and I purchased a remanufactured cam shaft.

After measuring the cam all the cam lobes are the same height, and the 3 bearing journals each measure 1.749.

After getting the cylinder head milled flat. I have rebuilt the cylinder head with new valves, springs, and valve guides. Lapped the valves to the new valve seats.

That’s all I can think of right now. I haven’t gotten to setting the gap on the rings yet. I was wondering if it was necessary for me to make a ring squaring tool to seat the piston ring squarely in the bore, to use a feeler gauge to check its gap.

I have a better idea how to maintain bearing crush and how shimming the split line works. I have never heard of ether of these.

I am not an engine rebuilder. I feel that I do have enough common sense to assemble this engine into spec. Having the service manual and a parts number book has been a big help as well.

Does it make sense to balance the rods? Pistons?

I lost track of what all you are doing.

Maybe you can recap the scope of the rebuild?

I know you worked on the main journal bearings

and end play.

New pistons, rings and liners?

Rings- end gap and clearance/fit to grooves in pistons.

Liners- protrusion and o-ring sealing. If the block's

sealing surface is corroded they might leak.

The camshaft, you should put the lifters back to the lobe

where they came from.

From my experience the top problems of rebuilds are

crank/rod bearing issues, wet liner leak, head gasket leak.

Another is the darn rear main seal leaking.

Interesting to me, I have a '48 C needing an engine rebuild.

It was something that I noticed, I was curious about it. Thanks.

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